DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.75 £ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 73-17
Sizes: S - M - L -XL - XXL

Finished measurements: 98-108-116-126-134 cm

Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800 gr nr 3 oatmeal
and use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
1-1-1-1-1 spool nr 01 gold

4 DROPS buttons nr 522

DROPS 5.5 mm circular and straight needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.75 £ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 18 sts x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts):
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *
Row 2: * P 1, K 1 *
Repeat Rows 1-2.

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes along right button band. 1 buttonhole = bind off the center st of buttonband and on the next row yo over the bound off st. Make buttonholes when the piece measures: Size S: 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm.
Size M: 27, 35, 42 and 50 cm.
Size L: 28, 36, 45 and 53 cm.
Size XL: 28, 37, 46 and 56 cm.
Size XXL: 28, 38, 48 and 58 cm.

Knitting tips (for neck shaping): All decs are made on right side rows. Dec inside of 5 edge sts knit in seed st as follows:
After 5 edge sts: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 5 edge sts: K 2 tog.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Body:
Cast on 183-199-215-231-247 sts on circular needles with Bomull-Lin. Knit 2 rows garter st (1st row = right side row), then knit Pattern 1, keeping 5 sts at each side (center front edges) in seed st for button bands throughout. Make buttonholes on right band - see instructions above.
When the piece measures 28-30-32-34-36 cm change to Pattern 2. When the piece measures 50-51-53-55-56 cm knit the next row as follows (right side row): 43-47-51-55-59 for the right front, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 81-89-97-105-113 sts for the back, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 43-47-51-55-59 sts for the left front. Knit each piece separately.

Right front: = 43-47-51-55-59 sts.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Bind off for armhole every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-3-5 times and 1 st 3-3-5-5-4 times. At the same time when the piece measures 50-52-55-58-60 cm dec 1 st for the neck inside 5 button band sts - see knitting tips - every other row 6-7-7-8-8 times and then every 4 rows 6 times = 24-24-24-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 70-72-75-78-80 cm.

Left front: Knit the same as the right, but reverse shaping.

Back: = 81-89-97-105-113 sts. Bind off for armhole at each side as on front = 67-69-69-71-73 sts remain. When the piece measures 67-69-72-75-77 cm knit seed st over the center 27-29-29-31-31 sts for 4 rows, keeping remaining sts in Pattern 2. On the next row bind off the center 17-19-19-21-21 sts for the neck in pattern. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge on the next row inside 5 edge sts in seed st - see knitting tips = 24-24-24-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 70-72-75-78-80 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 43-43-51-51-51 sts with Bomull-Lin. Knit 2 rows garter st (1st row = right side row), then establish pattern on the next row as follows: P 1, Pattern 3A (= 5 sts), Pattern 3B over 32-32-40-40-40 sts, Pattern 3C (= 4 sts), P 1. Repeat Pattern 3 three times (36 rows total), then knit 5 rows seed st. The piece measures approx. 17 cm. Change to Pattern 2, increasing 4 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 47-47-55-55-55 sts.
At the same time when the piece measures 20 cm inc 1 st at each side every 2,5-2-2,5-2-1,5 cm a total of 10-12-10-11-13 times = 67-71-75-77-81 sts - knit the increased sts in Pattern 2 as you go along.
When the piece measures 46-44-43-41-40 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-2-2-2-2 times, 1 st 3-8-10-12-13 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-55-56-56-56 cm, then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 56-56-57-57-57 cm, bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder- and sleeve seams using edge sts as seam allowance. Sew in sleeves and buttons.

Diagram

symbols = stockinette st/knit (seen from right side) Bomull-Lin only
symbols = reverse stockinette st/purl (seen from right side) Bomull-Lin only
symbols = stockinette st/knit (seen from right side) with Bomull-Lin and Glitter
symbols = reverse stockinette st/purl (seen from right side) with Bomull-Lin and Glitter
symbols = K 2 tog, yo
symbols = yo, sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
symbols = yo, sl 1 as if to knit, K 2 tog, psso, yo.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 73-17

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Morissens Romain wrote:

Voor de panden zet ik215stekien op, 5 st langs beide kanten voorbiesst 205 st verdelen onder de 8 st telepatroon maakt 25,625 ×8,=205st\\r\\nZie ik iets over het hoofd dat mij dat niet lukt

08.02.2023 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Romain,

Aan het eind van de naald, vlak voor de laatste 5 voorbiessteken, brei je alleen de eerste 5 steken van het telpatroon. Op deze manier zien de voorpanden er ook hetzelfde uit.

12.02.2023 - 18:21

country flag Romain wrote:

Geen

01.02.2023 - 12:04

country flag Melli wrote:

Die Anleitung stimmt insgesamt nicht! Maschenangaben stimmen nicht, Muster stimmt nicht mit dem Foto überein und die Mengenangabe der Wolle stimmt auch nicht. Nun muss ich nochmal nachbestellen und nochmal Versandkosten bezahlen! Ärgerlich !!

12.06.2022 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melli, vielleicht können Sie uns mehr sagen? Welche Größe Sie stricken, mit welchem Muster haben Sie Unterschiedlichkeit usw - beachten Sie auch, daß die Maschenprobe stimmen muss (= 18 Maschen x 24 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm). Danke im voraus für Ihre Antwort, so können wir prüfen, was nicht stimmt und so korrigieren.

13.06.2022 - 12:07

country flag Irina Krajewski wrote:

Goedendag! De vraag is al eerder gesteld maar helaas in het Zweeds volgens mij: totaal opnemen 183 st. Als ik de st van de separate panden optel, houdt ik 16 st over. Wat zie ik over het hoofd?

15.07.2019 - 06:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irina,

Je kant op een gegeven moment 8 steken af voor beide armsgaten, dus houd je 183-8-8 steken over.

15.07.2019 - 13:53

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, quel est l'emplacement des boutonnières pour la taille XL? Merci de votre réponse.

28.12.2015 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, les boutonnières se trouvent à 28, 37, 46 et 56 cm en taille XL (info manquante ajoutée). Merci. Bon tricot!

02.01.2016 - 14:57

country flag Felicia Karksson wrote:

Hej! Jag får inte heller mönstret att går ihop. Jag stickar strl s (183 maskor), 5 kantm, mönstret 21 ggr, 5 kanmt= 178 msk. Vad händer med de restrerande fem maskorna? Har jag missförstått något?

02.04.2015 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du ska sticka 5 kantmaskor, M.1 21 gånger + 5 maskor till av M.1 (du stickar det alltså inte den 22:a gången av M.1 helt ut), 5 kantmaskor = 183 m. Lycka till!

15.05.2015 - 09:41

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Hej, Jo men det stemmer, hvis du strikker M.1 25 gange og så 5 m til ifølge diagrammet, så får du mønsteret ens på hver side af forkanten. God fornøjelse :-)

17.01.2008 - 08:39

country flag Dorthe LAursen wrote:

Haløj... Jeg har problemer med at få maskeantallet til at gå op.. Eks: str. L slå 215 m op, M.1 viser 8 masker????????? 215 m - 10 m til kant=205 m / 8 = ???????? Er der noget jeg har misforstået..

16.01.2008 - 20:39

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look at the top of the pattern description, you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

27.08.2007 - 17:21

country flag Doria wrote:

I do not understand the diagram for design 71-17. I do not understand where or how the pattern is to be worked. I can not read the language for the diagram. Please help.

27.08.2007 - 00:30