DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Tanja

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with textured pattern and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 149-1
DROPS design: Pattern no li-031
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
750-850-900-1000-1100-1200 g colour no 7810, moss green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
And 24 sts pattern according to diagram A.2/A.3 = 10 cm in width (measured horizontally in pattern, not along sts).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec on each side of marker in the sides on jacket, dec outside A.1 on front and back piece and dec inside sts in garter st on band/collar.
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker/A.1/sts in garter st on collar/band:
K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker/A.1/sts in garter st on collar/band:
Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc inside outermost st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog fourth and fifth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from bottom edge on the longest part):
SIZE S: 11, 18, 25, 32 and 39 cm
SIZE M: 12, 19, 26, 33 and 40 cm
SIZE L: 13, 20, 27, 34 and 41 cm
SIZE XL: 12, 18, 24, 30, 36 and 42 cm.
SIZE XXL: 13, 19, 25, 31, 37 and 43 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 14, 20, 26, 32, 38 and 44 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 260-276-300-324-340-364 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Lima. Work 3 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows:
6 band sts in garter st, work A.2 (= 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), 30-34-37-43-45-51 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (= side), 30-34-37-43-45-51 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 (= 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts), A.3 (= 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), 30-34-37-43-45-51 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (= side), 30-34-37-43-45-51 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.3 (= 26-26-29-29-31-31 sts) and 6 band sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 8 cm 3 more times (= 4 dec in total on each side of both markers).

DECREASE IN TEXTURED PATTERN:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 10 cm – adjust so that next row is a row with inc and dec in A.2/A.3 - dec 1 st outside A.1 on front and back piece, i.e. in stocking st section after/before A.1 – READ DECREASE TIP.
Dec in addition 1 extra st in A.2 and A.3 on front and back piece so that section with diagonal stripes gradually becomes smaller. Dec 1 st in A.2 by working the last 2 sts before dec the same way as dec, i.e. K 2 tog. Dec 1 st in A.3 by working the next 2 sts after dec the same way as dec, i.e. slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 8 sts dec in total on row).
Repeat these dec every 8th row 8-8-8-8-7-7 more times (= 9-9-9-9-8-8 dec in total) – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above.
After all dec are done, 172-188-212-236-260-284 sts remain on needle. Continue the pattern as before – READ THE REST OF PATTERN BEFORE CONTINUING.

INCREASE IN TEXTURED PATTERN:
When piece measures approx. 38 cm – adjust so that next row is with inc and dec in A.2/A.3 - inc 1 extra st in A.2 and A.3 so that section with diagonal stripes becomes larger. Inc 1 st in A.2 by working 2 sts in st after inc and inc 1 st in A.3 by working 2 sts in st before inc (= 4 sts inc on row). Repeat inc every 4th row 5 more times (= 6 times in total) and then every 8th row 6-6-6-6-5-5 times.

SHAWL COLLAR:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm (i.e. 1 cm after last buttonhole on right band), inc 1 st in each side for shawl collar – READ INCREASE TIP. Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 ridge (i.e. 2 rows K) back and forth over the outermost 7 sts on row (i.e. band + 1 inc st - the other sts on row are not worked), turn piece and work 1 row from RS as before over all sts, turn piece and work 1 ridge back and forth over the outermost 7 sts, turn and work back as before over all sts again (this is done so that the neckline folds nicely when neck dec beg – see explanation below). Then work back and forth over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME continue inc for shawl collar inside outermost st in each side on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 5-5-6-6-7-7 more times (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total) and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 14-14-15-15-16-16 times in total = 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts inc for collar and 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts in garter st in total.

NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm, dec 1 st for neck inside sts in garter st on band + inc sts for collar - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other row 3 more times (= 4 times in total) and then every 4th row 7-7-7-9-9-9 times - NOTE: When dec for neck, the inc is moved into pattern in A.2/A.3 on front piece after dec for neck so that inc is further in on piece.

ARMHOLES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm, cast off 4 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 2 sts on both sides of both markers) and finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
ADJUSTING DIAGONAL LINES:
When piece measures 64-64-64-64-62-62 cm (all inc in A.2/A.3 should now be done), dec and inc in A.2 and A.3 every 8th row instead of every 4th row so that the slanting of the lines is gradually weaker. This is done 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total, then work A.2/A.3 back and forth over the middle 58-58-64-64-68-68 sts without inc and dec (work the other sts as before).
When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off the middle 20-20-20-24-24-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 39-43-49-53-58-64 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm and cast off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole AT THE SAME TIME inc for shawl collar and dec for neckline as before.

ADJUSTING DIAGONAL LINES:
When piece measures 64-64-64-64-62-62 cm (all inc in A.2 should now be done), dec and inc in A.2 every 8th row instead of every 4th row as on back piece so that the slanting of the lines is gradually weaker. This is done 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in total, then work A.2 back and forth without inc and dec (work the other sts as before). After all inc and dec, there are 65-69-77-81-88-94 sts on needle.
When piece measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from WS, cast off the first 39-43-49-53-58-64 sts on shoulder, K the rest of row over the last 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts.

COLLAR:
Beg mid front and work in garter st back and forth over the remaining sts for collar as follows: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the outermost 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts (towards mid front) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm on the most narrow part, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue as on right front piece but reversed (continue with A.3 instead of A.2 - work the other sts as before).
Cast off shoulder sts from RS (instead of WS).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Lima and work 3 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 7-10-8-13-9-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm 16-17-18-19-22-26 more times (= 17-18-19-20-23-27 inc in total) = 80-84-88-92-100-110 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-45-44-42 cm, insert 1 marker mid under sleeve. Continue back and forth on needle until sleeve measures 50-49-48-46-45-43 cm and cast off. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st - marker mid under sleeve should fit marker in the side on body. Sew collar tog mid back (make sure that seam is not visible when collar is folded down) and sew collar to neckline at the back of neck. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = work 2 sts in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (159)

country flag Elizabeth Warren wrote:

I am having trouble understanding the decreasing instructions at the 8cm length stage. I don’t understand where abouts the decreasing takes place in the row. Is it next to the A1 panel or next to the side marker? Thank you

14.03.2024 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Warren, the decreases starting after 8 cm are worked on both sides of the markers inserted at the very beginning of body; ie in the middle of the sections worked in stocking stitch on both sides of body, between front and back pieces. Happy knitting!

15.03.2024 - 08:18

country flag Evelyn wrote:

In diagram A2, rows 4 and 8-is it really 1 yo between 2 sts?

06.01.2024 - 00:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Evelyn, in A.2 there are no yarn overs; in rows 1 and 5 from the bottom (charts are read from bottom to top) you work in both loops of the stitch and increase 1 stitch. In A.1, you have yarn overs in rows 1, 5, 9 and 13, where you work 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. Those 2 stitches are the two white squares, each on one side of the yarn over symbol. So it would be p2, k1, yarn over, k1, p2. Happy knitting!

07.01.2024 - 23:59

country flag Sabine wrote:

In dem Diagramm sind in der vierten Reihe linke Maschen zu stricken. In der Rückreihe würde ich nach Anleitung dann rechte Maschen stricken. So ergeben sich 2 Rippen auf der Vorderseite. Auf dem Foto sieht es aber so aus, als sollte es nur 1 Rippe sein. Was ist richtig? Danke im Voraus

28.11.2023 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeichnet, dh jede 4. Reihe stricken Sie eine Rückreihe rechts, so ergibt sich 1 Rippen auf der Vorderseite. (so hat strickt man 2 Reihen glatt rechts, 2 Reihen krausrechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.11.2023 - 08:23

country flag Denise TerBeest wrote:

In the transition where you reduce for armholes: I assume this is done at side markers? Also at the end of the bind off row do you cut yarn and begin again in back portion? Not sure how you get over bind off stitches to get to back?

11.05.2022 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs TerBeest, correct you cast off 2 stitches before + 2 stitches after each of the marker (= 4 sts in total of each armhole = 2 sts on each front piece + 2 sts on each side of back piece). You can cut the yarn to work first back piece, or put ball aside and work it later when working this front piece and work back piece with a new ball. Happy knitting!

11.05.2022 - 15:58

country flag Manuela Bruckbauer/Mauracher wrote:

Es ist eine sehr schöne Jacke zu Stricken. Aber kann es sein das nach den ganzen Abnahmen in A2/A3 und Seitlich an den Markierungen die Maschen Anzahl nicht stimmt. Bei 2XL sollten 260Maschen auf der Nadel sein es sind aber tatsächlich 292. Habe es mehrmals durchgerechnet.

15.12.2021 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bruckbauer/Mauracher, es wird zuerst 4 Maschen x 4 auf der Seiten abgenommen, dann 8 Maschen (in glatt rechts zwisschen A.1 + A.2 + A.2) x 8 Mal, so haben Sie: 340 - (4x4) - (8x8) = 260 Maschen. Kann das Ihnen helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.12.2021 - 16:24

country flag Milly wrote:

For the shawl collar, we have to increase the garter stitches on both sides from 6 sts to 28 sts by increasing 22 sts on each side but at the same time we are decreasing sts 11 times. So, we end up with 17 sts in total for the garter sts. Are we supposed to have 28 sts or 17 sts in the end?? If we are supposed to have 28 sts in total then should we increase the garter stitch 11 more times (after the 22 sts increase and 11 sts decrease) to make up for the difference??

17.11.2020 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Milly, there are 6 sts for each front band and you will increase 1 stitch a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times on every other row + 14-14-15-15-16-16 on every 4th row = 20-20-22-22-24-24 times = 20-20-22-22-24-24 stiches increased + 6 sts in garter st for the front band = 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts in garter stitch in total. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

17.11.2020 - 16:17

country flag Presi wrote:

Hello. I have a question. I am not able to understand whether the decrease for neckline happens inside A2/A3 on the front piece or inside the band + collar sts. If the decrease is happening in the band + collar sts section then why are we increasing and decreasing the sts in the band sts simultaneously? I am really confused... Please help!

11.11.2020 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Presi, you decrease for neck inside all stitches worked in garter stitch (= front band stitches + increased stitches for collar) - at the same time work A.2/A.3 as before and increase for collar. Happy knitting!

12.11.2020 - 09:05

country flag Alice RAOUL wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai perdu le fil des augmentations /diminutions dans la dernière partie du patron. J'ai fait toutes sortes de calculs pour arriver à savoir où j'en étais mais je ne trouve nulle part le nombre de mailles pour A2/A3 et jersey après les indications. Il manque une donnée très importante. Merci pour votre aide.

28.12.2019 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Raoul, en fonction de votre nombre total de mailles, et le cas échéant du nombre d'augmentations pour le col/diminutions pour l'encolure déjà faites, vous pourrez retrouver le nombre de fois que vous avez augmenté/diminué pour votre taille. Bon tricot!

02.01.2020 - 12:23

country flag Irene wrote:

Im working on the sleeves, when piece measures 48cm i have to insert a marker mid under sleeve and have to work back and forth. I dont understand why i have to insert the marker? Do i knit back and forth from marker ? Im making the sleeves on circular needles instead of dpn

11.12.2019 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, the marker will mark the beginning of piece worked back and forth and where to seam sleeve later, this video shows how to add the markers, work the end of sleeve and sew it along armhole. Happy knitting!

11.12.2019 - 16:01

country flag Irene wrote:

Im at the part where i have to increase and decrease (42cm) i understand where and how i have to dicrease. Im just a bit confused about the note: "inc. Is moved into pattern in a2/a3 so that inc is further in on piece" does this mean i have to increase 3 times in the middle of the piece and not increase in a2 and a3 before/after the band? Or do i just decrease after band and immediately increase 2 times? Love this project, cant wait to finish and wear this beautiful piece

13.09.2019 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, when decreasing for neck and increasing in A.2/A.3 the pattern will automatically move towards shoulder. Happy knitting!

16.09.2019 - 08:11