DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 74-2
Sizes: XS - S - M - L - XL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-80-88-96-106 cm
Waist: 64-72-80-88-96 cm
Hem: 72-80-88-96-106 cm

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250 gr nr 05, light pink

DROPS 3.5 mm, 4.5 mm and 5 mm needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 19 sts x 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm on largest needles in stockinette st. In order to obtain the same gauge for Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 you may need to knit on mid-size needles.

Pattern: See charts. The patterns are seen from the right side.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Decreasing tips-1 (for waist shaping):
All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st as follows:
After 1st marker: K 2 tog.
Before 2nd marker: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Decreasing tips-2 (for armholes):
All decs are made on right side rows inside 3 edge sts knit in garter st. Dec 1 st as follows:
After 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 3 edge sts: K 2 tog.


Front:
Cast on 70-78-86-94-102 sts on mid-size needles. Knit 4 rows garter st, change to largest needles and stockinette st. Put a marker 18-21-24-26-29 sts in from each side – there will be 34-36-38-42-44 sts between markers. When the piece measures 5-6-7-9-11 cm dec 1 st after first marker and 1 st before 2nd marker every 4 rows 4 times - see decreasing tips-1 = 62-70-78-86-94 sts.
When the piece measures 13-15-17-19-21 cm inc 1 st after first marker and 1 st before 2nd marker - inc by pulling up a st from the previous row and knit in stockinette st. Inc 1 st every 4 rows a total of 4 times = 70-78-86-94-102 sts.
When the piece measures approx. 29-30-31-32-33 cm (adjust so the next row will be a right side row) change to mid-size needles and knit 4 rows garter st, decreasing 3-5-5-5-5 sts evenly distributed on the first row = 67-73-81-89-97 sts.
Knit the next row as follows (right side row): bind off 3-3-4-5-6 sts, knit 3 sts garter st, Pattern 1A (= 7 sts), Pattern 1B over 42-48-54-60-66 sts, Pattern 1C (=6 sts), 3 sts garter st, bind off 3-3-4-5-6 sts = 61-67-73-79-85 sts.

Read the entire next section before knitting:
Knit Pattern 1 once, then Pattern 2 once, keeping 3 sts at each side in garter st throughout. At the same time dec 1 st for armhole at each side every other row 2-4-6-7-8 times - see decreasing tips-2 = 57-59-61-65-69 sts. After Pattern 2 bind off the center 41-43-45-49-53 sts for the neck = 8 sts remain on each shoulder. Change to smallest needles and knit garter (this will be the strap) until the piece measures 55-58-61-64-67 cm or desired length, bind off.

Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front. Bind off for armhole as on front, and bind off all sts after Pattern 2. The piece measures approx. 41-42-43-44-45 cm.

Assembly: Sew side seams and sew straps at each side on back.

Diagram

symbols = stockinette st/knit (as seen from the right side)
symbols = reverse stockinette st/purl (as seen from the right side)
symbols = yo
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 74-2

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Eva Larsson wrote:

Hej, Ni får nog räkna om garnkostnaden. Står att det skulle kosta 45,90 för minsta storleken. Stämmer ju inte alls. Garnkostnad 22,95/50 gram och minsta storleken behöver 200 gram med den matematik jag fick lära mej i skolan blir summan 91,80. Ganska missvisande

26.03.2023 - 17:38

country flag Lindy Palmer wrote:

On pattern 1, when I start decreasing for armhole, I have two problems: the decrease interferes with the pattern. Also, when doing row 3 of the Pattern, the symbol for decreasing 3 stitches to 1 falls in between the lines for M.1A and M.1B and M.1B and M.1C. I’m having to repeat the M.1B 9 times, so I don’t even know how to maneuver that. I must be missing something? Thanks

09.07.2020 - 03:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Palmer, when you decrease stitches, work in stocking stitch the stitches that cannot be worked anymore in the pattern - and make always should you always have a decrease to compensate the yarn overs from the lace pattern to avoid decreasing/increasing stitches. Happy knititng!

09.07.2020 - 09:43

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, pour ce modele, j'ai le fil Belle, mon échantillon avec aig.5mm est correct sur la largeur mais j'ai 11.5 cm de longeur. Pour le corps ca va, mais je me demande ce qui arrivera pour le point fantaisie. merci de m'aider.

23.09.2019 - 19:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, essayez de "tirer" un peu moins vos mailles en hauteur, sinon, vous pouvez essayer de commencer le point ajouré plus tôt en vous basant sur vos mesures et celles du schéma. Bon tricot!

24.09.2019 - 10:20

country flag Dani wrote:

Stricktop DROPS / 74 / 2 Liebes DROPS-Team, in der Anleitung z. Vorderteil steht: "....nach dem 1. Markierungsfaden und vor dem 2.Markierungsfaden abketten – siehe Tipp für das Abketten-1: 1 M 4 Mal auf alle 4.Ndl..." Was ich nicht verstehe : Wieso 4. Ndl ? Sollte es nicht logischerweise "1 Masche jeweils rechts und links bei den zwei Markierungen alle 4 Reihen" heissen ? Vielen Dank im voraus für Ihre Antwort.

13.09.2017 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dani, es wird nach den 1. Markierungsfaden und vor den 2. Markierungsfaden in jede 4. Reihe zugenommen, dh 2 M werden pro Zunahmenreihe zugenommen insgesamt 4 mal (= 8 M werden im Total zugenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.09.2017 - 08:09

country flag Catherine Mireault wrote:

Vous ne répondez pas à ma question, merci quand même!!

06.07.2016 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mirault, pardon de ne pas avoir compris votre question, n'hésitez pas à la reformuler. Merci. Bon tricot!

07.07.2016 - 08:21

country flag Catherine Mireault wrote:

Bonjour, je n'arrive pas à faire le motif....est-ce que je commence les diminutions sur m1 au 3eme rang ou seulement à m2? Je finis toujours le 3eme rang avec des mailles en trop pourtant j'ai bien 73 mailles après m1a,m1b et m1c???? Merci

05.07.2016 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mireault, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment réaliser ce motif et vous aidera sans doute à visualiser comment faire. Bon tricot!

06.07.2016 - 07:59

country flag Catherine Mireault wrote:

Bonjour Après m1a,m1b et m1c, sur l' envers, est.ce que je fais le 2eme rang de m1,soit tout à l'envers? Et après est ce que je continu m1 au 3 ieme rang ou je reprends au premier rang??? Merci

04.07.2016 - 02:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mireault, tout à fait, au 2ème rang (= sur l'envers), lisez le diagramme de gauche à droite (tout à l'envers dans M.1), puis au 3ème rang, tricotez le 3ème rang de M.1 A, B et C, et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

04.07.2016 - 10:48

country flag Lemesle wrote:

Bonjour, Il me semble d'après la photo, que le motif M2 ne se fait que 1 fois et non 2 comme indiqué dans les explications.

22.01.2015 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lemesle, c'est exact, le texte a été corrigé, merci. Bon tricot!

22.01.2015 - 10:35

country flag Kristin wrote:

Hallo! Ich habe das Top in S gestrickt und von 200 g sind höchstens 3 bis 4 Meter Wolle übrig geblieben. Ich kann nicht glauben, dass 200 g auch für M reichen!

06.06.2014 - 17:30

country flag Linda wrote:

I am starting pattern 1. The first row says to knit 1B 48sts. Do you do this through the rest of the pattern? Also, when it says to decrease 1 stitch for the armholes it runs into the pattern. Do I just the first and last stitch in the pattern? Also, if I do that some of the rows show a "yarn over right before. Would I skip the yarn overs also? Thank you for your help! Linda...:)

20.07.2013 - 03:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, M.1 is worked in 3 parts : M.1 on the first 7sts, then repeat the 6 sts in M.1B on the next sts until 6 sts remain = M.1C. When you decrease, you can either work in st st all sts than cannot be worked into a full repeat. Happy knitting!

20.07.2013 - 09:48