DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 140-40
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-104
Yarn group C
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HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L
Head circumference: 52/54 cm - 56/58 cm / 20½"/21 1/4" - 22"/22 3/4"

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in color no 0517, medium gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm /16'') size 4 mm / US 6 - for rib.
DROPS SILVER ANTIQUE BUTTON NO 533: 2 pieces
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NECK WARMER:
Size: one-size
Circumference: approx. 60 cm / 23½''.
Height: approx. 34 cm / 13½''

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
250 g color no 0517, medium gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 4 mm / US 6 - for rib.
DROPS SILVER ANTIQUE BUTTON NO 533: 4 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern from RS.
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HAT:
Piece is first worked back and forth on circular needle and then in the round.
Cast on 86-94 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from WS, then work as follows: 6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 6 sts in garter st.
Continue rib and in garter st in each side until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Now work as follows: 6 sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 74-82 sts and finish with 6 sts in garter st. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', bind off the first 6 sts on needle, then work in the round with A.1 over all sts = 80-88 sts.
When piece measures 20-21 cm / 8"-8 1/4'', work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - until finished measurements.
Work in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly every 3rd round a total of 5 times = 20-28 sts remain on round.
Now K2 tog around, cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts. Tighten tog and fasten.
The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm / 9 3/4"-10 1/4" vertically. Sew 2 buttons on to flap at the bottom of hat, sew through both layers.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Nepal.
K 1 row from WS, then work as follows - from RS: 6 sts in garter st, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 sts in garter st. Continue like this.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, diagram A.1 over the next 50 sts and finish with 6 sts in garter st.
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', bind off 6 sts in each side = 50 sts. Cut the thread. Put piece aside.
Knit another piece the same way.

Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8, work sts from one piece back on needle, work sts from the other piece back on needle and cast on 6 sts at end of row = 112 sts.
Worked back and forth on needle as follows: 6 sts in garter st (band), diagram A.1 over the next 100 sts, 6 sts in garter st (band).
Continue like this until piece measures 34 cm / 13½''.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, then work as follows – AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2 sts evenly: 6 sts in garter st, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 sts in garter st = 114 sts.
Work rib for 4 cm /1½", then bind off with K over K and P over P. Place bands on top of each other and sew on 4 buttons through both layers.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.09.2012
under NECK WARMER: ..... and finish with 6 sts in garter st = 114 sts. Work rib for 4 cm /1½", then bind off with K over K and P over P. Place bands ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Moraima wrote:

I'm confused with the instruction about following the a.1 diagram for the pattern 104 neck warmer. Please help. Can you show on video?

18.10.2013 - 01:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moraima, in the diag. 1square=1st x 1row. Start at the bottom corner on the right side, read it towards the left on RS rows (or every round when worked in the round), and from right towards the left on WS rows. Happy knitting!

18.10.2013 - 10:04

country flag Fao wrote:

Ich versteh den Anfang nicht. Da steht es wird in Hin und Rückreihen gestrickt. Im selben Satz steht das man mit Rundnadeln stricken soll. Wie geht den Rückreihen bei Rundnadeln?

04.10.2013 - 22:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo, in diesem Video sehen Sie das Prinzip, wie man auf einer Rundnadel in Hin-und Rückreihen strickt. Es wird dort glatt re gestrickt, gilt aber analog auch für Muster.

07.10.2013 - 09:27

country flag Raisa Jaako wrote:

Puuttuuko tästä ohjeesta tasona neulottaessa käytettävä mallineulepiirros:tasona neulottaessahan mallikerta on 1oikein,1nurin (neulottaessa oikealta vasemmalle) ja 1nurin,1oikein (neulottaessa vasemmalta oikealle),sitten neulotaan 2 kerrosta OIKEAA:oikealta vasemmalle ja vasemmalta oikealle?

09.09.2013 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Ohjeen piirroksen merkkien selitykset käsittelevät silmukat sekä oikealta että nurjalta puolelta.

09.09.2013 - 13:45

country flag Bettina wrote:

Die Mütze gefällt mir sehr gut. Vor allem die angenähten Knöpfe machen etwas her. Ich überlege, sie für diesen Winter zu stricken. Sehr schön.

08.09.2013 - 17:47

country flag Kathy Kinrade wrote:

I am having trouble with this pattern.When I am on the wrong side it is telling me to purl across , then on the right side purl across.Shouldn't be purl on one side then knit on the other?

29.03.2013 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kinrade, Row 3 will be P from WS (and K when worked in the round = from RS), Row 4 will be K from WS (and P from RS when worked in the round). Happy knitting!

29.03.2013 - 16:12

Sleepyhead wrote:

Started knitting this hat and would love someone would explain me if I need to make any change to the chart when it comes the point that I have to knit in the round : should I knit all empty squares as knits? and the crossed ones as purls? as I understand when I start knitting in the round is always from the right side...thanks in advance!

27.03.2013 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sleepyhead, correct, worked in the round A1 will be worked : K all empty squares and P all crossed. Happy knitting!

29.03.2013 - 14:58

country flag Sayuri wrote:

Hi there My questions are: When I am going to cast off 6 sts in each side, do I have to k the other 50 sts to reach the other side to cast off 6 sys? When it said " Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8, work sts from one piece back on needle, work sts from the other piece back on needle and cast on 6 sts at end of row = 112 sts."that mean cast 6 sys and then put back the 50 sys,50 sys and cast 6sts=112 sys? Thanks for your help

19.03.2013 - 02:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sayuri, when piece measures 20 cm, you cast off the first 6 sts, work the other sts as before and cast off the last 6 sts. And then you are correct, you then cast on 6 sts, work both pieces ( 50 sts 2 times) and cast on 6 sts) = 112 sts. Happy knitting!

19.03.2013 - 10:08

country flag Sayuri wrote:

I am having trouble with the diagram. When it say "6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 6 sts in garter st. Can anyone clarify what mean 6 sts in garter st. 6 sts in garter st = k k k k k k?

14.03.2013 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sayuri, 6 sts in garter st are 6 sts you will work knitwise from RS as well as from WS. Happy knitting!

15.03.2013 - 09:46

country flag Graziana Corica wrote:

Sareste così gentili da fornirmi le spiegazioni per la realizzazione di questo modello da eseguire con i ferri normali e non con quelli circolari.Grazie infinite rimango in attesa di una vostra risposta . Graziana

13.03.2013 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno, lo scaldacollo è lavorato avanti e indietro sui f. circolari, non in tondo, per cui è possibile lavorarlo sui f. dritti seguendo le spiegazioni indicate. Per quanto riguarda il cappello, la prima parte è lavorata avanti e indietro, l'ultima in tondo, ma è a m. legaccio, quindi e possibile lavorarlo normalmente sui f. dritti, aggiungendo una cucitura alla fine. Buon lavoro!!

14.03.2013 - 13:26

country flag Oleco wrote:

Hallo, ist es richtig, dass man bei der Mütze 1 re., 1 li. im wechsel auf der Rückreihe dann so wie sie erscheinen sstrickt? dann 1 reihe re. und darauf 1 reihe li.???? Ich finde das Musterbild ist sehr irritierend.

21.02.2013 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo, die ersten beiden R sind so, wie Sie es beschrieben haben, aber kommt es darauf an, ob Sie in Runden oder Reihen stricken, daher ist in der Legende zum Diagramm beides angegeben. In Runden stricken Sie 1 Rd re und 1 Rd li, in Reihen stricken Sie beide Reihen rechts, dann wieder 1 re/1 li im Wechsel etc.

22.02.2013 - 11:33