DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Felicity

Knitted DROPS poncho with wave pattern and vent in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 153-29
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-031
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500 g colour no 02, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 tog.
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PONCHO:
Worked back and forth to make a vent in each side. Then continue in the round until finished measurements.
Loosely cast on 234-253-272-291 sts (incl 3 edge sts in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! Then work as follows: 3 edge sts in garter st, PATTERN according to diagram A.1 (= 19 sts on 1st row) 12-13-14-15 times in width, and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. NOTE: After 1st row in diagram A.1 has been worked, 2 sts have been dec in every repetition (a total of 24-26-28-30 sts dec on row) = 210-227-244-261 sts. Continue back and forth until A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically. Then work the same way with pattern as before but work A.3 instead of A.2. Continue with A.3 3 times vertically AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS (i.e. last repetition of A.3 vertically), dec 61 sts evenly = 149-166-183-200 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit another part the same way. When the other part is finished, work in stocking st over all sts from RS. Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in stocking st over these sts = 298-332-366-400 sts. Then work in the round. On next round insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: First marker directly above vent in one side, 38-42-45-49 sts in stocking st, insert a marker here, 73-82-93-102 sts in stocking st, insert a marker here, 38-42-45-49 sts in stocking st, insert a marker here, 38-42-45-49 sts in stocking st, insert a marker here, 73-82-93-102 sts in stocking st, insert a marker here, 38-42-45-49 sts in stocking st. Then work in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-22-22-20 cm dec as follows: Work in stocking st until 2 sts remain before first marker, then dec 1 st on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat this dec on each side of the other markers in piece = 12 sts dec on round. Repeat this dec every 4½-3½-2½-2½ cm 1-2-4-5 more times (= 2-3-5-6 times in total) = 274-296-306-328 sts. Then dec the same way but now dec every cm 8-9-9-10 times in total = 178-188-198-208 sts remain. Continue with 5 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME dec 23-24-22-23 sts evenly on first row in first ridge = 155-164-176-185 sts remain. Loosely cast off, cut the yarn and fasten.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2015
Correction: New diagram A.1.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag MIchele Bailey wrote:

Hello I cannot see the corrected diagram for A.1. Where do i find it please?

12.05.2023 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michele, the correct diagram is the one you see in the webpage; we already removed the incorrect one. A.1 is the full chart, while A.2 and A.3 are parts of A.1. Happy knitting!

13.05.2023 - 19:26

country flag Lucia wrote:

Sto realizzando il modello nella misura più piccola: prima diminuzione a 21 cm, seconda diminuzione dopo 4,5 cm = 25,5 cm. Poi ogni cm. 8 volte = 33,5 cm. Poi con cinque coste a legaccio bisognerebbe arrivare a 43 cm., ma 10 ferri a legaccio non possono corrispondere a 9,5 cm

03.04.2022 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lucia, le spiegazioni sono corrette. Buon lavoro!

05.04.2022 - 22:19

country flag Gladys wrote:

No entiendo que significa una vuelta entre dos puntos

13.11.2021 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Gladys, no encuentro este término en el patrón. El único término similar es 1 HEB o hebra entre dos puntos, que es lo mismo que hacer una lazada entre dos puntos.

14.11.2021 - 19:06

country flag Ellen wrote:

Hi, on the first row of A1 I seem to keep on ending up with 17 stitches on the needle, not 19? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

01.08.2021 - 00:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen, correct, first row in A.1 is worked over 19 sts but you then decrease 2 sts in each A.1 = 17 sts remain in each A.1 - and a total of 24-26-28-30 stitches has been decreased. Happy knitting!

02.08.2021 - 08:13

country flag Alexine Fleck wrote:

I don't understand this: "Continue with A.3 3 times vertically AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS (i.e. last repetition of A.3 vertically), dec 61 sts evenly = 149-166-183-200 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and knit another part the same way." Does it mean: A3 4 times; put 61 stitches on holder? What is the decrease? Can you explain this more step by step?

20.04.2020 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fleck, you repeat the 10 rows of A.3 a total of 3 times in height (= 30 rows), and on the last row (= 3Oth row = from WS) you will knit all stitches as shown in diagram and at the same time decrease 61 sts (= work K2 tog a total of 61 times evenly spaced - read here how to do so that 149-166-183-200 sts remain on needle. Happy knitting!

21.04.2020 - 09:24

country flag Lotta wrote:

Hej, står att diagrammet är uppdaterat men ser inte A1 på bilden, endast A2 o A3?

16.11.2019 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotta, hela A.1 består av A.2 och A.3. Lycka till :)

21.11.2019 - 09:05

country flag Gail Jaffrey wrote:

I really like your poncho pattern 153-29; however the photo of the completed poncho is very unclear. Do you have a clear photo that would help me to see the bottom section so I know whether or not I am doing the lace part of he pattern correctly? Thank you.

06.08.2019 - 03:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jaffrey, we do not have further pictures from the pattern but you will find here how to read diagrams: work pattern decreasing 2 sts in each repeat on first row. Then work A.2-section a total of 1 time in height, and repeat A.3-section a total of 3 times in height decreasing sts evenly on last row last repeat. Happy knitting!

07.08.2019 - 11:48

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Leider kann ich in der Anleitung das Diagramm A.1 nicht finden.

29.06.2019 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gudrun, A.1 ist das ganze Diagram, Sie häkeln zuerst A.2 (= 2 Abnahme bei der 1. Runde) einmal in der Höhe, dann wiederholen Sie A.3 insgesamt 3 Mal in der Höhe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.07.2019 - 06:50

country flag Labat wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrai réaliser ce modèle mais je ne parviens pas à comprendre ni obtenir le diagramme A1, et je ne parviens pas non plus à voir les modifications apportées... Comment faire ? Merci d'avance ! Stèf.

13.05.2018 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Labat, si vous avez imprimé le modèle avant la date des corrections, il vaudra mieux le réimprimer, sinon, il est juste ainsi. Commencez à lire le diagramme en commençant en bas à droite et de droite à gauche tous les tours. Ainsi, au 1er rang de A.1 (= encadré A.2 à droite), vous diminuez 2 m dans chaque motif puis continuez jusqu'à la fin du diagramme sur les 17 m restantes. Quand le diagramme a été tricoté 1 fois en hauteur, répétez la partie A.3 encore 2 fois (= il aura été tricoté 3 fois au total en hauteur). Bon tricot!

14.05.2018 - 11:01

Sandra wrote:

AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS (i.e. last repetition of A.3 vertically), dec 61 sts evenly = 149-166-183-200 sts. No especifica el patron que tipo de disminuciones o con que inclinacion. Les agradeceria me indicaran si es indistinto. Siempre muy Buenos Los patrones, muchas gracias.

07.03.2018 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sandra. Las disminuciones las hacemos trabajando 2 puntos juntos de derecho, si no se explica de otro modo en el patrón en el apartado "Información para realizar el trabajo".

13.03.2018 - 15:28