DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% vlna
Výroba ukončena
najít náhradu
DROPS 151-23
DROPS design: model č. db-028
Skupina přízí: C
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Velikost: S - M - L
Délka před zplstěním: 36-39-43 cm
Délka po zplstění: 28-30-33 cm
Délka od klínu palce před zplstěním: 15-16-18 cm
Délka od klínu palce po zplstění: 11-12-13 cm

Materiál: DROPS BIG DELIGHT firmy Garnstudio
200-200-200 g, barva č. 02, letní louka

DROPS JEHLICE a PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.5,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 16 ok x 20 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm před zplstěním. Po zplstění: asi 20 ok x 27 řad = 10 x 10 cm.

DOPLŇKY: igelitový sáček a 2 zavírací špendlíky (na plstění).

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DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% vlna
Výroba ukončena
najít náhradu

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Platí do 12.04.2024

Návod

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Přidáváme rozpletením 1 oka na 2.
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RUKAVICE:
Pleteme v řadách lícovým žerzejem.
Na jehlice č. 5,5 nahodíme přízí Big Delight 52-52-56 ok. Ve výši 8 cm ujmeme rovnoměrně 8 ok = 44-44-48 ok. Ve výši 15-16-17 cm si označíme 22.-22.-24. oko v řadě (= palec). Pak přidáme 1 oko na každé straně označeného oka a toto přidávání opakujeme v každé 2. řadě – přidáváme vždy na vnější straně už přidaných ok (mezi přidáními vzniká klín) – celkem 6-7-8x – viz TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ = 56-58-64 ok. Po posledním přidání odložíme přidaná oka + označené oko + 1 oko na každé straně těchto ok (klínu) na pomocnou jehlici = 15-17-19 ok palce. V další řadě nahodíme za odloženými oky 3 oka nová = 44-44-48 ok. Díl měří asi 21-23-25 cm. Pokračujeme v řadách lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši asi 34-37-41 cm spleteme každá 2 oka hladce = 22-22-24 ok. Ve výši asi 36-39-43 cm opět spleteme každá 2 oka hladce = v řadě zbývá 11-11-12 ok. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.

PALEC:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích lícovým žerzejem.
Odložených 15-17-19 ok palce vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na ponožkové jehlice č. 5,5 a navíc k nim nabereme 5 nových ok z okraje za nimi (tj. ze 3 přidaných ok na dlani) = 20-22-24 ok. Když je palec vysoký asi 6-6-6,5 cm od klínu, ujmeme rovnoměrně 4-4-6 ok (ujímáme spletením 2 ok hladce) = 16-18-18 ok. Upleteme 2 kruhové řady. V následující kruhové řadě ujmeme rovnoměrně 4 oka = 12-14-14 ok. Ve výši asi 8,5-8,5-9 cm spleteme každá 2 oka hladce = 6-7-7 ok. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme. Palec je vysoký asi 9-9-9,5 cm.

DOKONČENÍ:
Rukavici na boku sešijeme.

Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhou rukavici.

PLSTĚNÍ:
Upletenou rukavici převrátíme rubem ven a do palce vložíme igelitový sáček, aby se nezplstil dohromady. Sáček přichytíme pomocí zavíracího špendlíku – POZN.: špendlík zapíchneme svisle směrem ke špičce palce, abychom jej mohli po zplstění rukavice snadno odstranit. Rukavici opět převrátíme lícem ven.
Rukavice vložíme do pračky. Teplotu nastavíme na 40 stupňů, přidáme prací prášek bez enzymů a bělidel a pereme běžným programem vč. odstředění, nepředepíráme. Po vyprání vytvarujeme mokrou rukavici do požadovaného tvaru a necháme uschnout. Při opakovaném praní pereme programem pro jemné/vlněné prádlo.

PO ZPLSTĚNÍ:
Pokud se výrobek dostatečně nezplstil (tj. nesrazil) hned napoprvé a je stále moc velký, vyperte jej v pračce ještě jednou. Pro zesílení účinku můžete přidat froté ručník (cca 50 x 70 cm), který zvýší tření během praní. - POZOR: Nepoužívejte zkrácený program.
Pokud se výrobek zplstil (tj. srazil) až příliš a je teď moc malý, můžete jej znovu namočit a zkusit vypnout do potřebných rozměrů. Je-li výrobek už suchý, nejprve jej namočte.
Pamatujte ale – každé další praní už se řídí obecnými pokyny pro šetrné praní vlněných výrobků.
Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ).

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS 151-23

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Komentáře / Otázky (18)

country flag Charlotta wrote:

Hej! När man stickat 8 cm och ska minska 8 m jämnt fördelat är det en gång på ett varv man ska minska 8 m då eller är det på varje varv fram till dess att arbetet mäter 15-16-17 cm? Förstår inte mönstret, tacksam för förtydligande.

30.05.2023 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Charlotta Når arbeidet måler 8 cm felles det 8 masker jevnt fordelt på neste omgang = 44, 44 eller 48 masker (avhengig av hvilken str. du strikker). Deretter strikker du til arbeidet måler15, 16 eller 17 cm. mvh DROPS Design

30.05.2023 - 13:28

country flag Anne wrote:

If the entire mitten for the Candy Crush pattern is knit in the round using the double pointed needles (like the Polar Stripes pattern) rather than straight needles as this pattern calls for, will the number of cast on stitches be the same ? I made the Polar Stripes mittens and they came out terrific. I`d like to try using the Big Delight yarn combo now.

13.02.2021 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, Well the Polar Stripes mittens are worked with DROPS Lima, a yarn group B (= 20 sts = 10 cm) while these mittens are worked with DROPS Big Delight, a yarn group C (= 16 sts = 10 cm) - you cannot use the same pattern since tension is not the same - maybe Touch of Gold could then help you = worked in the round with a yarn group C (Alaska) you can replace with Big Delight. Hope this helps. Happy knititng!

15.02.2021 - 07:35

country flag Konny wrote:

In der Beschreibung ist der Daumenkeil 9 bis 9,5 cm lang zu stricken, oben steht als Größe vor dem Filzen 15 bis 18 cm. Woher kommt der Unterschied?

11.11.2020 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Konny, die 9-9-9.5 cm sind von Anfang dem Teil "DAUMEN" gemessen, nicht von Anfang der Zunahmen für Daumen bei der Handschuh. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2020 - 14:21

country flag Zorattisolange wrote:

Avez -vous des modeles pull camionneur femme?

28.02.2020 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zorattisolange, nous vous invitons à parcourir nos très nombreux modèles de pulls (en choisissant une technique pour affiner votre recherche si besoin ) . Bon tricot!

02.03.2020 - 08:50

country flag Ria Fontaine wrote:

Hoi hoe kan het dat vilten in wasmachine soms mislukt? ik gebruik groene zeep ,misschien te weinig? want soms vervilt het niet genoeg.

02.02.2016 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ria. Wol is een natuurproduct, dus soms reageert het anders afhankelijk van temperatuur, de machine enzovoort. Denk ook om om misschien een spijkerbroek of tennisballen erbij te doen. De "wrijving" is ook een deel van het vilten. Het is handig om eerst een proeflapje te breien en vilten - dan weet je precies wat nodig is om de juiste resultaat te krijgen :-)

03.02.2016 - 17:35

country flag Lumi wrote:

Hei! Onko olemassa jokin huovutuksellinen syy siihen, miksi nämä lapaset neulotaan tasona vai voinko neuloa ne suljettuna neuleena? En ole ennen kokeillut huovutusta. Kiitos vastauksesta, lanka näyttää ja tuntuu ihanalta!

05.09.2015 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Voit tietysti halutessasi neuloa käsineet suljettuna neuleena!

07.09.2015 - 16:56

country flag Anke Pomp wrote:

Ich habe diese Wolle gekauft, sie wurde mir empfohlen, um Babyschuhe zu stricken und zu verfilzen. Ich habe die Schuhe nach Anleitung gestrickt und verfilzt, nur leider haben sie nicht gefilzt. Sie sind so groß (laut Anleitung für Neugeborene) dass ich sie einem 1 jährigen Kind als Schuhe anziehen könnte. Was kann ich tun? Ich habe natürlich gleich 6 Knäuel gekauft. Bitte um schnelle Antwort, da was sich um Weihnachtsgeschenke handelt. Anke Pomp

17.12.2013 - 06:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anke, Big Delight eignet sich zum Filzen, aber es ist schwierig etwas zu der Grösse zu sagen, wenn Sie eine andere Anleitung benutzt haben.

17.12.2013 - 09:14

country flag Garnstudio Deutschland wrote:

Danke für den Tipp, liebe Brigitte!

16.12.2013 - 07:53

country flag Brigitte Langer wrote:

Gerade habe ich das 8. Paar Handschuhe aus Big Delight nach dieser Anleitung beendet. Ich habe keinen Fehler gefunden, aber ich möchte mitteilen, das ich seit dem zweiten Mal die Handschuhe mit eine, Nadelspiel in Runden stricke, weil mir die Seitennähte nicht so gut gefielen. Viele Grüße Brigitte

13.12.2013 - 21:28

Jolande wrote:

Hej, nej det var omöjligt, dem kunde inte blir större. Tyvärr, men om jag skulle sticka ett nytt par igen och tvätta dem på fin tvätt program har jag kanske bättre resultat.

30.10.2013 - 16:32