DROPS 151-29
DROPS design: Pattern no de-100
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm / 36¼”-39½”-42½”-46½”-51½”-55¾”
Full length: 69-75-81-89-98-107 cm /27”-29½”-31½”-35”-38½”-42”

Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 05, beige/gray/pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 2 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
FIGURE: See figures A.1 and A.2.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

DOMINO SQUARE 1:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K the rest of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 but work every 14th-16th-16th-18th-20th-22nd row as follows – from RS:
K until 3 sts remain before st with marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, slip 1 st as if to K, work 1 st, psso, K the rest of row (on this row 4 sts are dec instead of 2).
Continue this pattern upwards, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of square on every other row and 4 sts in the middle of square every 14th-16th-16th-18th-20th-22nd row until 1 st remains on row, cut the yarn and pull it through st.

DOMINO SQUARE 2:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K the rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

HALF A DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K the first 2 sts on row tog, K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, work until 2 sts remain, K the last 2 sts on tog.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of square and 1 st in each side of square on every other row until 3 sts remain on needle, K 1 row from WS over the 3 sts.
On next row (= RS) work as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last sts.

QUARTER DOMINO SQUARE:
8 band sts are worked in garter st until the quarter square has been finished.
SQUARE 5 and 8:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K 8, K 2 tog, work until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 1 st in each side of square on every other row until 1 st (+ 8 band sts) remains.
SQUARE 6 and 7:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K 2 tog, work until 10 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 8.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 1 st in each side of square on every other row until 1 st (+ 8 band sts) remains.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band when working square 5. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when 31 sts remain on row (includes band sts), repeat dec when 13 sts remain on row.
----------------------------------------------------------


JACKET:
Beg by casting on for square 1 and 2, then work one and one square back and forth in garter st. All sts are picked up from RS. Figure A.1 and A.2 shows how the squares are knitted. Work squares back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.

SQUARE 1 and 2: Cast on 342-362-390-430-474-510 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Delight. K 1 row from WS. Now work DOMINO SQUARES 1 - see explanation above - over the first 171-181-195-215-237-255 sts - start on 2nd row. (Keep the remaining sts on the needle.) When Square 1 has been worked, work Domino square 1 over the last 171-181-195-215-237-255 sts on row (= square 2).

SQUARE 3:
Pick up 75-80-87-97-108-117 sts along one over side of square 1, pick up 1 st between square 1 and square 2 and pick up 75-80-87-97-108-117 sts along one over side from square 2 – SEE FIGURE A.1 = 151-161-175-195-217-235 sts. Work HALF A DOMINO SQUARE - see explanation above.

SQUARE 4:
Pick up 85-90-97-107-118-127 sts along one bottom edge of square 2, pick up 1 st between square 2 and square 1 and pick up 85-90-97-107-118-127 sts along one bottom edge from square 1 = 171-181-195-215-237-255 sts. Knit Half a domino square.

SQUARE 5:
Cast on 8 new sts on needle (= band), pick up 75-80-87-97-108-117 sts along the other over side on square 1 = 83-88-95-105-116-125 sts. Work QUARTER DOMINO SQUARE - see explanation above. Remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last st on the Domino square. Slip the 8 band sts on a stitch holder.

SQUARE 6:
Pick up 75-80-87-97-108-117 sts along the other over side on square 2, cast on 8 new sts at the end of row (= band) = 83-88-95-105-116-125 sts. Work Quarter domino square. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last st on the Domino square. Slip the 8 band sts on a stitch holder.

SQUARE 7:
Pick up 85-90-97-107-118-127 sts along the other bottom edge on square 1, pick up 1 new st in each of the 8 sts from band = 93-98-105-115-126-135 sts. Work Quarter domino square. Bind off the last 9 sts.

SQUARE 8:
Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 sts in band, pick up 85-90-97-107-118-127 sts along the other bottom edge on square 2 = 93-98-105-115-126-135 sts. Work Quarter domino square. Bind off the last 9 sts.

SQUARE 9:
Cast on 53-58-62-69-76-83 new sts on needle. Work in garter st over these sts for 10 cm / 4’’, finish with 1 row from RS (= sleeve). Pick up 1 st from the top of square 2, 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from square 6, slip the 8 band sts back on needle = 115-125-133-147-161-175 sts. The first 8 sts (seen from WS) are band and are worked K on every row, work DOMINO SQUARE 2 over the last 107-117-125-139-153-167 sts. Continue with dec in DOMINO SQUARE 2, AT THE SAME TIME when 25-35-43-57-71-85 rows have been worked, dec 1 st inside 8 sts band towards mid front, K 2 tog from RS. Repeat dec mid front every 4th row 14 times in total, i.e. until band meets dec in Domino square. Bind off all sts in Domino square on a row from RS, continue in garter st over the 8 band sts for 12 cm / 4¾’’. Bind off.

SQUARE 10:
Cast on 53-58-62-69-76-83 new sts on needle. Work in garter st over these sts for 10 cm / 4’’, finish with 1 row from WS (= sleeve). Slip sts on a stitch holder.
Slip the 8 band sts back on needle, pick up 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from square 5, pick up 1 st from the top of square 1 and work the 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 115-125-133-147-161-175 sts. Continue to work over all sts (1st row = WS). Work Domino square 2 over the first 107-117-125-139-153-167 sts (seen from WS), the last 8 sts are band and are worked K on every row. Continue with dec in Domino square 2, AT THE SAME TIME when 25-35-43-57-71-85 rows have been worked, dec 1 st inside 8 sts band towards mid front, dec by K 2 tog from RS. Repeat dec mid front every 4th row 14 times in total, i.e. until band meets dec in Domino square. Bind off all sts in Domino square on a row from WS, continue in garter st over the 8 band sts for 12 cm / 4¾’’. Bind off.

SQUARE 11:
Cast on 53-58-62-69-76-83 new sts on needle. Work in garter st over these sts for 10 cm / 4’’, finish with 1 row from RS (= sleeve). Pick up 1 st from the top of square 1, 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from first half of square 3 = 107-117-125-139-153-167 sts. Work Domino square 2.

SQUARE 12:
Cast on 53-58-62-69-76-83 new sts on needle. Work in garter st over these sts for 10 cm / 4’’, finish with 1 row from WS (= sleeve). Slip sts on a stitch holder.
Pick up 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from last half of square 3, pick up 1 st from the top of square 2 and work the 53-58-62-69-76-83 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 107-117-125-139-153-167 sts. Continue to work over all sts (1st row = WS). Work Domino square 2.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog square 11 and 12 mid back. Sew sleeve/shoulder sleeves in to neck – neck on back piece should be approx. 12 cm / 4¾’’ wide, adjust according to front piece – so that shoulder seams on front and back piece fit. Sew the seams under the sleeve. Sew the band tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 151-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Doris Kubena Linder wrote:

Hej, 4 år senare förstår jag fortfarande inte mönstret! Kan man få prata med någon? Mönster 151-29 070-314 15 46.

03.05.2017 - 04:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Doris, jag kan se att vi har försökt att förklara tidigare. Du får bättre hjälp om du tar med din stickning till en DROPS butik om du har köpt garnet där. Titta även på videoen nederst i mönstret om hur man stickar domino! Lycka till!

03.05.2017 - 13:52

country flag Maryse wrote:

Bonjour, je n'ai pas compris quand changer de couleurs dans ce magnifique modèle .

27.05.2016 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maryse, on ne change pas de couleur en tricotant, c'est la laine qui comporte des changements de couleurs qui forment les rayures, vous trouverez le nuancier de Delight ici. Bon tricot!

30.05.2016 - 08:42

country flag Christine Poetsch wrote:

Ich habe diese Jacke in 2 Farben (safran,rost und marineblau) gestrickt und es ist ein absuluter Hingucker

22.06.2014 - 09:54

country flag Doris Kubena Linder wrote:

Jag fattar ingenting av mönstret. Kan jag få hjälp. Har stickat ruta 1, antar att jag nu ska göra ruta 3? där står sticka upp 97 m på översidan av ruta ett och 97 m längs översidan av ruta 2 som ska stickas efter ruta 9, jag har kört fast.

17.02.2014 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Doris. Du skal rigtig nok strikke ruta 3 som du strikker op fra 97 paa oversiden af ruta 1, 1 m mellem ruta 1 og 2 og 97 m fra oversiden af ruta 2 (se överste diagram A.1). 1 og 2 er de to hele dominorutar og nummer 3 er en HALV DOMINORUTA, du kan laese hvordan du skal strikke den överst ogsaa.

19.02.2014 - 14:56

country flag Gerda wrote:

Hallo Zusammen, habe das Modell nachgearbeitet- EINFACH SUPER!! Beachten sollte man jedoch unbedingt: Großes Probemuster stricken, da man danach erst beurteilen kann, welche Größe/Maschenzahl man stricken muss - danach unbedingt an die Musterangaben halten, sonst klappt es nicht.

31.01.2014 - 14:09

country flag Doris Kubena Linder wrote:

Ska inte Dominoruta 2 stickas lika som Dominoruta 1, med extra avmaskningar, tex var 16:e varv?

25.11.2013 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Ruta 1 och 2 stickas som DOMINORUTA-1 med extra avmaskningar.

27.11.2013 - 10:48

country flag Doris Kubena Linder wrote:

Undrar om mönster 151-29, ska inte dialogruta 2 stickas som ruta 1? Alltså med minskning med 4 m vart 18:e varv stl XL?

14.11.2013 - 07:22

DROPS Design answered:

RUTA 1 och 2 stickas enligt beskrivningen för DOMINORUTA-1 med extra minskning på varv 18. DOMINORUTA-2 stickar du först när du kommer till RUTA 9 i beskrivningen

15.11.2013 - 09:11

country flag Gerda wrote:

Super Modell, habe mir das Garn bestellt und kann kaum erwarten zu beginnen; ich hoffe, dass die Jacke nicht nur an schlanken Damen gut aussieht!

15.09.2013 - 13:33

Kerstin wrote:

Ha-ha, ich muß meine Augen untersuchen lassen! ;)

18.06.2013 - 17:04

country flag Sissel wrote:

Godt varmt plagg,i glade farger, må vel stemmes inn.. Kunne vært,til fordel m kort og, lang arm.

16.06.2013 - 12:56