DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Red Hot Chili Pepper

Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer in ”Snow” with false fisherman’s rib variation.

DROPS 150-34
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-468
Yarn group E
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NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 08, red

HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 54 - 58 cm
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
150-150 g colour no 08, red

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 14 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
FALSE FISHERMAN’S RIB:
Row 1 (WS): * P 1, K 2 *.
Row 2 (RS): * P 2, K 1 in st below *, repeat from * - *.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc from RS by working 1 YO after K sts. On next row (WS) K YO twisted (i.e work in back loop instead of front loop) to avoid holes. On next inc make YO before K sts so that inc are alternately on left and right side of P sections.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Cast on 42 sts on circular needle size 9 mm with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 2. Then work as follows from WS: K 2, FALSE FISHERMAN’S RIB - see explanation above, finish with P 1. On next row from RS work as follows: K 1, false fisherman’s rib, finish with P 2. Repeat 1st and 2nd row AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts (seen from RS) = 14 sts inc – read INCREASE TIP = 56 sts. Repeat inc of P sts when piece measures 14 cm = 70 sts. Then inc the same way every 3 cm 3 more times = 112 sts on needle. When piece measures 24 cm, loosely cast off.
Sew neck warmer tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts.

HAT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 44 sts on circular needle size 9 mm with Snow. Work rib = K 1/P 1. Work like this until piece measures 4 cm. On next row from RS inc 1 st in every P st (= 22 sts inc) = 66 sts. Then work as follows from WS: K 2, FALSE FISHERMAN’S RIB - see explanation above, finish with P 1. On next row from RS work as follows: K 1, false fisherman’s rib, finish with P 2. Repeat 1st and 2nd row until piece measures 17-19 cm. On next row from RS work as follows: K 1, * P 2 tog, K 1*, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with P 2 = 44 sts. Work 3 rows with K over K and P over P. K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 22 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts. Tighten tog and fasten. Sew hat tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Monika Jüngling wrote:

Vielen lieben Dank für die schnelle Antwort, wahrscheinlich hätte man mehr überlegen sollen. Klappt prima. Alles Gute und Gruß aus Berlin

19.09.2023 - 10:21

country flag Monika Jüngling wrote:

Hallo, können Sie bitte noch einmal so nett sein, es mir in deutsch zu beantworten, wenn ich dieses tolle Teil in Runden stricken möchte. herzlichen Dank Monika Jüngling

17.09.2023 - 13:24

country flag Monika Jüngling wrote:

Hallo, können Sie bitte noch einmal so nett sein, es mir in deutsch zu beantworten, wenn ich dieses tolle Teil in Runden stricken möchte. herzlichen Dank Monika Jüngling

17.09.2023 - 13:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jüngling, bei der 1. Runde stricken Sie dann (2 Maschen links, 1 Masche rechts) die ganze Runde, dann stricken Sie die 2. Runde wie bei der 2. Reihe und diese 2 Runden wiederholen Sie. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.09.2023 - 15:40

country flag Jacqueline Moore wrote:

Can this hat be knitted in the round on circular needles? I ask because I prefer not to have a seam.

08.12.2020 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moore, probably, you just have to cast on 2 sts less (= edge sts are not necessary when working in the round) and adjust pattern to be worked on every row from RS. Happy knitting!

09.12.2020 - 06:39

country flag Sanna Koskinen wrote:

I tryed to do this but I notice after trying that start needs to be reverse side. So when in the instruction says 1right "2wrong, 1right" this extent first layer needs to be 1wrong "2right, 1wrong" and second layer needs to be 1right "2wrong, false englsih rib"

17.09.2014 - 20:44

Renee wrote:

The increase tip states: On next row (WS) K YO twisted (ie work in the back of the loop instead of the front of the loop) to avoid holes. However, on the wrong side when one comes to the YO the stitch that should be knitted is a purl stitch (according to the pattern) not a knit stitch. So you need to purl into the back of the loop, do you not? I have no idea how to do this. Can you please clarify what is needed here.

08.02.2014 - 12:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renee, you inc in P sections seen from RS, from WS, these sts are K. Happy knitting!

10.02.2014 - 09:19

Renée wrote:

In your answer to my query you stated finish with P2 for the WS row. Did you mean you finish with P1? As this is what the pattern states for the WS row. Can you please clarify.

05.02.2014 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renée, you are correct, I'm sorry, WS row are worked starting with K2 and finishing with P1. Happy knitting!

05.02.2014 - 14:59

RHS wrote:

The pattern states: 'Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows AT THE SAME TIME...', but by this stage in the pattern 3 rows have been knitted. Can you tell me how you continue from this point. What are the 1st and 2nd rows that one needs to continue in/repeat. The pattern is rather unclear.

03.02.2014 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear RHS, you repeat row 1 (WS) and row 2 (RS) from "False english rib with double sts" until piece measures 12 cm for neckwarmer or 17-18 cm for hat. Happy knitting!

04.02.2014 - 09:03

Renee wrote:

I worked 1st (RS) and 2nd (WS) rows. Then pattern states: repeat 1st & 2nd rows. Do you continue knitting exactly as you did for the 1st & 2nd rows? Starting each RS row with K1 & then False English rib with double sts, finishing with P2? Then knit each WS row starting with K2 then False English rib & finishing with P1? Or do you just continue after the 1st and 2nd rows with the False English rib with double st pattern?

03.02.2014 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renee, from WS you start row with K2, then repeat from *-* from false english rib row 1 and finish with P2. From RS, you start with K1, repeat from *-* for row 2 in pattern, and finish with P2. Repeat these 2 rows this way. Happy knitting!

04.02.2014 - 09:02

Renée wrote:

Is this pattern a revised version of an older pattern, with pattern no. ee469? I prefer the hat in pattern ee469, but the neck warmer in this pattern, as it has a firmer around the neck. Do you think it would look odd to knit the hat from the older pattern and the neck warmer from this pattern? As slightly different stitches and needle sizes are used.

30.12.2013 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renée, ee-469 is another version of a set with this kind of pattern but different result. If you like to, you can use both patterns to make your own set. Just have a swatch and check how far you like it. Happy knitting!

30.12.2013 - 15:56