DROPS / 148 / 34

Mena by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest - jacket in ”Alpaca Bouclé” and “Lace”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ab-033
Yarn group C and A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 0100, off white
and use: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5.5 mm / US 9 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with Alpaca Bouclé = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 (80 cm / 32'') - for edges in garter st.
DROPS design: Pattern no ab-033
Yarn group C and A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 0100, off white
and use: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st with Alpaca Bouclé = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (80 cm) - for edges in garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 2.10 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 2.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 2.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 3.30 £ /50g
DROPS Lace uni colour DROPS Lace uni colour 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Lace mix DROPS Lace mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
The jacket is worked in stripes as follows:
2 rows Alpaca Bouclé
2 rows Lace
Repeat these 4 rows upwards.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on needle in one. Start at the top of front piece and cast on for back piece afterwards.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 104-108-110-114-118-120 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alpaca Bouclé. Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle - see explanation above. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Then work in stocking st and PATTERN with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 18-18-20-20-21-21 cm, cast on 5 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 114-118-120-124-128-130 sts. Continue with pattern in stocking st but work the outermost 6 sts in each side in garter st.
When piece measures 33-34-37-38-40-41 cm, cast on 25-27-29-30-32-33 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 164-172-178-184-192-196 sts. Continue with pattern in stocking st but work the outermost 30-32-34-35-37-38 sts in each side in garter st. When piece measures 37-38-41-42-44-45 cm, cast on 28-28-32-32-34-34 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 220-228-242-248-260-264 sts.

BACK PIECE:
= 220-228-242-248-260-264 sts on row. Continue with pattern in stocking st with 6 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 79-82-87-90-94-97 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now finish the piece with 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé. Work in garter st back and forth over all sts until piece measures 83-86-91-94-98-101 cm, then loosely cast off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew edge A and edge B - see chart - tog inside 1 edge st = side seam. The remaining opening is left armhole. Repeat the same way with edge C and edge D on the other side.


Diagram

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 148-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Michelle 05.04.2019 - 23:43:

Bonjour Est ce que "Continuer en point fantaisie et jersey mais tricoter les 6 m de chaque côté au point mousse." signifie point fantaisie (Lace et alpaca ) et les 6 mailles du bord en mousse juste alpaca bouclé ?

DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 11:16:

Bonjour Michelle! Vous travaillez les 6 mailles de chaque cote au point mousse en alternant les 2 qualités comme indiqué. Les mailles au milieu (entre les 6 mailles de chaque cote) sont tricotees en jersey en alternant les 2 qualités comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

Alice Faccani 22.01.2019 - 13:49:

Purtroppo ho sbagliato in pieno la taglia facendolo troppo grande. Avevo paura che una xl non bastasse e ho fatto la doppia x. Adesso è troppo largo e mi ingoffa troppo come modello. Come tipologia di modello va bene per chi è di taglia contenuta. Suggerisco, oltre che fornire l'altezza e la tg della modella, di fornire qualche dettaglio sul rapporto tg della modella e tg del maglione mostrato in foto. In questo modo forse si riesce a capire la vestibilità e le proporzioni di vestibilità.

Ritta 20.12.2018 - 08:35:

Are the edge stitches knitted with alpaca boucle or do they change every 2 rows to lace too?

DROPS Design 20.12.2018 kl. 11:57:

Hi Ritta. You work PATTERN across the edge sts too. Happy knitting

Aissela Laudo 24.11.2018 - 12:41:

"Quando il lavoro misura 18-18-20-20-21-21 cm, avviare 5 nuove m alla fine dei 2 ferri successivi . -5 maglie alla fine del 1° e 5 alla fine del 2°? - con metodo a occhiello o cavo?voi come lo avete fatto? - meglio farlo su righe con boucle o lace? Grazie !

DROPS Design 24.11.2018 kl. 16:40:

Buongiorno Aissela. Deve aumentare 5 maglie alla fine del primo ferro e 5 alla fine del secondo. Può seguire il metodo spiegato nel video che alleghiamo. È indifferente con quale filato avvia le maglie. Buon lavoro!

Hadar 08.11.2018 - 16:03:

Just so i get this right, i knit the garter edge in the start with one thread of alpaca boucle and then every two rows i have to change the threads from lace to alpaca boucle, and at the end i do a garter stitch with 2 threads of alpaca boucle? do i cut the yarn eack time i'm switching to the other or do i continue with the thread i left 2 rows before?

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 08:27:

Dear Hadar, since you only work 2 rows each yarn you don't need to cut the yarn - just let it follow upwards - see video about stripes here. Happy knitting!

Du Sablon 03.01.2017 - 22:10:

Point de fantaisie est tout en l'endroit où mousse Merci

DROPS Design 04.01.2017 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Mme Du Sablon, on tricote en jersey en alternant les 2 qualités comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

Annika Thomas 17.04.2016 - 20:50:

Jag har precis stickat klart den här modellen. Av sammanlagt 10 garnnystan jag köpt (enligt mönstret) har jag hälften, dvs 5 st kvar. Kanske behöver ni ändra i garnåtgången? Eftersom jag köpt mitt garn från garnaffären.se antar jag att det inte heller går att få pengarna tillbaka för allt det garn som blir över. Kan ni hjälpa mig med det?

DROPS Design 29.04.2016 kl. 10:27:

Hej. Om du har riktig stickfasthet så ska garnåtgången vara riktig på detta mönster. Ang. retur av garn så får du höra med återförsäljaren om de kan hjälpa dig. Mvh DROPS Design

Rebecca Prinz 05.02.2016 - 00:04:

Hallo :) Ich wollte mal fragen, ob es irgendwo eine Größentabelle gibt, die die ganzen Maße der einzelnen Kleidergrößen beinhaltet? Danke und beste Grüße!

DROPS Design 06.02.2016 kl. 09:28:

Ja, die Maßsizze finden Sie ganz am Ende der Anleitung! Die Zahlen stehen in der Reihenfolge der einzelnen Größen.

Giorgia Albertano 11.12.2015 - 18:16:

è possibile sostituire il filato DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ con un il filato NEPAL o AIR (o un altro filato non bouclè)? se si, utilizzo la stessa quantità di filato? grazie in anticipo, i vostri prodotti sono stupendi.

DROPS Design 11.12.2015 kl. 21:13:

Buonasera Giorgia, DROPS Alpaca Bouclè è un filato del gruppo C come Nepal o Air, quindi può usarli in alternativa a patto che il suo campione corrisponda a quello indicato. Utilizzando però un filato diverso l'aspetto del lavoro finito sarà diverso da quello in foto. Provi a vedere qui come calcolare la quantità di filato necessaria. Buon lavoro!

Janin 15.03.2015 - 21:09:

Hallo, hätte mal eine Frage zu den Randmaschen. In der Anleitung steht das man ab 4 cm glatt rechts strickt mit jeweils einer Randm. Hinr wird ja rechts und Rückr links gestrickt. Wird also die 1. und letzte M in der Hinr auch rechts und die 1. und letzte M in der Rückr links gestrickt? Ist das richtig? Oder werden die Randm. anders gestrickt wie zum Beispiel beim Knötchenrand alle Randm ob Hin- oder Rückreihe nur rechts? Über eine kurzfristige Antwort wäre ich sehr dankbar.

DROPS Design 15.03.2015 kl. 22:48:

Bei uns werden die Rand-M in der Regel kraus rechts gestrickt (Hin- und Rück-R rechts), so auch bei diesem Modell. Das wird in der Anleitung gleich ergänzt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

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