Penny

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 145-16
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-041
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-88-98-108-120-132 cm /
30 3/4"-34½"-38½"-42½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 7402, light sea green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/ US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 7-7-7-7-7-8 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 47 and 54 cm /
3",6¼",9½",12½",15¾",18½" and 21¼".
SIZE M: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm /
3",6¼",9½",12½",15¾",19" and 22''.
SIZE L: 8, 17, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm /
3",6¾",10¼",13½",16½",19¾" and 22¾".
SIZE XL: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44, 52 and 60 cm /
3",6¾",10¼",13¾",17¼",20½" and 23½".
SIZE XXL: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44, 53 and 62 cm /
3",6¾",10¼",13¾",17¼",21" and 24½".
SIZE XXXL: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56 and 64 cm /
3",6¼",9½",12½",15¾",19",22'' and 25¼".

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for your size in A.1 and A.2.
--------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 203-225-245-269-297-327 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 4 ridges in garter st over all sts. Then continue in stockinette st but work bands in garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Insert 1 marker in each side, 55-60-64-70-77-84 sts in from mid front (back piece = 93-105-117-129-143-159 sts).
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 1 st (work 2 sts tog) on each side of both markers.
Repeat dec every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' 3 more times (4 dec in total) = 187-209-229-253-281-311 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm / 3'', dec for first BUTTONHOLE on right band – see explanation above!
When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers by K 2 sts in the st before and after the marker. Repeat inc every 3½-4-4-4½-4½-5 cm / 1 1/4"-1½"-1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2" 3 more times (4 inc in total) = 203-225-245-269-297-327 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-23-22-17-17-19 cm / 8 1/4"-9"-8 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½", work as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st, A.1(= 49-49-49-61-61-61 sts), work in stockinette st until 55-55-55-67-67-67 sts remain, finish with A.2 (= 49-49-49-61-61-61 sts) and 6 sts in garter st.
On last row in A.1/A.2 bind off 8 sts in each side (= 4 sts on each side of markers) = 187-209-229-253-281-311 sts.
Piece now measures approx. 36-38-37-39-39-41 cm / 14¼"-15"-14½"-15¼"-15¼"-16". Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 55-56-60-62-64-69 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk.
Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 8-8-6-6-8-8 cm / 3"-3"-2½"-2½"-3"-3'', inc 1 st on each side of marker by working 2 sts in the st before and after the marker.
Repeat inc every 2½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 13-13-18-17-21-20 more times (14-14-19-18-22-21 inc in total) = 83-84-98-98-108-111 sts.
When piece measures 46-46-44-44-43-43 cm / 18"-18"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"-17", bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off 4 sts each side of marker) = 75-76-90-90-100-103 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
P 1 row from WS on body while AT THE SAME TIME working the sleeves on to needle = 337-361-409-433-481-517 sts.
Then work as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.3 A (= 7 sts), repeat A.3B over the next 312-336-384-408-456-492 sts (26-28-32-34-38-41 times), finish with A.3 C (= 6 sts) and 6 sts in garter st. Continue like this.
When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 283-303-343-363-403-433 sts on needle.

Then work as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.4 A (= 6 sts), repeat A.4 over the next 260-280-320-340-380-410 sts (= 26-28-32-34-38-41 times), finish with A.4 C (= 5 sts) and 6 sts in garter st. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 229-245-277-293-325-349 sts on needle.

Continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.5 A (= 5 sts), repeat A.5B over the next 208-224-256-272-304-328 sts (26-28-32-34-38-41 times), finish with A.5 C (= 4 sts) and 6 sts in garter st. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 175-187-211-223-247-265 sts on needle.

Continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.6 A (= 4 sts), repeat A.6B over the next 156-168-192-204-228-246 sts (26-28-32-34-38-41 times), finish with A.6 C (= 3 sts) and 6 sts in garter st. Work A.6 1-1-2-2-3-3 times vertically.

Continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.7 A (= 4 sts), repeat A.7B over the next 156-168-192-204-228-246 sts (26-28-32-34-38-41 times), finish with A.7 C (= 3 sts) and 6 sts in garter st. When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 121-129-145-153-169-181 sts on needle.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-8-20-24-36-44 sts evenly = 117-121-125-129-133-137 sts.
Now work an elevation in the back of neck. K all rows.
Work as follows from WS: Work 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts, turn and work 20 sts back. Turn and work 30 sts. Turn and work 40 sts. Turn and work 50 sts. Turn and work 60 sts. Turn and work 70 sts. Turn and work 80 sts. Turn and work over all sts on needle.
Work 3 ridges in garter st over all sts.
Bind off.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = this st has been dec
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 145-16

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Annicka wrote:

Hej igen, som jag förstår så är det inget mönster på bakstycket? Hälsning Annicka

30.06.2021 - 08:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annicka, jo när du kommer upp till oket, vill du automatiskt få mönster på bakstycket när du följer mönstret :)

30.06.2021 - 13:42

country flag Annicka Andréasson wrote:

Jag undrar vad som menas med siffrorna 49 m inom parentes på mönster a1? Mvh Annicka

28.06.2021 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annicka. Det är antalet maskor (49 st) som du stickar i storlek S-M-L i det diagrammet. I de storlekarna stickar du alltså bara det som är i den rutan av det diagrammet. Mvh DROPS Design

29.06.2021 - 08:42

country flag Gea Van Opbergen wrote:

Ronde pas van onder naar boven breien is onhandig zonder zijband. De steken van de mouwen moeten in veel te kleine ruimte van de afgekante steken. Ik adviseer om voor en achterpanden apart te breien.

15.03.2021 - 15:19

country flag Francine Bauchan wrote:

In the pattern diagram, A3,A4, A5 and A7 with: slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso [black triangle in key at top rows] do not show a YO on each side....was that left out in diagram or part of design? A6 does show it. TY

29.08.2020 - 01:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bauchan, that's right, on next to last row in A.3, A.4, A.5 and A.7 you decrease 2 sts each time you work (Slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso), then on next row you can see the black squares matching " no stitch" since these sts have been decreased. In A.6 you do not decrease that's why there are yarn overs to compensate the decreases. Happy knitting!

31.08.2020 - 09:19

country flag LM wrote:

How easily adjustable is this pattern for a larger bust? E.g. I'd need an L size for the bust, but likely S or M for everything else if I want it to be fitted. On which rows/stitches could I put increases and decreases to do this? Thanks

16.09.2019 - 00:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear LM, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every request, please contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone - for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

16.09.2019 - 11:28

country flag Birgit Andersen wrote:

Jeg er en rimelig god strikker, men synes hulmønstrer diagrammet ikke bliver ens i begge sider. Højre side: slå om 2 ret sammen Venstre side 2 ret sammen slå om Hullerne bliver ikke ens. Hvor skal der strikkes flg: 1 løs af 1 ret træk den løse m over Det fremgår ikke tydeligt i diagrammet

02.09.2019 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgit, du starter på højre forstykke med A.1 = 1 ret, 1 omslag, tag 1 m løst af p, 1 ret, løft den løse m over. Og slutter på venstre forstykke med A.2 = 2 ret sammen, 1 omslag , 1 ret. God fornøjelse!

06.09.2019 - 11:24

country flag Susan wrote:

Is the back intended to be plain until you reach the yoke, or should that have the same diamond pattern as the front? And what size buttons do you expect to be used(Diameter?)?

09.08.2019 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Susan. The back is plain up to the yoke. The buttons have a diameter of 15 mm. Happy knitting!

09.08.2019 - 21:31

country flag Goli wrote:

Hi. thanks for completely explain. empty rows in the chart is wrong side or RS?

06.04.2019 - 00:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Goli. Empty rows (even rows) are worked on the wrong side. Happy knitting!

06.04.2019 - 09:58

country flag Cecilie Skovbjerg wrote:

Jeg mangler lidt en information om hvor mange masker der skal være på henholdsvis forstykker og bagstykke, når man lukker af til ærmegab.

23.11.2018 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Cecilie. Du har satt 1 merketråd i hver side, 55-60-64-70-77-84 m inn fra midt foran (= maskeantallet for hvert forstykke), og du har da 93-105-117-129-143-159 masker på bakstykket. Videre feller du 1 maske på hver side av merket totalt 4 ganger, men så øker du 1 maske på hver side av merket 4 ganger = uendret maskeantall. Du feller 4 masker på hver side av merket til ermhull. Så for å finne ut hvor mange masker du har på hver del: ta masketallet for forstykke (i din størrelse) og trekk fra 4, ta masketallet fra bakstykket og trekk fra 8 (4 masker felt i hver side) og du har svaret. God fornøyelse

26.11.2018 - 13:00

country flag Elaine Morris wrote:

What bust sizes are medium, large or extra large please?

13.01.2015 - 12:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Morris, you will find at the bottom of the page a measurement chart with all measures taken flat from side to side - compare these to a similar garment to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

13.01.2015 - 17:53