DROPS / 141 / 19

Birch Leaves by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables, lace pattern and band collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-083
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
850-950-1000-1100-1250-1350 g colour no 4311, grey/purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 19 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. And 15 sts x 19 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - for rib.

DROPS ANGULAR BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 537: 2 pieces

(Continue to pattern...)

Tags:

pattern type: jackets, pattern/technique: cable, lace, shape: belt, pocket, shawl collar,

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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

KNITTING TIP (applies to band):
To avoid the bands contracting at the front, work short rows over bands on every row marked with arrow in diagram A.5/A.6 as follows: * Beg from RS on right front piece (= mid front) on row marked with arrow in diagram and K 1 row over the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts (= band – the other sts on row are not worked), turn piece, tighten thread and K the rest of row, turn piece and work 1 row as before (in garter st and with pattern) over all sts, turn piece, K 1 row over the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts (= band on left front piece – the other sts on row are not worked), turn piece, tighten thread and K the rest of row *, repeat from *-* on every row marked with arrow in diagram.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for 2 buttonholes on right band as follows: K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO, work until 5 sts remain on band, K the next 2 tog and make 1 YO.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 239-251-269-305-335-347 sts (incl 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above , * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 in sizes S + M + L (= 35 sts) and diagram A.2 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 in sizes S + M + L (= 35 sts) and diagram A.2 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3 and 3 edge sts in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this until piece measures 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 3 edge sts in garter st, K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-9-12-12-10 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts, work last row in A.3 over sts from A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-7-7-11-11 sts evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 sts, work last row in A.3 in sizes S + M + L over sts from A.1 (= 9 sts dec) and work last row in A.4 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over sts from A.2 (= 10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-4-10-8-4 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts, work last row in A.3 over sts from A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-7-7-11-11 sts evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 sts, work last row in A.3 in sizes S + M + L over sts from A.1 (= 9 sts dec) and work last row in A.4 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over sts from A.2 (= 10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-9-12-12-10 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st = 171-183-197-217-241-261 sts.
Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P but K the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts in each side (= bands).
Then work pattern as follows, beg from RS - READ KNITTING TIP: 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in garter st, 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stocking st, work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 sts), work in stocking st over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 sts, work A.5 in sizes S + M + L (= 26 sts) and A.6 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 34 sts), 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stocking st, work diagram A.7 (choose diagram for your size = 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts), 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stocking st, work A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 sts), work in stocking st over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 sts, work A.5 in sizes S + M + L (= 26 sts) and A.6 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 34 sts) and 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stocking st and 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in garter st.
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 47-50-54-59-66-71 sts in from each side = 77-83-89-99-109-119 sts between markers on back piece. Continue pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 10-10-10-8-9-9 cm, 3-3-3-4-4-4 more times = 155-167-181-197-221-241 sts. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off for 2 buttonholes on right band - see explanation above! When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, cast off the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts on row, insert 1 marker (shows where to beg knit up for collar), work the rest of row. Turn piece, cast off the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts on row, insert 1 marker (this marks where to end the knit up for collar), work the rest of row = 125-137-147-163-179-199 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm, cast off 2-4-4-4-6-8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 1-2-2-2-3-4 sts on each side of both markers) = 67-71-77-85-93-101 sts on back piece and 27-29-31-35-37-41 sts on front piece. Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-90 cm, cast off the middle 11-11-13-13-17-17 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 27-29-31-35-37-41 sts remain on needle. Continue until piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm and cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm – adjust so that same no of rows has been worked as on back piece, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work rib (= K 3/P 3). When rib measures 8 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-6-11-10-9 sts evenly = 34-35-36-37-38-39 sts. Then work in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 13-10-7½-6-5-4 cm 3-4-5-6-7-8 more times = 42-45-48-51-54-57 sts. When piece measures 52-52-51-50-48-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), finish the piece back and forth on needle from mid under sleeve as follows:
Sizes S + M + L + XL: Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until piece measures 53-53-52-51 cm, loosely cast off.
Size XXL + XXXL: Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until 2 rows remain before piece measures 50-48 cm. Now cast off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before casting off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st (section worked back and forth at the top of sleeve should fit the cast off for armhole). Sew on buttons.

COLLAR:
Knit up sts from RS (inside 1 edge st) on circular needle size 5 mm - start mid front at marker on right front piece: Knit up approx. 38 to 46 sts up to shoulder, then 16 to 22 sts along the neck, and 38 to 46 sts down along left front piece until marker = 92 to 114 sts. K 1 row from WS. Then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc no of sts evenly to 137-143-149-155-161-167. Then work rib as follows (from WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with P 3 and 1 edge st in garter st (from RS there are 3 K sts in each side inside edge st). Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 5 cm. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 149-155-161-167-173-179 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P until collar measures approx. 9-9-11-11-13-13 cm. Now work as follows: Work 1 row as before and slip the first 16 sts worked on a stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 16 sts worked at the beg of row on another stitch holder. Turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked at the beg of row on the first stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked at the beg of row on the other stitch holder. Continue like this by slipping the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked on stitch holder in each side until there are 61-61-61-70-70-70 sts in total on stitch holder in each side. Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and work 1 row as before over all the 149-155-161-167-173-179 sts – NOTE: To avoid holes in every transition where piece was turned, slip loop before next st twisted on needle and work tog with first st on needle. On next row cast off with K over K and P over P. Neatly fasten collar with stitches in each side towards band – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 28-28-28-36-36-36 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Nepal. Work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for your size) with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When pocket measures approx. 17-17-17-20-20-20 cm – adjust after one whole repetition of lace pattern in the middle – dec from RS 2 sts over each cable and 3 sts over lace pattern in the middle = 21-21-21-27-27-27 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and K 4 rows and cast off with K from WS. Knit another pocket but in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL work diagram A.6 instead of A.5. Sew 1 pocket on to each front piece with stitches inside 1 edge st - approx. 13-13-13-17-17-17 cm from bottom edge (try the jacket on for placement) – pattern on pocket should fit pattern repetition on front piece.

BELT:
Cast on 9 sts on needle size 5 mm and work in garter st back and forth until belt measures approx. 150-190 cm, cast off.


Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= P 2 tog
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 1 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 3 from cable needle


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