DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-990
DROPS design: Pattern no mb-008
Yarn group C
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Measurements:
Height: approx. 28 cm / 11'' (from head to foot)

Materials: DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio
Color no 02, gray: 50 g
Color no 18, red: 50 g
Some left-over of color no 04, black

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 sc = width 10 cm / 4'' with Big Merino.

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 2 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid hole in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= 1st sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc on round and 1st sc on next round, move the marker upwards when working.

CROCHET TOG:
Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc (or next 2 sc the same way) but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice color change work last sc on round as follows: Insert hook in last st, get yarn, make a YO with the new color and pull it through all sts on hook.

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MOUSE:
First work head and body, then arms and legs in Big Merino.

HEAD:
Worked in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
Start at the tip on snout by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - with gray.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the magic circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 20 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 8: Work the first 2 sc tog - READ CROCHET TOG, work the next 2 sc tog, * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 7 more times (8 inc in total), then work the last 4 sc tog 2 by 2 = 28 sc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 7 more times (8 inc in total), then 1 sc in each of the last 2 sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 7 more times (8 inc in total), then 1 sc in each of the last 2 sc = 44 sc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 sc in each of the first 18 sc, * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (4 inc in total), then 1 sc in each of the last 18 sc = 48 sc. Insert 1 marker between the middle 2 inc = mid front (this is for assembly).
ROUND 13-15: Work 1 sc in every sc = 48 sc on the round.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 sc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 sc in every sc = 42 sc on the round.
ROUND 18: * 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 sc.
ROUND 19: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 23: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sc.
ROUND 25: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 26: * 1 sc in next sc, then work the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc. Do not cut the yarn.
With black embroider on eyes and mouth on head, make 1 knot with red for nose at the top of snout. Fill the head with some poly stuffing.
Continue to finish the head as follows:
ROUND 27: Work 1 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 28: Work all sc tog 2 by 2 = 6 sc.
Cut the yarn and pull it through all sts and tighten tog.

EAR:
Worked back and forth.
ROW 1: Beg at the bottom of ear, ch 5 with gray, then 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next ch 2, 2 sc in last ch = 6 sc, turn.
ROW 2: ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in every sc until 1 sc remains, 2 sc in last sc = 8 sc, turn.
ROW 3: ch 1, 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROW 4: ch 1, work the first 2 sc tog, 1 sc in every sc until 2 sc remain, work 2 sc tog = 6 sc.
Repeat 4TH ROW 2 more times = 2 sts remain on row, fasten off.
Work another ear the same way.
Fold ears double at the bottom an sew them on each side of head.

BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
Start by making a magic circle at the bottom of body with red.
ROUND 1: Work 8 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in every sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, then 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 44 sc.
ROUND 9-14: Work 1 sc in every sc = 44 sc on round - but at the end of last round switch to gray - READ COLOR CHANGE.
ROUND 15: Work 1 sc in every sc = 44 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sc.
ROUND 17-18: Work 1 sc in every sc = 40 sc on the round.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sc.
ROUND 20: Work 1 sc in every sc = 32 sc on the round.
ROUND 21: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, then crochet 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 22: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc on the round.
ROUND 23: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc on the round. Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 11 3/4'' for assembly.
Fill the body with some poly stuffing.

LEGS:
Worked in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
Start at edge of foot by making a magic circle with red.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sc.
ROUND 4 and 5: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc on the round.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, * work the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (4 dec in total), then 1 sc in each of the last 5 sc on round = 14 sc.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, * work the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (4 dec in total), then 1 sc in each of the last 3 sc on round = 10 sc.
ROUND 8 and 9: Work 1 sc in every sc = 10 sc on round - but at the end of last round switch to gray - READ COLOR CHANGE.
Then work 1 sc in every sc as follows: * 2 rounds with gray, 2 rounds with red *, repeat from *-* until there are 3 stripes in total with red, then work 2 more rounds with red (leg measures approx. 10 cm / 4'').
Cut the yarn and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly.
Work another leg the same way.
Fill the legs with some poly stuffing.

ARM:
Worked in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start at edge of arm by making a magic circle with red.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc.
ROUND 4 and 5: Work 1 sc in every sc = 12 sc on the round.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in next sc, work the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 8 sc - switch to gray at the end of round.
Continue working 1 sc in every sc with gray until arm measures approx. 9 cm / 3½''. Cut the yarn and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly.
Work another arm the same way.
Fill the arms with some poly stuffing.

TAIL:
Chain a band for approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' with gray on hook size 4 mm / G/6 (no of ch should be even), turn and work 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, * skip ch 1, 1 sl st in next ch *, repeat from *-* along the entire ch row, cut the yarn and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the head on to body with neat little stitches.
Sew the legs and arms in each side of body, sew the tail to the back of body.

SUSPENDERS:
Ch 3 with red on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch and 1 sc in next ch. Beg every row with 1 ch and work sc back and forth until piece measures 14 cm / 5½''. Finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in last sc on row. Fasten off.
Crochet another one.
Sew beg end to last round red (pants) at the back of mouse, approx. 4 cm / 1½'' apart.
Sew on two buttons in last round red on mouse, approx. 3.5 cm / 1 1/4'' from mid front and fasten ch ring on suspenders around the buttons.
Cross suspenders on the back.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.12.2021
Under HEAD, 4 rounds are deleted (to get a better shape on the back of the head).
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Carmen wrote:

Hola, cuál es el punto e. (p.e) que se usa para tejer la cola? No aparece en los tutoriales ni en el diccionario. gracias!

05.08.2022 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen, p.e es punto enano, también llamado punto bajísimo. Puedes ver cómo trabajarlo en la siguiente lección: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=20&cid=23

07.08.2022 - 23:59

country flag Sofia wrote:

Jag får inte mönstret att stämma på huvudet. Det blir långt och spetsigt baktill, inte alls runt som på bilden. Har det i beskrivningen kommit in för många varv? Jag är säker på att jag virkat rätt.

04.12.2021 - 08:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sofia. Oppskriften er oversendt design avd. slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk og evnt komme med en rettelse. Men du kan evnt hoppe over omgang 21. 23, 25 og 27. Da vil bakhodet bli noe flatere. mvh DROPS Design

07.12.2021 - 12:50

country flag Cricri692 wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour ce joli modèle ! Pourriez vous nous donner les explications pour terminer la queue et qu'elle soit comme sur la photo svp ! Merciii

07.06.2019 - 19:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cricri692, crochetez bien la queue comme expliquée, autrement dit, commencez par 1 mc dans la 2ème ml à partir du crochet, puis *sautez 1 maille en l'air, 1 maille coulée dans la maille en l'air suivante*, répétez de *-* tout le long de la chaînette, on va ainsi former une petite spirale, comme sur la photo. Bon crochet!

11.06.2019 - 09:52

country flag Gabi wrote:

Ein großes Lob und Danke von mir für die Anleitung, Ich habe noch nicht viele Tiere gehäkelt, aber dies ist mit Abstand die beste und verständlichste Anleitung, die ich bisher nachhäkeln durfte. Da können sich Einige, die ihre Anleitungen verkaufen, noch eine dicke Scheibe abschneiden.

06.05.2019 - 13:30

country flag FORESTIER Monique wrote:

Bonjour, je ne sais pas comment placer la tète sur le corps.Merci pour tous les magnifiques modèle s

16.03.2019 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Forestier, placez la tête au-dessus du haut du corps (comme on le voit sur la 2ème photo), et avec une aiguille à coudre et le fil gris (les 30 cm de la fin du corps), assemblez la tête au corps en piquant alternativement dans les mailles de la tête et dans les mailles et dans celles du dernier rang du corps en faisant tout le tour. Maintenez la tête en place, vous pouvez épingler dans un premier temps si besoin pour ajuster la position de la tête. Bon assemblage!

18.03.2019 - 08:43

country flag "> wrote:

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04.01.2019 - 15:22

country flag Margareta wrote:

Hur tvättar man alla virkade leksaker, som är stoppade med vadd och gjorda av bomull och akryl?

19.11.2018 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Margareta. det står vaskeanvisning på alle våre garn. Bomullsgarnet Paris feks kan vaskes på 60 grader, mens Safran vaskes på 40. Du kan finne vaskeanvisning til alle våre garn ved å klikke deg inn på dem her . Når det kommer til vatten må du nesten frohøre deg med forhandleren av dette, vi har dessverre ingen oversikt over det. God fornøyelse.

23.11.2018 - 11:16

country flag Lucie wrote:

Merci de votre réponse si rapide. Nous ne nous sommes pas compris il me semble. Je ne recherche pas une souris à faire au tricot mais un modèle de souris à faire au crochet, mais cette souris en question tricote elle même (j’ai une photo mais je ne peux visiblement pas la joindre pour illustrer mon propos.)

10.08.2018 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucie, vous trouverez tous nos modèles de jouets ici. Bon crochet!

13.08.2018 - 10:50

country flag Lucie wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis actuellement a la recherche de ce type de modèle de souris mais je recherche précisément une petite souris blanche qui porte une robe rose et qui tricote, auriez-vous ce type de modèle ? Cordialement

10.08.2018 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucie, nous avons un lapin au tricot mais pas de souris blanche habillée, désolée.

10.08.2018 - 15:13

country flag Lies wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich habe bei einer Händlerin in Berlin die Drops Big Merino in Farbe 02 und 18 gekauft. Beim Häkeln habe ich gemerkt, dass der Faden von Farbe 18 teilweise kaputt war. Immer wieder gab es Stellen, wo mehrere Teilfaden durch waren, aber nicht der komplette Faden. Die Händlerin war sehr freundlich und hat mir neue Wolle gegeben. Ich wollte den Vorfall aber trotzdem bei Ihnen als Hersteller melden.

16.10.2017 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lies, so haben Sie es richtig gemacht, der Laden wird uns darüber besprechen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.10.2017 - 15:32