DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Dancing Wind

Knitted DROPS shawl with domino squares and short rows in ”Delight” and ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.

DROPS 155-5
DROPS design: Pattern no de-114
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Large shawl (shawl on picture): Width at top: approx. 164 cm Length on the middle: approx. 73 cm
Small shawl: Width at top: approx. 142 cm Length in the middle: 68 cm
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200-250 g colour no 06, pink/purple
and use:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250-300 g colour no 1760, light grey purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

SHORT ROWS:
Over the last 84-108 sts (seen from WS) work short rows as follows:
Row 1 = from WS: K 6-4, turn.
Row 2 = from RS: K back.
Row 3 = from WS: K 12, turn.
Row 4 = from RS: K back.
Continue the same way by inc the short rows 6-8 sts every time you work from WS. On 27th row work all sts, then dec 6-8 sts every time you work as follows:
Row 27 = from WS: K all 84-108 sts, turn.
Row 28 = from RS: K back.
Row 29 = from WS: K until 6-8 sts remain, turn.
Row 30 = from RS: K back.
Row 31 = from WS: K until 12-16 sts remain, turn.
Row 32 = from RS: K back.
Continue the same way by dec the short rows 6-8 sts every time you work from WS. Until 4 sts remain and domino square has been worked.

KNITTING TIP:
On every domino square work first and last ridge (i.e. on row where 55 sts are picked up and 54 sts are cast on) with BabyAlpaca Silk, to form a pattern in the short rows in BabyAlpaca Silk.
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SHAWL:
The shawl is worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Work ridges alternately in Delight and BabyAlpaca Silk – READ KNITTING TIP!
LOOSELY cast on 193-217 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS over all sts.
* Then work as follows with Delight (1st row = WS): Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above – over the first 109-109 sts, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above – over the next 84-108 sts. Continue like this working alternately 1 ridge in Delight, 1 ridge in BabyAlpaca Silk until domino square has been worked. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When domino square has been worked, K 1 row with BabyAlpaca Silk from WS over all sts. Work next row as follows from RS (NOTE - remember KNITTING TIP): K the first 84-108 sts, pick up 55 sts along the side on domino square, cast on 54 new sts on needle = 193-217 sts *. Repeat from *-* until 9 domino squares have been worked in total. When last domino square is done, pick up approx. 280-330 sts (incl sts on needle) with Delight over edge at the top of shawl (i.e. along the side of last domino square worked and over cast-on edge on first domino square). Work ridges alternately in Delight and BabyAlpaca Silk back and forth until edge measures approx. 2 cm. Loosely cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.08.2015
Correction: SHAWL:
The shawl is worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Work ridges alternately in Delight and BabyAlpaca Silk – READ KNITTING TIP!
LOOSELY cast on 193-217 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
K 1 row from RS over all sts. * Then work as follows with Delight (1st row = WS)...
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Julia wrote:

Sorry, ich bin am verzweifel mit den verkürzten R. Ich versuch mich klarer auszudrücken, denn ich bin noch garnicht an der stelle wo man M anschlägt und auffasst. ich habe jetzt 54R gestrickt.( Auf der nadel sind die verkürzten R. Mit Baby Alpaka Silk ) ich weiß dass nun wieder mit R1 weitergestrickt werden soll. Ich weiß aber nicht ob ich erst über alle M stricken soll damit in den verkürzten R keine Löcher enstehen. Wenn ja, mit Delight oder mit Baby Alpaka Silk?

29.12.2015 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Julia, Sie stricken über alle Maschen bevor das nächste Dominodreick gestrickt wird: "Nachdem das Dominoeck fertig ist, eine Rück-R re mit BabyAlpaca Silk über alle M str."

08.03.2016 - 14:09

country flag Julia Fladischer wrote:

Hallo, ich habe den Rapport nun ein mal gestrickt, 4 M in Delight von den verkürzten R sind auf der Nadel. Meine Frage, wie beginne ich den 2. Rapport? Wenn ich jetzt verkürzte R str dann enstehen mir Löcher da ich ja noch nicht einmal über alle M gestrickt habe um die verkürzten R des 1. Rapports zu schließen. Stricke ich jetzt mit Delight über die ersten 12M (4+8M) und dann weiter ? Ich verstes nicht. BITTE HILFE Was genau muss ich tun? Und mit welcher wolle?

25.12.2015 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

DAs Dominorechteck und der Verkürzte-Reihen-Rapport sind gleichzeitig fertig, dann stricken Sie 1 Rück-R über alle M, bevor Sie mit einem neuen Rapport beginnen (bei dem Sie zunächste M auffassen und neue M anschlagen).

29.12.2015 - 18:06

Maria wrote:

This is solution to my question: to obtain the same numbers of rows in each section (which is finishing domino squer and short rows at the same time) you have to make one row back and forth through all the stitches in between each short rows. This is not indicated in the pattern. This means you have 108 rows (54 ridges) for the domino and 54 short rows and 54 rows on all the stitches.

20.09.2015 - 16:52

Maria wrote:

I have problem with finshing domino part and the short rows part at the same time. I have done all of the short rows and still have many stithes on needle from the domino part. What do I do wrong?

17.09.2015 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Jest dokładnie tak jak pisze Pani w ostatnim poście. Przyjrzymy się wzorowi jeszcze raz i jeśli zajdzie potrzeba wprowadzona zostanie korekta. POWODZENIA!

20.09.2015 - 18:53

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Kaere alle. Der er lavet en lille rettelse til dette sjal, man skal begynde med at strikke vendingerne med Delight og ikke BabyAlpaca Silk. Se ogsaa under RETTELSER.

18.08.2015 - 12:08

country flag Chatarina wrote:

Hej! Är verkligen detta mönstret rätt? Jag får iallafall inte det till att stämma. Snälla, ni kan väl göra rättelser om det är något fel. Tack på förhand.

21.06.2015 - 15:22

country flag Anne-Marie Brosbøl wrote:

Kan det passe at man skal skifte garntype i de forkortede pinde, jeg kan ikke få det til at passe! Og hvis jeg skifter garn i domino-starten, bliver ret til vrang??? Venlig hilsen Anne-Marie

09.05.2015 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Marie, du kan godt skifte garn i de forkortede pinde, dog ikke i den side hvor du vender midt i arbejdet. God fornøjelse!

22.05.2015 - 15:31

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Het lijkt mij heerlijk zo'n lange kerstvakantie te hebben. Natuurlijk ben ik met mijn vragen naar de verkoopster gegaan, maar wist de antwoorden niet en verwees mij naar U. Vaak opnieuw begonnen en niet helemaal gelukt,maar het werkstuk is inmiddels gereed. Blijft voor mij overeind dat er een fout in het patroon zit en ik geen antwoord op mijn vragen kreeg. Met vriendelijke groet, Ingrid.

04.02.2015 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ingrid. De vraag over het probleem in dit patroon ligt nog bij onze Designafdeling, omdat zij de laatste tijd heel druk zijn geweest met het afmaken van de nieuwe zomercollectie. Ik hoop natuurlijk dat er binnenkort een reactie zal komen! En een persoonlijke noot: ik begrijp uw frustratie, maar aan de andere kant van het internet zitten ook hardwerkende mensen die hun best doen om u en andere gratis ondersteuning te bieden op onze gratis patronen. Fijne dag verder! Mvg. Tine

05.02.2015 - 11:35

country flag Linda Rasmussen wrote:

Nu har jeg strikket de forkortede pinde første gang således, at der er 4 masker tilbage + maskerne fra dominoruden. Skal der strikkes 1 pind ret over alle masker, inden man strikker de forkortede pinde 2. gang? Eller skal jeg starte med at strikke 12 (4+8) masker på første pind. Jeg synes ligesom Diana og Maja, at det ikke kommer til at passe, så jeg kan få den lyse kant i nakken. I har tidligere lovet en rettelse til opskriften, men den er ikke kommet endnu.

01.02.2015 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, Ja så strikker du en pind over alle m inden du starter forfra. God fornøjelse!

27.05.2015 - 15:17

country flag Linda Rasmussen wrote:

Vedr. Model nr. de-114 - Dancing Wind (sjal) På billedet af sjalet er der et meget flot mønster, men den mønstereffekt får jeg slet ikke. Jeg kan ikke helt forstå, hvordan det skal fremkomme, når man skal strikke skiftevis 2 p i hver garntype, det giver hos mig kun et stribet mønster.

27.01.2015 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda. Du skal ogsaa strikke de forkortede pinde og dominoruder som staar beskrevet i mönstret

27.01.2015 - 15:55