DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 153-27
DROPS design: Pattern no r-646
Yarn group B
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Size: S – M – L –XL – XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 32, turquoise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm),
A.1B in width = 6 cm / 2 3/8'',
1st - 4th row A.1 vertically = 4½ cm / 1 3/4".

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON W/HOLES, NO 522, 2 pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. In A.1 start to work on the row marked with 1st in the diagram. Repeat rows 2 to 5. In A.2 start to work on the row marked with 2nd in the diagram.

SIDE:
In the side work dc/sc as shown in diagrams A.1A and A.1D. I.e. Work sc on row 1 and 5 in diagram, work row 2, 3 and 4 with dc. Marker is in the middle of st in each side.
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VEST:
Work 155-167-183-199-227-247 LOOSE ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat. Turn piece. Skip 1st ch, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 154-166-182-198-226-246 sc. Insert 1 marker after 39-42-46-50-57-62 sc in from each side (back piece = 76-82-90-98-112-122 sc). Then work as follows (beg on 1st row in diagram):
A.1A, repeat A.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, A.1C, 4-10-18-26-16-26 sc/dc in the SIDE - see explanation above -, repeat A.1B 5-5-5-5-7-7 times, A.1C, 4-10-18-26-16-26 sc/dc in the SIDE – see explanation above, repeat A.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, A.1C and A.1D.
Continue to work like this until piece measures approx. 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4". Now inc 1 sc/dc in each side on each side of each marker one time. Inc by working 2 sc/dc in 1 sc/dc on each side of each marker (= 4 sc/dc inc in total). Continue as before with 2 sc/dc more in each side. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾'', stop after one whole repetition vertically. Cut the yarn. Now divide the piece and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 3-6-10-14-9-14 sc/dc in each side.
Beg by working inside 2-3-7-11-6-11 sc/dc. Work 1-3-3-3-3-3 sc/dc, repeat A.1B 5-5-5-5-7-7 times, A.1C and 1-3-3-3-3-3 sc/dc (2-3-7-11-6-11 sc/dc remain on row), turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain, turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain, turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain, turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain. There are now 1 sc/dc in each side. Continue back and forth with pattern as before and 1 sc/dc in each side.
When piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'' (stop after whole repetition vertically), divide the piece for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Beg in the side. Work over 1 sc/dc in the side, A.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.1C and 1 sc/dc. Continue like this until repetition has been worked vertically. Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right but reversed, (i.e. 2 repetitions mid back = neck).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 3-6-10-14-9-14 sc/dc in the side.Start mid front and work as follows:
A.1A, repeat A.1B 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, A.1C and 1-3-3-3-3-3 sc/dc (2-3-7-11-6-11 sc/dc remain in the side). Turn piece. Work pattern as before. Turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain in the side, turn piece. Work pattern as before, turn piece. Work pattern as before until 0-1-1-1-1-1-1 sc/dc remain in the side, turn piece. Work pattern as before. There are now 1 sc/dc in the side.
Continue back and forth with pattern as before.
AT THE SAME TIME when 1 repetition has been worked vertically after piece was divided, dec for neck. Work as follows from RS: A.2 A, A.2 B, A.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.1C, A.1D. When all bind off for armhole and neck are done, work as follows - from mid front:
A.1A, A.1B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.1C and A.1D. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' (adjust according to back piece to work the no of repetitions on front piece vertically as on back piece). Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew edge to edge with small stitches to avoid a chunky seam.

ARMHOLE EDGE:
Work an edge around the armhole as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg mid under sleeve. Work ch 1, then work sc around the armhole, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work ch 3, then work 1 dc in every sc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Fasten off.
Work the same way around the other armhole.

EDGE AROUND BODY:
Work an edge around the body. Beg at the bottom of right front piece, work up along front piece, around the neck, down along left front piece and along bottom edge. Work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work ch 1, then work sc around the body, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 1, then work 1 sc in every sc, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: ch 1, then work 1 sc in first sc, * ch 3, then work 1 dc in the first of the ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 2 buttons on left front piece, the top button directly below neck dec and the other approx. 6 cm / 2½'' from first button. Button between dc in edge on right front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sc
symbols = ch
symbols = picot: ch 3, 1 dc in the first of the ch 3, skip 2 sc/dc
symbols = dc
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (85)

country flag Anne Bonafede wrote:

Love the free patterns, but find it too difficult to read diagrams. Please provide patterns, such as this one, with fully written out rows of crochet instructions. Thank you. -Anne

03.10.2023 - 08:56

country flag Ellen wrote:

Good day. Can you please help me with the following pattern 15327. I'm starting over as the pattern for XL did not workout... I'm trying L now. The back piece stated: =3-6-10-14-9-14 sc/dc in each side. I'm working on 10 for Large but not sure what "in each side" means? I'm a bit confused about how to follow the pattern for the back piece. Can you please help me? Kind regards. Thank you.

29.09.2023 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen on the previous pattern for body you worked 26 sc/dc on the sides; back piece starts and ends with 14 of these sts on each side (the last 14 sc/dc on one side and the first 14 sc/dc on the other side). Happy crocheting!

02.10.2023 - 08:40

country flag Ellen wrote:

Good day, Can you please help me with the back piece pattern of the Drops 15327. I'm new to this type of pattern. And really struggle to get the back piece pattern to work out. Thank you

01.09.2023 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen, could you please specify which part of the back piece is giving you trouble? You work something similar to short rows, where you work the pattern until some stitches of the row are left and turn the piece, so you will be leaving some stitches at the end of the rows unworked. Happy crocheting!

03.09.2023 - 19:28

country flag Ellen Imrie wrote:

Hi. I'm struggling to understand the diagram it's my first time trying to work on diagram. Can you please explain the second and third rows to me? Thank you. It seems like the number of chains for the bust 106cm size is incorrect? In the end I've made it 195 chains instead of 199 chains in order for the pattern to work out from the 3rd row. Thank you

16.08.2023 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Imrie, you start with 199 chains and work the 198 stitches from first row as follows: A.1A (= 1 dc), repeat A.1B a total of 2 times (= 12 sts 2 times = 24 sts), work A.1C (= 12 sts), then work 26 dc/tr (UK-English), work A.1B a total of 5 times (= 12 x 5=60 sts), A.1C (= 12 sts), 26 dc/tr, A.1B x 2 times (24 sts), A.1C (= 12 sts), A.1D (= 1 st)= 1+24+12+26+60+12+26+24+12+1=198 sts. On 2nd row there are 3 chain-space in each A.1B/A.1C = 9 ch-spaces on each front piece and 18 ch-spaces on back piece. Hope it can help. Happy crocheting!

16.08.2023 - 14:30

country flag Andrea wrote:

Ich habe genau nach Anleitung für Größe L gehäkelt. Jetzt bin ich mit dem linken Vorderteil noch nicht fertig, und auch die Umrandung fehlt noch. Die 350g Muskat Baumwollgarn reichen nicht aus!!!! Ich muss jetzt nochmal ein Knäuel nachbestellen und wiederum über 5 € Versandkosten bezahlen. Das ärgert mich schon sehr😖. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, die Versandkosten zu sparen? VG Andrea

06.06.2023 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, es tut uns leid, daß Sie nicht genügend Garne hatten, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Breite sowie in der Höhe? Wenden Sie sich bitte direkt an Ihrem DROPS Händler, dort kann man Ihnen weiterhelfen. Danke im voraus für Ihr Veständnis.

06.06.2023 - 14:07

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hoeveel minderingen moet ik maken aan de halszijde van het linker en rechtervoorpand en hoe doe ik dat?

09.05.2023 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

De minderingen zijn verwerkt in A.2. Je kunt dus gewoon het telpatroon blijven volgen.

11.05.2023 - 20:57

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Ik kom bij lange na niet uit met de hoeveelheid voorgeschreven garen; veel te weinig.

05.05.2023 - 13:34

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Ik snap de eerste toer van het telpatroon A1 al niet. Als ik 1x A.1.a, 3x A.1.b, 1x A.1.c, 16 vasten voor de zijkant, 3 x A.1.b, A.1.c en A.1.d haak, kom ik absoluut niet uit met het aantal steken (ik houd er nog veel over in die toer). Overigens is het voor maat XXL. Kunt u mij verdere uitleg geven?

03.05.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Heb je gezien dat er niet in elke steek van de vorige toer gehaakt wordt. Dus de picot haak je over 2 vasten en daartussen steeds 1 vaste boven 1 vaste van de vorige toer.

08.05.2023 - 21:21

country flag DANIELA wrote:

SCUSATEMI CHE VI DISTURBO OGNI TANTO OVVERO SEMPRE, MA QUESTO MODELLO è ESTIVO O AUTUNNO? PERCHE VEDO SCRITTO UNCINETTO N 4.00 MM

19.04.2023 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, è un modello lavorato in cotone con l'uncinetto n° 4 mm. Si ricordi di scrivere in minuscolo la prossima volta. Buon lavoro!

20.04.2023 - 21:14

country flag Isa wrote:

Liebes Team, ich stehe irgendwie total auf der Leitung. Ich habe jetzt die Reihe feste Maschen gehäkelt und die Markierer links jnd rechts platziert. Nun ist mir nur nicht ganz klar, ob ich die Arbeit über die ganze Länge häkele, oder nur mit dem Rückenteil beginne. Nach 16 cm nehme ich dann 2 Maschen beidseitig zu und nach insgesamt 38 cm (bei Gr. XL) teile ich erst in Rückenteil und Seitenteile, oder ? Beim Rückenteil steht dann z.B. 3 fM/Stb. Was muss ich da nun häkeln? fM oder Stb ?

31.05.2022 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Isa, die Jacke beginnen Sie mit dem Rumpfteil, dh rechtes Vorderteil + Rückenteil und linkes Vorderteil stricken Sie in einem Teil bis Armlöcher, dann häkeln Sie jedes Teil separat. Sie häkeln die Diagramme: A.1A, 2 x A.1B , A.1C (= Vorderteil), 26 fm/Stb (= Seite), 5 x A.1B, A.1C (= Rückenteil), 26 fm/Stb (Seite), 2xA.1B, A.1C, A.1D (= Vorderteil). Die Markierungen sind in den Seiten, wo Sie nur fm/Stb häkeln = 28 fm/Stb nach den Zunahmen; dann sind es 14 fm/Stb zwischen den Markierer für Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.06.2022 - 08:16