DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Amari

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern in ”Alpaca Bouclé”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-36
DROPS design: Pattern no ab-041
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
400-450-500 g colour no 5110, light grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 10 mm – or size needed to get 11 sts in stocking st = 10 cm in width (1 repetition of A.1 = approx. 5 cm vertically).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST:
Back and forth: K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows the pattern seen from RS (knit all sts that does not go in pattern on 3rd and 7th row).
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PONCHO:
Work sideways back and forth from sleeve to mid front/mid back. There are 4 equally large parts (2 x back piece, 2 x front piece) that are sewn tog when finished.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st (= top of poncho), 57-61-65 sts in stocking st, 4 edge sts in garter st (= bottom of poncho). Continue working in stocking st with 4 sts in garter st at the bottom and 1 st in garter st at the top. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 60-61-61 cm, cast off for neck as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Cast off 1st st on row, K the rest of row = 61-65-69 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3: Cast off the first 2 sts on row, continue working chart A.1 (beg with 1st row = K all sts) - and K the rest of row = 59-63-67 sts.
Row 4: Work 2nd row in A.1 - i.e. K all sts.
Continue A.1 until it has been worked 1 time vertically. Then work 1-2-4 ridges in garter st (= 2-4-8 rows K), LOOSELY cast off on next row from RS. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE CAST-OFF EDGE IS NOT TOO TIGHT. Piece measures approx. 68-69-70 cm measured in knitting direction.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Work next row from RS as follows: 4 edge sts in garter st (= bottom of poncho), 57-61-65 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st (= top of poncho). Continue working in stocking st with 4 sts in garter st at the bottom and 1 st in garter st at the top. When piece measures 60-61-61 cm, continue as on right back piece. Cast off for neck the same way but reversed - i.e. cast off for neck at beg of row from WS.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm. Work 2 rows in garter st. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st (= top of poncho), 57-61-65 sts in stocking st, 4 edge sts in garter st (= bottom of poncho). Continue working in stocking st with 4 sts in garter st at the bottom and 1 st in garter st at the top. When piece measures 60-61-61 cm, cast off for neck as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Cast off 1st st on row, K the rest of row = 61-65-69 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3: Cast off the first 2 sts on row, continue working chart A.1 (beg with 1st row = K all sts) - and K the rest of row = 59-63-67 sts.
Row 4: Work 2nd row in A.1 - i.e. K all sts.
Continue with A.1 until it has been worked 1 time vertically - AT THE SAME TIME continue cast off for neck at beg of every row from RS as follows: Cast off 4 sts 3 times in total = 47-51-55 sts remain on row. Then work 1-2-4 ridges in garter st (= 2-4-8 rows K), LOOSELY cast off on next row from RS. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE CAST-OFF EDGE IS NOT TOO TIGHT. Piece measures approx. 68-69-70 cm measured in knitting direction.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm. Work 2 rows in garter st. Work next row from RS as follows: 4 edge sts in garter st (= bottom of poncho), 57-61-65 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st (= top of poncho). Continue working in stocking st with 4 sts in garter st at the bottom and 1 st in garter st at the top. When piece measures 60-61-61 cm, continue as on left front piece. Cast off for neck the same way but reversed - i.e. cast off for neck at beg of row from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right and left back piece tog in outermost st on cast-off edges (= mid back). Sew right and left front piece tog the same way. Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams in each side (= cast-on edges) as follows: Beg from bottom edge on body, sew until 14-15-16 cm remain. The remaining opening is armhole.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Pick up approx. 30-32-34 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm along the entire armhole in one side, beg under sleeve and work back and forth. On next row K while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts evenly = 32-34-36 sts. Work in garter st back and forth until sleeve edge measures approx. 3-3-3 cm, LOOSELY cast off on next row from RS. Sew short sides tog under sleeve in front loop of outermost sts. Repeat the same way along armhole in the other side.

COLLAR:
Worked back and forth from mid back. Pick up approx. 70-74-74 sts with Alpaca Bouclé on circular needle size 10 mm along the entire neck edge. On next row P - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 72-76-76. Then work A.1 (beg with 1st row in pattern) 1 time vertically.
On next row (= 1st row in A.1) inc 4 sts evenly on round = 76-80-80 sts. Repeat inc with 4 sts evenly on 1st row in A.1 2 more times (3 inc in total = 12 inc sts) = 84-88-88 sts on row. Continue with A.1 until collar measures approx. 24 cm (finish after 4th or 8th row in pattern). Work 1 ridge in garter st, LOOSELY cast off all sts. Sew collar tog mid back in front loop of outermost sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = yo between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Jane K.lunde wrote:

Hei, har begynt å strikkke denne ponchoen, men skjønner ikkje av oppskriften på kor mønster A1kommer inn. Det er ikkje forklart.....

20.03.2014 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jane Det strikkes efter diagram A.1 till sist på hver del. Det er hullmönstret som kommer mitt frem og mitt bak på ponchoen. Om du ser der det er forklart hur du feller till hals så står det på 4.p at du ska strikke efter diagram A.1.

27.03.2014 - 22:34

country flag Pierre wrote:

Bonjour,pour ce superbe poncho l'encolure du dos est la même que celle du devant? 51 mailles à la fin? Merci pour votre aide

17.03.2014 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pierre, chaque pièce se tricote à partir de "l'extérieur" vers le milieu devant/dos. On rabat moins de mailles pour l'encolure dos que pour l'encolure devant qui sera plus échancrée. Bon tricot!

17.03.2014 - 11:52

country flag Milli wrote:

Hej! Är det verkligen Alpaca Bouclé som använts till ponchon på bilden eller är det bara jag som får den fel? Min poncho ser inte alls ut som den på bilden. Den blir dessutom väldigt gles även fast jag stickar efter rätt maskfasthet. Tacksam för svar!

28.02.2014 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Milli. Ja, det er helt sikkert Alpaca Bouclé paa billedet.

03.03.2014 - 14:26

country flag Lina López wrote:

Hola: Quiero hacerme este modelo, pero tengo una duda, en el patrón dice que se utilice una aguja circular de 10mm y en las características de la lana dice que se utilice aguja de 5mm. ¿Me podéis ayudar?. Gracias

09.01.2014 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lina. En este caso usamos agujas de 10 mm para que la prenda quede más ligera.

13.01.2014 - 09:36

country flag Paulien Wopereis wrote:

Hoe kan ik de voorkanten breien? Achterpanden al gebreid.

26.12.2013 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Paulien. Dat staat in het patroon onder LINKERVOORPAND en RECHTERVOORPAND. Veel breiplezier verder.

28.12.2013 - 18:16

country flag Paquotte wrote:

Bonjour, la laine est elle tricoté en double ? vous demandez 2 sortes de laine ? merci

27.10.2013 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Paquotte, Le poncho est tricoté avec 1 fil DROPS Alpaca Bouclé, sur la base de 11 m jersey = 10 cm de large. Bon tricot!

29.10.2013 - 10:26

country flag Nina wrote:

Syns denne er knallfin! Men så noen skrev den er strikket i for tykt garn så den siger og blir for stor. Syns ikke garnet er tykt jeg??????

29.08.2013 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina. Det er vigtigt at have den korrekte strikkefasthed. Strikker man for löst kan den gaa hen og blive for stor. Derfor strik altid en pröve og brug den pind du skal ha' for den rette strikkefasthed - da kan det ikke gaa galt ;-)

11.09.2013 - 15:38

country flag Esperanza wrote:

Me gustaria saber a que talla corresponde la xxxl , yo tengo la 60 , muchas gracias por los tutoriales

23.08.2013 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Esperanza. La talla correcta es mejor calcularla por el contorno de pecho que viene casi siempre en el diagrama debajo del patrón. En este modelo amplio la talla XXXL creo que te tiene que valer.

24.08.2013 - 10:22

country flag Joan wrote:

Thank you for the correction. Sorry for the multiple posts, sometime my computer does that! I am glad I can knit better than I can work on the computer.

19.08.2013 - 16:45

country flag Joan Shirikian wrote:

Why do the back pieces start with 2 ridges (4 rows of garter stitches) while the front pieces only start with 2 rows of garter stitches? This will make the sleeve area look odd.

09.08.2013 - 03:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shirikian, pattern has been edited so that both front pieces start as back piece, ie with 2 ridges. Thank you. Happy knitting!

12.08.2013 - 14:38