DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.80 $ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 2.80 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= P 2 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Florentina Jacket |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and raglan in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 152-19 |
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GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP: Inc from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. RAGLAN BODY: Dec as follows from RS: Before marker: Beg 4 sts before marker, P 2, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec). After marker: Beg on 1st st after marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, P 2 (= 1 st dec). BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band (= 5 band sts). 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 17, 24, 31, 38 and 45 cm / 6¾"-9½"-12¼"-15"-17¾" SIZE M: 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 7½"-10¼"-13"-15¾"-18½"- SIZE L: 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm / 8¼"-11"-13¾"-16½"-19¼" SIZE XL: 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm / 9"-11¾"-14½"-17¼"-20" SIZE XXL: 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm / 8"-10½"-13⅜"-16⅛"-19"-21⅝". SIZE XXXL: 22, 29, 36, 43, 50 and 57 cm / 8¾"-11⅜"-14¼"-17"-19¾"-22½". ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 194-194-226-250-274-298 sts (includes 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat or "Belle". Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 39-39-47-53-59-65 sts, A.1 over the next 14 sts, stockinette st over the next 78-78-94-106-118-130 sts (= back piece), A.1 over the next 14 sts, stockinette st over the next 39-39-47-53-59-65 sts, 5 band sts in garter st. Work another row the same way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue back and forth the same way, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc 1 st on each side of the 2 repetitions of A.1 in the sides (= 4 sts inc on row) – READ INCREASE TIP! Beg 1 st before A.1 and inc as follows: 1 YO, K 1, A.1 over 14 sts, K 1, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc in each side). Repeat the same inc every 2½-2½-2-2-4-3½ cm/7/8"-⅞"-¾"-¾"-1½"-1¼" 6-6-6-6-3-3 more times, 7-7-7-7-4-4 times in total = 222-222-254-278-290-314 sts on row. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-19-21-23-20-22 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8¼"-9"-8"-8¾", beg to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above! Continue in stockinette st, pattern according to diagram A.1 and 5 band sts in garter st until piece measures 29-31-29-28-32-31 cm / 11⅜"-12¼"-11⅜"-11"-12½"-12¼". On next row from WS, bind off for armholes in each side as follows: Work until the 2 repetitions in left side and bind off the 14 sts over A.1, work all sts over back piece, and bind off 14 sts over A.1 in right side, work the rest of row and put piece aside (= 28 sts bound off in total) = 51-51-59-65-68-74 sts remain on front pieces and 92-92-108-120-126-138 sts on back piece (= 194-194-226-250-262-286 sts remain on needle). SLEEVE: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 133-133-147-161-154-168 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat or "Belle". Work 3 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern A.1 (= 7 sts) over all sts on round = 19-19-21-23-22-24 repetitions on round. Continue like this with pattern until piece measures 5 cm / 2" from cast-on edge. NOTE! Stop after a round with stockinette st after a round like 3rd row in A.1 (i.e. after 4th row, 8th row, 12th row etc.), AT THE SAME TIME on this round bind off one whole repetition of A.1 on each side of marker (= 14 sts bind off in total mid under sleeve) = 119-119-133-147-140-154 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and make another sleeve. YOKE: Read all of the following section before continuing! Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 432-432-492-544-542-594 sts, insert 1 marker in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 markers). Continue as follows on 1st row from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, 46-46-54-60-63-69 sts in stockinette st (= right front piece), insert a marker here, A.2 (= 21 sts), A.1 11-11-13-15-14-16 times in total, A.3 (= 21 sts), insert a marker here, stockinette st over the next 92-92-108-120-126-138 sts (= back piece), insert a marker here, A.2 (= 21 sts), A.1 11-11-13-15-14-16 times in total, A.3 (= 21 sts), insert a marker here, 46-46-54-60-63-69 sts stockinette st (= left front piece), 5 band sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME beg dec for RAGLAN BODY on body – see explanation above = 4 sts dec. Repeat the same dec every row from RS 30-30-37-44-44-51 more times, 31-31-38-45-45-52 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME continue working pattern with dec for raglan on sleeves. NOTE! When A.2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with the same dec in pattern on sleeves and the same dec for raglan on body as before. When all dec are done for raglan body, 164-164-164-156-154-146 sts remain on needle. Then continue as follows on next row from RS: Work the first 18-18-18-18-20-20 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder for neck, continue over sleeves and back piece as before, and slip the remaining 18-18-18-18-20-20 sts on a stitch holder. On the next 6 rows continue with pattern over sleeves, stockinette st on back piece and dec as before (i.e. dec for raglan as dec for raglan body), AT THE SAME TIME work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Reduce no of sts worked as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on row, turn, work until 3 sts remain, turn, work until 6 sts remain, turn, work until 6 sts remain, turn, work until 9 sts remain, turn, work until 9 sts remain. Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 3 ridges over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row on edge in garter st adjust sts to 153-153-153-144-144-136 evenly on needle (but not over the 5 band sts in garter st in each side). Loosely bind off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew the buttons on to left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (30)
Lena wrote:
Varför är inte knapphålen jämnt fördelade i storlek xxl? Det andra knapphålet kommer efter bara 4cm enligt mönstret. Det borde väl också komma efter 7 cm som alla andra knapphål i alla andra storlekar?
02.08.2018 - 16:43DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena, her bør der stå 27 cm, det skal vi få rettet. Tak for info :)
15.08.2018 - 08:54Franziska wrote:
XL: Wie sollen die 2M vorm/nach dem Maschenmarkierer (Vorderteil) gestrickt werden? Werden die verkürzten Reihen nur 1x gearbeitet oder in allen 3 Hinreihen? Und wie sollen die Abnahmen des Rückenteils mit den verkürzten Reihen kombiniert werden? Dankeschön
29.11.2017 - 17:10DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Franziska, es werden nur 6 verkürzten Reihen (Erhöhung) gestrickt, die Raglanabnahmen stricken Sie wie zuvor nur über die gestrickte Maschen (= nach diesen 6 Reihen werden beidseitig 9 M auf beiden Seiten still gelegt + die 18 M beidesitig für den Halsausschnitt= 27 M auf beiden Seiten). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.11.2017 - 08:31Franziska wrote:
XL: wie kommt man nach den Abnahmen (PASSE) von 156M auf 144M mit 8 Reihen und Abnahme von 45M? MfG Franziska
29.11.2017 - 17:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Franziska, wenn Sie 156 M haben, dann legen Sie die mittleren 18 M für Hals still und stricken jetzt verkürzten Reihen und Raglanabnahmen wie zuvor. Nach diesen verkürzten Reihen stricken Sie alle Maschen wieder, auch die stillgelegten 18 M für den Hals, dann bei der 1. Reihe des 3 Krausrippen ab- bzw zunehmen damit Sie 144 M für den Hals haben (dieser Satz mit den Maschenanzahl sollte ausgelöscht werden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.11.2017 - 08:23Marita Johansson wrote:
Hej Efter en hel del frustration o svordomar så fann jag felet. Ok: Ni skriver att man ska sticka 56 m, sätta en markör, sedan sticka enligt A2 innan A1.....FEL FEL FEL. Det är 60 m, precis som på tröjan. Ber er vänligast ändra innan någon annan sitter o repar upp.
24.01.2016 - 17:00Lena wrote:
Man minskar ju vartannat varv på oket. Hur många maskor minskas på ärmarna. Svår att se på diagrammet.
21.09.2015 - 16:33DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena, om du tittar på diagrammet så minskar du ytterst i diagrammet (strecket som går över 2 m från hörn till hörn) på varannat varv. Fråga gärna din DROPSbutik! Lycka till!
24.09.2015 - 09:10Lena Mörk wrote:
Stickar oket på jackan. När A2 samt A3 är färdigstickade "fortsätter det med samma minskningar i mönstret på ärmarna". Hur gör jag det?
20.09.2015 - 19:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena, du fortsätter med samma minskn i mönstret på ärmarna och samma minskn till raglan på fram- och bakst som förut, dvs som du har gjort hela tiden. Lycka till!
21.09.2015 - 08:26Inge Kjærgaard wrote:
Hej med jer. Hvornår må jeg forvente et svar, så jeg kan komme videre. For så vidt jeg kan se, har det ikke noget med maskeantallet at gøre. Mvh Inge Kjærgaard
12.08.2015 - 19:22DROPS Design answered:
Hej Inge, Maskeantal stemmer med diagrammer og målene i opskriften, og der vil ikke blive lavet nogle ændringer i størrelserne. God fornøjelse!
18.08.2015 - 10:10Inge Kjærgaard wrote:
Ryg- forstykke. JeG forstå ikke logikken i at når arbejdet måler 23-25-22-20-23-21 cm skal der lukkes af til ærmet. Hvorfor stiger den ikke i antal cm i alle str. Jeg strikker str. XL og den skal kun være 20 cm. Håber mit spørgsmål er klart. MVH Inge Kjærgaarr
06.08.2015 - 13:34DROPS Design answered:
Hej Inge, Det have noget at gøre med antal m i mønsterrapporten.... Vi skal få design til at se på det.
07.08.2015 - 08:13Bettina wrote:
Rigtig fin bluse, men jeg kunne ikke strikke den i 550g Muskat i str. L. som der står. Var nød til at bestille 2 nøgler mere før jeg kunne blive færdig, lidt træls at skulle betale porto 2 gange. Måske man skulle rette det i opskriften?
07.06.2015 - 17:32DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bettina. Tak for info. Vi noterer det og modtager vi flere bemaerkninger vedr. antal nögler til denne model, saa kigger vi om der er fejl i mönstret. God weekend.
12.06.2015 - 12:29Henrike wrote:
Panne beim Nachstricken der Jacke in Gr. XXL bei der PASSE: Nach Uebernahme der Aermel auf die Rundnadel mit dem Rumpfteil sind 542 auf der Nadel. Doch nachdem Abnahmen fuer die Raglanschraegungen an Aermel und Rumpfteil jeweils 44 x wiederholt wurden (= 176 M. abgenommen) sind immer noch 366 M auf der Nadel und nicht 182 M wie in der Anleitung. Ich hab sie auch in anderen 2 Sprachen gelesen, aber die Angaben sind die gleichen. Bitte um Hilfe, Tip, Erklaerung...
29.10.2014 - 12:45DROPS Design answered:
Haben Sie die Abnahmen an den Ärmeln auch beachtet? Sie nehmen ja nicht nur 4 M am Rumpfteil ab, sondern auch immer 4 M an den Ärmeln, also 8 M, dazu in der 1. und 13. Rd von A.2 und A.3 nochmal zusätzlich je 1 M (= 4 zusätzliche M in der ganzen Rd). Sie nehmen also 44x 4 M am Rumpfteil ab, 44x 4 M an den Ärmeln + 2x 4 zusätzliche M an den Ärmeln = 360 M abgenommen. Das passt dann zu den 182 M.
29.10.2014 - 14:30