DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Birch Leaves

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables, lace pattern and band collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 141-19
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-083
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-102-112-124-136 cm /
34''-37''-40''-44''-48¾''-53½''
Full length: 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm /
30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
850-950-1000-1100-1250-1350 g color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/ US 10 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 19 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. And 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8- for rib.

DROPS ANGULAR BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 537: 2 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K sts on all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

KNITTING TIP (applies to band):
To avoid the front bands contracting at the front, work short rows over bands on every row marked with arrow in diagram A.5/A.6 as follows:
* Beg from RS on right front piece (= mid front) on row marked with arrow in diagram and K 1 row over the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts (= band – the other sts on row are not worked), turn piece, tighten thread and K the rest of row, turn piece and work 1 row as before (in garter st and with pattern) over all sts, turn piece, K 1 row over the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts (= band on left front piece – the other sts on row are not worked), turn piece, tighten thread and K the rest of row *, repeat from *-* on every row marked with arrow in diagram.

BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for 2 buttonholes on right band as follows: K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO, work until 5 sts remain on band, K the next 2 tog and make 1 YO.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 239-251-269-305-335-347 sts (includes 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS:
K3 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above , * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 in sizes S + M + L (= 35 sts) and diagram A.2 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, K 3, work diagram A.1 in sizes S + M + L (= 35 sts) and diagram A.2 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 44 sts), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, K 3 and K3 edge sts in GARTER ST.
Continue rib like this until piece measures 5 cm / 2''.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work next row from RS as follows:
K3 edge sts in garter st, K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-9-12-12-10 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts, work last row in A.3 over sts from A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-7-7-11-11 sts evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 sts, work last row in A.3 in sizes S + M + L over sts from A.1 (= 9 sts dec) and work last row in A.4 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over sts from A.2 (= 10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-4-10-8-4 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts, work last row in A.3 over sts from A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-7-7-11-11 sts evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 sts, work last row in A.3 in sizes S + M + L over sts from A.1 (= 9 sts dec) and work last row in A.4 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over sts from A.2 (= 10 sts dec), K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-9-12-12-10 sts evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 sts and finish with K3 edge sts in garter st = 171-183-197-217-241-261 sts.
Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P but K the outermost 16-16-18-18-22-22 sts in each side (= front bands).
Then work pattern as follows, beg from RS - READ KNITTING TIP: 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in garter st, 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 sts), work in stockinette st over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 sts, work A.5 in sizes S + M + L (= 26 sts) and A.6 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 34 sts), 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stockinette st, work diagram A.7 (choose diagram for your size = 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts), 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stockinette st, work A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 sts), work in stockinette st over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 sts, work A.5 in sizes S + M + L (= 26 sts) and A.6 in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (= 34 sts) and 0-1-3-0-2-4 sts in reverse stockinette st and 16-16-18-18-22-22 band sts in garter st.
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 47-50-54-59-66-71 sts in from each side = 77-83-89-99-109-119 sts between markers on back piece. Continue pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec).
Repeat dec every 10-10-10-8-9-9 cm / 4"-4"-4"-3 1/8"-3½"-3½", 3-3-3-4-4-4 more times = 155-167-181-197-221-241 sts.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23½'', bind off for 2 buttonholes on right band - see explanation above!
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm / 20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24'', bind off the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts on row, insert 1 marker (shows where to begin pick up for collar), work the rest of row. Turn piece, bind off the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 sts on row, insert 1 marker (this marks where to end the knit up for collar), work the rest of row = 125-137-147-163-179-199 sts.
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'', bind off 2-4-4-4-6-8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 1-2-2-2-3-4 sts on each side of both markers) = 67-71-77-85-93-101 sts on back piece and 27-29-31-35-37-41 sts on front piece. Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-90 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½", bind off the middle 11-11-13-13-17-17 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Then bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 27-29-31-35-37-41 sts remain on needle.
Continue until piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼'' and bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼'' – make sure that same no of rows has been worked as on back piece, bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 round, then work rib (= K 3/P 3).
When rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-7-6-11-10-9 sts evenly = 34-35-36-37-38-39 sts.
Then work in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve.
Repeat inc every 13-10-7½-6-5-4 cm / 5 1/8"-4"-2 7/8"-2 3/8"-2"-1½" 3-4-5-6-7-8 more times = 42-45-48-51-54-57 sts. When piece measures 52-52-51-50-48-45 cm / 20½"-20½"-20"-19 3/4"-19"-17 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), finish the piece back and forth on needle from mid under sleeve as follows:
Sizes S + M + L + XL: Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until piece measures 53-53-52-51 cm / 21"-21"-20½"-20", loosely bind off.
Size XXL + XXXL: Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until 2 rows remain before piece measures 50-48 cm / 19 3/4"-19". Now bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before binding off all sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st (section worked back and forth at the top of sleeve should fit the bind off for armhole). Sew on buttons.

COLLAR:
Pick up sts from RS (inside 1 edge st) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 - start mid front at marker on right front piece: Knit up approx. 38 to 46 sts up to shoulder, then 16 to 22 sts along the neck, and 38 to 46 sts down along left front piece until marker = 92 to 114 sts. K 1 row from WS.
Then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc no of sts evenly to 137-143-149-155-161-167. Then work rib as follows (from WS): 1 edge st in garter st, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with P 3 and 1 edge st in garter st (from RS there are 3 K sts in each side inside edge st).
Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 5 cm / 2''. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 149-155-161-167-173-179 sts.
Continue with K over K and P over P until collar measures approx. 9-9-11-11-13-13 cm / 3½"-3½"-4½"-4½"-5"-5".
Now work as follows: Work 1 row as before and slip the first 16 sts worked on a stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 16 sts worked at the beg of row on another stitch holder.
Turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked at the beg of row on the first stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked at the beg of row on the other stitch holder. Continue like this by slipping the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 sts worked on stitch holder in each side until there are 61-61-61-70-70-70 sts in total on stitch holder in each side.
Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and work 1 row as before over all the 149-155-161-167-173-179 sts – NOTE: To avoid holes in every transition where piece was turned, slip loop before next st twisted on needle and work tog with first st on needle.
On next row bind off with K over K and P over P. Neatly fasten collar with stitches in each side towards band – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 28-28-28-36-36-36 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Nepal. Work pattern according to diagram A.5 (choose diagram for your size) with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When pocket measures approx. 17-17-17-20-20-20 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-8"-8"-8" – stop after one whole repetition of lace pattern in the middle – dec from RS 2 sts over each cable and 3 sts over lace pattern in the middle = 21-21-21-27-27-27 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and K 4 rows and bind off with K from WS. Knit another pocket but in sizes XL + XXL + XXXL work diagram A.6 instead of A.5. Sew 1 pocket on to each front piece with stitches inside 1 edge st - approx. 13-13-13-17-17-17 cm / 5"-5"-5"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" from bottom edge (try the jacket on for placement) – pattern on pocket should fit pattern repetition on front piece.

BELT:
Cast on 9 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in garter st back and forth until belt measures approx. 150-190 cm / 59"-75", bind off.



Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Thea wrote:

Waarom eerst de mouwen en dan de kraag? Het werk wordt dan veel zwaarder om te breien

19.03.2023 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Thea,

Je kan inderdaad ook eerst de kraag doen en daarna pas de mouwen innaaien. Bedankt voor de tip!

19.03.2023 - 16:24

country flag Emilie wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez vous m'expliquer comment coudre les poches je ne sais pas comment m'y prendre car les mailles lisières vont être visibles, nous ne pouvons pas de couture invisible. Ou avez vous un tuto qui le montre ? Merci par avance. Cordialement.

02.07.2022 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Emilie, cette vidéo montre justement comment coudre une poche. Bonne continuation!

04.07.2022 - 08:55

country flag Karine Bresler wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote le modèle Drops 141-19. Dans le diagramme A5 en taille S apres le dernier rang du point ajouré rang 8 on reprend le diagramme des le début. Mais en ce qui concerne la flèche en face du motif de la torsade pour faire le rang raccourci doit on faire ce rang raccourci à chaque torsade ou une torsade sur deux? Merci pour votre réponse

25.02.2022 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bresler, les rangs raccourcis vont se faire 1 torsade sur 2 (= comptez les rangs des torsades, pas du point ajouré). Bon tricot!

25.02.2022 - 16:06

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hei! I diagram A.5 og A.6 så er det et område på midten øverst som er helt blankt. Hvordan strikker jeg disse diagrammene?

14.01.2022 - 19:38

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonsoir, Je débute ce tricot en taille L. Une petite chose que j’ai du mal à comprendre. Le diagramme A5 comporte 8 rangs à répéter. Le diagramme A7 comporte 14 rangs à répéter. Comment faire ? Et à quoi servent les 4 rangs à gauche et à droite sur le schéma A5, il n’y a rien au milieu ? Merci par avance pour votre aide.

26.09.2021 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, les différents motifs/diagrammes ne se répètent pas sur le même nombre de mailles en hauteur, par ex. dans A.5 quand le point ajouré est terminé, reprenez le au 1er rang, mais continuez les torsades de chaque côté comme avant. Quand A.7 est terminé, reprenez-le au 1er rang. Bon tricot!

27.09.2021 - 08:39

country flag Sareith wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai placé les 2 marqueurs ; à 47-50-54-59-66-71 m de chaque côté = 77-83-89-99-109-119 m entre les marqueurs pour le dos. Et je dois continuer en point fantaisie, sur le rang envers dois je tricoter les rangs comme elle suit ou tricoter le rang suivant des points fantaisies ?

11.08.2021 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, les marqueurs sont juste ajoutés pour servir de repères pour les diminutions, tricotez les diagrammes comme avant: lisez-les de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers - cette leçon pourra peut-être vous aider si besoin. Bon tricot!

12.08.2021 - 08:44

country flag Annette Hesteng wrote:

Rib forneden.str s, skal slå 239 m op, men tæller man m sammen i ribben, bliver det kun 224 m, nu sidder jeg, efter at ha strikket ribben 1 gang igennem, med 15 m i overskud, og det er anden gang, hvad gør jeg? hilsen annette

15.01.2021 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annette. Usikker på hvor det blir feil hos deg, men det er riktig slik det står i oppskriften. Prøv å del opp avsnittet og skriv ned de maskene du skal strikke, f.eks slik: 3 kantmasker + 18 (3 rett, 3 vrang x 3)+ 3 rett + 35 (A.1) + 12 ( 3 rett, 3 vrang x2) + 3 rett + 35 (A.1) + 18 (3 rett, 3 vrang x 3) + 3 rett + 35 (A.1) + 12 (3 rett, 3 vrang x 2) + 3 rett + 35 (A.1) + 18 ( 3 rett, 3 vrang x 3) + 3 rett + 3 kantmasker = 239 masker. God Fornøyelse!

25.01.2021 - 14:12

country flag Merja Schroeder wrote:

Ik kom er niet helemaal uit. Ik maak xxl. Op het moment dat je van boord steek overgaat naar het patroon op nld 6mm staat er nadat A3 gebreid is. Brei en minder tegelijkertijd 11 steken gelijkmatig. Maar brei je dan alle steken recht of recht boven recht averecht boven ? Mvg, Merja

23.12.2020 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Merja,

Het maakt niet uit of je die minderingen boven de rechte of averechte steken maakt, want in de volgende naald worden er ribbels boven deze steken gebreid.

17.01.2021 - 14:33

country flag Gabriela wrote:

Hola amiga. Sabes me gustó muchísimo el diseño de tu tejido. Pero no tendrás un video o si no un patrón del tejido? Otra consulta. Empieza por el cuello? Creo que no verdad. Empieza de la parte de abajo verdad?? Gracias por responder.

20.05.2020 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Gabriela, se trabaja de abajo arriba. Bajo el patrón tienes una serie de vídeos que te pueden ayudar a realizar la chaqueta.

21.11.2020 - 23:34

country flag Maia wrote:

No, this isn't about the Collar, this is about the garter stitch FRONT BANDS, the arrow in A5 indicates when you have to knit a short row, but it's not clear to me if it is every 6 rows or every 12 rows.

09.12.2019 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maia, you will work the short row on every 12th row = everytime you work the row with the arrow. Happy knitting!

09.12.2019 - 16:01