DROPS / 145 / 5

Dana by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern and long sleeves in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-465
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
All measurements in chart are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500-600-700 g color no 30, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 – or size needed to get 12 tr in width and 6 rows with pattern on sleeves = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PICOT:
Ch 4, then work 1 dc in the first ch made.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 3 tr at the beg and end of row by working the first 4 or last 4 tr tog.
This is done as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (when dec at the beg of row, ch 3 instead of 4), work 1 more tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 more tr but wait with last pull through, work the last tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.

PATTERN – SLEEVE:
ROW 1: ch 4 (these replace 1 sc + 3 ch), skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr, * ch 3, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 4 (these replace first tr), then work 2 tr in every ch-space and 1 tr in every sc between ch-spaces, finish with 3 tr in last ch-space. Turn piece.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until finished measurements.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
With Paris ch 4 on hook size 6 mm / J/10 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (replace 1 dc), 11 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: * 1 picot - SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE - skip 1 dc, 1 sl st in next dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 1 picot and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 6 leaves.
ROUND 3: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first leaf, * ch 7, 1 sc at the top of next leaf *, repeat from *-* 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in sc at the top of first leaf on round = 6 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: * 1 picot, 1 sc in ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in sc between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in first ch on picot from beg of round = 12 leaves.
ROUND 5: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first leaf, ch 6, * 1 sc at the top of next leaf, ch 6 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: ch 4 + 5 tr in first ch-space, ch 1, * 6 tr in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 72 tr.
ROUND 7: * ch 8, skip 6 tr, 1 sc in ch between tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until the top of first ch-space, 1 sc in ch-space, * ch 10, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 10 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 9: * 1 picot, 1 sc in ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in same ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in sc between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* so that there are 3 picots in every ch-space = 36 picots, finish with 1 sl st in first ch on picot from beg of round.
ROUND 10: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first picot, * ch 3, 1 sc at the top of next picot *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 ch-spaces.
ROUND 11: ch 4 + 2 tr in first ch-space, * ch 1, 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 108 tr.
ROUND 12: * ch 8, skip 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-*, finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 18 ch-spaces.
ROUND 13: * 1 picot, 1 sc in ch-space, 1 picot, 1 sc in sc between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 36 picots.
ROUND 14: ch 2, 1 sl st at the top of first picot, * ch 4, 1 sc at the top of next picot *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st at the top of first picot = 36 ch-spaces.
ROUND 15: ch 4 + 3 tr in first ch-space, * ch 1, 4 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 144 tr.
Piece now measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' from the middle and out.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 16: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times, ch 29 loosely (= armhole), skip 5 tr-groups, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from *-* 17 times, ch 29 loosely (= armhole), skip the last 5 tr-groups, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 17: ch 4 + 3 tr in first ch-space, ch 1, * 4 tr in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, in the long ch-space for armhole work as follows: ** 1 tr in each of the first ch 4, ch 1, skip 1 ch **, repeat from **-** a total of 5 times, finish with 1 tr in each of the last ch 4, ch 1, then repeat from *-* 17 times, i.e. until next long ch-space for armhole, work from **-** over this, finish with 1 tr in each of the last ch 4, ch 1 and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 152 tr.
ROUND 18: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in ch made between tr-groups *, repeat from *-* the entire round but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 38 ch-spaces.
ROUND 19: ch 4 + 5 tr in first ch-space, then work 5 tr in every ch-space but work 6 tr in the tenth space (so that the no of sts is divisible by 3), finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 192 tr.
ROUND 20: * ch 3, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 64 ch-spaces.
ROUND 21: ch 4 + 2 tr in first ch-space, 1 tr in sc, 2 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc, * 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc, 2 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 224 tr.
ROUND 22: Work as round 20 but skip 3 tr instead of 2 tr 2 places evenly = 74 ch-spaces.
Piece now measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' from the middle and out, cut the yarn.
Then work only over 21 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over the 16 ch-spaces at top by neck or the 16 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece further down the pattern.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 16: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 36 ch-spaces.
ROUND 17: ch 4 + 3 tr in first ch-space, ch 1, * 5 tr in next ch-space, ch 1, 4 tr in next ch-space, ch 1, 4 tr in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 4 tr in next to last ch-space, ch 1 and 5 tr in last ch-space, ch 1 and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 156 tr.
ROUND 18: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 6, 1 sc in ch made between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times, ch 35 loosely (= armhole), skip 5 tr-groups, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from *-* 17 times, ch 35 loosely (= armhole), skip the last 5 tr-groups, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 19: ch 4 + 4 tr in first ch-space, 5 tr in each of the next 8 ch-spaces, in the long ch-space for armhole work as follows: * 1 tr in each of the first ch 5, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 1 tr in each of the last 5 ch, then work 5 tr in each of the next 17 ch-spaces before working the long ch-space the same way as the first, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 190 tr.
ROUND 20: * ch 3 in first tr, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 3, skip the last 3 tr, 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 63 ch-spaces.
ROUND 21: ch 4 + 2 tr in first ch-space, * 1 tr in sc, 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc, 2 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 tr in last sc and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 221 tr.
ROUND 22: * ch 3, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 3, skip the last tr, 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 74 ch-spaces.
ROUND 23: ch 4 + 2 tr in first ch-space, * 1 tr in sc, 2 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc, 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 tr in last sc, 2 tr in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 258 tr.
ROUND 24: * ch 3, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 86 ch-spaces.
Piece now measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' from the middle and out, cut the yarn.
Then work only over 24 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over the 19 ch-spaces at top by neck or the 19 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece further down the pattern.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROUND 16: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 36 ch-spaces.
ROUND 17: ch 4 + 3 tr in first ch-space, ch 1, * 4 tr in next ch-space, ch 1, 5 tr in next ch-space, ch 1, 4 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 4 tr in next to last ch-space, ch 1 and 5 tr in last ch-space, ch 1 and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 156 tr.
ROUND 18: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 6, 1 sc in ch worked between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 36 ch-spaces.
ROUND 19: ch 4 + 4 tr in first ch-space, ch 1, * 5 tr in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 5 tr in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 180 tr.
ROUND 20: ch 1 (this replaces first sc), * ch 6, 1 sc in ch made between ch-spaces *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times, ch 41 loosely (= armhole), skip 5 tr-groups, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from *-* 17 times, ch 41 loosely (= armhole), skip the last 5 tr-groups, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 21: ch 4 + 5 tr in first ch-space, 6 tr in each of the next 8 ch-spaces, in the long ch-space for armhole work as follows: * 1 tr in each of the first 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 1 tr in each of the last ch 6, then work 6 tr in each of the next 17 ch-spaces before working the long ch-space the same way as the first, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 228 tr.
ROUND 22: * ch 3, skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 3, skip the last 2 tr, 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 76 ch-spaces.
ROUND 23: ch 4 + 2 tr in first ch-space, * 1 tr in sc, 2 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in sc, 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 tr in sc, 3 tr in last ch-space, 1 tr in last sc and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 266 tr.
ROUND 24: Work as round 22 but skip 3 tr instead of 2 tr 2 places evenly = 88 ch-spaces.
ROUND 25: Work as round 23 = 308 tr.
ROUND 26: Work as round 24 = 102 ch-spaces.
Piece now measures approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4'' from the middle and out, cut the yarn.
Then work only over 28 ch-spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over the 23 ch-spaces at top by neck or the 23 ch-spaces at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 21-24-28 ch-spaces. Continue as follows:
ROW 1: Crochet 1 tr in every sc (first tr is replaced with 4 ch) and 2 tr in every ch-space – AT THE SAME TIME work the first 4 and the last 4 tr on row tog - SEE DECREASE TIP! – i.e. 6 tr less on row every time 1st row is worked.
ROW 2: ch 4 (= 1 sc + 3 ch) up from first tr (i.e the 4 worked tog), * skip 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr, ch 3 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last tr (i.e. the 4 worked tog).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row a total of 4-5-6 times (= approx. 13-17-20 cm / 5"-6 3/4"-8"). 13-14-16 ch-spaces remain at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work the same way as on left front piece over 21-24-28 ch-spaces in the right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog at the end.
With Paris ch 42-46-49 loosely (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 6 mm / J/10 .
ROW 1: 1 tr in 5th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 5-2-5 ch, * skip1 ch , 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4 ch remain, skip 1 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 3 ch = 34-37-40 tr. Turn piece.
Work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr (first tr is replaced with 4 ch). Continue with PATTERN for sleeve – see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' (make sure that next row is 2nd row in pattern), inc 3 tr evenly. Repeat inc approx. every 8 cm / 3'' 3 more times = 46-49-52 tr in total on row. NOTE: Hold the piece up when measuring the sleeve length otherwise it will be to long when worn.
When piece measures approx. 49 cm / 19 1/4'' for all sizes (make sure that next row is 1st row in pattern), dec in each side for sleeve cap as follows: Work sl sts over the first 4 tr, then work ch-spaces as before until 3 tr remain, turn piece. On next row work the first 4 and the last 4 tr tog – SEE DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec every other row 2 more times.
Cut the yarn, piece measures approx. 59 cm / 23 1/4'' in all sizes.
Sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

ASSEMBLY:
Work 1 round around the entire body as follows – beg mid back of neck with 1 sc in first ch-space. * 1 picot (= ch 4, 1 dc in first ch), skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire piece, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Work the same way around the opening of the sleeves.
Sew sleeves in body - make sure that the sleeve caps are sewn in at the top of armhole, i.e. at the shortest distance between the armholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (97)

Angeline 17.02.2018 - 13:17:

I finished the left and right front but I made definitely an error with the armholes. Is there a video that shows me how to do the armholes for this pattern? This is the first time I made a vest as I am still learning. I wish I could upload a foto so you can see what I did wrong.

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 09:06:

Dear Angeline, you will find a tutorial with pictures showing how to crochet the armholes for this kind of pattern, it shows the standard technique to be able to apply to a lot of patterns. Happy crocheting!

Karen 05.08.2017 - 18:46:

After doing the decrease on the front panels first row then doing the chain 3, skip 2, sc on the second row do I put the last sc (finish with 1 sc in last treble (i.e. The 4 worked together) actually through the loops of the decrease or in the loop the decrease passes through???

DROPS Design 07.08.2017 kl. 11:53:

Dear Karen, the last sc will be crocheted in the first tr on previous row, ie the 4 tr crocheted tog. Happy crocheting!

Karen 28.07.2017 - 22:22:

I've got to round 20 on the l/xl size & im really stuck. I just can't figure out the: ch3 in 1st tr, skip 2, 1 sc in next tr after the initial combo. Where do I do the next ch3? I just can't make 63 ch-spaces!

DROPS Design 31.07.2017 kl. 09:38:

Dear Karen, work 3-ch-loops, ie *3 ch, skip 2 dtr, 1 sc in next dtr* and repeat from *-* around, you will have 63 3-ch-spaces with 1 sc between each ch-space. Happy crocheting!

Phia Van Mil 16.03.2017 - 16:42:

Ik moet aan de mouwen beginnen en daar staat in toer 1: na het eerste dstk in de 5e l vanaf de haak; 1 dstk in elk van de 5-2-5 l. moet ik dit lezen als 5 dstk, 2l oversl, 5dstk?

DROPS Design 17.03.2017 kl. 12:11:

Hoi Phia, De mouw is voor alle maten beschreven en 5-2-5 heeft betrekking op de verschillende maten, dus 5 voor S/M, 2 voor L/XL en 5 voor XXL/XXXL.

Chantelle 23.06.2016 - 13:22:

Hi, I want to use Elle premier cotton, which originally 3.5mm hook is needed. After reading your store calculation, I just want to make sure I understand it correctly. In order for me to get the gauge correct, do I need to use 2 strand with a 6mm? I also have t-shirt yarn, but I am not sure if it would be suitable. Thank you for a great pattern.

DROPS Design 23.06.2016 kl. 16:33:

Dear Mrs Chantelle, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact our DROPS Store (select your country scrolling down) for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

Celia Watkinson 13.06.2016 - 23:35:

Can you use any yarn category C yarn? I am considering brushed alpaca silk, would it work?

DROPS Design 14.06.2016 kl. 09:22:

Dear Mrs Watkinson, Brushed Alpaca Silk has a different texture so that it will have a different look read more here about alternative and remember your DROPS store will help you to choose the alternative matching your desire, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Tracee Winstone 31.05.2015 - 17:20:

When starting the left front piece, do you start with ch 4,? Also would you start in the chain loops or the dc (to the right of the first of the 28 loops) Thanks

DROPS Design 01.06.2015 kl. 10:11:

Dear Mrs Winstone, when starting left front piece, work 1 dtr in every dc (replace 1st dc with 4 ch at beg of row) and 2 dtr in every ch-loop - you should have 28 ch-loops (larger size) for each front and 23 ch-loops unworked at top by neck + 23 ch-loops at the bottom edge, ie start in a dc. Happy crocheting!

Andrea R. 01.04.2015 - 18:22:

Hallo Drops Team .. Jetzt ist die Jacke fertig und ich find sie toll. Super Wolle, tolles Muster und die Mitte hat sich 'ausgehangen', nichts wellt sich mehr :) Auch gute Anleitung, fuer mich als Anfänger, gut zu verstehn. Ich werde def mehr mit Drops arbeiten .. Danke :)

Andrea R. 29.03.2015 - 03:21:

Hi..Ich Mag diese Jacke sehr. Leider wellt sich bei meiner die Mitte. Was mach ich falsch?

DROPS Design 29.03.2015 kl. 13:01:

Das ist etwas schwierig zu beantworten, ohne die Jacke zu sehen. Evtl. häkeln Sie die Luft-M-Bögen zu fest, oder zu locker? Die angegebene Maschenzahl haben Sie aber in jeder Runde erreicht? Und die Maschenprobe eingehalten? Das ist sehr wichtig. Sie können probieren, ob sich das Problem löst, wenn Sie die Jacke etwas dehnen, sofern sie sich nicht sehr stark wellt. Sie kann anschließend, nach Beendigung, angefeuchtet und in Form gezogen bzw. gespannt werden.

Karen Veldhuizen 02.03.2015 - 20:47:

Ik wil deze gaan haken met de Bomull Lin, heb het materiaal in huis, maar ik twijfel enorm over de maat. Met welke maat is S/M vergelijkbaar en met welke is L/XL vergelijkbaar?

DROPS Design 03.03.2015 kl. 13:26:

Hoi Karen. Kijk onderaan het patroon. Hier vind je de maattabel met alle afmetingen in cm. Vergelijk deze met je eigen afmetingen om de juiste maat te kiezen.

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