DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Miss Marple

Knitted DROPS head band and shoulder piece with leaf pattern in ”Nepal”.

DROPS 149-41
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-126
Yarn group C
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HEAD BAND:
Size: one-size
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 4311, gray/purple

SHOULDER PIECE:
Size: One-size
Circumference at the top: 35 cm / 13 3/4’’
Circumference at the bottom: 140 cm / 55’’
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
350 g color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24’’) SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 535: 4 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

PATTERN HEAD BAND:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS.

PATTERN SHOULDER PIECE:
See diagrams A.4 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS.

RIDGE PATTERN (back and forth on needle):
Row 1: K from RS.
Row 2: P from WS.
Row 3: K from RS.
Row 4: K from WS.

SHORT ROWS:
Work short rows as follows:
* Work 1 row over A.4, turn and work back. Work 1 row over A.4 + K 2 + 12 sts ridge pattern, turn and work back. Work 1 row over A.4 + K 2 + 12 sts ridge pattern + K 2 + A.5 + K 2 + 6 sts ridge pattern, turn and work back. Work 1 row over all sts, turn and work back *. Repeat from *-*, i.e. 8 rows at the widest and 2 rows at the most narrow in 1 repetition.
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HEAD BAND:
Cast on 23 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - for 3 cm / 1’’. Then work according to A.1.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue according to A.2.
When piece measures approx. 46 cm / 18’’, stop after one whole repetitions of A.2, work according to A.3. Work A.3 1 time vertically, then work in garter st for 3 cm / 1’’, or desired measurements.
Bind off. Sew together cast on and bind off edges with neat sts.
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SHOULDER PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 67 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work 5 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above.
Then work pattern as follows: A.4, 2 sts in stockinette st, ridge pattern over the next 12 sts, 2 sts in stockinette st, A.5, 2 sts in stockinette st, 6 sts ridge pattern, 18 sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above. Work short rows until neck measures 35 cm / 13 3/4’’ in the shorter side (or to desired measurements), stop after one whole repetition over A.4.
Work 3 ridges in garter st, on next row from RS dec for buttonholes as follows: Work 16 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO, * work 13 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 3 times, finish with 4 sts K. Continue in garter st until 5 ridges have been worked in total, bind off.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.11.2016
Correction symbol text no. 6: 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO twisted

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row P YO
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO twisted
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = inc by working 2 sts in 1 st
symbols = bind off 1 st
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Beverley Mcalister wrote:

The answer from my last question I feel was not answered. 1 repetition has 8 rows So if I knit row 1-8, I then repeat this again to get to upto row 16. A4 has 20 rows So what do I knot from row 17 to row 20 to complete the chart A4?

16.08.2021 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beverly, A.4 will have to be worked on every row, this means you work the first 20 rows will be worked following the 20 rows in A.4 (but you will sometimes work only A.4, sometimes more stitches). Sorry If your question is misunderstood, would it be possible to try rewording it? Thanks for your comprehension.

16.08.2021 - 09:04

country flag Beverley wrote:

Next question. If 1 repetition is 8 rows (2 rows at narrowest), on row 9 do you start the repetition again until row 16, if so, what happens to next 4 rows from row 17 to row 20 to complete A4?

15.08.2021 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beverley, when working the short rows, you will work the stitches in A.4 just as shown in the diagram (= every row is worked with A.4 at the beg of row from RS/end of row from WS), then work the ridge pattern after A.4 as frollwos: row 1-4 ridge pattern on row 3 to 6, then work row 1-2 ridge pattern on row 7-8 short rows; then row 3-4 ridge pattern on row 3-4 next repeat short rows, etc... Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

16.08.2021 - 08:29

country flag Beverley wrote:

Just to clarify my question, there are 8 rows to a pattern but the 1st two rows don’t contain and ridge stitches. On row 3 to 8 these have ridge stitches ( total of 6 rows) but the pattern for ridge stitches has 4 rows ). What pattern of ridge stitch do I knit on row 7 and 8 of the main pattern?

15.08.2021 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beverly, you just have to always repeat the 4 rows in the ridge pattern, this means you will always repeat these 4 rows over the first 12 sts ridge pattern (after A.4) and repeat the 4 rows ridge pattern after A.5 (see previous answer). Happy knitting!

16.08.2021 - 08:25

country flag Beverley wrote:

Hi, I understand the principles of how to knit this by knitting as instructions then turn to go back then kip it the next row plus a few more of the pattern and so on. What I don’t understand is on row 5 out of 8 when you start A5 for the first time and which row of the 4 ridge stiches rows that constructed the 6 ridge stitches? Is it the same row as the 12?

15.08.2021 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beverley, you will work the stitches in A.5 just when you will work row 5 to 8, ie the first time you work row 5, work row 1 in A.5, then work on row 6 to 8, you will work row 2 to 4. Next time you will work row 5 -8 in short rows, you will then work row 5 to 8 in A.5 etc. The 6 sts ridge pattern are worked then repeating the 4 rows the same way, ie when working row 5-8 short rows, work row 1 to 4 ridge pattern. Happy knitting!

16.08.2021 - 08:19

country flag Sally wrote:

When working the short rows, when it says "Work 1row over all stitches" does "all stitches" mean all the stitches worked so far or all the stitches cast on?

23.03.2019 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, when working the short rows, "work 1 row over all stitches" means to work all stitches on left needle = the onen previously worked with the short rows as well as the other ones. Happy knitting!

25.03.2019 - 10:36

country flag Deb wrote:

Are the charts to be read from left to right or right to left? Thank you.

21.11.2018 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Deb, The charts are read from bottom right to left on first row. If you are working back and forth the next row is read from left to right, if you are working in the round continue the next row from right to left. Happy knitting!

22.11.2018 - 07:46

country flag Kate Gomes wrote:

Is this garment knitted from the top down?

15.10.2018 - 21:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gomes, the cape is worked sideways with short rows. Happy knitting!

16.10.2018 - 09:10

country flag Torunn Riise-Larsen wrote:

Og hva skal stikkes når det står: "strikk 1 p over a4, snu og strikk tilbake. Men hva slags masker skal man bruke? Synes ikke det er så lett å forstå oppskriften deres...

02.10.2018 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torunn. Vendinger er det samme som forkortede pinner: altså på hver pinne fra retten strikker du over fler masker enn forrige pinne. Du skal strikke dette samtidig som du strikker mønster etter diagram - så når det står snu og strikk tilbake følger du anvisningene i diagrammet som vanlig. Altså første gang strikker du en omgang A.4, snur og strikker neste omgang A.4 tilbake. Så snur du arbeidet igjen og strikker neste omgang A.4 og strikker videre 2 masker rett og 12 masker åpne rille. Så snur du og strikker tilbake osv. Dette gjentar du til halsen måler 35 cm i den korteste siden. God fornøyelse.

03.10.2018 - 14:19

country flag Torunn Riise-Larsen wrote:

Ang. vendinger. Skal det gjøres etter at hele A4, dvs 20 pinner, er strikket. Eller etter hver pinne av a4?

02.10.2018 - 15:52

country flag Patricia wrote:

Pourriez vous mettre une vidéo pour le commencement du diagramme A4 svp merci ?

18.11.2016 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, votre demande a été enregistrée, mais en attendant la vidéo, lisez le diagramme en commençant en bas à droite sur l'endroit de droite à gauche et de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Retrouvez sous la légende la signification de chaque symbole. Bon tricot!

18.11.2016 - 17:43