DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 4.65 € /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Cupcake

Knitted DROPS neck warmer and hat with spiral pattern in ”Polaris” or 2 strands "Snow" or "Andes".

DROPS 151-43
DROPS design: Pattern no po-066
Yarn group F
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
300-300 g colour no 06, light beige

Or use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
250-250 g colour no 47, light beige

Or use:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
300-300 g colour no 0619, light beige

NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Circumference: approx. 54-60 cm
Height: approx. 18-22 cm
Materials:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
200-300 g colour no 06, light beige

Or use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
150-250 g colour no 47, light beige

Or use:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
200-300 g colour no 0619, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 13.5 rows with 1 thread in Polaris or 2 threads in Andes/Snow in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 4.65 € /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
YARN CHANGE TIP:
When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the strand switch invisible in the yarn.

SPIRAL PATTERN:
Work * K 4, P 2*, repeat *-* around. The pattern repeat goes over 6 sts and the stitch number can be divided by 6 + 1. When working in the round the pattern will automatically shift 1 st to the right for each round and creates a spiral pattern.

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HAT:
Cast on 49-55 sts on double pointed needles size 8 mm with 1 strand Polaris or 2 strands Snow and work in the round.
K 1 round over all sts.
Then work according to SPIRAL PATTERN – see explanation above until piece measures approx. 17-18 cm – READ YARN CHANGE TIP! K 1 round, insert 6 markers in piece with 8-9 sts before each of the first 5 markers and 9-10 sts before last marker.
Continue in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 1 st on right side of every marker by K 2 tog, repeat every other round 4-5 more times (= a total of 5-6 times) = 19-19 sts.
On next round K 2 tog around = 10-10 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

POMPOM:
Make a large, somewhat loose pompom of 15 cm in diameter and fasten at the top of hat.
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NECK WARMER:
Cast on 55-61 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with 1 strand Polaris or 2 strands Snow and work in the round.
K 1 round over all sts. Then work according to SPIRAL PATTERN – see explanation above until piece measures approx. 17-21 cm – READ YARN CHANGE TIP! K 1 round and cast off.
Piece measures approx. 18-22 cm.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.11.2014
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 13.5 rows in sts of pattern = 10 x 10 cm (not stocking st).
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (119)

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I would like to make the above pattern in Andes or Snow do I use a double strand on both or single strand.I made this in Polaris,the cowl was perfect but the hat was way too big. Thks Carol Maitland.

06.01.2023 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Carol Maitland! This pattern is written for 2 threads in Andes/Snow. If you want to make it lighter, you could always choose stitch count from other tutorials and use this diagonal pattern for lines. Mix and match! Happy knitting!

06.01.2023 - 22:43

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi just finished this pattern for my daughter,Idid do one less pattern repeat and it turned out better than the last time,smaller.Now my question is I have noticed that the bottom of the cowl and the hat the ends curl,why would this be and do you have a solution.\r\n\r\nThks,Carol

09.07.2022 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, it seems to be a problem with the gauge. This may sometimes happen, especially if you use different needles. You could try to fix it by ironing it with steam to try to flatten it. Happy knitting!

15.07.2022 - 12:39

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi,I recently made this hat for my daughter,the cowl was fine but the hat was too big.i am new to knitting so what size needle should I use .thks carol.

22.04.2022 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, if the hat is too big due to your knitting gauge, you should use a smaller needle, for example 7mm. However, it may be difficult to work with Polaris with such a small needle. You could instead work 1 less repeat of the 6-stitch pattern, so that the end result is slightly smaller. Happy knitting!

23.04.2022 - 16:37

country flag Ricarda wrote:

Vor einiger Zeit fragte jemand, ob man die Mütze auch "im Muster", statt glatt rechts bis oben stricken kann. Ja, das geht und natürlich auch das Stricken mit einer Rundstricknadel. In der Anleitung DROPS Extra / 0-1045 wird erklärt, wie man im Spiralmuster abnimmt, man muss es nur anpassen und darauf achten, dass die Spirale andersherum läuft!

08.12.2021 - 01:22

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi! Will be using anders to make the hat. Do I use / threads or one? Thanks for responding. S

21.11.2021 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, if you are using the Andes yarn, you will need to use two strands at once. Happy Stitching!

21.11.2021 - 14:54

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I have made the above pattern.The rep told me to check my tension as I feel the hat is to big.I used 49 stitches for small/medium.Would it be ok to use 7mm instead of the 8mm. Thks carol.

23.10.2021 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, you should always make a sawtch, check your gauge, and recalculate stitch numbers accordingly if necessary. Generally, using smaller needles will result a smaller, but denser piece. Happy Stitching!

24.10.2021 - 03:09

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I sent in a question above and the rep told me to check my tension,that being said how about if I use 7 mm dpn for the hat instead of the 8 mm,would this make the hat smaller.thks again.Carol.

23.10.2021 - 01:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, using a smaller needle would result a smaller, but at the same time denser, lest soft piece. Happy Stitching!

24.10.2021 - 02:57

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I have just finshed this pattern the cowl and hat.My problem is the hat,I used 49 stitches for small/medium and the finished product still looks big.I have yet to get my daughter to try it it may fit.Is it possible to use smaller needles for this pattern.thsk carol.

22.10.2021 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Maitland, always make sure to check and keep correct tension - read more about tension here. You will find other hat with a spiral pattern here. Happy knitting!

22.10.2021 - 16:55

country flag Elke K wrote:

Frage zum Pompom, der Durchmesser soll 15 cm sein, welchen Durchmesser hat der innere Kreis von der Schablone? Was bedeutet lockerer Pompom? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort

10.12.2020 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, dieses Video zeigt, wie man ein Pompon macht - der innere Kreis kan ca 1/3 kleiner, dh hier 3 cm - aber am besten versuchen Sie, wie Sie es am besten möchten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.12.2020 - 13:04

country flag Nina Writz wrote:

Cupcake spiral hat pattern 151 - 43 The Spiral pattern SPIRAL PATTERN: Work * K 4, P 2*, repeat *-* around. The pattern repeat goes over 6 sts and the stitch number can be divided by 6 + 1. When working in the round the pattern will automatically shift 1 st to the right for each round and creates a spiral pattern. I do know understand how it can spiral and not be a rib stitch. I must be misunderstanding the pattern. Thank you for your time. Nina

03.09.2020 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Writz, the pattern is worked in the round, without changing the way to work the stitches at the end/beg of the round, this means you will work (K4, P2) all the way, since the pattern is worked over 6 sts and since the number of sts is divisible by 6+1, the (K4, P2) will automaitcally be shifted. See also the video below. Happy knitting!

04.09.2020 - 08:02