DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Forget-Me-Not

Crochet DROPS jacket with raglan and lace pattern worked top down in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 149-19
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-048
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 colour no 6235, grey blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr in width x 10 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repetition A.2 over 10 sts measures approx. 3½ cm in width.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch, finish row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same st.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Work 1 dc/tr but wait with last YO and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc/tr but on last pull through, pull YO through all sts on hook = 1 dc/tr dec.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Work 1 dc but wait with last YO and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc but wait with last YO and pull through (= 3 sts on hook), work next dc but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 sts dec).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 166-166-176-176-187-187 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work first row as follows from WS: Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 0-0-2-2-1-1 ch remains and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 0-0-2-2-1-1 ch = 124-124-132-132-140-140 dc (incl 4 dc in each side towards mid front for band).
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 18-18-20-20-22-22 dc, work A.1 over the next 5 sts (i.e. 1 tr in first dc, skip 1 dc, 1 ch, 5 tr in next dc, skip 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 tr in next dc), work 1 tr in each of the next 18 dc (= sleeve), A.1 over the next 5 dc, 1 tr in each of the next 30-30-34-34-38-38 dc (= back piece), A.1 over the next 5 dc, 1 tr in each of the next 18 dc (= sleeve), A.1 over the next 5 sts and 1 tr in each of the last 19-19-21-21-23-23 dc, turn piece.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING AND REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue back and forth with tr and A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves. AT THE SAME TIME on next row (= WS) beg inc for raglan and inc as follows – NOTE: The inc on body and sleeves are uneven:

RAGLAN INC ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Inc 2 tr before/after A.1 on front and back piece by working 2 tr in each of the last 2 tr before/after A.1 on front and back piece.
Repeat inc with 2 tr on every row 1-5-6-11-14-20 more times (= 2-6-7-12-15-21 times in total).
Then inc 1 tr before/after A.1 by working 2 tr in last tr before/after A.1 on front and back piece. Repeat inc with 1 tr on every row 19-16-16-12-10-5 more times (= 20-17-17-13-11-6 times in total).

RAGLAN INC ON SLEEVES:
Inc 2 tr before/after A.1 in each side on sleeves by working 2 tr in each of the last 2 tr before/after A.1 on sleeves.
Repeat inc with 2 tr on every row 13-14-15-16-18-19 more times (= 14-15-16-17-19-20 times in total).
Then inc 1 tr before/after A.1 by working 2 tr in last tr before/after A.1 on sleeves. Repeat inc with 1 tr on every row 7-7-7-7-6-6 more times (= 8-8-8-8-7-7 times in total).

TRANSITION FROM A.1 TO TR:
AT THE SAME TIME on last row with inc work 5 tr over A.1 instead of A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves.

After last inc, there are 364-392-416-448-484-520 tr on row.
Work next row as follows from RS (if next row is worked from WS, cut the yarn and beg from RS): Work 1 tr in each of the first 46-51-55-61-67-74 tr (= left front piece), skip the next 94-98-102-106-112-116 tr (= sleeve), work 12 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 84-94-102-114-126-140 tr (= back piece), skip the next 94-98-102-106-112-116 tr (= sleeve), work 12 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 46-51-55-61-67-74 tr = 200-220-236-260-284-312 sts on row.
Then finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker on row – now measure piece from here.
Work first row as follows from WS: 3 ch (= 1 tr), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr (= band), work 1 tr in every tr and 12 tr in ch-space under each sleeve until 4 tr remain on row AT THE SAME TIME inc 49-49-63-69-75-77 tr evenly over these sts, finish with 1 tr in each of the last 4 tr (= band) = 249-269-299-329-359-389 tr on row.
On next row from RS, work pattern according to diagram A.2 with 4 tr in each side for band, i.e. work 1st row as follows:
3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the first 3 tr (= band), 1 tr in next tr, * ch 1, skip 4 tr, 7 tr in next tr, ch 1, skip 4 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* 24-26-29-32-35-38 times in total and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 4 tr on row.
Continue pattern like this according to diagram A.2 (repeat rows 2-5 in diagram).
When piece measures approx. 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm from marker – finish after 3rd or 5th row in pattern, cut the yarn (piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down).

SLEEVE:
= 94-98-102-106-112-116 tr. Worked back and forth.
Insert 1 marker on row – now measure piece from here.
Work first row as follows from WS: Work 6 loose ch, work 1 tr in every tr on sleeve and finish row with 8 ch, turn piece. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, 1 tr in every tr from previous row and 1 tr in each of the 6 ch from beg of previous row = 106-110-114-118-124-128 tr on row. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 6-8-5-7-5-7 tr, insert 1 marker, work pattern according to diagram A.2 over the next 91-91-101-101-111-111 sts, insert 1 marker and continue with 1 tr in each of the last 8-10-7-9-7-9 tr (1st row in A.2 has now been worked). Move the markers downwards when working.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue pattern like this back and forth AT THE SAME TIME work pattern between the 2 markers on the next rows as shown in A.3 (beg on 2nd row in diagram), i.e. replace 1 repetition of A.2 in each side between markers with tr (these tr are in addition to tr outside the markers. Use the markers to help with correct no of sts).
AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row in A.2/A.3 dec 2 tr in each side by working the first 4 tr on row tog 2 by 2 and the last 4 tr on row tog 2 by 2 – READ DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec with 2 tr in each side on every row 3-5-3-6-4-6 more times (= 4-6-4-7-5-7 times in total). Then dec 1 tr in each side every 2nd-2nd-3rd-5th-4th-6th row a total of 8-6-7-3-5-3 times. After last dec there is 1 tr on one side of A.2 and 2 tr on the other side of A.2 (A.2 is over the middle 71-71-81-81-91-91 sts).
Continue A.2 back and forth with 1 and 2 tr in each side until sleeve measures approx. 39-39-38-38-37-37 cm from marker (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder and longer sleeve cap). Approx. 5 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on for correct sleeve length.
Then work tr back and forth over all sts – NOTE: Over sts in A.2 there should be 53-53-61-61-67-67 tr = 56-56-64-64-70-70 tr on row. When edge with tr measures 5 cm and sleeve measures approx. 44-44-43-43-42-42 cm from armhole, cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons (button between tr on band).

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
To make the neckline higher in the back of neck work an elevation as follows: Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neckline, i.e. at beg of every raglan line. Work on hook size 3.5 mm as follows: Beg in 1st st from mid front at the edge of band and work 1 dc in every dc around the neck until 10 dc remain on row, but work 1 st before every marker as follows: 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in next st (move marker to this st) and 1 htr in next st.
Turn, work 1 dc in every st until 10 sts remain in the other side, but over the 3 sts in every corner (i.e. st with marker + 1 st on each side of this), work 3 dc tog – READ DECREASE TIP 2. Turn and work until 18 dc remain on row, turn and work until 18 dc remain on row in the other side. Continue back and forth like this with dc and dec in every corner until edge measures approx. 2 cm at the widest mid back, then work 1 row over all sts with 1 dc in every dc. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.02.2014
YOKE (1 ch was missing 2 places inside parenthesis):...
18-18-20-20-22-22 dc, work A.1 over the next 5 sts (i.e. 1 tr in first dc, skip 1 dc, 1 ch, 5 tr in next dc, skip 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 tr in next dc), work 1 tr in each of the next 18 dc (= sleeve),...

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Ourd59 wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse Une dernière question sur la rehausse Faut il continuer à faire des rangs raccourcis de 18 mailles Jusqu’à obtenir 2 cm Merci

11.10.2021 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ourd59, tout à fait, continuer ainsi: en diminuant à chaque "coin" de chaque raglan et en laissant 18 ms non travaillées à la fin de chaque rang de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que cette partie mesure 2 cm au milieu dos, terminez par 1 rang de mailles serrées tout le long de l'encolure. Bon crochet!

12.10.2021 - 08:47

country flag Ourd59 wrote:

Bonjour , J’ai du mal à comprendre la rehausse du dos Pourriez m’indiquer ce que vous appelez le début du raglan ? Merci

09.10.2021 - 01:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ourd59, le début de chaque raglan correspond à la maille centrale de A.1 (qui forme le début d'où partent la ligne de chacun des raglans). Placez un marqueur dans cette maille et crochetez 3 m ens à l'endroit ainsi: la maille avant le marqueur + la maille avec le marqueur + la maille après le marqueur. Bon crochet!

11.10.2021 - 07:08

country flag Ourd59 wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas pour le 1 er rang prendre sur l’envers Faut il crocheter la chaînette sur l’envers ou considérer que le 1 er rang est un rang envers ? Merci

07.10.2021 - 04:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ourd59, le tout premier rang de mailles serrées est effectivement un rang sur l'envers. Le rang suivant (= le 1er rang de brides et le 1er rang des diagrammes) se crochète sur l'endroit. Bon crochet!

07.10.2021 - 08:41

country flag Marta wrote:

Hola! tengo un problema con la tension del patron. He usado aguja de 3,5mm y me sale una muestra de 12cm de ancho por 10 de alto y usando una de 3mm me sale una muestra de 10cm de ancho por 8cm de alto. Mi talla seria la S y no se muy bien como podria adaptarlo. Muchas gracias por su respuesta.

20.06.2019 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Marta. Lo importante es la tensión en horizontal para poder trabajar el patrón sin tener que recalcular. Si te sale la muestra con ganchillo de 3 mm 22 puntos=10 cm, es la tensión correcta. Para alcanzar las medidas necesarias vas a tener que trabajar algunas filas extra en vertical.

20.06.2019 - 22:30

country flag Gail wrote:

On sleeve, I have decreased to the point of having 81A.2 pattern stitches in the middle of the sleeve, but have 6 dc on one side and 7 dc on other, not1 dc on one side and 2 dc on other. I decrease 4dc on each side for 7, then 1dc every 5th row times 3. Advise.

13.01.2019 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gail, in 4th size you start with 1 dc, 7 dc, A.2 (=101 sts), 9 dc. You will work by and 10 sts in A.2 in dc (see M.3) so that you will have 1dc+7 dc + 10 dc (from A.2 as in A.3) before the 81 sts in A.2 and 10 dc (from A.2 as in A.3)+9 dc. YOu will dec 2 sts 7 times and 1 st 3 times = 17 sts are dec on each side. Before the 81 sts: 18 sts - 17 sts= 1 dc remain, after the 81 sts: 19 sts - 17 sts = 2 dc remain. Happy crocheting!

14.01.2019 - 12:28

Ivana wrote:

Hello! Why make 3 ch at the beginning of a row? Since it is dc, it is better to do 2 ch instead of 3 ch. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't see buttonholes in the pattern. Are they just a decoration or I'm missing something during reading pattern? Thanks for your help!

17.05.2018 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hello, Ivana! 3 ch at the beginning: it is adequate to 1 tr (brittish eng, 1 dc in US terminology!), 2 ch we use when crochet 1 dc (brittish eng, 1 sc in US). Butthonholes: instead of buttonholes we use space between trebles on band. Happy crocheting! Hana

17.05.2018 - 12:52

Ivana wrote:

Hello! One question. When doing raglan there is a total of four A.1. pattern repeating. If you inc 2 dc before/after A.1 on front and back piece by working 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc before/after A.1 on front and back then you have inc in ALL OF THE FOUR A.1. pattern. In that case, there are no A.1. left for raglan inc for sleeves... Could you please explain this part of the pattern? Thank you very much for your help!

17.05.2018 - 09:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ivana, you will increase by working 2/1 dc in the 2/1 dc before/after A.1 and work A.1 as before => the number of dc will increase by 2 /1 (front pieces) by 4/2 (back pieces and sleeves). A.1 is the raglan line and should be worked over the same sts vertically. Happy crocheting!

17.05.2018 - 13:21

Monica wrote:

Hello, I've started this today, but I have a question. Why in the 1st row I have to skip 1 chain every 3 sc? Is this because the base chain will be more elastic? Because I usually use Single Crochet Base Chain to start (and this is very elastic), so I think I don't need to skip base chain. Thank you

17.04.2018 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, usually when you crochet the fundation chain, it's more tighten that the first row should be, that's the reason why you have then to chain more chains and skip chains evenly on first row. If your fundation row is not that tight, make sure to cast on the number of sc requested for your size, making sure it's elastic enough. Happy crocheting!

17.04.2018 - 11:06

country flag Le Gal Valerie wrote:

Je ne trouve pas 448 mailles a la fin des augmentations et je ne comprend pas pourquoi meme après avoir recommmencer 3 fois. Pourriez-vous m'aider?

27.03.2018 - 21:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Gal, en taille XL on augmente pour le dos et les devants: 8 m (4 sur le dos et 2 sur chaque devant) x 12 puis 4 m (2 sur le dos et 2 sur chaque devant) x 13 soit 148 m au total - pour les manches, on augmente 8 m (4 sur chaque manche) x 17 puis 4 m (2 sur chaque manche) x 8 soit 168 m au total, soit 132 ms + 148+168= 448 m. Bon crochet!

28.03.2018 - 15:29

country flag Marjolein wrote:

Hallo, hoeveel stokjes moet ik nu vervangen bij de derde regel na LEES ALLE ONDERSTAANDE AANWIJZINGEN.. bij de mouw? Ik haak het vest met 98 steken op de mouw, de tweede maat. Een keer patroon A2 vervangen door stokjes is volgens mij dan 10 of 11 stokjes, maar op teltekening zijn het er minder. Moet dit aan beide zijden van de mouw een heel patroon vervangen, of aan beide zijden een half patroon A2? Ik zou het vest zo graag afmaken, maar loop hier op vast..

13.11.2016 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marjolein. Je hebt: 3 l (= 1 stk), 1 stk in elk van de volgende 8 stk, plaats 1 markeerder, haak in patroon volgens telpatroon A.2 over de volgende 91 st, plaats 1 markeerder en ga verder met 1 stk in elk van de laatste 10 stk (1e toer in A.2 is nu klaar)). Ik zou het dan zo haken. Je begint met tweede toer A.3 (7 stk, 1 l, (markeerder), en ga door met A.2 tweede toer in 11e stk en herhaal A.2 tot einde van de toer (10 stk over (je eindigt met 1 stk/2 l/1 stk), markeerder en 1 l, en 7 stk in de laatste 7 stk (A.3).

17.11.2016 - 15:14