DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 25-23
DROPS design: Pattern no z-093-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in 8105, light steel blue
50 g for all sizes in colour no 100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 26 dc x 28 rows dc vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET TIP:
Beg every dc round with 1 ch (this does NOT replace first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Work every round alternately from RS and WS.

STRIPE PATTERN:
* Work 6 rounds dc with light steel blue, then 6 rounds dc with off white *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 sts tog.
This is done as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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HAT:
Work top down and work alternately from RS and WS, i.e. turn piece after every finishing round.
Work 4 ch with light steel blue on hook size 3 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET TIP! Work STRIPE PATTERN as explained above. Rounds start mid back.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
Continue inc the same way, i.e. there is 1 dc more for every time 2 dc are worked in 1 st, until there are 98-98-105 (112-119) dc on round. Then work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-4-3 (2-1) dc evenly = 98-102-108 (114-120) dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc and stripe pattern until piece measures 13-14-15 (16-17) cm – finish after 6 rounds with light steel blue, fasten off. Then work ear flaps.

EAR FLAP:
Work entire ear flap in light steel blue. Count 10-10-10 (11-11) dc from mid back - beg here. Work 1 dc in each of the next 25-25-27 (28-30) dc. Turn piece with 1 ch and work 1 dc in every dc. Continue like this until 4-4-6 (6-8) rows have been worked. On next row dec 1 dc at beg and end by working the 2 first and last dc tog – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row 2 more times (= 3 dec in total) and then every row 5-5-6 (6-7) times in total = 9-9-9 (10-10) dc remain, fasten off.
Work another ear flap the same way in the other side, there should be 20-20-20 (22-22) dc between ear flaps mid back and 28-32-34 (36-38) dc between ear flaps mid front.

FINISHING EDGE + TIE:
Work with off white - beg mid back. Work 1 round with 1 dc + 1 ch around the entire hat incl ear flaps, but on the middle of each ear flap work 1 tie as follows: Work loose ch for approx. 25-25-30 (30-35) cm, turn and work 1 dc in every ch back (beg in 2nd ch from hook). Finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round mid back, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.03.2022
Edit in number of stitches at the end of the ear flap.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Mariana Garcia wrote:

Hei! Hvilken strl heklenål er det brukt her? Ser det står nr 3, men når jeg prøver med 3mm nål så ser maskene utrolig små ut i forhold til bildet :)

18.03.2024 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mariana, vi har brugt hæklenål 3, men se hvilken du skal bruge for at få 26 fm på 10 cm i bredden :)

19.03.2024 - 15:11

country flag Maria wrote:

Leider verstehe ich die Reihen der Ohrenklappen ab den Abnahmen nicht. Ich hab für die kleinste Größe zuerst 4 Reigen mit je 25 Maschen. Reihe 5 = 23 Maschen. Reihe 6=?... wie viele Reigen hat die Ohrenklappe insgesamt? Danke für eine Antwort

23.02.2022 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, Sie häkeln zuerst 4 Reihen ohne Abnahmen, dann 6 Reihen mit Abnahmen in jeder 2. Reihe und endlich 5 Reihen mit Abnahmen in allen Reihen (= 25 M - (3x 2) - (5 x 2) = ich habe also 9 Maschen übrig - dieses leite ich unser Design Team weiter) und 4+6+5= 15 Reihen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

24.02.2022 - 10:27

country flag Hanne wrote:

Hei! Jeg får ikke antall masker til å "gå opp". Jeg prøver å øke sånn som oppskriften beskriver etter 5. Omgang, men "treffer" ikke 98 masker. Har heklet 12 omganger nå, og har 96 fastmasker. Hekler jeg en omgang til, får jeg 104 fastmasker, etter mine beregninger. Noen ide om hva jeg gjør feil...? Trodde jeg hadde forstått systemet her, men tydeligvis ikke...

04.01.2022 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Husk at de 3 luftmaskene i begynnelsen ikke skal telles med. Når du er ferdig med 5. omgang har du 35 masker og det økes med 7 masker på hver omgang, da blir det på 6. omgang 42 masker, 7. omgang 49 masker, (8. omg =56 m. / 9. omg =63 m. / 10. omg =70 m. / 11. omg = 77 m. / 12. omg =84 m./ 13. omg = 91 m. og 14. omg = 98 m. Tenk at det på hver omgang så skal det økes i siste maske av de 2 maskene som ble heklet i 1 maske fra forrige omgang. mvh DROPS Design

14.01.2022 - 11:41

country flag Rebecca wrote:

Hallo, ich würde die Mütze und auch die zugehörige Hose gerne häkeln. Das Garn habe ich schon bei euch bestellt. Ich verstehe aber leider nicht, wie die Maschenprobe gemacht werden soll. Was bedeutet 26fM und 28Rd ergeben eine Höhe von 10x10? Bis jetzt habe ich Maschenproben nie rund gestrickt oder gehäkelt. Wird es wirklich eine runde Maschenprobe? Wenn ja, wie wird diese angefertigt? Viele Grüße Rebecca

09.08.2021 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rebecca, bei der Maschenprobe sollen Sie 26 fM und 28 Reihen haben, dh beim häkeln ist die Maschenprobe meistens gleich in der Runde und in Reihen - Sie können einfach Reihen häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

10.08.2021 - 13:41

country flag Audrey wrote:

Bonjour, on compte 13 cm à partir du milieu ?

05.03.2021 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Audrey, on mesure les 13 cm (en 1/3 mois) du bonnet à partir du 1er rang (de haut en bas). Bon crochet!

08.03.2021 - 07:24

country flag Helene Rolfart wrote:

Varför ska jag vända efter ett varv, Virka på både fram och baksida och inte virka runt/ spiral?

23.02.2021 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helene, det er for at få mønsteret lika når du virkar øreklapperne frem og tilbage :)

23.02.2021 - 12:53

country flag Barbara E Goldstein wrote:

Hello, When reach the mark where you continue the stripe pattern until piece measures 5-1/2 inches, is the the size of the diameter of the hat or the Len the from the magic circle to the edge? Also, my hat appears to be just a round circle, is that right? Thank you so much! Barbara

02.11.2020 - 03:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Goldstein, the 5 1/2 inches are measured from the beginning of piece (from top down), not sure what you mean with "round circle", hat is worked in the round from the top down, you first increase until you get the correct number of sts for the circumference of head, then work straight (no increase anymore) until you reach the appropriate length. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

02.11.2020 - 09:34

country flag Jacquelien wrote:

Beste, Is het misschien mogelijk dat ik het haakpatroon via email kan krijgen van Met vriendelijke groet Jacquelien Heartthrob Hat by DROPS Design Gehaakte babymuts van DROPS Alpaca. Maat 0 - 4 jaar. Trefwoorden: hoofddeksels, kapje, mutsen, strepen, DROPS design: Model nr. z-093-by Garengroep A

13.10.2020 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacquelien,

We sturen helaas geen patronen via e-mail, maar je kunt het patroon wel downloaden of printen vanaf onze site. Dit doe je door onder de materialenlijst bij het patroon op de knop 'Afdrukken' te klikken. Dan kies je 'Patroon' In het scherm dat opent kies je vervolgens helemaal rechts boven op 'Het patroon afdrukken' zodat je het patroon naar je printer kunt sturen of als pdf op kunt slaan.

25.10.2020 - 20:01

country flag Anja wrote:

Findes denne hue i strikket udgave?

02.10.2020 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anja, øverst i opskriften finder du "tags" prøv at klikke på kyser, så får du alle dem med øreklapper :)

02.10.2020 - 14:19

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hej! Det står att man ska virka 7fm runt lm-ringen? Vad innebär det? Ska man virka två fasta maskor i 3 maskor och sen en fast maska i sista maskan? Sen står det att man ska virka fram och tillbaka, dvs vända? Men det är ju en ring, virkar man inte runt då?

29.07.2020 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, du virkar inte i lm, men runt om hela ringen, stickar nålen in i mitten av ringen. Lycka till :)

05.08.2020 - 15:47