DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Honeymoon

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern in "BabyAlpaca Silk" or "Lace". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 146-4
DROPS design: Pattern no la-012
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M/L – XL/XXL/XXXL
Chest measurements: 80 to 96 cm – 106 to 130 cm
Measurements:
Circumference at the top: approx. 58-96 cm
Length from cast on edge to bottom edge mid front: approx. 57-52 cm (shorter in larger size due to deeper neck).

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
450-450 g colour no 0100, off white
OR use:
Materials: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
200-200 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Read KNITTING TENSION below.

2 meters off white silk ribbon 10 mm in width.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
KNITTING TENSION:
This garment is to be soaked and stretched to size afterwards. The knitting tension is therefore not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working to loose/tight, 23 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3.5 mm = approx. 10 x 10 cm.

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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See arrow for your size in Diagram A.2.
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PONCHO:
Piece is worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle and then in the round. This is done to make a vent mid front.
Cast on 156-220 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm (40 cm) with Baby Alpaca Silk or Lace. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows: A.1 (= 17 sts), * A.2 (= 5-21 sts), A.3 (= 34 sts) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, A.2 (= 5-21 sts), A.4 (= 17 sts). Continue this pattern back and forth until 2 repetitions of A.1/A.4 have been worked vertically, finish when 17 sts remain on needle. This is now the beg of round. Now continue to work in the round over all sts, continue with A.3 over A.1/A.4. Continue this pattern upwards, switch to a longer circular needle when needed. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 348 sts on needle in both sizes. Then work as follows: * A.3, A.5 A, A.5 B 2 times, A.5 C *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total. Every time A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there is 1 A.5 B more between every A.5 A and A.5 C.

Continue this pattern until a total of 9-8 repetitions of A.3 and 8-8 repetitions of A.5 have been worked vertically = 732 sts on needle in both sizes. K 1 round over all sts, over all A.5 dec 9 sts evenly (= 140 sts remain over every A.5, 696 sts in total.)
Then work as follows: * A.6 2 times, continue with the first 2 sts in A.5 A, work A.6 8 times, work the last 2 sts in A.5 C, * repeat from *-* 4 times in total.

Continue like this until A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically – K the inc sts in A.5 = 1072 sts. Loosely cast off.


BLOCKING:
If the poncho is worked in Lace, it needs to be blocked to get the right measurements and shape. If it is worked in Baby Alpaca Silk, lightly stretch or steam it. Place the poncho in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the poncho - do not twist the poncho - then roll the poncho in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the poncho will now only be moist. Place the poncho on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size in a nice circle and fasten it with pins. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the poncho has been washed.

Thread a silk ribbon up and down in the ridges on the neck of poncho and tie a bow.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (138)

country flag Karima wrote:

Als beginnende breister wil ik deze poncho graag maken, maar dan zonder split. Hoe pas ik het patroon daarop aan?

03.05.2022 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karima,

Om geen split te maken brei je in plaats van heen en weer, direct vanaf het begin in de rondte en maak je het voorpand net zoals het achterpand. Dus in plaats van A.1 aan elke kant van het voorpand, brei je daar A.3, net als op het achterpand.

04.05.2022 - 09:12

country flag Людмила wrote:

Перевод

04.09.2021 - 12:05

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai l'impression qu'il manque des jetés aux rangs 15, 17 et 19 sinon il n'y a plus le bon nombre de mailles? Je suppose qu'il faut faire des jetés avant et après les 3 mailles envers? J'ai oublié de préciser qu'il s'agit des rangs du diagramme A6!Merci!

14.03.2021 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, aux rangs 13, 15, 17 et 19, il faut faire les 2 jetés de chaque côté de la maille centrale, autrement dit, vous avez au milieu du rang 13 de A.6: (1 diminution, 1 jeté, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 1 diminution) - répétez ces jetés ainsi aux rangs 15, 17 et 19, avant et après la maille centrale. Bon tricot!

15.03.2021 - 08:46

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, je suis vraiment désolée de vous déranger encore mais même si je coupe mon fil et que je retourne mon tricote sur l'endroit, les 17 dernières mailles sont sur la droite et non sur la gauche donc ça ne va encore pas...Peut être qu'il ne faut pas faire le dernier rang envers et rester sur l'endroit pour commencer à tricoter en rond? Je ne sais plus trop quoi faire et ça m'ennuie de laisser tomber ce modèle qui a l'air très beau. Merci.

01.02.2021 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, terminez les diagrammes A.1 et A.4 par un rang sur l'envers, tournez l'ouvrage et glissez les 17 premières mailles vu sur l'endroit (= A.1), sur l'aiguille gauche (juste avant les 17 dernières mailles du rang = A.4), vous avez maintenant A.1 et A.4 côte à côte, et vous pouvez tricoter A.3 au-dessus de ces 34 mailles. Les tours commencent maintenant par A.3 et les autres mailles se tricotent comme avant. Bon tricot!

02.02.2021 - 09:52

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, Vous dites que je dois tricoter mon dernier rang sur l'endroit or mon dernier rang (Rang32) est sur l'envers par sur l'endroit or si je veux tricoter le début de A3 sur ces 17 dernières mailles, elles seront toutes contrariées...donc ça n'ira pas. Est-ce que le dernier rang doit être alors le rang 31 sur l'endroit mais du coup les 17 dernières mailles sont celles de A4 et non celles de A1? Je suis désolée de vous déranger encore!

30.01.2021 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, on aura effectivement une petite différence, pour l'éviter, coupez le fil après les diagrammes A.1/A.4 (en fin de rang sur l'envers), et commencez A.3 sur l'endroit sur les 17 dernières mailles du rang + les 17 premières. Bon tricot!

01.02.2021 - 09:02

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai tricoté en aller et retour et je suis arrivée aux 17 mailles et donc le moment où il faut tricoter en rond. Je ne sais pas si je dois retourner mon tricot et repartir dans l'autre sens où alors continuer à tricoter ces 17 mailles et si oui comment je les tricote? Merci!

29.01.2021 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, tricotez votre rang sur l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste les 17 dernières mailles, placez un marqueur, tricotez maintenant les 17 mailes suivantes + les 17 mailles de la fin des rangs précédent à suivre, comme indiqué dans A.3 (= 34 mailles). Et continuez en rond comme avant. Bon tricot!

29.01.2021 - 14:35

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, je suis au tout début de ce modèle, après les 4 rangs endroits j'ai tricoté A1 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A2 puis A4 sur l'endroit. Pour le rang envers je ne sais pas si je dois faire A1 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A2 puis A4 ou alors l'inverse A4 puis A2 puis *A2-A3* et enfin A1. Merci!

18.01.2021 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, sur l'envers, lisez dans l'autre sens pour que les diagrammes s'alignent correctement, autrement dit, tricotez (en lisant les diagrammes cette fois de gauche à droite): A.4, puis A.2, puis (A.3, A.2), et terminez par A.1. Retrouvez ici plus d'infos sur les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

19.01.2021 - 07:24

country flag Anna wrote:

Hej, 6 rapporter av A3 och 8 av A5 blir det i storlek XXL

29.11.2020 - 02:27

country flag Anna wrote:

DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 13:19: Hej Anna, du starter tidligere med A.3, for du starter først A.5 når du er færdig med A.2. God fornøjelse! I storlek XXL är A2 32 varv och 2 rapporter av A1/A4 är 32 varv = man börjar både A3 och A5 på varv 1 när man börjar sticka A5. Vilket innebär att jag inte kan göra 8 rapporter av både A3 och A5... 8 rapporter av A3 är 128 varv, 8 rapporter av A5 är 96 varv.... detta går inte ihop för mig.

28.10.2020 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, det kan jeg godt se... vi kan rette antal rapporter... hvor mange rapporter har du strikket i A.3 og A.5 når du har 732 masker på pinden?

29.10.2020 - 09:51

country flag Anna wrote:

Hej, När jag stickat A1/A4 två gånger på höjden i den stora storleken så har jag också stickat klart A2 på höjden. När jag då börjar A3 och A5 så börjar jag båda på varv 1 vilket innebär att jag har 4 varv kvar av A3 när jag stickat A5 en gång på höjden. Hur får ni då ihop att man ska sticka båda 8 gånger? Måste väl bli fler gånger av A5 om jag ska kunna sticka 8 omgångar av A3 på höjden?

25.10.2020 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, du starter tidligere med A.3, for du starter først A.5 når du er færdig med A.2. God fornøjelse!

28.10.2020 - 13:19