DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 148-15
DROPS design: Pattern no oo-102
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color no 24, lavender

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 16 sts lace pattern according to diagram A.1/A.2 = width 10 cm / 4''.

+ an extra needle in the same size for cast-on edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP (applies to edge in rib):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BOLERO:
The piece is worked in several parts.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 57-61-63-63-69-71 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on 2 circular needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Vivaldi (to avoid a tight cast-on edge). Pull out one circular needle and work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 3-5-2-2-1-2 sts in stockinette st, work A.1a (= 4 sts), repeat A.1b (= 8 sts - diagram shows 2 repetitions) until 9-11-8-8-7-8 sts remain, finish with A.1c (= 5 sts), 3-5-2-2-1-2 sts in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked vertically, work 4 rows in stockinette st (work edge st in garter st), then work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 4-6-1-1-4-5 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to A.2 (= 12 sts) until 4-6-1-1-4-5 sts remain, finish with 3-5-0-0-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures approx. 24-24-24-25-25-27 cm / 9½"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10½" - make sure that 3 rows in stockinette st have been worked after 1 row with holes, work 2 more rows in stockinette st.
Then work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 3-2-0-0-0-1 st in stockinette st, work A.3a (= 4 sts), repeat A.3b (= 6 sts - diagram shows 2 repetitions) until 7-6-4-4-4-5 sts remain, finish with A.3c (= 3 sts), 3-2-0-0-0-1 st in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures approx. 34-37-38-41-42-44 cm / 13½"-14½"-15"-16"-16½"-17 1/4" - make sure that last row in A.3 remains.
K 1 row from WS, then very loosely bind off.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 58-65-65-72-72-79 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on 2 circular needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Vivaldi (to avoid a tight cast-on edge).
Pull out one of the needles and P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * A.5 (= 3 sts), P 4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', dec all 4 P sts to 3 P sts by P tog the first 2 sts in every P-section = 50-56-56-62-62-68 sts. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-9-5-11-9-15 sts evenly = 47-47-51-51-53-53 sts remain on needle.
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 2-2-0-0-1-1 st in stockinette st, work A.7a (= 4 sts), repeat A.7b (= 8 sts) until 8-8-6-6-7-7 sts remain, finish with A.7c (= 5 sts), 2-2-0-0-1-1 st in stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue pattern like this.
When A.7 has been worked vertically, work 5 rows in stockinette st, then work pattern according to A.2 until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', inc 1 st in each side.
Repeat inc every 5½-4-4½-3½-3½-3 cm / 2 1/4"-1½"-1 3/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-1 1/8" 4-6-5-7-7-8 more times = 57-61-63-67-69-71 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st until they can be worked in pattern. When piece measures 38-39-38-39-38-38 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-15"-15", K 1 row from WS before very loosely casting/binding off with K from RS.
Insert 1 marker at the top in each side on sleeve. Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 1 sleeve in each side on back piece – it is important to sew so that the edge is elastic and nice and even as the seam is both visible and very high up on sleeve (it is important that the garments is agile).
Sew in front loop of sts in garter st on back piece and inside cast-off edge on sleeve – see our technique video – assembly – mattress stitches - on our home page.

Fold the entire piece double in the middle so that the long sides of bolero is towards each other. Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st until markers (or desired length), repeat on the other sleeve.

EDGE IN RIB:
Pick up from RS approx. 100 to 140 sts around the entire opening of bolero on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Then work in the round on circular needle. P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 168-174-180-180-186-186 (divisible by 6).
Work next round as follows: * A.5 (= 3 sts), P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Continue pattern like this. When edge measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', inc all 3 P sts to 4 P sts - READ INCREASE TIP = 196-203-210-210-217-217 sts.
When edge measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" – make sure that after 1 round with holes in A.5, A.6 is worked instead of A.5 (P the other sts as before).
When A.6 has been worked, there are 252-261-270-270-279-279 sts on needle. Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (94)

country flag Heike wrote:

Warum werden die Ärmel nicht direkt seitlich angestrickt? Das wäre doch viel sauberer und auch einfacher, anstatt sie anzunähen.

11.01.2022 - 10:34

country flag Chris wrote:

J’ai réalisé ce modèle en taille L (cotes exactes) avec 3 pelotes soit 75g et il le reste encore pas mal de fil sur la troisième pelote.

16.06.2020 - 22:11

country flag Thea wrote:

Waarom wordt er zo vaak gebruik gemaakt van rondbreinaalden? Als ik het patroon zo lees kan het prima op normale breinaalden

03.03.2017 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Thea. Rondbreinaalden wordt vooral gebruikt in Scandinavië - ook bij heen en weer breien. En dit zijn van oorsprong Noorse patronen. Ook kan je veel meer steken kwijt op een rondbreinaald dan op een rechte naald :) Maar vaak kan je ook heen en weer breien op rechte naalden als je denkt dat je de st kwijt kan.

06.03.2017 - 13:46

country flag Mich42 wrote:

Bonjour, Pourquoi faut il utiliser des aiguilles circulaires pour réaliser les dos et les manches de ce modèle? Les aiguilles circulaires ne sont elles pas préconisées pour un travail en rond? Merci pour votre réponse.

26.01.2017 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mich42, on tricote le dos et les manches en allers et retours sur l'aiguille circulaire (voir vidéo), puis on termine par la bordure, en rond autour de l'ouverture. Bon tricot!

26.01.2017 - 09:42

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, Au tout début des manches on doit tricoter sur l'endroit A.5 (= 3 m), 4 m env. Mais il n'est pas dit comment on doit tricoter les 4 m env. sur l'envers. Merci d'avance. Cordialement, Marie

29.09.2016 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, ces 4 m env sur l'endroit se tricotent à l'end sur l'envers (= jersey env). Bon tricot!

29.09.2016 - 09:17

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, En ce qui concerne les manches on parle d'un rang envers sur l'envers après le montage des mailles mais comment devons-nous tricoter le premier rang à l'endroit ? Pour votre info, je tricote avec des aiguilles droites et non circulaires. Merci d'avance. Cordialement, Marie

25.09.2016 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, pour les manches, le 1er rang (après le montage) se tricote sur l'envers, et le 2ème rang sera fait sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

26.09.2016 - 10:52

country flag Barbara Martini wrote:

Buonasera, mi è sorto un dubbio, nei SUGGERIMENTO PER GLI AUMENTI (per i bordi a coste), ci sono indicazioni per come lavorare la maglia gettata, ma non capisco se vale solo per il bordo a coste da fare dopo la confezione o se tutte le maglie gettate (anche quelle del dietro e delle maniche) vanno lavorati come il suggerimento. Grazie ancora

16.03.2016 - 23:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Barbara. Le m che aumenta ai lati delle maniche e Nel bordo a coste vanno lavorate ritorte. Le m gettate dei diagrammi non vanno lavorate ritorte in quanto devono formare i buchi del motivo. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2016 - 06:42

country flag Barbara Martini wrote:

Buonasera, mi è sorto un dubbio, nei SUGGERIMENTO PER GLI AUMENTI (per i bordi a coste), cinsinonindicazioni per come lavorare la maglia gettata, ma non capisco che vale solo per il bordo a coste da fare dopo la confezione o sè tutte le maglie gettate (anche quelle del dietro e delle maniche) vanno lavorati come il suggerimento. Grazie ancora

16.03.2016 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Barbara. Le m che aumenta ai lati delle maniche e nel bordo a coste vanno lavorate ritorte. Le m gettate dei diagrammi non vanno lavorate ritorte in quanto devono formare i buchi del motivo. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2016 - 06:42

country flag Morgana wrote:

Ancora un dubbio: per il dietro, si inizia con due ferri a diritto, con il 3 ferro si inizia il diagramma A.1 a "maglia rasata", ma il 3 ferro è tutto un diritto o tutto rovescio?

14.03.2016 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Morgana, il 1° ferro del diagramma A.1 è un ferro dal diritto del lavoro, per cui lavorato a diritto. Si ricordi che i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra. Buon lavoro!

14.03.2016 - 22:23

country flag Morgana wrote:

Negli aumenti della manica dovendo passare da 53 maglie (comprensive dei vivagni) a 71 maglie eseguendo il diagramma A.2 con contestuali aumenti, la prima maglia è sempre una maglia di vivagno? quindi le maglie finali (71) sarebbero 69 maglie + le 2 di vivagno? Grazie

14.03.2016 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Morgana. Quando aumenta, la prima e l'ultima m sul ferro sono m vivagno. Quindi, alla fine degli aumenti, avrà 2 m vivagno + 69 m lavorate seguendo il motivo. Buon lavoro!

14.03.2016 - 21:21