DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Liv

Knitted DROPS sleeveless jacket with round yoke and pockets in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 147-3
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-013
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120-132 cm /
33"-36 1/4"-39½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm /
26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/ US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/ US 2.5 – for edges.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 9 pieces for all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 and 67 cm /
1 1/8",4 3/8",7½",10 5/8",13¾",17",20",23¼" and 26 3/8"
SIZE M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 61 and 69 cm /
2",5 1/8",8¼",11 3/8",14½",17¾",21",24" and 27 1/8"
SIZE L: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 54, 62 and 71 cm /
2",5 1/8",8¼",11 3/8",14½",17¾",21¼",24 3/8" and 28"
SIZE XL: 5, 13, 22, 30, 39, 47, 56, 64 and 73 cm /
2",5 1/8",8¾",11¾",15¼",18½",22",25¼" and 28¾"
SIZE XXL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39, 48, 57, 66 and 75 cm /
1 1/8",4¾",8¼",11¾",15¼",19",22½",26" and 29½"
SIZE XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50, 59, 68 and 77 cm /
2",5½",9",12½",16 1/8",19¾",23¼",26¾" and 30 3/8"
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 226-246-270-294-318-346 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light.
Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stockinette st - but continue the outermost 5 sts in each side in garter st until finished measurements (= bands).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 6-7-8-8-8-8 cm / 2½"-2 3/4"-3"-3"-3"-3", insert 1 marker 59-64-70-76-82-89 sts in from each side (= 108-118-130-142-154-168 sts between markers on back piece). Now dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec).
Repeat dec every 4½-4-3½-3½-3-3 cm / 1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" 9-10-11-12-13-14 more times (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 dec in total) = 186-202-222-242-262-286 sts.
When piece measures approx. 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'' - make sure that next row is from WS, work 2 ridges over the middle 14 sts in each side (i.e. 7 sts in garter st on each side of both markers - work the other sts as before).
On next row from WS, P (bands in garter st as before) while AT THE SAME TIME binding off 10 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 5 sts on each side of markers in the sides) = 78-86-96-106-116-128 sts remain on back piece and 44-48-53-58-63-69 sts on each front piece.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-58-60-66-70-74 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light.
Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on needle - see explanation above! K next round while AT THE SAME TIME binding off the 10 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 5 sts at beg and 5 sts at the end of round) = 46-48-50-56-60-64 sts.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 as body (without working sts) = 258-278-302-334-362-394 sts. Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-2-12-2-2-6 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 248-276-290-332-360-388 sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: 5 band sts, work pattern according to A.1 until 5 sts remain (= 17-19-20-23-25-27 repetitions) and finish with 5 band sts.
When A.1 has been worked, 146-162-170-194-210-226 sts remain on needle.
Work next row as follows from WS: 5 band sts, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, P 2 tog and finish with 5 band sts = 145-161-169-193-209-225 sts.
Then work rib with K over K and P over P. AT THE SAME TIME when rib measures 1-2-3-4-5-6 cm / 3/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8" – make sure that next row is from RS, work an elevation in the back of neck with short rows as follows (beg from RS and continue with rib and bands as before):
Work until 25-27-29-31-33-35 sts remain, turn and work back until 25-27-29-31-33-35 sts remain in the other side.
Turn and work until 31-33-35-37-39-41 sts remain, turn and work back until 31-33-35-37-39-41 sts remain in the other side.
Turn and work until 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts remain, turn and work back until 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts remain in the other side.
Turn and work until 43-45-47-49-51-53 sts remain, turn and work back until 43-45-47-49-51-53 sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece and work the rest of the row.
Then work 3 rows rib over all sts (continue bands in garter st as before).
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts, work pattern according to A.2 until 5 sts remain (choose diagram for your size) AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly and finish with 5 band sts = 138-154-162-186-202-218 sts on row after 1st row in A.2.
When A.2 has been worked vertically, 122-136-143-142-154-166 sts remain on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-38-41-36-44-50 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 94-98-102-106-110-116 sts.
K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS before loosely binding off with K from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 36-36-36-40-40-40 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When pocket measures 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm / 5"-5"-5"-6"-6"-6" - make sure that next row is worked from RS, switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Then work A.3 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. After A.3, loosely bind off with K from RS.
Knit another pocket.
Sew a pocket on to each front piece with duplicate sts, place pocket directly above the edge in garter st at the bottom of jacket and approx. 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''-3½''-4''-4'' from edge at the front (try the jacket on for where the pockets should be placed).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = from WS: K 2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = from RS: K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 147-3

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Lena Bindocci wrote:

Buona sera, ho ripreso a lavorare il modello in questione e sono arrivata allo sprone, esattamente ad eseguire il diagramma A1. Non ho assolutamente capito come eseguirlo, come faccio a ripeterlo, nel mio caso 19 volte? E partendo dal basso quando ho eseguito le 14 maglie a diritto sul rovescio, come proseguo con le altre? Sono totalmente in confusione mi potreste dare maggiori chiarimenti? Grazie infinite

13.06.2021 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lena, per quanto riguarda il diagramma A.1, deve ripeterlo più volte sullo stesso giro: se ha 276 maglie sul giro, con 10 maglie di vivagno avrà 276 - 10 = 266/14 (maglie con cui comincia A.1) = 19 ripetizioni sul giro. Buon lavoro!

14.06.2021 - 21:01

country flag Lena Bindocci wrote:

Cosa vuol dire \"lavorare 2 creste\" ?.. Poi non avendo i ferri circolari del n 3 ...e non li posso acquistare in questo periodo di covid-19 , potete aiutarmi a realizzare il modello con i ferri normali con semplici spiegazioni, perché sono alle prime armi. Grazie Lena

23.04.2020 - 23:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lena. 1 cresta sono 2 ferri a diritto (quindi 2 creste, 4 ferri a diritto). Per lavorare con i ferri dritti dovrebbe lavorare in parti separate; lo sprone sarebbe più comodo lavorarlo come indicato. Potrebbe individuare le maglie per il dietro (p.es taglia S: 108m) e per i davanti (taglia S: 59 per ogni davanti). Può provare a contattare via mail il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per ulteriori aiuti personalizzati. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2020 - 10:46

country flag Paola wrote:

Non capisco questo passaggio…...lavorare un’alzata sul dietro del collo a f. accorciati come segue (iniziare dal diritto del lavoro e continuare a coste e con le m. per il bordo come prima): me lo potreste spiegare meglio grazie

19.03.2019 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paola. Lavora un’alzata sul dietro per rendere lo scollo più alto sul dietro rispetto al davanti. Deve iniziare su un ferro lavorato sul diritto del lavoro, lavora le maglie del bordo davanti a legaccio, lavora le altre maglie a coste come prima. Buon lavoro!

19.03.2019 - 23:16

country flag Maartje wrote:

Wat betekenen de open vakjes bij telpatroon?

01.02.2019 - 13:35

country flag Helle Iversen wrote:

Har netop strikket denne model i Karisma-garn - er blevet utrolig lækker og flot

22.01.2014 - 12:27

country flag Christine Friedrich wrote:

Ich möchte die kommentare lesen

29.06.2013 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Sie müssen nur nach unten scrollen und können dann alle Kommentare lesen.

01.07.2013 - 08:58

country flag E V Geest wrote:

Waarom wordt er zoveel patronen met een rond breinaald gebreid.??Vermeld ook de patronen heen en weer op 2 rechte naalden .Dat is wel wat gemakkelijker. rondbreinaal

26.01.2013 - 11:45

Mirta wrote:

El nombre ALEGRO

22.01.2013 - 18:31

Mirta wrote:

Es tan ponible para toda ocasión y tan juvenil, muy lindo

22.01.2013 - 18:08

country flag Beate wrote:

Das ist mein nächstes Projekt, sobald die Anleitung geschaltet ist.

13.01.2013 - 07:52