DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
DROPS Super Sale

White sand

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk” and ”Kid Silk”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 145-7
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-036
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-124-136 cm /
34½''-37¾''-41''-44''-48¾''-53½''
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm /
22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 1101, white:
300-300-350-400-400-450 g
And use DROPS KID SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 01, off white:
150-150-150-150-200-200 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 17 sts in garter st with 1 strand of each yarn = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST:
K back and forth on all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside 1 edge st in each side. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 91-101-109-119-129-139 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand of each yarn. Work rib on 1st row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - read explanation above, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Work rib for 4 cm / 1½''.
On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and K over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-17-19-21-21-21 sts evenly = 76-84-90-98-108-118 sts. Then continue in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½", insert a marker in each side of piece (vent stops here).
When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'', bind off for armholes as follows: bind off 3-4-4-5-6-7 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 70-76-82-88-96-104 sts.
Continue in garter st until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''.
Then bind off the middle 20-20-22-24-26-28 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 23-26-28-30-33-36 sts remain on the shoulder.
Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''.

FRONT PIECE:
Front piece is worked the same way as back piece but 4 cm / 1½'' shorter.
Cast on and work rib, then work in garter st as on back piece (NOTE: Do not insert marker).
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16''-16½''-17''-17¼'', bind off for armholes the same way as on back piece. Continue in garter st until front piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-18½"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20½".
Then bind off the middle 14-14-16-16-18-18 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off on every row from neck as follows: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 1 st 3-3-3-2-2-3 times = 23-26-28-30-33-36 sts remain on shoulder.
Loosely bind off all sts when front piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23½''-24½''-25¼''.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 44-46-50-52-54-56 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand of each yarn. Work rib on 1st row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Work rib for 4 cm / 1½''. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and K over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-8-8-8-8 sts evenly = 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts. Then continue in garter st until finished measurements.
When piece measures 8-8-8-7-7-7 cm / 3"-3"-3"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", inc 1 st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP.
Repeat inc every 6½-5½-5-4-3½-3½ cm / 2½"-2 1/4"-2"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" 6-7-8-9-10-10 more times (= 7-8-9-10-11-11 inc in total) = 52-56-60-64-68-70 sts.
When piece measures 50-49-49-47-45-43 cm / 19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-18½"-17 3/4"-17", insert a marker in each side of sleeve (for assembly).
Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 52-51-51-50-49-47 cm / 20½"-20"-20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-18½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind off edges. Sew in sleeves, sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st - NOTE: The section worked after the marker at the top of sleeve, should fit the bind off for armhole.
Sew side seam from armhole and down to marker on back piece (vent = 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½" measured on back piece).

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Pick up from RS approx. 90 to 110 sts along the neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 (40 cm / 16'').
K next round - while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 90-94-98-102-106-110. Then work rib (= K 1/P 1) until edge measures approx. 2½ cm / 1", loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Leonie Heine wrote:

Ik snap niet de mindering van het voor pand na de 47 cm? Hoeveel moet steken kant ik af voor de mouwinzet? Ik moet 5 steken afkanten toch aan iedere kan? Maar ik moet 88 steken overhouden dus dan moet ik meer afkanten dan die vijf steken aan iedere kant ik snap het niet????

25.04.2023 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Leonie,

Op het voorpand kant je op dezelfde manier voor de armsgaten af als op het achterpand, dus bij een hoogte van 46 cm (je breit maat XL neem ik aan) kant je 5 steken af aan elke zijkant. Daarna brei je verder en bij een hoogte van 49 cm kant je de middelste 24 steken af voor de hals . Daarna kant je nog 2 steken aan beide kanten van de hals midden voor af.

27.04.2023 - 08:00

country flag Rita wrote:

Makkelijk patroon om te breien. Ook de wol breit erg mooi en is super zacht . De mouwen heb ik wel korter gebreid want volgens het patroon worden ze wel erg lang

05.01.2022 - 20:44

country flag Van Den Doel wrote:

Als ik deze trui brei met Air hoeveel wol heb ik dan nodig voor deze trui in maat large? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord

05.12.2021 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Van Den Doel,

Hiervoor kun je de garenvervanger gebruiken. De link naar de garenvervanger staat onderaan de lijst met materialen bij ieder patroon.

07.12.2021 - 17:17

country flag Silvia Hartmann wrote:

Leider stimmen die Mengenangaben für Kid Silk nicht. Die Angabe lautet 150 g für Größe M. Das ist nicht ausreichend. Ich musste 2 Knäuel nachbestellt, das ist natürlich ärgerlich, weil die gleiche Partie Nummer nicht mehr vorhanden war und zudem zusätzliche Versandgebühren anfielen. Schade. Der Pullover ist sonst wirklich toll.

11.12.2020 - 17:05

country flag Andrea wrote:

Guten Tag, wenn beide Fäden gleichzeitig gestrickt werden, warum ist dann die Menge der Wolle unterschiedlich?

10.11.2020 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, beide Garne haben unterschiedliche Länge, DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk ist ca 167 m für 50 g und DROPS Kid-Silk ca 210 m für 25 g. In die 1. Größe brauchen Sie z.B. 6 Knäuel BabyAlpaca Silk (= 300 g) und 6 Knäuel Kid-Silk (= 150 g). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2020 - 08:09

country flag Samira wrote:

Hallo team Drops, kan ik deze trui met 1 draag Air breien? in plaats van 1 draad baby alpaca silk en 1 draad kid-silk? vr. groet en alvast dank voor uw antwoord

10.09.2020 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Samira,

Ja , je zou deze trui inderdaad met Air kunnen breien. 2 draden van kwaliteit A komen namelijk ongeveer overeen met 1 draad van kwaliteit C. Maak wel altijd een proeflapje om te controleren of de stekenverhouding juist is, en pas evt. de naalddikte aan.

13.09.2020 - 10:33

country flag Hanne Hedeman wrote:

Jeg vik gerne.strikke ovenfra og ned rindpind,efter hslskant,hvordan inddrler jeg masker hals ryg arme,og raglan udtagning alm glat.har markorer,men kan ikke regne ud 14.m ,10 cm.pind 6/1/2, drops air\r\nSoS.hanne

09.06.2020 - 12:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Design avd har dessverre ikke muligheten til å regne om denne genseren, slik at den kan strikkes overfra og ned. mvh DROPS design

09.06.2020 - 14:25

country flag Gabriele Bursy wrote:

Hi. Wird der Pullover white Sand mit 2 verschiedenen Garnen gleichzeitig gestrickt? Das geht aus der Anleitung nicht hervor. Danke.

23.09.2019 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bursy, ja genau, hier wird man mit 1 Faden BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 Faden Kid-Silk gleichzeitig stricken, bzw mit einem Faden jeder Qualität. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.09.2019 - 10:26

country flag Josefin wrote:

Hej, går det att sticka slätstickning istället för rät?

02.09.2018 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Josefin. Du må gjerne strikke glattstrikk om du ønsker det, men vær obs på at rillestrikk har en mye tettere strikkefasthet i høyden. Du vil derfor få ferre omganger om du velger å strikke glattstrikk. God fornøyelse.

03.09.2018 - 14:58

Hanna wrote:

Hi. I made this jumper recently and it's really lovely but it smells horrible, especially when it gets even slightly wet. Is there a way to get rid of the smell?

31.03.2017 - 10:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hanna, please contact your DROPS store for any further information about the yarn, yarn care ... They will be able to help you with tips & advices. Happy knitting!

31.03.2017 - 13:34