DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 143-30
DROPS design: Pattern no o-311
Yarn group D and E
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
Color no 19, medium gray: 200-250-300 g
And use: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
Color no 39m, grape blue: 400-500-600 g

Or use:
Materials: DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
Color no 07, dark jeans blue : 150-200-200 g
And use: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
Color no 39m, grape blue: 400-500-600 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 7 mm / US 10.75 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st with Vienna = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 6 mm / US 10 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 13 sts in garter st with Snow = 10 cm in width.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to front and back piece when working back and forth on needle):
All dec are done from RS. Dec 1 st in each side as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 edge st in garter st.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to back piece when working in the round on needle):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.

DECREASE TIP 3 (applies to garter st in Snow):
Dec 1 st by K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure when piece is flat, it is important not to stretch the piece when measuring.
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FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 64-70-76 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Snow. Work in GARTER ST - read explanation above - for 6-6-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4" (1st row = RS). Then switch to Vienna or Melody and circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75, work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 12-13-14 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-5½".
On next row from RS, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP 1 = 2 sts dec. Then repeat dec every 4 rows.
When piece measures 20-21-22 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4", slip all sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 158-176-194 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Snow. Work in garter st for 6-6-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4" (1st row = RS).
Then switch to Vienna and circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75, work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 12-13-14 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-5½". Insert a marker after 47-53-59 sts in from each side = 64-70-76 sts between markers on back piece, move the markers upwards when working.
On next row from RS, dec 1 st in each side of piece and on each side of every marker - READ DECREASE TIP 1 and 2 = 6 sts dec. Then repeat dec every 4 rows. Continue until piece measures 20-21-22 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" - NOTE: Adjust so that same no of rows have been worked as on front piece.

PONCHO:
Slip all sts on to same needle, insert 1 marker in every transition between front and back piece = 4 markers in total (incl the 2 markers on back piece), move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Then work in the round in stockinette st over all sts - AT THE SAME TIME continue dec on each side of every marker every 4th round until a total of 11 dec have been worked (counted from 1st dec), then dec every other round 0-2-4 times = 134-142-150 sts remain.
Continue until piece measures 44-46-48 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-19" (all dec are now done).
On next round switch to Snow and circular needle size 6 mm / US 10, now work in GARTER ST - read explanation above - until finished measurements. Work 4 rounds in garter st, then dec 20 sts - READ DECREASE TIP 3 - evenly on next round. Repeat dec of 20 sts evenly on round when piece measures 50-52-54 cm / 19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4", then dec 32-34-36 sts evenly on round when piece measures 55-57-59 cm / 21½"-22½"-23 1/4" = 62-68-74 sts remain.
Continue until piece measures 58-61-64 cm / 22 3/4"-24"-25 1/4". Now measure piece from here.

COLLAR:
= 62-68-74 sts. Continue in the round with garter st until collar measures 7 cm / 2¾''. On next round inc 8 sts - READ INCREASE TIP - evenly on round. Repeat inc with 8 sts every 7 cm / 2¾'' 2 more times (3 times in total), then inc 8-4-2 sts evenly when collar measures 28 cm / 11'' = 94-96-100 sts on needle.
Continue in garter st until collar measures 34 cm / 13½'', loosely bind off all sts.

SPLIT EDGES:
With Snow and circular needle size 6 mm / US 10, pick up from RS 26-28-30 sts inside 1 edge st along side of one split. Work back and forth 6 rows in garter st as edge, loosely bind off all sts. Pick up and knit the same way along other side of split. Place edge on front piece over edge on back piece, fasten short sides at the top of split with a couple of small stitches.
Repeat along the split on other side of poncho.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag GLIKSON Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour Pourriez-vous svp m'indiquer le nombre de pelotes pour la raille FR 42-44 ? Merci

25.10.2023 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Glikson, vous trouverez les quantités requises par couleur et par taille au début des explications et au poids pur chaque couleur, soit part ex 150 g DROPS Fabel/50 g la pelote= 3 pelotes écru en taille S. Pour choisir votre taille, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma en bas de page. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

26.10.2023 - 06:50

country flag Babe0685 wrote:

Hallo ! Danke für die schnelle Antwort! Heisst das für die 2. Größe nun das ich 1x 4 Maschen abnehme und 2 Runden später nochmal vor und nach der Markierung? Und damit sind die Abnahmen abgeschlossen? Bin nicht dicher auf was sich die 8 Maschen in eurer Antwort beziehen. Es ist aber richtig, dass ich nur noch vor und nach den Markierungen abnehme (ab Poncho Teil) und nicht mehr am Anfang/Ende? Liebe Grüße und vielen Dank!

24.11.2016 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Babe0685, nachdem Sie 11 Abnahmen schon gearbeitet haben, dann müssen Sie wie zuvor noch 2 M in jeder 2. R abnehmen, dh je 1 M beidseitig jeder 4 Markierung = 8 Abnahmen pro Abnahme Runde (1 M vor und 1 M nach jede der 4. Markierungen = 8 Abnahme). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.11.2016 - 08:49

country flag Babe0685 wrote:

Hallo! Danke für die tolle Anleitung, die auch wirklich gut verständlich ist. Bei den Abnahmen für den Poncho verstehe ich nicht was mit 0-2-4 × Abnehmen in jeder 2. Reihe gemeint ist. Also konkret was 0-2-4 bedeutet und wo die Abnahmen zu machen sind. Auch vor und nach den Markierungen? Vielen Dank vorab für Eure Hilfe! Liebe Grüße

24.11.2016 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Babe0685, diese 0-2-4 sind je nach Größe, dh in der 1. Größ nehmen Sie keine weitere Masche ab = 134 M. In der 2. Größe nehmen Sie in jeder 2. Reihe 2 Mal ab (= 142 M.) und in der letzte Größe nehmen Sie in jeder 2. Reihe 4 Mall ab (= 150 M.). Es wird beidseitig jede Markierung abgenommen (= vor und nach jeder Markierung) = 8 Maschen werden in jeder Abnahmen Reihe abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.11.2016 - 16:08

country flag Malene Haarder wrote:

På diagrammet er der indtegnet et skuldermål med stiplede linjer, men jeg kan ikke se at nogen af målene svarer til skuldermålene. Har i skulder målene for de tre størrelser, så man kan være sikker på, at det passer?

07.06.2015 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malene. Vi har desvaerre ingen maal til skuldrene.

08.06.2015 - 14:11

country flag GOFFART Lucie wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais réaliser le poncho en laine plus fine. Vous parler du nombres de gr qu'il faut mais je ne vois nulle part à combien de mètres correspond ce poids. N'ayant pas de magasin à proximité de chez moi, pourriez-vous me dire combien de mètre de laine me faudrait-il? Merci d'avance, Lucie

29.03.2014 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Goffart, pour toute information complémentaire sur nos laines, cliquez sur les liens vers les nuanciers (à droite de la photo, sous les fournitures), et n'hésitez pas à contacter par mail ou téléphone votre détaillant DROPS en Belgique. Bon tricot!

31.03.2014 - 08:53

country flag Maaike wrote:

Ik kom niet uit het stuk onder het kopje 'poncho'. Graag een iets uitgebreidere en specifiekere uitleg. 'ga TEGELIJKERTIJD verder met minderen aan elke kant van elke markeerder elke 4e nld tot in totaal 11 minderingen gemaakt zijn (geteld vanaf de 1e mindering) en minder dan om de nld 0-2-4 keer = 134-142-150 st over'

06.03.2014 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Maaike. Je hebt 4 markeerders geplaatst in je werk. Je breit nu verder in tricotst over alle st en tegelijkertijd minder je in elke 4e nld (zie tip voor het MINDEREN-2) in totaal 11 keer. Minder daarna om de nld (in elke 2e nld) nog 0, 2 of 4 keer afhankelijk van welke maat je maakt.

07.03.2014 - 10:31

country flag Maaike wrote:

Ik wil deze poncho dolgraag breien, maar het omrekenen van het patroon vind ik erg lastig. Bieden jullie hierbij ook hulp? De wolwinkel heeft hier geen tijd voor. Stekenverhouding bij mij: tricotsteek: 15 st. x 20 nld = 10 x 10 cm Ribbelsteek: 18 st. = 10 cm breed Moet ik het aantal steken qua vermeerderen/verminderen ook aanpassen?

22.02.2014 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Maaike. Wij kunnen helaas niet helpen met individuele aanpassingen. Heb je een garen die dezelfde dikte hebt als Vienna/Eskimo, dan moet je de stekenverhouding in het patroon aanhouden. Wil je breien met een andere dikte, dan moet je de stekenverhouding van het nieuwe garen aanhouden en het patroon opnieuw berekenen voor deze met hulp van de stekenverhouding / afmetingen en aantal st in het patroon. Succes.

07.03.2014 - 10:37

country flag Janet wrote:

Ik heb 10 bollen eskimo en 5 vienna heb ik dan genoeg als de kol van eskimo gemaakt wordt en de poncho van vienna

10.11.2013 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Janeth. Dit is wat je nodig hebt voor dit patroon: Maat: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL Materiaal: DROPS VIENNA van Garnstudio Kleur nr. 19, grijs: 200-250-300 gr En gebruik: DROPS ESKIMO van Garnstudio Kleur nr. 39m, druifblauw: 400-500-600 gr. Dus je zou genoeg moeten hebben voor maat S/M en L/XL

12.11.2013 - 12:28

country flag Janet wrote:

Is de poncho het zelfde als het voor en achterpand maar dan op de rondbreinaald gebreid.

10.11.2013 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Janet. Ja, je breit eerst een stuk voorpand, dan achterpand, en vervolgens plaats je beide panden op de rondbreinld en breit door in de rondte: "PONCHO: Zet alle st op dezelfde nld, plaats 1 markeerder in elke overgang tussen voorpand en achterpand = 4 markeerders in totaal"

12.11.2013 - 12:27

country flag Janet wrote:

Is de kol van eskimo gebreid, op het plaatje lijkt het van wel

10.11.2013 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Janet. Ja, dat is Eskimo. Dit staat ook in het patroon onder materiaal, maar ook in het patroon zelf onder PONCHO.

12.11.2013 - 12:23