DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Princess Petal

Circle jacket crocheted in 2 threads DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS Children 24-1
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-005-bn
Yarn group A + A
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Size: 3/5 - 6/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/110 - 116/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Chest measurements: 54/58 - 60/64 - 66/70 - 72/76
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g, colour no 4088, heather
150-150-150-150 g colour no 3250, light old pink
100-100-150-150 g colour no 3125, light pink
100-100-100-100 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr in width x 8 rows vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
STRIPES - BODY:
Worked in a circle from mid back.
Beg with 2 strands of colour 4088. Continue as follows:
3-3-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of colour 4088.
3-3-4-4 rounds with 1 strand of colour 4088 + 1 strand of colour 3250.
3-4-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of colour 3250.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 2 strands of colour 3125.
3-4-4-4 rounds/rows with 1 strand of colour 3125 + 1 strand of colour 0100.
3-3-5-5 rows with 2 strands of colour 0100.

STRIPES - SLEEVE:
Worked from sleeve cap and down in stripes as follows:
Beg with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
Work 9-10-11-12 cm with this colour combination. Continue with 9-10-11-12 cm with 2 strands of colour 3250 and
10-10-11-12 cm with 1 strand of colour 4088 + 1 strand of colour 3250. Then finish the sleeve with 2 strands of colour 4088 = approx. 10-11-12-12 cm.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every round/row with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 htr, in the next 1 dc and in the last 1 sl st, turn with 1 ch, skip sl st, work 1 sl st in dc, 1 dc in htr, 1 htr in first tr, continue with tr until 3 tr remain at the end of row *, repeat from *-* until 6-7-7-7 rows have been worked in total.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeves):
Dec 1 tr at beg and end of row by working the second and third tr tog and the 2 next to last tr tog, this is done as follows: Work 1 tr in first tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Crochet 5 ch on hook size 5 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1:
12 tr in ch-ring.
ROUND 2:
1 tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st tr = 12 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3:
1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space the entire round = 36 tr.
ROUND 4:
* 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 tr.
ROUND 5:
1 tr, * 2 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st tr = 24 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 6:
1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space the entire round = 72 tr.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 6th tr work 2 tr = 84 tr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 7th tr work 2 tr = 96 tr.
ROUND 9:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 8th tr work 2 tr = 108 tr.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 9th tr work 2 tr = 120 tr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 10th tr work 2 tr = 132 tr.
Piece measures approx. 14 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE 3/5 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 30 tr (= up towards neck), work 22 loose ch, skip the next 20 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 62 tr (= down towards back), work 22 loose ch, skip the next 20 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 30 tr but inc 2 tr evenly (= 32 tr), then work 22 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 62 tr but inc 2 tr evenly (= 64 tr), work 22 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 140 tr.
ROUND 14 to 17:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 17th round there are 180 tr on round and piece measures approx. 21 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 60 tr in each side - i.e. the 30 tr at the top by neck and the 30 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 6/8 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 35 tr (= up towards neck), work 23 loose ch, skip the next 21 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 67 tr (= down towards back), work 23 loose ch, skip the next 21 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 35 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 38 tr), then work 23 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 67 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 70 tr), work 23 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 154 tr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 204 tr on round and piece measures approx. 23 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 68 tr in each side - i.e. the 34 tr at the top by neck and the 34 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 12th tr work 2 tr = 156 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 38 tr (= up towards neck), work 25 loose ch, skip the next 23 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 72 tr (= down towards back), work 25 loose ch, skip the next 23 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 38 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 41 tr), then work 25 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 72 tr but inc 3 tr evenly (= 75 tr), work 25 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 166 tr.
ROUND 16 to 21:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 21st round there are 226 tr on round and piece measures approx. 26 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 74 tr in each side - i.e. the 39 tr at the top by neck and the 39 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 11/12 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 11th tr work 2 tr = 144 tr.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 12th tr work 2 tr = 156 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 13th tr work 2 tr = 168 tr.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 42 tr (= up towards neck), work 27 loose ch, skip the next 25 tr (= armhole), then work 1 tr in each of the next 76 tr (= down towards back), work 27 loose ch, skip the next 25 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in each of the first 42 tr but inc 4 tr evenly (= 46 tr), then work 27 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in each of the next 76 tr but inc 4 tr evenly (= 80 tr), work 27 tr in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first tr at beg of round = 180 tr.
ROUND 17 to 23:
Continue with tr – at the same time inc 10 tr evenly on every round. After 23rd round there are 250 tr on round and piece measures approx. 28 cm from centre and outwards. Fasten off.
Then work only over 83 tr in each side - i.e. the 42 tr at the top by neck and the 42 tr at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 60-68-74-83 tr. Insert 1 marker after 18-20-22-24 sts in from each side (= 24-28-30-35 sts between markers). Then work stripes and tr back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at each marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 tr on row - inc alternately before and after each marker outwards) until a total of 6-6-8-8 rows have been worked back and forth AT THE SAME TIME work according to DECREASE TIP 1. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 60-68-74-83 tr in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down - see STRIPES - SLEEVE above.
Work 24-27-28-34 LOOSE ch with 1 strand of colour 3250 + 1 strand of colour 3125.
ROW 1: Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (the first 3 ch = 1 tr), then work 1 tr in every ch the entire row = 22-25-26-32 tr. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 3 ch + 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until last tr and 3 tr in last tr = 26-29-30-36 tr. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 3 ch + 1 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until 1 tr remains and 2 tr in last tr. Turn piece.
Work 1-1-2-2 more rows as 3rd row = 30-33-36-42 tr.
NEXT ROW: Work 3 ch + 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until last tr and 3 tr in last tr = 34-37-40-46 tr. Turn piece.
Now work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm. Continue with tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 tr in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 8th-6th-5th-4th row 2-3-4-6 more times = 28-29-30-32 tr.
Continue with 1 tr in every tr until sleeve measures 38-41-45-48 cm. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body as follows with 2 strands of colour 0100: 1 sl st in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 tr, fasten with 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sl st. Sew sleeves in body - make sure that sleeve cap is sewn in at the top of armholes, i.e. where the distance is shortest.
Work an edge around the sleeves the same way as around body but with 2 strands of colour 4088.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.10.2014
Under SIZE 11/12 YEARS and ROUND 14 (in every 13th, not in every 12th ):

ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but in every 13th tr work 2 tr = 168 tr.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (134)

country flag Marie wrote:

Je ne comprends pas les diminutions pour le devant. Comment crocheter en B jusqu'a ce qu'il reste 3 B, etc. Merci pour plus de precisions. Je suis bloquee a ce niveau.

08.03.2015 - 05:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, chaque devant se crochète de chaque côté des 30-42 B en haut et en bas du dos (placez un marqueur si nécessaire pour délimiter le 1er rang), vous diminuez ensuite comme indiqué sous "Diminutions 1": vous crochetez le 1er rang du 1er devant sur les mailles que vous avez repérées jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 m et commencez les diminutions de *-*. Bon crochet!

09.03.2015 - 09:27

country flag Daniëlle wrote:

Hallo, Ik vroeg me af of ik dit patroon ook zonder de mouwtjes zou kunnen maken. Of lijkt dat nergens naar? Groet Daniëlle

07.03.2015 - 00:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Daniëlle. Je kan dat wel proberen. Toch zou ik de armsgaten afsluiten met een mooi randje of zo. Kijk wat jij het mooiste vindt. Veel haakplezier.

12.03.2015 - 16:56

country flag Marijke wrote:

Bij dit leuke patroon ben ik nu toe aan de voorpanden. Maat 3/5. Ik heb markeerders geplaatst links en rechts op 18 st boven en onder midden voor. Daar zitten dan 36 st tussen. Wat wordt bedoeld met 24 st tussen de markeerders? Tussen welke markeerders? Is er een tekening waar de markeerders op zijn aangegeven? Vriendelijke groet, Marijke

21.02.2015 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marijke. Je hebt 180 st in totaal en 60 stk voor elk voorpand: 30 stk boven en 30 stk beneden. Je kan de voorpanden ook markeren met een draad of markeerder. De twee markeerders volgens het patroon komen in het voorpand: tel 18 stk van boven en 18 stk van beneden en plaats hier de markeerders. Je zou nu 24 stk hebben tussen deze 2 markeerders. Ik heb geen tekening, maar hoop dat het zo duidelijker is.

03.03.2015 - 13:52

Jacky Weber wrote:

Hi, I'm making this beautiful cardigan for my grand daughter. I'm having trouble understanding the front sides. It says to increase at both ends and also do the decrease tip 1 but I can't end on a slip stitch and increase a dc into that stitch as well? If someone can explain this please. Thanks. Jacky.

26.01.2015 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Weber, when working front piece, you first place 2 markers then inc 1 dc at each marker and at the same time dec at the end/beg of every row - so you will dec each side of front pieces and inc at each marker. Happy crocheting!

27.01.2015 - 09:54

country flag Maria wrote:

Maria 11.01.2015 kl. 23:40: Ställer frågan igen! Om jag vill virka koftan enfärgad, hur mycket garn behöver jag till storlek 6/8år?

19.01.2015 - 08:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Det kan jeg desvaerre ikke hjaelpe dig med. Men gaa ud fra totalen i de naevnte farver i opskriften. Saa er du paa den sikre side!

19.01.2015 - 13:24

country flag Nina Bøjer wrote:

Hjææælp! Jeg forstår virkelig ikke de forstykker :-( Kan ikke finde ud af, hvor det lige er de der markører skal sidde. Har sat nogen i så de 60 m i hver side ligesom er afgrænset, men den der, der skal sættes 18 m inde forstår jeg ikke hvor skal sidde eller hvordan jeg kommer videre :-( Håber virkelig I kan hjælpe mig :-)

12.01.2015 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina. Du har 60 m til forstykket. Saa saetter du en markör 18 fra hver side. Dvs, du taeller 18 m ind oven paa forstykket og 18 m ind fra neden (forstykket er de 60 m). Du har saa 24 m i mellem de to markörer.

13.01.2015 - 13:49

country flag Maria wrote:

Ställer frågan igen! Om jag vill virka koftan enfärgad, hur mycket garn behöver jag till storlek 6/8år?

11.01.2015 - 23:40

country flag Maria wrote:

Om jag vill virka den i en färg, hur mycket garn behöver jag då till storlek 6/8 år?

25.12.2014 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria. Det staar överst i mönstret. Str 6/8 aar er nummer 2: Garnåtgång: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK från Garnstudio 150-150-150-200 g nr 4088, ljung 150-150-150-150 g nr 3250, ljus gammelrosa 100-100-150-150 g nr 3125, ljus rosa 100-100-100-100 g nr 0100, natur

15.01.2015 - 16:51

country flag Louke wrote:

Ik ben er uit, iemand via via heeft me geholpen. Eigenlijk heel simpel maar je moet het maar even weten

24.12.2014 - 13:26

country flag Kathi wrote:

Hallo, ich komme leider nicht mit den Vorderteilen zu Recht. Habe die Markierungen für Gr6/8 Jahre nach Anleitung gemacht-und nun? Ich häkle los, mache vor beiden und nach beiden Markierungen eine Zunahme habe also 4 + 68 Stäbchen und am Ende der Reihe die Abnahmen? Aber damit habe ich doch mehr als die 68 angegebenen Stäbchen?! Das ist mir irgendwie unklar. Der Anfang als Kreisform lies sich wirklich gut arbeiten... Danke für eine Rückantwort Kathi

27.10.2014 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Sie nehmen pro R nur 2 Stb zu, nämlich ABWECHSELND vor und nach den Markierern. Also erst vor jedem Markierer je 1 Stb, dann in der nächsten R nach jedem Markierer je 1 Stb, dann wieder vor den Markierern usw. Gleichzeitig häkeln Sie die Abnahmen wie im Tipp beschrieben.

28.10.2014 - 21:30