DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 148-29
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-114
Yarn group C
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150-150-150 g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 dc in width x approx. 20 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON BURNED NO 512: 2 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch. Finish row with 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dc dec.
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SLIPPER:
Worked in the round from the toe and to the back to the instep, then work back and forth until mid back of heel.

Work 4 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Nepal and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: Work 6-6-5 dc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 12-12-10 dc.
ROUND 3 (and then every odd round): Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times in total = 18-18-15 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times = 24-24-20 dc.
ROUND 8: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times = 30-30-25 dc.
ROUND 10: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times = 36-36-30 dc. Inc in size 35/37 are now done. Continue below for all sizes.
ROUND 12: * 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 6-5 times in total = 42-35 dc. Inc in size 38/40 are now done. Continue below for all sizes.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total = 40 dc.
ROUND 16: * 1 dc in each of the first 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total = 45 dc. Inc in size 41/43 are now done.

ALL SIZES:
= 36-42-45 dc on round. Work in the round with 1 dc in every dc (without finishing the rounds) until piece measures 14-16-18 cm. Then work dc back and forth over the first 24-30-32 dc (i.e. do not work over the last 12-12-13 dc on round) - remember CROCHET INFO! When slipper measures 20-22-25 cm (i.e. approx. 6-6-7 cm from where the piece was divided), insert 1 marker in the middle of piece (= 12-15-16 dc on each side of marker). On next row dec 1 dc on each side of marker, i.e. beg 2 sts before marker and work the next 4 dc tog 2 by 2 – READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 dc dec). Work 1 row without dec. Repeat dec on next row (= 2 dc dec) = 20-26-28 sts remain on row. Work 1 row without dec, place the slipper double and work tog mid back with one row sl sts through both layers (slipper now measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from toe to heel). Cut and fasten the thread.

EDGE:
Beg mid back and work a finishing edge at the top around the opening of slipper as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 1 ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round but finish round with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st). Cut and fasten the thread.

STRAP WITH BUTTON:
Work 6 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Nepal. Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch = 5 dc on row. Then work back and forth with 1 dc in every dc - remember CROCHET INFO. When strap measures 15-16-17 cm, cut the thread (cut it long enough to use for fastening the strap). Sew one short side of strap on to inside of slipper, place the strap nicely over the instep on slipper and fasten a button on the outer side of slipper - see picture.
Work another slipper the same way but sew the strap with button on to the opposite side.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Eva wrote:

Liebes Drop-Team! Werden im Teil der spiralig gehäkelten Teil ohne Kettmaschen auch die Luftmaschen am Anfang jeder Runde weggelassen? Vielen Dank für die Antwort und die tollen Muster! :)

17.12.2014 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, danke für Ihr Lob! Ja genau, Sie lassen beim Häkeln der spiralförmigen Runden auch die Luft-M weg und häkeln einfach immer mit festen M weiter. Am besten markieren Sie sich dabei den Rd-Beginn und führen den Markierer beim Häkeln mit.

21.12.2014 - 23:12

country flag Dagny Dahl wrote:

Hei! Det står at på begynnelsen av en omgang skal en fm erstattes av en lm. Vil dette si at den da skal hekle en lm og 5 fm for første omgang (for størrelse 1 og 2)? Altså totalt 6 med fm og en lm? På forhånd takk for svar!

01.12.2014 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Dagny, Ja det stemmer, i de 2 første størrelser hækler du 1 lm og 5 fm på første omgang. God fornøjelse!

02.12.2014 - 15:20

country flag Christine wrote:

Hei hei! Nybegynner på hekling så har et spørsmål! Når det står lm erstatter første fm, må jeg da minusere på antall masker som er i oppskriften, eller følger jeg bare maskene som står?:)

19.11.2014 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christine. Du skal fölge maskerne og antallene som der staar i opskriften, du skal ikke traekke noget fra.

21.11.2014 - 13:52

country flag Holly wrote:

This is my first time making slippers and I'm really excited! But then I couldn't get by the first round :( Can you tell me what "Work 6-6-5 sc in ch-ring" means? I am mostly self taught and can't figure out what this means. Thank you so much!

12.11.2014 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Holly, this pattern is given in 3 sizes, numbers apply to each size, so that you will work 6 sc in ch-ring if you are making 1st or 2nd size, and work 5 sc in ch-ring if you are crocheting larger size. Happy crocheting!

13.11.2014 - 09:21

Drshawln wrote:

Thank you very much for this awesome pattern i gave it a try and it was magnificent

07.11.2014 - 22:32

country flag Anja wrote:

Als ik de maat 41/43 wil maken klopt volgens mij het steken aantal niet. Je hebt minder steken als voor een maat kleiner

12.09.2013 - 10:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anja. Je begint wel met minder steken maar door het meerderen (en ook meer toeren) heb je na toer 16 meer v voor de grootste maat.

12.09.2013 - 10:42

country flag Bev wrote:

I tried to do the toe of this slipper and it won't work out it comes to a very small point

18.02.2013 - 06:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bev, do you have the recommanded tension of 18 sc in width x approx. 20 rows vertically = 4'' x 4'' ?

21.02.2013 - 12:00

Rosa Elisa Palomin0 wrote:

Simplemente preciosas

07.02.2013 - 17:53

country flag Nath wrote:

Chausson classe au top

24.01.2013 - 09:15

country flag Greta wrote:

Se pubblicate il modello sarà il progetto da realizzare per i regali del prossimo Natale!

16.01.2013 - 10:06