DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 147-1
DROPS design: Pattern no w-468
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M/L - XL/XXL/XXXL
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
150-200 g colour no 12, red
150-150 g colour no 17, off white
150-150 g colour no 01, apricot
150-150 g colour no 38, raspberry
100-100 g colour no 27, peach


DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 2 fans (with 9 tr) = approx. width 8 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO: Replace 1st tr on round with 3 ch.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Stripe pattern is different in the sizes (1 stripe more in red in size XL/XXL/XXXL), model on picture is size S/M/L.

TR-GROUP:
1 tr-group = in same ch-loop work 2 tr, 3 ch and 2 tr.

FAN:
1 fan = in same ch-loop work 9 tr. Replace 1st tr on 1st fan with 3 ch.

COLOUR CHANGE:
To get a nice colour change work last sl st on round with the new colour as follows: Insert hook in last ch from beg of round, get the new colour, make a YO and pull it through st on hook.
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PONCHO:
The piece is worked in the round from neck and down. Crochet 64-72 ch loosely on hook size 5 mm with off white Paris and form a ring with one sl st in 1st ch. Then work according to A.1 as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 5 ch (replace 1st tr and the first 2 ch), * 1 tr in ch-ring, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 31 more times - see diagram A.1, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 32 tr and 32 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 3 ch, in 1st ch-loop work 1 tr, 3 ch and 2 tr (= 1st tr-group), * 1 ch, skip 1 ch-loop, in next ch-loop work 1 TR-GROUP * - read explanation above, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 tr-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-loop on 1st tr-group, work 1 FAN - read explanation above - in loop, * 1 dc in next ch-loop (between tr-groups), 1 fan in ch-loop on next tr-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 dc in last ch-loop and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle tr on 1st fan, 1 ch, 1 dc in same tr, * 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle tr on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 8 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 16 ch-loops.
ROUND 5: Work 5 ch (replace 1st tr and the first 2 ch), * in next ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr and 2 ch, 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time, do not work last tr but 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 tr and 48 ch-loops.
ROUND 6: Work 3 ch, in 1st ch-loop work 1 tr, 3 ch and 2 tr (= 1st tr-group), * 1 ch, skip 1 ch-loop, in next ch-loop work 1 tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 24 tr-groups.
ROUND 7: Work sl sts until ch-loop on 1st tr-group, work 1 fan in loop, * 1 dc in next ch-loop (between tr-groups), 1 fan in next tr-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 dc in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 24 fans.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until the middle tr on 1st fan, 1 ch, 1 dc in same tr, * 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle tr on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 8 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 24 ch-loops.
Then repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time (= 3 rounds in total with fans in off white) = 36 ch-loops on last round (i.e. 12TH ROUND). Switch to peach at the end of last round - READ COLOUR CHANGE.
Repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time in peach = 54 ch-loops on last round (i.e. 16TH ROUND), switch to apricot at the end of this round. Then repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time in apricot = 81 ch-loops on last round (i.e. 20TH ROUND), switch to raspberry at the end of this round.

Size XL/XXL/XXXL:
= 81 ch-loops on last round. Then work the last inc with raspberry as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 5 ch (replace 1st tr and the first 2 ch), ** * in next ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, in next ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr and 2 ch (= 2 tr and 2 ch-loops in 3rd ch-loop), 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch ** - i.e. there are 7 tr and 7 ch-loops over 3 ch-loops from previous round, see diagram A.2. Repeat from **-** until 3 ch-loops remain on round, then work as follows: * In next ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr and 2 ch (= 2 tr and 2 ch-loops in loop), 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (i.e. there are 6 tr and 6 ch-loops over these 2 loops), in last ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr and 2 ch (= 2 tr and 2 ch-loops in loop), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 190 tr and 190 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Work 3 ch, in 1st ch-loop work 1 tr, 3 ch and 2 tr (= 1st tr-group), 1 ch, skip next ch-loop, * in next ch-loop work 1 tr-group, 1 ch, skip 1 ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 95 tr-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-loop on 1st tr-group, work 1 fan in loop, * 1 dc in next ch-loop (between tr-groups), 1 fan in next tr-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 dc in last ch-loop and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 95 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle tr on 1st fan, 1 ch, 1 dc in same tr, * 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle tr on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 8 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 95 ch-loops. Switch to red at the end of round, then work in red until finished measurements.

All sizes:
= 81-95 ch-loops on last round. Then work without inc (with raspberry in size S/M/L, with red in size XL/XXL/XXXL) as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 5 ch (replace 1st tr and the first 2 ch), * in next ch-loop work 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch * - see diagram A.3, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time, do not work last tr but 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 162-190 tr and 162-190 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Work 3 ch, in 1st ch-loop work 1 tr, 3 ch and 2 tr (= 1st tr-group), 1 ch, skip next ch-loop, * in next ch-loop work 1 tr-group, 1 ch, skip 1 ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 81-95 tr-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-loop on 1st tr-group, work 1 fan in loop, * 1 dc in next ch-loop (between tr-groups), 1 fan in next tr-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 dc in last ch-loop and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 81-95 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle tr on 1st fan, 1 ch, 1 dc in same tr, * 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle tr on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 8 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 81-95 ch-loops.
Size S/M/L: Switch to red at the end of round.
All sizes: Repeat ROUNDS 1-3 1 more time in red (NOTE: Finish with 3RD ROUND, there are 7-8 rounds with fans in total) = 81-95 fans on last round, cut and fasten the thread.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.02.2013
Amounts edited:
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
150-200 g color no 12, red
150-150 g color no 17, off white
150-150 g color no 01, apricot
150-150 g color no 38, raspberry
100-100 g color no 27, peach

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc
symbols = tr
symbols = ROUND 1
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (337)

country flag Macayla Dwyer wrote:

Hi, I love this pattern but I'm just a little confused what it means in Round 1 replace 1st dc and the first 2 ch? Thankyou so much :D

22.04.2023 - 02:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Macayla, the length of ch5 is usually equivalent to 1tr and ch2. So, instead of working this in the pattern you will work the ch5. You don't need to replace anything yourself; just work the ch5. Happy crochetting!

23.04.2023 - 19:28

country flag Kaitlin wrote:

Hello! I'm really looking forward to making this pattern but I'm not sure what you mean by 'work slip stitches until chain space' in row 3- after that first sl st to join, would I just make a single sl st in that 2nd double crochet, then do a fan? (btw thanks for the pattern, it's the cutest capelet I could find!!!)

17.04.2023 - 07:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kaitlin, so that 3rd round starts from middle of double crochets group (US-English), you finish 2nd round with 1 slip stitch int he 3rd chain from beg of 2nd round, then crochet 1 slip stitch in each stitch to the first chain space (= 1 slip stitch in the dc, 1 slip st in the next 2 chains = middle of ch-space in the first dc-group). Happy crocheting!

17.04.2023 - 10:06

country flag Deepti Oza wrote:

Hello. W 468 this pattern is beautiful. I would like to see video tutorial of the same. Please help me. If there is any one else who has done this please tell them to send the video on this email ID. Please

08.11.2021 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Oza, we do not have video for this pattern, but this lesson explains how to crochet a diagram and might help you to make this poncho. Happy crocheting!

09.11.2021 - 11:55

country flag Deepti wrote:

This pattern is very very beautiful. Please can you give me a tutorial for pattern number 468. I am not able to understand the written pattern as I am new to knitting. Please help me.

20.10.2021 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deepti, all the relevant tvideotutorials and lessons are linked just below the pattern. I hope you will find one there that can help you. Happy Stitching!

20.10.2021 - 11:42

country flag Stacia Teegardin wrote:

Is it possible to adapt this for my 8 year old granddaughter?

24.12.2019 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stacia, you can go about it a few different way. The easiest maybe to use a thinner yarn and hook, resulting in a smaller gauge (for example use DROPS Cotton light instead of the Paris. You can also start with less pattern repeat and leave out a couple of rows. Happy Crafting!

24.12.2019 - 22:34

country flag Noha wrote:

How come if i chained 72 i must get 32 chain spaces in first round? That is not possible because since we chained more stitches at first, we have bigger round and therefore more chain spaces!

24.10.2019 - 00:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Noha, you will get the same number of ch-spaces in all sizes since you are working first round around the chains from ring of chains (not in the chains themselves), the fundation chain in larger size is larger to get make the neck larger. Happy crocheting!

24.10.2019 - 10:35

country flag Lil wrote:

Is it possible for a video tutorial to be made

15.06.2019 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lil, you will find here how to read crochet diagrams here, please feel free to ask your questions here. Happy crocheting!

17.06.2019 - 07:10

country flag Vidya wrote:

If I chain 64 I will get 32 dc but if I chain 72 I have to get 36 dc ?

10.02.2019 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vidya, you will get the same number of dc in all sizes since you are working first round around the chains from ring of chains, the fundation chain in larger size is larger to get make the neck larger. Happy crocheting!

11.02.2019 - 10:35

country flag Vidya wrote:

In the pattern I chained 72 so have to chain 5 more to start R 1?

11.01.2019 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vidya, when you have chained 72 sts, join in the round with 1 sl st in the first chain, then work now in the round starting 1st round with 5 chains (= replace 1st tr + first 2 chains). Happy crocheting!

11.01.2019 - 15:13

Amina wrote:

Hi, love this poncho, according to A1 , after chaine 5 , did u skip 1 ch , then make 1dc ch 2 all around plz

02.11.2018 - 04:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amina, on first round, just crochet around the chains, repeatingn (1 dc, 2 ch) until you get 32 dc and 32 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!

02.11.2018 - 08:11