DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Heidi

Knitted DROPS vest in garter st with short rows in ”Puddel”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 143-26
DROPS design: Pattern no v-067
Yarn group E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUDDEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 09, light beige:
550-600-650-700-750-800 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 20 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

SHORT ROWS 1:
Work short rows to get a rounded edge on the piece, work as follows:
Row 1 and 2: Work 26-28-30-32-36-40 sts, turn and work back.
Row 3 and 4: Work 24-26-28-30-34-38 sts, turn and work back.
Row 5 and 6: Work 22-24-26-28-32-36 sts, turn and work back.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every time until only 10 sts at the edge remain that have not been worked, work 1 time back and forth over these sts.
Then work 2 rows over all sts. 10-11-12-13-15-17 ridges have been worked in outer edge and 1 ridge in the inner side. Repeat from 1st row a total of 3 times.
The rounded edge now measures approx. 30-33-36-39-45-51 cm on the outer side and 2 cm on the inside.

SHORT ROWS 2:
Work short rows to get a rounded edge on the piece, work as follows:
Row 1 and 2: Work 26-27-27-27-28-30 sts, turn and work back.
Row 3 and 4: Work 24-25-25-25-26-28 sts, turn and work back.
Row 5 and 6: Work 22-23-23-23-24-26 sts, turn and work back.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every time until only 10-11-11-11-10-10 sts at the edge remain that have not been worked, work 1 time back and forth over these sts.
Then work 2 rows over all sts. 10-10-10-10-11-12 ridges have been worked in outer edge and 1 ridge in the inner side. Repeat from 1st row a total of 3 times.
The rounded edge now measures approx. 30-30-30-30-33-36 cm on the outer side and 2 cm on the inside.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 36-40-44-50-56-62 sts on needle size 7 mm with Puddel and work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc when piece measures 12 cm = 40-44-48-54-60-66 sts. When piece measures 20 cm, cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-0-1-2-3 times and 1 st 0-1-2-2-3-3 times = 36-38-38-40-40-42 sts. When piece measures 35-36-37-39-40-41 cm, cast off the middle 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 st on the next row from the neck = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 37-38-39-41-42-43 cm.

RIGHT EDGE PIECE:
ALL MEASUREMENTS SHOULD BE DONE ON THE SHORTER SIDE!
Cast on 28-30-32-34-38-42 sts on needle size 7 mm with Puddel. Work in garter st. When piece measures 16-18-20-23-26-29 cm, work SHORT ROWS 1 from RS - see explanation above. When 3 repetitions with short rows have been worked, continue in garter st over all sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 6 and 12 cm, inc 1 st in the shorter side = 30-32-34-36-40-44 sts. When piece measures 20 cm, cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece (cast off for armhole at the beg of every row in the shorter side) = 28-29-29-29-30-32 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 35-36-37-39-40-41 cm. Now work SHORT ROWS 2. When all short rows have been worked, piece measures approx. 37-38-39-41-42-43 cm in the shorter side. On next row from WS cast off the first 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts for shoulder, work the rest of row = 15-15-15-15-16-17 sts remain for collar. Work in garter st until collar measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm (measured from shoulder). Cast off.

LEFT EDGE PIECE:
Work as right edge piece but with WS outwards before assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew all seams edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts.
Sew cast on edges on edge pieces tog mid back and sew edge pieces to the bottom edge of back piece. Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Amalie Vest wrote:

Hvor mange gram garn skal man bruge? Jeg strikker med en tråd DROPS - ALPACA BOUCLÈ og kid silk mohair.

08.12.2020 - 13:38

country flag Amalie Vest wrote:

Hej, jeg forstår ikke, hvor mange masker man skal slå op til at starte med?

04.12.2020 - 12:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Amalie. Slå 36-40-44-50-56-62 m beroende på vilken størrelse du gör (S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL). Om du stickar størrelse S slår du op 36 m, størrelse M 40 m etc. Mvh DROPS Design

04.12.2020 - 13:12

country flag Maristela wrote:

Oi....qual início da peça?

12.08.2020 - 23:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia! O início da peça começa a meio das costas. Bom Tricô!

13.08.2020 - 10:44

country flag José wrote:

Waar kan ik de correctie vinden van dit patroon, ik wil deze gaan maken maar zag dat het patroon gecorrigeerd is, de link zegt alleen dat het in een Duits boek staat? Je kan dan Nederlands uitprinten, maar hoe dan?

30.12.2019 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag José,

Als er een correctie op een patroon is, dan is deze al doorgevoerd in de online versie.

Bovenaan het patroon staat de foto en daaronder kun je je taal kiezen, daarna klik je op de button 'afdrukken' welke je onder de materialenlijst vindt.

04.01.2020 - 19:58

country flag Christiane Leray wrote:

Estce que vous pouvez donner en cm la largeur des 44 mailles du dos, car je voudrais le realiser Avec des aiguilles du 4. Et je ne vois pas trop si le dos couvre tout le dos ou bien si les bandes exterieures couvrent aussi. Donc, des dimensions en cm aideraient beaucoup. Merci beaucoup si vous pouvezme l’indiquer

10.01.2019 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Leray, vous trouverez toutes les mesures de chaque pièce dans le schéma et le nombre de mailles correspondant dans les explications. On tricote d'abord le dos de bas en haut (voir flèche dans le schéma), puis les bordures bas dos/devant avec les rangs raccourcis pour l'arrondi du devant et le col châle. Vous pourrez ainsi recalculer avec ces données et votre propre échantillon. Bon tricot!

10.01.2019 - 15:49

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, je suis dans les rangs raccourcis et je ne comprends pas combien de fois il faut laisser deux mailles non tricotée au bout de l'aiguille si j'en laisse 10 je n'obtient pas le bon nombre de côtes mousse. merci pour votre réponse

26.10.2018 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, pour les rangs raccourcis-1, vous tricotez 2 m en moins à la fin de chaque rang sur l'endroit (devant droit) jusqu'à ce qu'il ne reste que les 10 premières mailles sur l'endroit, et tricotez 2 rangs sur ces 10 m. En taille S par ex. vous avez tricoté 10 côtes mousse au total. Bon tricot!

29.10.2018 - 07:55

country flag Westermeyer Nicole wrote:

Je desire tricoter le gilet Heidi avec la laine fabel uni colour aiguilles N3 au lieu de Puddel aiguilles N7 combien de pelotes dois je commander pour la taille M ainsi que le calcul du nombre de mailles merci de m aider W.Nicole

02.02.2016 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Westermeyer, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de recalculer chacun de nos modèles pour s'adapter à chaque demande individuelle, demandez de l'aide auprès de votre magasin DROPS et/ou consultez nos modèles prévus pour Fabel ou tous les fils du groupe A avec la tension souhaitée. Bon tricot!

03.02.2016 - 09:11

country flag KIM wrote:

Regarding Short rows 1: Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every time until only 10 sts at the edge remain that have not been worked, work 1 time back and forth over these sts. This is confusing because of the word "ONLY 10 remain unworked", because you are increasing the # of unworked stitches each time. So, row 1 & 2 have 2 st. unworked, row 3 & 4 have 4 st unworked, etc. So is it correct that rows 9 & 10 would have 10 stitches unworked. This is the end of the short rows?

18.01.2016 - 22:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, you continue short rows working 2 sts less every time before turning until 10 sts remaining not worked in the short rows, then work 2 rows over these sts + 2 rows over all sts and repeat these a total of 3 times. Happy knitting!

19.01.2016 - 10:49

country flag Kim wrote:

I would like to add one decorative button to the closure. Can you suggest where in the pattern the button hole should be placed? thank you! I'm looking forward to knitting this.

16.01.2016 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, you can adjust placement to the buttonhole after having worked first front piece - or used snapfastener to place a button afterwards when wearing jacket to be sure where it should most fit you. Happy knitting!

18.01.2016 - 13:56

country flag Jacqueline Dé Fil wrote:

Bonjour, la qualité Puddel est supprimé par quoi puis-je la remplacer s'il vous plaît ?! Merci de votre réponse.

25.10.2015 - 00:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dé Fil, Vous trouverez ici une alternative à DROPS Puddel - cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

26.10.2015 - 11:19