DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
DROPS Super Sale

Blue Lagoon Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with stripes, round yoke and ¾ sleeves in "BabyAlpaca Silk" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 146-10
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-038
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 6235, grey blue
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 1306, powder
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 7402, light sea green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 7219, pistachio
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 2110, wheat

And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50-50-50-75-75-75 g colour no 08, grey blue
50-50-50-50-50-75 g colour no 07, light steel blue
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 thread of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 7-7-8-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP (applies to the body):
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row/round work the YO twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES:
See diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size). Work entire pattern in stocking st. When A.1 has been worked, continue with the colour in the last stripe until finished measurements (i.e. 1 thread powder Baby Alpaca Silk (BAS) + 1 thread off white Kid-Silk (KS).

PATTERN (applies to round yoke):
See diagram A.2 (choose diagram for your size). Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of markers.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

BUTTONHOLE:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 54 cm
SIZE M: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39, 48 and 56 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 19, 27, 36, 44, 53 and 60 cm
SIZE XXL: 3, 11, 20, 28, 37, 45, 54 and 62 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47, 56 and 64 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 155-171-187-207-223-239 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread grey blue Baby Alpaca Silk (BAS) + 1 thread grey blue Kid-Silk. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 42-46-50-55-59-63 sts in from each side (= 71-79-87-97-105-113 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stocking st with 6 sts in garter st in each side (= bands). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2½ cm 5 more times (= 6 dec in total) = 131-147-163-183-199-215 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm, work STRIPES - read explanation above. When piece measures 25 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2-2½-3-3-3½-3½ cm 4 more times (= 5 inc in total) = 151-167-183-203-219-235 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, cast off the middle 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts in each side for armholes from RS (i.e. cast off 4-4-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of both markers) = 61-69-77-87-93-101 sts on back piece and 37-41-45-50-53-57 sts on each front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 38-40-40-42-42-44 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread grey blue Baby Alpaca Silk (BAS) and 1 thread grey blue Kid-Silk (KS). Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above! Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Then work in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-3½-2½-2½-2-2 cm 7-8-10-10-12-13 more times (= 8-9-11-11-13-14 inc in total) = 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-9-9-8-8 cm, work STRIPES as on body. When piece measures 38-38-37-37-36-36 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), cast off 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast off 4-4-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of marker) = 46-50-54-56-58-62 sts remain. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker, now measure piece from here! Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body = 227-251-275-299-315-339 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). Continue with stocking st and STRIPES as on body over all sts with 6 sts in garter st in each side towards mid front (1st row = from WS). AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS, dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec on every row from RS 0-1-1-1-1-3 more times (= 1-2-2-2-2-4 dec for raglan in total) = 219-235-259-283-299-307 sts. Work 1-1-2-2-3-2 cm in stocking st (work bands in garter st as before) while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-2-4-6-0-8 sts evenly on last row (= from WS, dec by P 2 tog, do not dec over bands) = 211-233-255-277-299-299 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for your size) until 7 sts remain on row, finish with 1 st in stocking st and 6 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When A.2 has been worked, 139-153-167-157-169-169 sts remain on needle. Work 1-1-1-2-2-2 cm in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-9-13-3-5-5 sts evenly on last row, i.e. from WS (do not dec over bands) = 134-144-154-154-164-164 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, * K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 8 *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain and finish with 1 YO, K 2 tog and 6 band sts in garter st. Continue in stocking st with bands in garter st. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm – adjust so that next row is from RS, dec for last buttonhole on right band, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-30-36-32-38-34 sts evenly (not over bands) = 110-114-118-122-126-130 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work an elevation in the neck with short rows as follows (1st row = from WS): K until 25-27-27-29-30-30 sts remain, turn and K back until 25-27-27-29-30-30 sts remain on the other side. Turn and K until 32-34-34-36-37-37 sts remain, turn and K back until 32-34-34-36-37-37 sts remain on the other side. Turn and K until 39-41-41-43-44-44 sts remain, turn and K back until 39-41-41-43-44-44 sts remain on the other side. Turn and K until 45-47-47-50-52-52 sts remain, turn and K back until 45-47-47-50-52-52 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece and K the entire row, then K 3 rows over all sts and cast off with K from WS. Yoke measures approx. 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm and the entire jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.09.2019
Correction: Yoke ...Work 1-1-1-2-2-2 cm in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-9-13-3-5-5 sts evenly on last row, i.e. from WS (do not dec over bands) = 134-144-154-154-164-164 sts

Diagram

symbols = 1 thread light sea green BAS + 1 thread grey blue KS
symbols = 1 thread grey blue BAS + 1 thread grey blue KS
symbols = 1 thread pistachio BAS + 1 thread light steel blue KS
symbols = 1 thread wheat BAS + 1 thread light steel blue KS
symbols = 1 thread powder BAS + 1 thread light steel blue KS
symbols = 1 thread powder BAS + 1 thread off white KS
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Nicky wrote:

I've absolutely LOVED making this cardi. I just wanted to point out that there is a mistake however in the pattern. When A.2 has been completed it gives the number of stitches on the needle (in 6 sizes) you then have to work 1-2 cms (depending on size) on the last row of which you are supposed to decrease the number of stitches according to size. There are 7 figures given here (7 sizes) There is a"7" stitch decrease that shouldn't be there.

22.08.2019 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicky, thank you very much for your feedback, pattern will be edited asap. Happy knitting!

22.08.2019 - 09:47

country flag Helena wrote:

Wordt het hele vest met dubbele draad gebreid? Als ik twee verschillende kleuren draden samen bij elkaar pak en zo brei dan krijg ik niet dezelfde strepen als op de foto. B.v. zeegroen samenpakken met grijsblauw en zo verder breien?

23.04.2019 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Helena,

Ja, het hele werk wordt met een dubbele draad gebreid; 1 draad kid silk + 1 draad baby alpaca silk. Het kan zijn dat de werkelijke kleur ietsje afwijkt van de kleur op de foto

25.04.2019 - 12:15

country flag Päivi wrote:

I finnished this lovely pattern

09.07.2015 - 20:05

country flag Dorthe Hansen wrote:

Denne model er bare så flot, og farverne er meget flottere end billed.

04.06.2013 - 09:10

country flag Patricia wrote:

Zou dit ook mooi zijn in kid silk print met witte alpaca silk

22.03.2013 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dat kan ik niet voor je beoordelen - dat is een kwestie van smaak ;o). Maar ik denk dat het wel een grappige combinatie zou kunnen zijn! Neem contact op met één van onze verkooppunten voor ondersteuning - ze hebben de garens liggen en kan je hier in ondersteunen. Veel breiplezier!

28.03.2013 - 12:14

Maru wrote:

Le pueden llamar blue degrade....hermoso

17.01.2013 - 01:09

country flag Carmen wrote:

Sunrise

11.01.2013 - 14:38

Pilar wrote:

Linda disposición de los colores

02.01.2013 - 15:53

country flag Claudia wrote:

Genau meine Farben. Auch nicht langweilig beim stricken. SUPER

01.01.2013 - 12:47

country flag Reny Zweekhorst wrote:

Ik vind hem geweldig.

15.12.2012 - 23:42