DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 147-19
DROPS design: Pattern no bf-014
Yarn group C
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm

Materials: DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-200 g colour no 109, dark pink

Or use:
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-150g colour no 109, dark pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st in 1 thread Big Fabel or 2 threads Fabel = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 13 sts by making 1 YO, on next row work the YOs twisted (i.e. in back loop of st) to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in stocking st.
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SLIPPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid back, beg at the top and work downwards.
Cast on 49-53-57 sts on needles size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Big Fabel og 2 threads Fabel. Work 4 ridges in garter st over all sts - see explanation above! Then work as follows from RS: 1 st in garter st, 17-19-21 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 13 sts), 17-19-21 sts in stocking st, 1 st in garter st. Continue this pattern - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row, inc 1 st on each side of the middle 13 sts – see INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) a total of 15-17-20 times = 79-87-97 sts. Work 1 row after last inc. Now piece measures approx. 9-10-11 cm. Continue in garter st over all sts - AT THE SAME TIME after 3 ridges, cast off 1 st at beg of the next 6 rows (i.e. 3 sts cast off in each side) = 73-81-91 sts. When 6 ridges in total have been worked, loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seam under foot and up along mid back - sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam under the foot.

Knit another slipper.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (69)

country flag Catherine wrote:

Très déçue. Fini, le chausson a une forme qui ne va pas du tout, pend sous le talon de plusieurs cms, dessous bien trop large (et oui, j'ai pris la taille recommandée et fait l'échantillon, et non, je n'ai pas fait d'erreurs en tricotant). Le rendu au bout du pied au niveau des côtes mousse n'est pas du tout tendu non plus comme sur la photo. J'ai pourtant un pied tout à fait standard.

27.08.2023 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, nous sommes désolés de lire que vous n'avez pas obtenu le résultat escompté. Ces chaussons ont eu un certain succès sur Ravelry où vous pourrez voir différentes réalisations qui pourront peut-être vous aider. Sinon, n'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici. Bon tricot!

28.08.2023 - 16:38

country flag Kimberly M wrote:

At what point in the instructions do we work the pattern to reach the finished length of 22-24-27 cm? At the instruction "when 6 ridges in total have been worked" the slipper has not yet reached the finished length. Would it be possible to supply a photograph of the slipper before the seam is sewn? This would be helpful for other projects as well that need assembly. Thank you.

21.01.2022 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kimberley, the slippers are worked top down - like in this video which is showing the seam under foot, maybe it can help you?

21.01.2022 - 15:55

country flag Marie wrote:

I casted on 53 stitches; 53 minus 13 divided by 2; knit 20, add a marker, work the 13 stitches, add another marker, finish the round. The visual markers saved me a lot of aggravation.

18.01.2022 - 17:27

country flag Kamila wrote:

The amount of increases indicates that you should repeat the A.1 pattern 2x: "Repeat inc on every row (both RS and WS) a total of 15-17-20 times" A.1 is high for 8 rows, so repeating it twice gives us 16 rows. What about the increases that go beyond the A.1 pattern repeats? What I do in that case? Keep on working revers stocking stitch on those 13 sts?

04.09.2021 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kamila, you compensate the remaining stitches by working in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

05.09.2021 - 17:48

country flag Joan Taylor wrote:

I have done the four ridges and then the first increase row but after that the instructions are scant. Do we still knit the 19 stitches and then increase? This way you will have more than 13 stitches in the middle. It would have been helpful if you had worked us through the first few rows after the first one because it leaves too many questions. Do we still use wool over when purling as it doesn’t fit right or knitting into the back of the stitch. The details of this pattern is missing.

21.04.2021 - 00:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joan, You increase either side of pattern A.1, so the middle stitches remain the same number. You increase by making a yarn over, both when working the right and wrong side; the yarn overs are then purled/knitted twisted on the subsequent row. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

21.04.2021 - 07:39

country flag Lena Holum wrote:

Jeg strikker str 38/40. Hvis man skal øke 2 m på retten og 2 m på vrangen totalt 17 gngr blir det totalt 68 m (4 x 17) i tillegg til de 53 man legger opp. Det blir 121 m, ikke 87. Det går derimot opp hvis man øker 2 m pr 2 rader. Dette er forvirrende.

25.01.2019 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. Du øker 1 maske på hver side av de 13 midterste maskene (= 2 masker) totalt 17 ganger. 17 x 2 = 34 masker økt. Du hadde 53 masker på pinnen fra før = 87 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse

30.01.2019 - 14:59

country flag Magda Rosario wrote:

Also, how many times do I repeat the A1 diagram?

12.08.2016 - 02:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Magda, you only repeat it once.

14.08.2016 - 12:06

country flag Magda Rosario wrote:

When do I start increasing? The instructions indicate to increase on the rs and ws, when do I do that? Are these increases for the sides of the slipped? And where do I increase? Thank you for your help.

12.08.2016 - 02:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Magda, you start increasing in the first row. The increases are for the sides of the slippers and you have to increase before and after working A1 on each side.

14.08.2016 - 12:10

country flag Eva Jansson wrote:

Enligt bild på mönstret ska det vara 2 bårder med hålmönster men kan inte hitta det i mönstret. Har stickat som det står men får bara ett mönster. Undrar även om hur omslaget i diagrammet ska stickas från avigsidan, rät eller avig?

09.03.2016 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, du bør hinna med mönstret 2 ggr innan du fortsätter med rätstickat över alla m. Omslaget i diagrammet stickas som vanligt så du får ett litet hål. Lycka till!

10.03.2016 - 10:07

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai des problèmes avec les augmentations en jetés. Dans ce modèle, les jetés se trouvent toujours à la frontière entre des mailles endroit et des mailles envers ou inversement. J'ai beau tricoter les jetés torse au rang suivant, quand je regarde l'endroit de l'ouvrage, du côté gauche du motif en v renversé, il n'y a pas de trou mais du côté droit du motif, il y a des énormes trous. Ce n'est donc pas du tout symétrique et c'est affreux. Pouvez-vous m'aider ?

25.09.2015 - 17:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment tricoter un jeté torse au rang suivant (la 1ère fois en "normal" et la 2ème fois version "torse", essayez éventuellement le de faire moins lâche. Vous pouvez également tout à fait utiliser une autre méthode pour augmenter si vous préférez. Bon tricot!

25.09.2015 - 18:07