DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 3.70 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 150-4
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-479
Yarn group E
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/8½ - 9/10
EU: 35/37 - 38/39 – 40/42
Foot length: 22-24-26 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
300 g for all sizes in color no 08, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 6 mm / US 10 - or size needed to get 13 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 536: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 3.70 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows pattern seen from RS.

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SLIPPERS:
LEG:
Cast on 36-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with Snow. Work in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above - until piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½'', finish after 1 round P.

FOOT:
Now keep the first 9-11-11 sts on the round on the needle, slip the remaining 27-27-29 sts on 1 stitch holder. Continue in garter st back and forth over the 9-11-11 sts - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row cast on 1 new st in each side (edge st) = 11-13-13 sts. When piece measures 7-8.5-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/4"-4'', bind off 1 edge st in each side = 9-11-11 sts. Then slip the sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 12-14-16 sts on each side of middle part (inside 1 edge st) = 60-66-72 sts on needle.
Now measure piece from here. Insert 1 marker mid front of toe and 1 marker mid back on heel.
Continue in the round in garter st.
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', K 2 sts tog on each side of every marker on every other round (= 4 sts less per round) continue dec until piece measures 5-5-6 cm / 2"-2"-2½" – bind off. Sew tog seam mid under foot in outermost st to avoid a chunky seam.


LOOSE LEG WORKED ACROSS:
Cast on 22 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Snow. Work 1 ridge in garter st, on last row inc 6 sts evenly = 28 sts. Work according to A.1 (= 28 sts) until piece measures approx. 32-33-35 cm / 12½"-13"-13 3/4", on last row dec 3 sts over every cable in A.1 = 22 sts.
Work 1 ridge in garter st and bind off. Place cast-on edge over bind-off edge and sew on 3 buttons for decoration through the leg. Pull leg 2 cm / 3/4'' down on foot with buttons on the outside of slipper and sew leg to cast-on edge on slipper from WS with invisible stitches.

Knit another slipper the same way, make sure that the leg opening is in the opposite side.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 150-4

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Comments / Questions (386)

country flag Pilar Lobos wrote:

Chicas este patron lo tienen como esquema necesito hacer 2 por favor

25.10.2016 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Pilar. Aquí te dejo un video explicativo:

DROPS Knitting Tutorial: How to knit and sew up the slippers in Drops 150-4 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

30.10.2016 - 12:52

country flag Ida wrote:

Undrar även hur minskningen av tre maskor i varje fläta på skaftet sker. Görs dessa minskningar genom att sticka två maskor tillsammans medan maskor ligger på hjälpsticka?

23.10.2016 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ida. Du er faerdig med fletterne, saa du kan strikke de 6 m sammen to og to (6 masker bliver 3)

24.10.2016 - 10:44

country flag Ida wrote:

Var ska jag sätta tå- och hälmarkören i största storleken. På videon ser det ut som att tåmarkören sätts fyra maskor in men gäller det även för största storleken? (Eng: where do i put the markers for the largest size. In the vidoe it seems to be put four stitches in for the toe but is it the same for all sizes?)

23.10.2016 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ida. = Sätt 1 markör mitt fram på tån och 1 markör mitt bak på hälen. Dvs, du saetter den ene i midten af taaen (tael maskerne) og det samme for haelen. Videoen viser den mindste str.

24.10.2016 - 10:43

country flag Cheryl wrote:

Did you block the leg and slipper? My leg looks very narrow.

16.10.2016 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cheryl, make sure you checked and kept correct tension when knitting, ie 13 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

17.10.2016 - 10:27

country flag Dawna Johnson wrote:

Help please, I have tried 3 times to make red Riding Hood slippers but each time I keep getting holes where you need to add stitches, please what am I doing wrong?

15.10.2016 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Johnson, you'll find here a video showing how to pick up sts along the mid part on top of foot - as also shown in the video below. Happy knitting!

17.10.2016 - 09:38

country flag Nel wrote:

Een prachtig patroon! Met de duidelijke instructies en video's goed te doen. Ook de wol Eskimo is heerlijk warm en ziet er stoer uit. Nadeel van Eskimo is dat de sloffen al na een paar keer dragen erg gaan pillen. Ook gingen ze lubberen.Tip: een koordje gevlochten van wol en dat net onder de manchet door de slof rijgen, aantrekken en de slof blijft goed zitten!

14.05.2016 - 22:54

country flag Dale Torrey wrote:

I've just joined & so far this looks like an amazing site. I have placed 2 patterns in my favorite file & I saw placed.above this expires in 60 days I'm not really sure what this refers to can you explain.further please? Another question I have now that I see a.button that says to print a pattern, I don't have a printer is there some.way to.download patterns? Thank you in advance for any information you can give me to help with my confusion, I think I am really going to enjoy your site

03.05.2016 - 01:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Torrey, patterns are saved with your e-mail during only 60 days, after this time, you will have to save them again. You cannot download our patterns. You need to either see them online or print them. The only alternative you have is to print as .PDF - so if you can print as .PDF from your phone, a file will be created, instead of a print, that you can store. Happy knitting!

03.05.2016 - 09:02

Glenda Paterson wrote:

I have never seen this yarn in Australia. Could you please tell me what PLY this yarn. Thank you

20.04.2016 - 09:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Paterson, please click here for more information about the thickness our yarns - and you will find here the list of DROPS stores shipping worldwide, ie even to Australia. Happy knitting!

20.04.2016 - 10:57

country flag Tiny wrote:

Volgens mij pluist wol altijd bij dragen/slijten - sommige meer dan andere - het hoort erbij. ;-)

04.04.2016 - 10:45

country flag Linnea Carlsson wrote:

Hej För storlek 39 står att man ska lägga upp 38 maskor och fördela dem på 4 stickor, men det går ju inte att fördela 38 jämt på 4.. så hur ska man göra?

03.04.2016 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Då får du ha 10 m på 2 av stickorna och 9 på de andra 2 stickorna. Lycka till!

04.04.2016 - 11:32