DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 148-16
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-229
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-86-96-106-116-130 cm /
30"-34"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-51½"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm /
21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color no 711, pink/brown
And use: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 23, light beige
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
1 spool color no 01, gold

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/ US 7 – or size needed to get 12 dc x 7 rows with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Beg every row with 3 ch which replace first dc.

PATTERN: See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.
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BODY:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front. Ch 83-91-99-107-115-123 (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5mm/US 7 with 1 strand Fabel, 1 strand Baby Merino and 1 strand Glitter.
Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in the last 2 ch = 61-67-73-79-85-91 dc.
Then work 10 rows according to A.1 (5 dc in each side for band. Band is worked with 1 dc in every dc and is not included in diagram) – read CROCHET INFO.
When A.1 has been worked, there are 146-162-178-194-210-226 dc on row.
Continue to work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''.
Work next row as follows: 24-27-30-33-36-40 dc (front piece), ch 8 (= under sleeve), skip 30-32-34-36-38-40 dc from previous row (used for sleeve later), 38-44-50-56-62-70 dc (back piece), ch 8 (under sleeve), skip 30-32-34-36-38-40 dc from previous row (used for sleeve later) and 24-27-30-33-36-40 dc (front piece). Then work 1 dc in every dc/ch = 102-114-126-138-150-166 dc. Back piece = 46-52-58-64-70-78 dc, front piece = 28-31-34-37-40-44 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in every dc.
When piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½", dec 4 dc evenly (do not dec over bands). READ DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec when piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼'' = 94-106-118-130-142-158 dc.
When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', inc 6-6-6-6-6-7 sts evenly (do not inc over bands), repeat inc when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22'' = 106-118-130-142-154-172 dc.
Continue to work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', fasten off.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows:
Work 1 sc in the 5th ch of the 8 ch worked for armhole on body. Ch 3 (= 1 dc).
Then work 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. NOTE: Before continuing over the sts on upper sleeve, work 1 dc in the transition to body (to avoid hole).
Then work 1 dc in every dc over sts on upper sleeve. Work 1 dc in the transition before working 1 dc in the remaining ch under sleeve = 40-42-44-46-48-50 dc.
Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker, read DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 11-11-11-8-8-8 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" 3-3-3-4-4-4 more times (4-4-4-5-5-5 dec in total) = 32-34-34-36-38-38 dc.
Fasten off when sleeve measures 45-45-44-44-43-43 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"-17" – NOTE – shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of larger neck and wider shoulders.

POCKET FLAP:
Ch 17 (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5mm/US 7 with 2 strands Baby Merino and 1 strand Glitter. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in every ch = 15 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc until pocket flap measures 8 cm / 3''. Fasten off.
Crochet another pocket flap. Sew pocket flaps on to front piece, approx. 10 cm / 4'' from bottom edge. Fasten the pocket flaps only in the upper edge.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire opening on jacket with 2 strands Baby Merino and 1 strand Glitter as follows:
1 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in 1st ch, skip approx. 1-1½ cm / 3/8"-5/8", 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc. Work the same way at the bottom of the sleeves.

Sew 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttons on to left front piece, bottom button approx. 8 cm / 3'' from bottom edge, the top button 2 cm / 3/4'' from upper edge. Place the other buttons evenly between the bottom and top button.
Button the jacket in the crochet edge.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dc
symbols = work 2 dc in 1 dc
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Gunn Ingeborg Andersen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke oppskriften i følgende: Er diagram A en rapport som skal gjentas hele omgangen for hver linje nedenfra og oppover? Skal jeg hekle 5 staver i begynnelsen og slutten av diagram A, slik at det utgjør stolpen? I såfall får jeg ikke diagrammet til å stemme med antall staver. Vennlig hilsen Gunn

12.04.2023 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gunn Ingeborg, Stolpene er ikke en del av diagram A og, ja, det skal hekles 5 staver over begge stolpene hele veien oppover. Diagrammet leses fra bunnen oppover, og fra høyre til venstre, og hver linje is gjentatt på hele raden (bortsett fra over stolpene). God fornøyelse!

13.04.2023 - 06:49

country flag Sara Daminelli wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a trovare il filato Drops Fabel n.711 rosa/marrone. È fuori produzione o momentaneamente esaurito? Eventualmente per ottenere, più o meno, lo stesso di colore cosa mi consigli?

05.02.2021 - 09:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, se il colore non è presente nella cartella colori è fuori produzione. Può contattare il suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia che la potrà aiutare a trovare un valido sostituto. Buon lavoro!

05.02.2021 - 19:22

country flag Natalia wrote:

Buongiorno, sono una principiante. vorrei capire se devo usare tutti e tre i filati mischiati insieme o devo sceglierne uno solo e procedere per tutto il lavoro con quello. Grazie per l'aiuto

21.03.2020 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Natalia, deve lavorare con un filo per qualità, quindi 3 fili. Buon lavoro!

21.03.2020 - 21:39

country flag Pattyla wrote:

Vorrei farlo ai ferri. Mi aiutate a convertirlo? Grazie

10.10.2019 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Pattyla. Purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile modificare i modelli proposti e soddisfare a richieste così personalizzate. Può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che saprà assisterla al meglio. Buon lavoro!

10.10.2019 - 14:35

country flag Lorena wrote:

Buon giorno. Non essendo molto esperta ho una domanda per interpretare il diagramma ....prima riga ogni 6 maglie alte faccio aumento? Grazie mille dell'aiuto

23.06.2019 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lorena. I diagrammi vengono letti dal basso verso l’alto e da destra verso sinistra. Quindi la prima riga del diagramma viene lavorata come segue: 2 maglie alte nella stessa maglia, 1 maglia alta nella m successiva, 1 m alta nella maglia successiva, poi di nuovo 2 maglie alte nella stessa maglia è così via. Buon lavoro!

23.06.2019 - 11:50

country flag Katrin wrote:

Hallo! In der technischen Zeichnung dieses Modells ist der Nacken erhöht eingezeichnet. Gemäß der Anleitung scheinen der vordere und der hintere Ausschnitt gleich tief zu sein. Habe ich etwas übersehen? Vielen Dank!

12.02.2019 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katrin, die Maßskizze ist "standard", in diese Jacke häkelt man keine Erhöhung, dh der Halsausschnitt ist gleich hinten und vorne. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

12.02.2019 - 13:09

country flag Isabelle Urban wrote:

Bonjour Je voudrais réaliser ce modèle avec la laine DROPS ALASKA + GLITTER en taille L. Pouvez-vous me dire quelle quantité de laine je dois commander et quel n° de crochet utiliser ? Merci Sincères Salutations

09.02.2017 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Urban, on peut effectivement remplacer 2 fils du groupe A (= ici Fabel et Baby Merino) par 1 fil du groupe C (= Alaska par ex). Calculez ici la quantité nécessaire pour votre taille. Bon crochet!

09.02.2017 - 13:48

country flag Nicky wrote:

Dat had ik ook gedaan, elke toer afsluiten met een halve vaste en dan de nieuwe toer beginnen met 3 lossen voor het 1ste stokje. Zo zie ik toch steeds de plek om te beginnen met een mindering, 3 lossen en dan de mindering en aan het einde van een toer ook een mindering. Hoop dat ik duidelijk ben. Nog maar eens opnieuw beginnen... Als de eerste 4 cm onder de arm recht lopen dan moet de rest met de minderingen toch ook recht zijn...

01.10.2015 - 13:29

country flag Nicky wrote:

Ik had dat ook zo gedaan, gewoon doorhaken en na 4 cm minderen, maar de naad liep scheef, had ook een markeerdraadje gemaakt. Alles maar weer uitgehaald....

30.09.2015 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Nicky. Dan heb je misschien de toer verschuift. Het begin van elke toer op dezelfde plek beginnen.

01.10.2015 - 09:53

country flag Nicky wrote:

Hallo, ik heb een vraag over de mouw. Wordt die aan één stuk doorgehaakt, dus in het rond? i.p.v. een naar die dan naderjand wordt dicht genaaid? Alvast dank!

29.09.2015 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Nicky. Ja, die mouw wordt in één stuk gehaakt en in de rondte. Je hoeft geen naad te sluiten voor de mouw

30.09.2015 - 11:27