DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 145-6
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-039
Yarn group A + A
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Measurements:
Width at the top: approx. 134 cm
Height mid back: approx. 67 cm

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 0100, off white
200 g colour no 8112, ice blue
250 g colour no 6235, grey blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr x 9 rows with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, work 3 ch, then work 11 tr around the loop. Pull yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side.

CROCHET TIP: Replace 1 htr at beg of round with 2 ch.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows:
0-27 cm: 2 threads off white
27-37 cm: 1 thread off white and 1 thread ice blue
37-47 cm: 2 threads ice blue
47-57 cm: 1 thread ice blue and 1 thread grey blue
57-67 cm: 2 threads grey blue
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SHAWL: Shawl is worked in stripes - see explanation above.
Work a magic circle with 12 tr on hook size 5 mm – see explanation above. Turn.

ROW 1: READ CROCHET TIP! 2 htr in first tr, * 1 htr in each of the next 2 tr, 2 htr in next tr *, repeat from *-* until 2 tr remain and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 2 tr = 16 htr. Turn.

ROW 2: 2 htr in first htr, * 1 htr in each of the next 3 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* until 3 htr remain and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 3 htr = 20 htr. Turn.

ROW 3: 2 htr in first htr, * 1 htr in each of the next 4 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* until 4 htr remain and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 4 htr = 24 htr. Turn.

ROW 4: 2 htr in first htr, * 1 htr in each of the next 5 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* until 5 htr remain and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 5 htr = 28 htr. Turn.

ROW 5: 2 htr in first htr, * 1 htr in each of the next 6 htr, 2 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* until 6 htr remain and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 6 htr = 32 htr. Turn.

ROW 6: 4 ch, work 3 tr in next htr, * skip 3 htr, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr in next htr *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 3 htr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next
htr, skip 1 htr, work 1 tr in last htr. Turn.

ROW 7: 4 ch, work 3 tr in first ch, * skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, 1 tr in last tr. Turn.

ROW 8: 4 ch, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr in first ch, * skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in last ch and 1 tr in last tr. Turn.

ROW 9: 4 ch, work 3 tr + 1 ch in first ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, * skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch-loop, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch and 1 tr in last tr. Turn.

ROW 10-11: Work as 9th row.

ROW 12: 4 ch, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in first ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr in next ch,* skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch-loop, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr +1 ch in last ch and 1 tr in last tr. Turn.

ROW 13: 4 ch, work 3 tr + 1 ch in first ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch,* skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr, + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch-loop, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, skip 6 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch, skip 3 tr, work 3 tr + 1 ch in next ch and 1 tr in last tr. Turn.

ROW 14-15: Work as 13th row.

When 3 rows have been worked as row 13, inc the same way as on row 12 (in ch-loop work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 3 ch +3 tr + 1 ch +3 tr + 1 ch, and work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr + 1 ch in first and last ch).

Work next row as 13th row but work 3 tr + 1 ch more between every top/bottom in pattern. Work 3 rows in total like this, then inc again. Continue like this upwards, on every 4th row inc in every top and in each side. Continue until shawl measures 67 cm measured along the middle of shawl. Cut and fasten the threads.


Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (189)

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour. Dommage qu'il n'y est pas la suite pour ce magnifique châle !!!! 🙁

04.10.2019 - 19:37

country flag Elodie wrote:

Bonjour pour le rang numéro 9 on commence bien par 4ml 3b 1ml dans la ml du rang précédent puis on saute 3b 1 ml on saute 6b 3ml 1ml on saute 3b 3b 3ml 3b 1ml on saite 3b 3b 1ml et on répète on saute 6b 3b 1ml etc... est ce bien cela car cest dure a suivre les explications merci

17.09.2019 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Élodie, il vous manque 3 brdies, 1 ml dans votre description en comparaison du rang 9: 4 ml, 3 B + 1 ml dans la 1ère ml, on va ensuite sauter 3 B et crocheter 3 B + 1 ml dans la ml suiv, = début du rang, on va ensuite répéter 6 fois au total la partie suivante: * on saute 6 B, on crochète 3 B + 1 ml dans la ml suiv, on saute 3 B, on crochète 3 B + 3 ml + 3 B + 1 ml dans l'arceau suivant, on saute 3 B, on crochète 3 B + 1 ml dans la ml suiv *, pour terminer le rang, on va sauter 6 B, crocheter 3 B + 1 ml dans la ml suiv, sauter 3 B, crocheter 3 B + 1 ml dans la ml suiv et 1 B dans la dernière B. Bon crochet!

18.09.2019 - 07:46

country flag Lisette Corthouts wrote:

Hoe gaat het verder met rij 8 Jammer stopt de video En lukt het me niet uit te komen met het patroon Grtjs

28.08.2019 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lisette,

In de video wordt inderdaad alleen het begin uitgelegd. De volgende toeren staan beschreven in het patroon. Bij toer 8 haak je eerst 4 lossen, 3 stokjes en 1 losse en 3 stokjes om de eerste lus. Dan herhaal je 6 keer wat tussen * staat. Vervolgens sla je 6 stokjes over en haak je nog 3 stokjes en 1 losse en 3 stokjes en 1 losse om de laatste losse en 1 stokje in het laatste stokje. Dan keer je het werk en ga je verder met toer 9.

31.08.2019 - 12:58

country flag Patricia wrote:

Pardon, oubliez ma question précédente. J’avais fait une erreur au 7e rang.

02.07.2019 - 19:59

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le 8e rang. Si je suis les instructions, cela ne fonctionne: je n’aurai pas 6 répétition, mais 10 je crois. Je lis et relis les directives du 8e rang et je ne vois pas ce que je dois faire pour que cela fonctionne. Existe-t-il un schéma? Merci.

02.07.2019 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, vérifiez que votre rang 7 est correct, au rang 8, vous aurez 1 groupe de 3 b de chaque côté, et 4 groupes de 3 b espacés de 3 ml dans chacun des arceaux de 3 ml. Le rang 9 va ensuite former les pointes. Bon crochet!

03.07.2019 - 07:17

country flag Pernille wrote:

Hej! Har virkelig brug for hjælp😰 har valgt at strikke det med 1 tråd og nål 3,5 Er nu nået til række 8 og der begynder det at bøje op som en hagesmæk!!! Hvad gør jeg galt???🙏🏻

24.06.2019 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pernille. Vær obs på at ved å endre heklefastheten kommer sjalet ditt til å bli mye mindre enn de målene som er angitt. Det kan høres ut som du hekler litt for stramt, da vil arbeidet bøye seg. Det er fort gjort å hekle luftmasker stramt, da disse ofte feilaktig hekles ytterst på nålen. 1 luftmaske skal være like lang som en stav er bred. Normalt ville jeg rådet deg til å kontrollere heklefastheten din, men siden du har endret den kan jeg ikke fortelle deg hvilken heklefasthet du burde ha på nål nummer 3,5 - da det er individuelt hvor løst/stramt man hekler på en gitt nålstørrelse. Forsøk å hekle luftmaskene løsere å se om det hjelper. God fornøyelse

26.06.2019 - 08:01

country flag Marjon wrote:

Heb problemen met toer 9. Het overslaan van 6 stokjes en hetgeen wat beschreven staat in patroon krijg ik niet gehaakt binnen de l-lus. Met als gevolg dat er totaal geen verband in patroon zit. Neem aan dat 6 stokjes overslaan elke keer op de zelfde plaateen hoort te gebeuren? Help!

21.06.2019 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjon,

Het overslaan van de 6 stokjes gebeurt inderdaad steeds op dezelfde plek, Op deze plek zal uiteindelijk de omslagdoek in de hoogte op zijn kortst zijn; dus het zijn de binnenste 'punten', als je begrijpt wat ik bedoel. In de volgende lus (dus nadat je de 6 stokjes hebt overgeslagen) haak je weer 3 stokjes. Misschien kun je het beter zien als je inzoomt op de detailfoto.

23.06.2019 - 20:11

country flag Pernille wrote:

Skal lige høre, Op billedet er der 5 forskellige farver på sjalet. Men under jeres menu til sjalet henviser i til 3?? Hvordan kan det være??

09.06.2019 - 22:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernille, det er fordi striberne er strikket i en kombination af de 3 farver. Se STRIBER: Der hækles striber således: 0-27 cm: 2 tråde naturhvid 27-37 cm: 1 tråd naturhvid og 1 tråd isblå 37-47 cm: 2 tråde isblå 47 -57cm: 1 tråd isblå og 1 tråd gråblå 57-67 cm: 2 tråde gråblå

10.06.2019 - 12:02

country flag Augusta Jensen wrote:

Hvad betyder. Næste række hækles som 13.række, men der hækles 3 st + 1lm mere "mellem hver spids/bund i mønsteret" ?

05.06.2019 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Augusta. Omgangen før så økte du som på rad 12, dvs at når du så skal hekle som rad 13 igjen så er det fler masker mellom spissen og "bunnen av spissen" i mønsteret. Altås på hver side av trekantene/spissene. Du må derfor hekle 3 staver + 1 luftmaske mer på hver side av spissene/trekantene enn det du gjorde sist gang du heklet som rad 13. God fornøyelse

06.06.2019 - 07:48

country flag Liesbeth Mennen wrote:

Ik heb deze omslagdoek gemaakt. Wat een mooi en super makkelijk patroon. Ben er heel blij mee. Ga er zeker nog 1 in najaarskleuren maken

05.06.2019 - 17:05