DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 23-32
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-032-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 0506, dark grey eco
100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 0501, light grey eco

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (50 or 60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 2 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to dec in V-neck):
Dec inside of 1 edge st which is worked K on all rows. All dec are done from RS.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to rib in V-neck):
Beg 1 st before st with marker, slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1, pass the slipped sts over.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 188-204-232-244-260 sts on circular needle size 2 mm with dark grey eco Alpaca. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and light grey eco. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 32-36-40-40-44 sts evenly = 156-168-192-204-216 sts. Then work in stocking st and PATTERN - see explanation above. When piece measures 27-29-32-33-34 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 sts for armhole, work 39-42-48-51-54 sts pattern as before (= left front piece), slip the last 7 sts worked on a stitch holder for V-neck at the front, work 32-35-41-44-47 sts pattern as before (= right front piece), cast off 7 sts for armhole, work 71-77-89-95-101 sts pattern as before (= back piece) and cast off the last 3 sts for armhole, cut the thread. Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 71-77-89-95-101 sts. Continue pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-3-4-4 times and 1 st 3-3-4-3-3 times = 51-57-63-67-73 sts. When piece measures 38-41-45-47-49 cm, cast off the middle 21-23-27-29-31 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-16-17-18-20 sts remain on shoulder. Work pattern until piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm and then loosely cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 32-35-41-44-47 sts. Continue pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME dec for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME dec
for V-neck towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP 1: Dec 1 st every 4 rows a total of 8-9-11-12-13 times. After all cast offs, 14-16-17-18-20 sts remain on shoulder. Work pattern until piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm and then loosely cast off (cast off on same row in pattern as on back piece).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 32-35-41-44-47 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

ARMHOLE EDGE:
Knit up approx. 72 to 94 sts at the one armhole on double pointed needles size 2 mm with dark grey. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 88-92-100-108-112. Then work rib = K 2/P 2. When armhole edge measures 3 cm, LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Repeat around the other armhole.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid back and knit up approx. 96 to 128 sts around the neck (incl the 7 sts from stitch holder at the front) on circular needle size 2 mm with dark grey eco. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 123-127-139-147-159 sts (do not inc over the middle 7 sts at the front). Place a marker in the middle st in front. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) but work the middle st at the front K with 2 P sts on each side (count outwards from mid front to find out how the rib starts mid back). AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round in rib, dec 2 sts mid front - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every other round 3 more times. When neck edge measures 3 cm, LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

symbols = light grey eco
symbols = dark grey eco
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, ” tour suivant ainsi : Rabattre 4 m pour l'emmanchure…” Pourquoi diviser les mailles à rabattre ? Je n’arrive pas à un joli résultat. Ne pourrais-je pas rabattre les 7 mailles de l’emmanchure d’un seul coup et terminer le tour par les 71-77-89-95-101 m jacquard du dos ? Cordialement, Marie

15.01.2023 - 19:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, le début des tours se fait sur le côté, raison pour laquelle on rabat d'abord les 4 premières mailles puis les 3 dernières mailles du tour (en plus des 7mailles de l'autre côté pour la 2ème emmanchure) pour que les emmanchures soient bien placées sur les côtés. Bon tricot!

16.01.2023 - 09:35

country flag Susanne Krause wrote:

Ich bin am HalsbündchenTipp zum Abnehmen 2...sie schreiben 1 Masche vor derMarkierung 2 Maschen abnehmen??? Welche Markierung meinen Sie...das ist für mich nicht ersichtlich und finde auch keinen Hinweis darauf? LG

21.07.2022 - 08:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, Bei der deutschen Version scheint etwas zu fehlen: 1 R re str und GLEICHZEITIG gleichmäßig verteilt auf 123-127-139-147-159 M zunehmen (nicht über die mittleren 7 M vorne zunehmen). Setzen Sie eine Markierung in die mittlere M vorne. Dann im Rippenmuster stricken (= 2 M re/2 M li), aber die Mittel-M auf der Vorderseite mit 2 Links-M auf jeder Seite re stricken (von der vorderen Mitte nach außen zählen, um herauszufinden, wie das Rippenmuster in der hinteren Mitte beginnt).

31.07.2022 - 23:26

country flag Welada Albazzaz wrote:

Beg 1 st before st with marker, slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1, pass the slipped sts over. i m not sure i understood the decrease tip2 i have 1 k stitch in the middle of the rib i have to take the stitch before this stitch together with the k stitch and slip them together then k1 and slip the 2 stitches together over this new k1.. and this stitch is going to be my k stitch in the middle of the rib.. did i get that right? and thank you

16.04.2022 - 06:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Albazzaz, not exactly, you have to work until 1 stitch remain before the K1 in the middle of neck, then slip these 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit the next stitch, and slip the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch. This video shows also how to work this decrease-tip-2. Happy knitting!

19.04.2022 - 10:51

country flag Welada Albazzaz wrote:

I didn't understand dec tip 1 .. can you help me please?

13.04.2022 - 02:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Welada, Decrease tip-1 is when you are decreasing for the V-neck and are working back and forth. You only decrease from the right side. There is 1 edge stitch by the neck (on each side of the neck) so on one shoulder you decrease before the edge stitch by the neck, on the other shoulder after the edge stitch by the neck. After the edge stitch you slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over. Before the edge stitch you knit 2 together. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

13.04.2022 - 08:55

country flag Lien wrote:

Hei, kan det være en feil med mål i oppskriften? Strikker denne i str. 11/12 år. Skal omkrets virkelig være 84 cm? Det er ganske stort. Mitt arbeid måler kun 60 cm, og det er ikke noe feil med strikkefastheten min. Takk på forhånd for svar.

05.11.2020 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lien. Om du håller stickfastheten ( 26 m x 34 p glstrikk på 10 x 10 cm) så ska du ha 2,6 m / cm. På bolen har du 216 m och 216 m/2,6 = 83,1 cm så måtten i måttskissen ska vara riktiga. Mvh DROPS Design

06.11.2020 - 12:13

country flag Anita wrote:

Salve, in merito alle diminuzioni applicate alle coste del collo a V, va passata senza lavorarla la maglia centrale e quella precedente?

24.04.2019 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anita. Sì esatto, deve passare senza lavorare la maglia centrale è quella precedente. Buon lavoro!

25.04.2019 - 08:42

country flag Ute Rudolf wrote:

Hab es selber rausbekommen. Man liest die Strickschrift einmal von recht nach links und wenn man die Rückreihe strickt dann von links nach rechts. Also zu deutsch " wie der Ochse pflügt" . :-)

23.07.2017 - 18:51

country flag Ute Rudolf wrote:

Hallo und guten Abend , ich stricke gerade diese wunderschöne Weste und will nun den Rücken in Reihen fertig stricken. Wie muss ich nun das Muster in der Rückreihe stricken? Linke Maschen in der Farbe wie sie erscheinen? Oder linke Maschen laut Strickschrift? Oder? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

21.07.2017 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rudolf, von der rechten Seite lesen Sie das Diagram von rechts nach links (= rechte Maschen), und von der Rückseite lesen Sie das Diagram von links nach rechts (= linke Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.07.2017 - 09:00

country flag Annette Andersen wrote:

Hej. Er der nogensteder anvisning på hvordan man strikker farvet mønster på vrangpind?

30.12.2015 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Ja klike på "Video-knappen" og se første video i listen. God fornøjelse!

25.01.2016 - 14:53

country flag Johanne wrote:

Bonjour, pour la taille 3/4, après avoir fait les diminutions, il me reste 156m, tel que mentionné. À 27cm de hauteur totale, si je compte le nombre de mailles pour faire le rang suivant, j'obtiens un total de 163m. De plus, les devants droit et gauche n'ont pas le même nombre de mailles (droit: 39m et gauche: 32m). Est-ce une erreur?

05.12.2015 - 02:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Johanne, on tricote effectivement 39 m pour le devant gauche mais on glisse les 7 dernière de ces 39 m en attente pour l'encolure, il reste bien 32 m pour le devant gauche, comme on en a pour le devant droit. Bon tricot!

07.12.2015 - 09:38