DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 9-19
Materials: DROPS Baby-Merino from Garnstudio
Cardigan: 150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 25, lavender

Hat: 50 - 50 - 50 (50 - 50) g color no 25, lavender

Pants: 150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 02, off white

Socks: 50 - 50 - 50 (50 - 50) g color no 02, off-white

Mittens: 50 - 50 - 50 (50 - 50) g color no 02, off-white

Entire set:
200-200-200 (250-250) g color no 25, lavender
200-200-200 (250-250) g color no 02, off white

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Size, months: 1/3- 6/9- 12/18
Size, years: (2- 3/4).

DROPS circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.
DROPS Wooden buttons, no 503: 6 pcs.

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Remember needles sizes are guidelines only!

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front edge from the RS. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd and 4th sts from edge, cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts on return row.
Bind off for buttonhole when piece measures:
1-1-1 (1-1) cm / 3/8"-3/8"-3/8" (3/8"-3/8"),
6-6-7 (8-8) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" (3 1/8"-3 1/8"),
11-11-13 (14-16) cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-5 1/8" (5½"-6 1/4"),
16-17-19 (21-24) cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7½" (8 1/4"-9½"),
20-22-25 (27-33) cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-13").

Back:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 68-74-86 (98-104) sts (incl 1 edge st each side for seam) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and knit garter sts. Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 15-16-19 (22-23) cm / 6"-6 1/4"-7½" (8 3/4"-9") bind off 3 sts each side for armhole = 62-68-80 (92-98) sts. Put aside.

Left front piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 40-43-49 (55-58) sts (incl 6 front band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st at side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 in lavender.
Continue knitting garter st but knit front band as follows: garter st the first 5 sts towards mid front but P the 6th st on all rounds (to mark transition between cardigan and front edge).
When piece measures 15-16-19 (22-23) cm / 6"-6 1/4"-7½" (8 3/4"-9") bind off 3 sts at side for armhole = 37-40-46 (52-55) sts. Put aside.

Right front piece:
Cast on and knit as left but remember to bind off for buttonholes – see explanation above.

Sleeve:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 42-42-44 (46-46) sts (incl 1 edge st each side for seam) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 in lavender.
Knit garter st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' insert marker (these 4 cm / 1½'' are for the fold-up) – measure piece from here onwards!
Continue in garter st until piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker, now inc 1 st each side: on every 2.5-2-1.5 (1.5-1.5) cm / 7/8"-3/4"-½" (½"-½") a total of 6-9-10 (12-16) times = 54-60-64 (70-78) sts.
When piece measures 20-22-23 (26-30) cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9" (10 1/4"-11 3/4") bind off 3 sts each side, bind off in beg of next 2 rows = 48-54-58 (64-72) sts.

Yoke:
Slip all pieces onto same circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 as follows: 37-40-46 (52-55) sts front piece + 48-54-58 (64-72) sts sleeve + 62-68-80 (92-98) sts back + 48-54-58 (64-72) sts sleeve + 37-40-46 (52-55) sts front piece = 232-256-288 (324-352) sts on needle. Continue in garter st and front band.
At the same time dec on every cm / 3/8" (1 cm / 3/8" = approx 4-6 rows) to make yoke 11-12-13 (14-16) cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5½"-6 1/4") in total.
Dec by K2 tog evenly on round (do not dec over front band sts) a total of 10-11-12 (13-15) times as follows:

Size 3 months: On first row dec 26 sts on needle, following rounds dec by: 23 sts, 20 sts, 18 sts, 18 sts, 16 sts, 14 sts, 12 sts, 11 sts and on last round dec by 9 sts – at the same time, when there are 2 rounds left slip 11 sts each side towards mid front onto holders for neck.
Continuing, slip sts on the holders on every other row each side: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2 times.
After all dec rounds slip sts from holders back on needle = 65 sts. Put piece aside.

Size 6/9 months: On first round dec 26 sts on row, on following rows dec by: 23 sts, 21 sts, 19 sts, 19 sts, 16 sts, 15 sts, 13 sts, 12 sts, 10 sts and last round dec 9 sts – at the same time, when there are 2 rounds left slip 12 sts each side towards mid front onto holders for neck. Continuing, slip sts on holders on every other round: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2 times. After all round dec slip sts from holders back on needle = 73 sts. Put piece aside.

Size 12/18 months: On first round dec 26 sts, on following rounds dec by: 24 sts, 22 sts, 20 sts, 20 sts, 18 sts, 16 sts, 14 sts, 14 sts, 13 sts, 11 sts and on last round dec by 10 sts – at the same time when 2 rounds are left slip 14 sts each side towards mid front onto holders for neck. Continuing, slip sts on holders on every other row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2 times. After all round dec slip sts from holders back on needle = 80 sts. Put piece aside.

Size 2 years: On first round dec by 29 sts, on following rounds dec by: 27 sts, 24 sts, 22 sts, 20 sts, 20 sts, 17 sts, 15 sts, 13 sts, 12 sts, 10 sts, 10 sts and on last round dec by 10 sts – at the same time, when 3 rounds remain slip 12 sts each side towards mid front onto holders for neck. Continuing, slip sts on holders on every other row: 2 sts 4 times, 1 st 3 times. After all round dec slip sts from holders back on needle = 85 sts. Put piece aside.

Size 3/4 years: On first round dec by 29 sts, on following rounds dec by: 27 sts, 25 sts, 23 sts, 21 sts, 19 sts, 17 sts, 16 sts, 15 sts, 13 sts, 12 sts, 11 sts, 10 sts, 9 sts and on last round dec by 9 sts – at the same time when 3 rounds remain slip 14 sts each side mid front onto holders for neck. Continuing slip sts onto holders on every other row: 2 sts 4 times, 1 st 3 times. After all round dec slip sts from holders back on needle = 96 sts. Put piece aside.

Collar:
Cast on 4 sts. Knit 2 rows garter st.
1st row: K3, YO, K1.
2nd row: K1, YO, K4.
3rd+4th row: K.
5th row: K5, YO, K1.
6th row: K1, YO, K6.
7th + 8th row: K.
9th row: K7, YO, K1.
10th row: K1, YO, K8.
11th row: K but slip last st loosely.
12th row: bind off 8 sts, K1 (= 2 sts on row after this row).
13th row: K2 in both sts (= 4 sts on row)
14th row: K.
Repeat 1st – 14th row. Continue this collar pattern for approx 25-35 cm / 9 3/4"-13 3/4" – measure so the collar will lie loosely round the neckline. Stop after 12th row, bind off.

Assembly:
Pick up approx 75-100 sts around collar on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1. P 1 row on WS, at the same time inc/dec to the same amount of sts as on neckline.
Next row (RS) knit collar sts and neckline sts tog as follows: K first st from collar tog with first st from neckline, then knit the next 2 sts tog etc. After knitting pieces tog knit 6 rows garter sts over all sts at the same time as binding off for buttonhole on 1st row in line with the others on front band.
Bind off from WS.
Sew sleeves and side seams in one. Sew on buttons.
_______________________________________________________________


PANTS:

Size, months: 1/3- 6/9- 12/18
Size, years: (2- 3/4)
Full length: 43-49-54 (57-66) cm / 17"-19 1/4"-21 1/4" (22½"-26")
Length of inside leg: 18-22-25 (27-35) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-13 3/4")

DROPS double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm/US 0 and 1or2.
DROPS circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2.

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Remember needles sizes are guidelines only!

Rib: * K1, P1 *. Repeat from *-*.

Left leg:
Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on double pointed needle size 2 mm/US 0 in off-white and work 3 cm / 1 1/8'' in Rib.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and continue in stockinette sts. At the same time inc 2 sts on inside of leg: on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1½"-2") a total of 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts.
When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-33) cm / 6 1/4"-8"-9" (9 3/4"-13") divide piece on inside of leg (= split) and complete knitting back and forth on needle.
Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts.
When piece measures 18-22-25 (27-35) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-13 3/4") bind off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side in beg of next 2 rows = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts.
Leave piece aside.

Right leg:
Cast on and knit as left leg.

Pants:
Slip right and left leg onto same circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Work stockinette st at the same time inc mid back and dec mid front as follows:
Inc mid back: Inc 1 st each side of 2 middle sts: on every other row 8 times.
Dec mid front: Dec 1 st each side of middle 2 sts: on every other row 8 times = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts.
When piece measures 33-39-44 (47-56) cm / 13"-15 1/4"-17 1/4" (18½"-22") dec 24-28-34 (32-32) sts evenly on row = 136-140-150 (160-160) sts.
Change to double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0, insert marker mid front and continue in Rib. When Rib measures 10 cm / 4'' bind off (elastics may be used on second last round to maintain elasticity).
Piece measures approx 43-49-54 (57-66) cm / 17"-19 1/4"-21 1/4" (22½"-26").
Sew split tog on WS of each leg up to the bind off sts, then sew legs tog from mid front to mid back of pants.
_______________________________________________________________


HAT

Size, months: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18
Size, years: 2

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm / US 1, double pointed needles 2.5 mm/US 1.

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Garter st (back and forth): 1st row: K, 2nd row: K.

Hat:
Cast on 33-38-42-46 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and continue in garter st at the same time inc 1 st on right hand side and dec 1 st on left side as follows:
1st row (= RS): K2, YO (= 1 inc), knit until 4 sts left, K2 tog, K2.
2nd row (= WS): K until inc st and knit inc st into back of st, K2. Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures 5.5-6-6.5-7 cm / 2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4". Then dec 1 st on right hand side and inc 1 st on left side and continue as follows:
1st row (RS): K1, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until there are 2 sts left, YO, K2.
2nd row(WS): K2, K1 into back of st in the inc, K rest of row.
Repeat these 2 rows for a further 5.5-6-6.5-7 cm / 2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4".
Continue to inc 1 st on right hand side on every 4 row and dec 1 st on left hand side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-17-17.5-18 cm / 6 1/8"-6 3/4"-6 7/8"-7" from beg = middle of hat.
Insert a marker each side of piece and continue as follows: Dec 1 st on right hand side on every 4 rows and inc 1 st on left hand side on every other row until piece measures 21-22-22-22 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4".
Now dec 1 st on left side on every other row and inc 1 st on right side on every other row until piece measures 26.5-28-28.5-29 cm / 10½"-11"-11 1/4"-11 3/8".
Continue dec 1 st on right hand side on every other row and inc 1 st on left hand side on every other row until final measurements = 31-34-35-36 cm / 12 1/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4", bind off.

Assembly: Back of hat = the side of piece with 2 whole points and 2 half points. The middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of the hat = point sitting at the middle of the forehead.
Sew seams together with small, neat sts as follows: Sew tog back of hat by sewing tog the first half point with the first half of the first whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the first whole point with the first half of the second whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the second whole point with the last half of point. Sew hat tog mid back.

Ribbon: Cast on 4 st on a double pointed needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and K4 * do not turn piece, but pass thread behind the 4 sts, tighten thread and knit again from RS *, repeat from *-* until ribbon measures 15 to 17 cm / 6"-6 3/4", bind off. Make another ribbon. Sew each ribbon onto WS of each point on each side.
_______________________________________________________________


SOCKS:

Size, months: 3 - 6/9 - 12/18
Size, years: (2- 3/4)
(foot length): 10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4" (5½"-6")

DROPS needle size 2 mm and 2.5 mm / US 0 and 1or2
DROPS Crochet hook size 2.5 mm.

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Remember needle size are guidelines only!

Rib edge: * K1, P1 *. Repeat from *-*.

Sock:
Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm/US 0 in off-white and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (3"-3") in Rib back and forth on needle from mid back.
P1 row on WS and change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts evenly on row = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts.
Work next row from RS as follows: * K2 tog, YO *, repeat from *-*.
P1 row on WS.
K and then slip 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a holder each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm / 2½"-2 3/4"-3½" (4"-4") garter sts over the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts.
Slip sts from holder back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts up on each side of the middle of the piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts on needle.
Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8" (1"-1") dec 1 st on every other row: at beg and end of row and K2 tog each side of the 2 middle sts for 3-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") in total. Bind off and sew seam under foot and up along rib edge with small sts.
Crochet a band of chain sts on crochet hook size 2.5 mm/C measuring approx 30-35 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/4", pull through row of eyelet holes.
_______________________________________________________________

MITTENS WITH AND WITHOUT THUMB

Size, months: 1/3- 6/9- 12/18
Size, years: (2-3/4).
Hand length of mitten: 9-10-11 (12-12) cm / 3½"-4"-4½" (4 3/4"-4 3/4").

DROPS double pointed size 2 mm and 2.5 mm/ US 0 and 1or2

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Rib edge: * K2, P2 *. Repeat from *-*.

Garter st (on circular needle): 1st round: K, 2nd round: P.

Knitting tips: Knit thumbs on the 2 largest sizes.

Mitten:
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0 in off-white and work 6 cm / 2 3/8'' in Rib.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2, knit garter st and dec 8-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly on 1st round = 36-42-42 (44-44) sts. Insert a marker each side.
When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' slip 6 sts on a holder for thumb, 2 sts before marker and 4 sts after (the 2 largest sizes).
Cast on 6 new sts over the bound off sts on next row.
When piece measures 12-12-13 (14-14) cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5½"-5½") dec 1 st each side of markers: 7-8-8 (8-8) times on:
Size 3 months: Every other row.
Sizes 6/9+12/18 months and (2 + 3/4) years: Alternating every 2nd and 3rd row
= 8-10-10 (12-12) sts. Pull yarn through the remaining sts and fasten.

Thumb: Pick up 14 sts (incl 6 sts on holder) on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 round the thumb. Work garter st for 3.5-4 cm / 1 1/4"-1½".
K2 tog around until 4 sts remain on needle.
Pull thread through remaining sts and fasten.

_______________________________________________________________

PILLOW in Alaska with cables.

Size: approx 45 x 45 cm / 17 3/4" x 17 3/4"

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
500 g color no. 02, off white

DROPS Needles 5 mm /US 8
DROPS Buttons metal (nr 528): 6 pcs.

Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle 5 mm/US 8 and stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Needle size is only recommended!

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat).
Diagram is showing all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Garter st back and forth: 1st row: Knit, 2nd row: Knit.

PILLOW
With needles 5 mm/ US 8 cast on 86 sts with off white and knit 2 rows garter st, at the same time on last row inc 24 sts evenly distributed over the center 58 sts = 110 sts.
Work next row like this; 2 sts garter stitch (= edge sts), 12 sts of chart M.2, M.1A over the next 21 sts, M1B over the next 40 sts, M.1C over the next 21 sts, 12 sts of M.2, 2 sts garter stitch (= edge sts). Continue established pattern. Check gauge.
When piece measures 45 cm / 17 3/4'' knit 2 rows garter stitch (= folding edge) at the same time on first row dec 24 sts evenly distributed over the center 62 sts = 86 sts.
Now work M.2 with 2 garter stitch edge sts in each side.
When piece measures 90 cm / 35½'' place a marker, when piece measures 102 cm / 40" bind off for 6 button holes as follows: K2, 5 sts of M.2, bind off 2 sts for button hole, *work 12 sts in M.2, bind off 2 sts for button hole*, repeat from *-* 5 times, 7 sts remains, work 5 sts in M.2, end with 2 sts garter st.
On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts, and continue with M.2 with 2 sts garter stitch in each side until piece measures 104 cm / 41''.
Knit 2 row garter stitch and then bind off. Piece measures approx 105 cm / 41½".
Fold piece at marker so that the piece with button holes are placed on the outside of the pillow.
Sew side seams through all layers.
Sew in the buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 3 sts on cable needle to back of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = 1 st on cable needle to back of piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = 3 sts on cable needle to front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 9-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Maimouna wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich habe jetzt alle Einzelteile der Jacke gestrickt und frage mich, ob ich mit den Abnahmen gleich in der ersten Reihe der Passe anfange, oder ob ich erst einmal 2-3 Krausrippen stricke und dann erst mit den Abnahmen beginne. Vielen Dank im Voraus für Eure immer sehr hilfreichen Erklärungen! Maimouna

24.04.2021 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maimouna, die Abnahmen der Passen stricken Sie bei der 1. Hin-Reihe über alle Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.04.2021 - 07:26

country flag Maimouna wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich habe eine Frage bezüglich der Länge des Ärmels. Ich stricke die kleinste Größe. Ist es dann richtig, wenn der Ärmel nach Fertigstellung insgesamt 24 cm lang ist? Das heißt, 20 cm plus 4 cm für das Umkrempeln? Oder sollen es insgesamt nur 20 cm sein? Er kommt mir ein wenig lang vor. Vielen Dank im Voraus!

15.02.2021 - 07:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maimouna, die Ärmel sollte insgesamt 24 cm von der Anschlagskante messen, dh 20 cm nach der Faltkante. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.02.2021 - 09:29

country flag Dorothee wrote:

Hallo, leider ist die deutsche Übersetzung nicht korrekt. Der Schnitt der Mütze entspricht am Ende nicht dem Schnitt, der auf der bebilderten Anleitung (die ich leider erst zu spät gesehen habe) zu sehen ist. Daraufhin habe ich mir die englischsprachige Anleitung angesehen und da fiel auf, dass in der deutschen Anleitung eine Zacke vergessen wurde. Nun muss ich das Strickstück wieder aufribbeln. :-(

08.02.2021 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorothee, die Anleitung für die Mütze wurde neu übersetzt und ist nun hoffentlich etwas besser strukturiert. Ein Fehler war in der alten Anleitung zwar nicht enthalten, aber sie war leider etwas unübersichtlich, vermutlich sind Sie da beim Lesen "verrutscht". Viel Erfolg nun!

09.02.2021 - 23:21

country flag Lena wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le patron au niveau des mailles à laisser en attente pour l'encolure. 14 m de chaque côté ? devant, dos? milieu arrière? Pouvez-vous être plus explicite! Merci d'avance.

25.04.2020 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lena, les 14 mailles de chaque côté sont les 14 premières mailles sur l'endroit + les 14 premières mailles sur l'envers = 14 m de chaque côté pour l'encolure, puis vous continuez à mettre en attente 4 x 2 m et 3 x 1 m toujours de chaque côté = vous aurez 14 + 4x2 + 3x1 m en attente de chaque côté pour l'encolure, vous reprendrez ces mailles pour tricoter le col. Bon tricot!

27.04.2020 - 08:40

country flag Anki wrote:

Hej Jag stickar mössan och undrar Efter 12 cm ska man öka vart 4e varv och vartannat varv Innebär det att ökningarna blir från avigsidan?

31.03.2020 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anki, här ser du hur man gör Hur man stickar en hjälm-mössa Lycka till :)

16.04.2020 - 15:53

country flag Anna Sharp wrote:

Would you please clarify this section of the hat pattern. It’s very confusing. Do you mean increase every 4th row or increase every 4 rows? I end up with less stitches than I originally castes on. The pattern reads: “Continue to inc 1 st on right hand side on every 4 row and dec 1 st on left hand side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-17-17.5-18 cm from beg = middle of ”

03.07.2019 - 02:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sharp, correct, you first inc on every 4th row and dec on every other row 15.5-17-17.5-18 cm from beg = middle of hat., then you will dec on every 4th row and inc on every other row until piece measures 21-22-22-22 cm. This lesson shows how to knit a baby aviator hat from another pattern but could be still helpful. Happy knitting!

03.07.2019 - 07:52

country flag Maibrit Runge wrote:

Jeg er igang med trøjen. På forstykket skal der slås et antal masker op inkl 6 kantmasker mod midt og 1 i siden. Hvordan strikkes 6 kantmasker?

08.01.2018 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maibrit. I oppskriften er det forklart slik: Retstrik (frem og tilb): 1. p: Ret, 2. p: Ret. Og under Venstre Forstk slik: Strik retstrik opover men kantm således: de første 5 m mod midt foran strikkes i retstrik men den 6. m strikkes i vrang på alle p (for at markere overgangen til forstk). God Fornøyelse!

11.01.2018 - 13:30

country flag Louise Therrien wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le patron au niveau des mailles à laisser en attente pour l'encolure.

24.08.2017 - 01:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, quelle est la taille de votre gilet?

24.08.2017 - 14:13

country flag Winnie wrote:

Er ved at strikke trøjen i str 1/3 mdr, mit spørgsmål er, når der står at jeg skal lukke af til ærmegab når arb måler 20 cm, er det så inkl. de 4 cm til opsmøg, eller er det totalt 24 cm. Er det rigtig forstået at første udtagning er når arb. måler 8 cm?🤔

18.01.2017 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Winnie. Nej, du maaler fra de 4 cm ombuk, saa det er 20 cm fra merketraaden som du har sat efter de 4 cm: Når arb måler 4 cm sættes der en mærketråd (disse 4 cm er beregnet til ombuk) - herfra måles arb videre!. Du tager ud fra 4 cm (altsaa 8 cm incl ombuk)

19.01.2017 - 14:25

country flag Barbro Åhman wrote:

Jag stickar denna kofta i storlek 6/9 månader. Är det rätt att ärmarna skall vara 22 cm långa innan avm för ärmhålet? Barbro

08.09.2016 - 08:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Barbro. Ja, det er korrekt. Der er ombuk paa ermet (se billede)

08.09.2016 - 11:24