DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Mist Jacket

Knitted DROPS jacket with stripes in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 151-11
DROPS design: Pattern no z-651
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-250 g colour no 9020, light pearl grey
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-75-75-75 g colour no 20, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 10, grey
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st and 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 7 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES BODY:
Work in stocking st with needle size 5 mm and switch to needle size 4 mm on ridges in garter st.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in stocking st: 15-14½-15½-16-16-17 cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 10 in stocking st: 8-8½-8½-9-9½-9½ cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 10 in garter st: 8-8½-8½-9-9½-9½ cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in garter st: 5-5½-5½-5-5-5 cm
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in stocking st: 3-3-3-3½-4-4 cm
Alpaca colour no 0100 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in stocking st: 8-8½-8½-9-9½-9½ cm.
Alpaca colour no 0100 and Kid-Silk colour no 01 in stocking st until piece is finished.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Work in stocking st with needle size 5 mm and switch to needle size 4 mm on ridges in garter st.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in stocking st: 16-14½-14½-15-14-14 cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 10 in stocking st: 8-8½-8½-8½-9-9 cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 10 in garter st: 8-8½-8½-8½-9-9 cm.
Alpaca colour no 9020 and Kid-Silk colour no 20 in garter st: 5-5½-5½-5-5-5 cm
After this work according to stripes on body.

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of marker.
Dec as follows BEFORE marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 button hole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm
SIZE M: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm
SIZE L: 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm
SIZE XL: 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, 59 and 63 cm
SIZE XXL: 11, 20, 29, 38, 47, 56 and 65 cm
SIZE XXXL: 13, 22, 31, 40, 49, 58 and 67 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Loosely cast on 153-174-188-202-216-230 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand light pearl grey Alpaca and 1 strand light beige Kid-Silk. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and insert 1 marker 41-46-50-53-57-60 sts in from each side (= 71-82-88-96-102-110 sts between markers on back piece). Then work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above but work 6 band sts in each side towards mid front in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers in the sides (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3 cm 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 129-150-164-178-192-206 sts. Remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When piece measures 25 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2½-2½-3-3-3½-3½ cm 4 more times (= 5 times in total) = 149-170-184-198-212-226 sts. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off from on a row from RS 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4 sts on each side of both markers) = 133-154-168-182-196-210 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. LOOSELY cast on 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 strand light pearl grey Alpaca and 1 strand light beige Kid-Silk. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – until piece measures 3 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm, insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Then work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-8-9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3-3-3-2½ cm 7-8-9-9-10-11 more times (= 8-9-10-10-11-12 times in total) = 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 40 cm in all sizes, cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast off 4 sts on each side of marker) = 46-50-54-56-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve the same way.


YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 225-254-276-294-316-338 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). Continue with stripes in stocking st and bands in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec for RAGLAN (= 8 dec) – see explanation above! Repeat dec on every row from RS 2-2-2-2-3-4 more times (= 3-3-3-3-4-5 times in total) = 201-230-252-270-284-298 sts. Insert 1 marker, measure piece from here. On next row from RS, dec 3-2-6-6-8-16 sts evenly = 198-228-246-264-276-282 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. On next row from RS work as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, K 2, * K 2 tog, K 4 *, repeat from *-* until 10 sts remain, finish with K 2 tog, K 2 and 6 band sts in garter st = 167-192-207-222-232-237 sts. Continue in stocking st and bands in garter st until piece measures 11-11-12-13-13-13 cm. On next row work as follows (from RS): 6 band sts in garter st, K 2, * K 2 tog, K 3 *, repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain, finish with K 2 tog, K 1 and 6 band sts in garter st = 136-156-168-180-188-192 sts. Continue in stocking st and bands in garter st until piece measures 16-17-18-19-19-19 cm. Work next row as follows from RS:
SIZE S: 6 band sts in garter st, K 2, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 6 band sts in garter st = 96 sts.
SIZE M and L: 6 band sts in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-*, finish with 6 band sts in garter st = 108-116 sts.
SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL: 6 band sts in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 9-7-6 sts remain, finish with K 3-1-0 and 6 band sts in garter st = 114-118-120 sts.

ALL SIZES:
K 1 row from WS. Then work an elevation in back of neck as follows from RS: K until 25-27-29-29-29-29 sts remain. Turn, K back until 25-27-29-29-29-29 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 32-34-36-36-36-36 sts remain. Turn, K back until 32-34-36-36-36-36 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 39-41-43-43-43-43 sts remain. Turn, K back until 39-41-43-43-43-43 sts remain in the other side. Turn, K until 46-48-50-50-50-50 sts remain. Turn, K back until 46-48-50-50-50-50 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece and K the rest of the row. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in garter st until piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm measured along mid front and loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Lieve Ryckaert wrote:

Hallo, Bij het opmeten van de hoogte waarop de minderingen op het lijf beginnen, hoort daar de 3 cm ribbelsteek bij, dus de totale lengte of tel je vanaf het deel in tricotsteek? Met vriendelijke dank voor uw hulp,

05.03.2024 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve,

Dat is inderdaad de totale lengte, vanaf het opzetten, dus inclusief de 3 cm ribbelsteek.

05.03.2024 - 22:21

country flag Clara wrote:

Bonjour, comment calculer le nombre pelotes adéquate pour tricoter ce modèle en couleur uni avec 2 fils (alpaca et kid-silk) ? Cordialement et merci pour votre réponse !

16.06.2021 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Clara, la quantité est toujours indiquée pour chaque taille, au poids, autrement dit, 200 g Alpaca/50 g la pelote = 4 pelotes Alpaga et 75 g Kid-Silk/25 g la pelote = 3 pelotes Kid-Silk. Bon tricot!

17.06.2021 - 08:04

country flag Corinne GUILLET wrote:

Bonjour, je viens d'achever mon ouvrage et horreur ... Les manches sont parfaites, la longueur du gilet parfaite mais il manque en largeur au moins 7 cm !!! Je m'habille en 36 / 38 et j'ai fait le modèle en S; Dois je le refaire en M ou prendre des aiguilles plus grosses. Je crains que le M soit trop grand. Merci de votre aide. Cordialement.

28.12.2019 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Guillet, avez-vous bien le bon échantillon/la même tension tout le long du gilet, soit 17 m = 10 cm? (plus d'infos sur l'échantillon ici). Vérifiez bien les mesures du schéma, elles vous permettront de vérifier quelle taille vous convient (recommandé pour chaque modèle). Bon tricot!

02.01.2020 - 17:21

country flag Corinne GUILLET wrote:

Bonjour, je ne trouve pas les boutons conseillés pour ce modèle. Pour en choisir un autre modèle j'ai besoin de connaître la taille des boutons. Merci par avance pour votre aide.

02.11.2019 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Guillet, vous trouverez les boutons chez votre magasin DROPS Superstore, entre autres, tous les détails de ces boutons n°522 sont ici. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 16:11

country flag Alena wrote:

Dobrý den, rozumím správně z návodu, že se pro pletení vroubkového vzoru má pokaždé převádět pletenina na jehlice č. 4? Tedy nejen při pletení lemů ?\r\nDěkuji za odpověď, s pozdravem Alena.

16.10.2019 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Aleno, měnit jehlice mimo lemy není nezbytně nutné - obecně doporučujeme tuto změnu především proto, že vroubkový vzor má jinou hustotu než lícový žerzej a také má větší tendenci povolit do délky, proto je vhodnější plést jej slabšími jehlicemi. Záleží ale na vás, vašich pletařských zkušenostech i způsobu utahování, zda budete jehlice měnit nebo ne (ppř. si hlídejte, abyste u vroubkového vzoru víc utahovala). Hodně zdaru! Hana

03.11.2019 - 19:27

country flag ROSIER wrote:

Bonsoir, Doit-on tricoter les 3 cm de jersey sur les manches avant de faire l'empiècement ? Cette rayure n'étant pas mentionnée pour les manches et sachant que les manches sont déjà à 40 cm sans cette rayure de 3 cm. A quel moment doit-on inclure les manches dans l'empiècement ? Merci d'avance pour vos explications

02.11.2018 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rosier, les manches se terminent par la 4ème rayure = 1 fil Alpaca 9020 + 1 fil Kid-Silk 20. Quand la manche mesure 40 cm de hauteur totale, vous rabattez 8 m sous la manche (= les 4 dernières + les 4 premières m du tour) et mettez en attente - quand les 2 manches sont faites, on les reprend pour l'empiècement (voir vidéo) en continuant les rayures de l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

05.11.2018 - 08:23

country flag ROSIER wrote:

Bonjour, Pourriez-vous m'aider je bloque au niveau de l'empiècement.Et cela des le début des explications.

18.10.2018 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rosier, vous placez les manches au-dessus des emmanchures (cf vidéo) puis vous diminuez pour le raglan (cf vidéo - puis vous diminuez pour l'empiècement arrondi comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

19.10.2018 - 08:33

country flag Febe wrote:

Hittade bara en liten översättningsmiss. Under oket: Åh, hade varit så smart att kunna klistra in en skärmdump. Men "men 222-232-237 m. Fortsätt med slätsticka och stolpar i rätst tills arb mäter 11-11-" Det ska väl vara "slätstickning" im man ska vara petig, men "stolpar"... jag fick frågan, "ska man virka där??". Det skall väl vara "framkanter". Mvh Febe

12.01.2015 - 13:35

country flag Tina wrote:

Fertig! Mit schönen Perlmuttknöpfen ein sehr edles Teil. Vielen Dank für die Anleitung - wieder eine schöne Ergänzung meiner Garderobe. Fröhliche Weihnachten!!!!

24.12.2013 - 08:00

country flag Mag wrote:

J'ai fini mon cardigan,il est magnifique,doux,léger et bien chaud. Je n'ai que des compliments.

14.10.2013 - 13:27