DROPS / 155 / 37

Beach Party by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket with zig-zag pattern in ”Cotton Light”.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-034
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Measurements: Width: 80 cm / 31½'' Length: 145 cm / 57''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
150 g color no 21, light beige
150 g color no 01, off white
150 g color no 25, light lilac
100 g color no 22, brown
100 g color no 23, light purple
50 g color no 13, violet
50 g color no 27, mint
50 g color no 08, ice blue
50 g color no 14, turquoise
50 g color no 18, pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 16 dc measured horizontally = 10 cm / 4'' in width. 1 repetition of A.3 measures approx. 11.5 cm / 4½'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
COLORS:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Work A.1 and A.2 = 52 stripes in total.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.3. Every stripe = 2 rows.
----------------------------------------------------------

BLANKET:
Worked back and forth.
Work 194 LOOSE ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with light purple. See explanation of COLORS above. Then work according to diagram A.3, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 5, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch = 126 dc. There are 7 zig-zags in total. Turn piece.
ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same space, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 6 more times = 70 dc. Turn and switch color.
ROW 3: ch 3, * 1 dc in first ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same space, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 more times = 126 dc. Turn.
ROW 4: 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same space, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 6 more times = 70 dc. Turn and switch color.
Repeat 3rd and 4th row until last row on color diagram = 52 stripes in total.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge after last row on A.2 in light beige, and an edge along first ch-row in light purple as follows: Work 1 sc in every st.
Fasten all strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= light purple
= light lilac
= off white
= light beige
= brown
= mint
= turquoise
= ice blue
= violet
= pink
= 1 ch
= 1 dc in dc
= 1 dc in ch-space
= These 2 rows = 1 stripe
= These rows are explained in pattern. These 2 rows are the start of A.1.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Marian Dijk 16.08.2017 - 22:19:

Goedenavond ik zou graag deze mooie deken willen maken maar dan voor een 2 persoonsbed. Hoeveel steken mag ik dan opzetten??? Groetjes

DROPS Design 20.08.2017 kl. 21:57:

Hallo Marian, Het hangt er een beetje vanaf hoe breed je hem wilt hebben. Deze deken is 80 cm breed en er zijn 7 herhalingen in de breedte van het telpatroon. Elke herhaling is 11,5 cm breed. Als je de eerste toer haakt worden er een aantal lossen over geslagen. Op basis van deze informatie kun je uitrekenen hoeveel lossen je op moet zetten.

Anne Johansen 01.08.2017 - 16:58:

Hei. På første omgang sier mønsteret at man skal hoppe over 1 lm mellom hver 3. st. Hva er hensikten med dette? Jeg får bare en "rar" løs kant nederst. Det blir også store rare hull der jeg hopper over 5 lm. Finnes det et bilde av kanten på teppet?

DROPS Design 07.08.2017 kl. 13:47:

Hei Anne. Det at du hopper over 1 lm mellom hver 3.stav på 1.rad er for å unngå at det strammer seg på oppleggskanten. Det skal bli et stort hull der du hopper over 5 lm, det er slik du danner sikk-sakk mønsteret, du vil det godt når du har heklet noen rader. God Fornøyelse.

Charlotte Rietveld 23.04.2017 - 20:26:

Klopt dat je 197 losse eerst moet haken en later uitkomt op 126 steken en dan keren en dan heb je 70 steken? Ik begrijp dit niet zo ik hou een hele lap aan losse over hoe kan dit?

DROPS Design 03.05.2017 kl. 09:00:

Hallo Charlotte, Ik heb het 2 keer nagerekent en uitgetekent en het aantal lossen dat je op moet zetten klopt. Je moet 194 steken opzetten. In de eerste toer herhaal je het gedeelte tussen de sterretjes nog 5 keer, dus in totaal haak je dat gedeelte 6 keer. Dan kom je op een totaal van 194 lossen. Wellicht ben je ergens een herhaling vergeten?

Judy 25.02.2016 - 15:13:

Row 3 is confusing to me...1 dbl crochet into ch and 1 dbl crochet into nxt dbl crochet? Are these stitches to be worked into the ch 1 space or into the actual stitches?..really need a bit of clarification...thx so much...

DROPS Design 26.02.2016 kl. 10:40:

Dear Judy, on row 3, you will crochet 1 dc around the ch-space andn 1 dc in next dc - see also diagram A.3 to see how the stitches will be. Happy crocheting!

Sandra 02.02.2016 - 08:33:

Kann es sein, dass in Diagramm A.3 ein Fehler ist? Am Beginn von Reihe 1 häkelt man laut Text 3 Wendeluftmaschen (= 1 Stäbchen) und 2 Stäbchen gefolgt von 2x 3er Gruppen Stäbchen, insgesammt also 9 Stäbchen, was dann auch die gleiche Anzahl wäre wie am Ende der Reihe. Im Diagramm sind allerdings 10 Stäbchen eingezeichnet.

DROPS Design 09.03.2016 kl. 13:46:

Liebe Sandra, haben Sie gesehen, dass in den ungerade Reihen die Wendeluftmaschen nicht als Stb zählen? Dann stimmt der Text doch mit dem Diagramm überein.

Kate 23.01.2016 - 14:12:

Er staat bij Toer 1 op een gegeven moment (2e regel), 1 stk in elke van de volgende 3l, 3l, sla 1 l over, 1 stk. Wat betekend die 3l ertussen? Is dit een schrijffout? 1 stk in elke van de volgende 3l is duidelijk, dat ik 1l moet overslaan ook, maar de 3l ertussen? Wat moet ik daar doen?

Pernille 07.11.2015 - 20:26:

Hej. Jeg kunne godt tænke mig at lave et babytæppe af dette mønster. Hvad skal den første række med luftmasker være deleligt med for at det passer?

DROPS Design 20.11.2015 kl. 15:05:

Hej, du ser nederst i diagrammet hvor mange masker du skal bruge til en hel rapport (A.3) God fornøjelse!

Michele 12.05.2015 - 04:34:

I think this pattern is beautiful. But I don't understand. It seems that row 2 and row 4 end with skipping last two doubles leaving 2 unworked. Am I missing something? Thank you

DROPS Design 12.05.2015 kl. 10:06:

Dear Michele, when you are working row 2 and 4 repeat from *-* to the end of row, ie row will finish with 1 dc in last dc. Happy crocheting!

Susan McGuire 03.01.2015 - 10:43:

What does the pattern mean when it says "do an edge after last row of A2"? Do you not do an edge all the way around the blanket? If you do, how do you do it please?

DROPS Design 03.01.2015 kl. 15:24:

Dear Mrs McGuire, you only work an edge on both short ends, ie after last row in A.2 and along the fundation chain. Happy crocheting!

Katrin Kröger 22.10.2014 - 22:31:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Anleitung: Häkelt man erst die Farbfolge A1 und danach A2, oder häkelt man erst bis zum Ende von A2, dann noch einmal A2 und dann den Rest von A1? Viele Grüße aus Berlin Katrin

DROPS Design 23.10.2014 kl. 10:49:

Liebe Katrin, Sie häkeln zuerst die Farbfolge A.1 komplett 1x und danach die Farbfolge A.2 1x, dann kommen Sie auf 52 Farbstreifen. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 155-37

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.