DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 150-20
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-257
Yarn group A
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 602, silver fox.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP (applies to heel):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st, work 1 st, psso.
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LEFT SOCK:
Cast on 56-60-64 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. K 2 rounds. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-*. When rib measures 4 cm, work as follows: Insert 1 marker in the 1st st and 1 marker in the 25th-29th-33rd st. Continue rib K 1, P 3, AT THE SAME TIME on every round dec 1 st after first marker and inc 1 st before second marker so that rib is displaced. Dec by slipping st with marker off needle, work 1 st, psso, and inc by making a YO before the second marker – work YO twisted on next round and work it in rib. Number of sts does not vary. Continue like this until piece measures 17-18-19 cm. Now work a loose strand over the last 31 sts on needle. Sts on each side of this strand are used for heel later. Then continue with rib over the 25-29-33 sts on top of foot, work the other sts in stocking st. Continue displacement as before but now work the inc sts in stocking st, no of sts in rib becomes less and no of sts in stocking st inc. Continue like this until piece measures 11-13-16 cm from the loose strand (= approx. 5 cm remain, now work all sts in stocking st). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 28-30-32 sts on top of foot and 28-30-32 sts under foot. Continue working stocking st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers. Dec as follows before 1 K st and marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker and 1 K st: K 2 twisted tog. Dec like this in each side on every other round a total of 7 times and then on every round a total of 3 times = 16-20-24 sts remain on needle. On next round work all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

HEEL:
Pull out the loose strand and distribute sts from each side of yarn on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = 62 sts. Beg in the side and work as follows: Work over 31 sts under heel, pick up 2 new sts in the side, work over the 31 sts on the back of heel and pick up 2 new sts in the side = 66 sts. Insert 1 marker between the 2 new sts in each side. Then work in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side on every other round a total of 10 times - READ DECREASE TIP! = 26 sts remain on needle. Work 1 round over all sts. Cast off. Sew tog heel with grafting/kitchener sts, st against st in cast-off edge.

RIGHT SOCK:
Cast on and work as left sock but when displacing rib, do as follows: Insert 1 marker in the 1st st and 1 marker in the 29th-33rd-37th st. Continue rib K 1, P 3, AT THE SAME TIME on every round inc 1 st after first marker and dec 1 st before second marker so that rib is displaced. Inc by making a YO after first marker, work YO twisted on next round and work in rib. Dec before second marker as follows: Work st with marker and st before K tog. Continue as left sock.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Susanna wrote:

Och angående höger socka måste ni väl mena att man ökar efter andra markören och minskar före första?? Alltså att baksidan av sockan är maska 2 t.o.m 32? Annars borde inte antalet maskor mellan markörerna skilja mellan höger och vänster.

08.03.2020 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, nej for da skal ribben dreje til den anden side. Du ser det når du når dertil :9

10.03.2020 - 10:20

country flag Susanna wrote:

Jag undrar samma som Anita; ska man verkligen minska/öka på varje varv!? Min socka blir väldigt korvig på ovansidan (inte snyggt!). Tror jag river upp och provar vartannat varv som Anita skriver.

08.03.2020 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanna, har du set videoen hvor vi viser ud- og indtagningerne:

How to knit the rib with displacement on the socks in DROPS 150-20 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

10.03.2020 - 10:14

country flag Anita wrote:

Då skulle jag vilja se en bild på hur sockarna blev när man ökar/minskar varje varv. Jag ökade/ minskade varannat varv och de blev likadana som de på bilden.

21.02.2019 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Sokkene på bildet er strikket med forskyvning hver omgang. Her er en video som viser nøyaktig hvordan det er strikket: . God fornøyelse

21.02.2019 - 13:41

country flag Anita wrote:

På bilden ser det ut som att man ökat/minskat på vartannat varv. Är det fel i beskrivningen?

16.02.2019 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Det skal forskyves på hver omgang, så det stemmer. God fornøyelse

21.02.2019 - 08:02

country flag Nel wrote:

Dag, Ik ben met de tweede sok begonnen en heb de instructies exact gevolgd. Maar nu begrijp ik niet over welke en hoeveel steken ik de losse draad moet breien. Doordat de markers nu in steek 1 en 33 zitten ipv in steek 1 en 29 klopt het voor mijn gevoel niet helemaal. Over welke steken moet de losse draad dan tov de markeerders? Alvast bedankt.

10.01.2019 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nel,

De rechter sok wordt precies hetzelfde gebreid als de linker sok, maar dan omgekeerd. Omdat je over de linker sok 29 steken overhield, na het plaatsen van de losse draad, brei je nu bij de rechter sok ook over 29 die 29 steken en je zet 31 steken op de draad. Als het goed is zijn dit de 31 steken die tussen steek 1 en steek 33 zitten.

11.01.2019 - 10:17

country flag Inger wrote:

Hei! Jeg holder på å strikke høyre sokk, og har kommet til der jeg skal strikke inn en løs tråd. Når jeg teller opp de siste 31 maskene får jeg med fire masker av vrangborden som forskyves. Er det riktig? På venstre sokk ble ingen av maskene som forskyves med i hælen.

22.07.2017 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Det er fordi forskyvningen strikkes speilvendt på den høyre sokk. God Fornøyelse!

07.08.2017 - 12:21

country flag Catherine wrote:

I believe there's an error in the placement of the markers for the right sock. They should be placed at 1st and 25th sts just like the left sock. The swirl pattern did come out reversed but just too many sts displaced. Several people inquired about this here and one person had trouble on Revelry as well. It warrants double checking and correction of the instruction for future use.

23.01.2016 - 22:13

country flag Catherine wrote:

I am half done with the second sock (right) and the socks turned out slightly different. The right sock displaces more stitches leaving 27 stitches remaining as non-displaced stitches for all 3 sizes. The left sock displaces less, leaving 31 non-displaced stitches. The foot pattern does not work for right sock because 29-33-37 stitches were displaced, not 25-29-33. Shouldn't I work a loose strand over the last 27 stitches so as not to disrupt the pattern? Is there an error in the pattern?

21.01.2016 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, displacement is reversed on right sock - but has to be worked every round as for left sock. Happy knitting!

21.01.2016 - 11:05

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi there, Is there a video tutorial on the closure of the heel instruction- "Work 1 round over all sts. Bind off. Sew tog heel with grafting/kitchener sts, st against st in bind-off edge." I only know grafting on live stitches still on the needles. The instruction indicates grafting on bind-off edge. Is it the same as live stitches, just imagine doing the same but on stitches that are already bound off? Am I misunderstanding the instruction? Please advise. Thank you.

02.01.2016 - 05:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, you can use the technique for shoulder to sew toe tog. Happy knitting!

02.01.2016 - 16:21

country flag Wiedemann wrote:

Est ce une erreur de traduction mais cela fait 5 fois que je recommence le décalage sans obtenir l'effet de photo .Je n'ai pas de problème au décalage mais je n'arrive pas à obtenir que ma maille endroit soit en relief .Il me semble que pour obtenir ce résultat, je devrais croiser la maille avec la précédente et en ne faisant le décalage qu'un tour sur 2(ou 3) ?Qu'en pensez vous

06.11.2015 - 14:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Wiedemann, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment faire le décalage et devrait vous aider à réaliser ce modèle. Bon tricot!

06.11.2015 - 14:20