Stefania wrote:
Bellissimo! grazie! mi lascia solo perplessa l'alternanza precisa dei colori nelle righe e nei quadrati, viene fatto solo con quel gomitolo di colori misto o bisogna usare colori diversi? Spero di essere riuscita a farmi capire, sono una frana...grazie!
06.09.2012 - 11:44DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno. Quel colore di DROPS Delight è un po' particolare avendo dei contrasti molto chiari. Può tranquillamente utilizzare uno degli altri colori di Delight oppure scegliere un'altra qualità dello stesso gruppo filati, p.es una tinta unita. Può trovare i vari gruppi di filati nel menu PRODOTTI-Gruppi di filati. Spero di aver risposto alla domanda...
10.09.2012 - 10:36Tessa wrote:
Prachtig! Maar hoe kan het dat de kleurwisseling in de lange sjaal lijkt te verlopen per toer en dat het ook het geval is per toer op de muts? Je gaat dan telkens over naar de nieuwe kleur dat 'kost' toch heel veel draad die je weggooit?
28.08.2012 - 21:30DROPS Design answered:
Het model is ontworpen op deze manier en het zou meevallen met "restdraadjes". Je kan natuurlijk ervoor kiezen om niet te wisselen van kleur per toer.
31.08.2012 - 16:28Kirsten wrote:
Hvor mange garn nøgler skal man bruge for at lave halsterklædet?
27.08.2012 - 15:00DROPS Design answered:
Du skal bruke 300g vilket er 6 nøgler.
28.08.2012 - 02:16Maryjean Hochberg wrote:
Love the colors
22.08.2012 - 03:41Marianne wrote:
Hej. Håber nogen kan hjælpe for tørklædet er superfedt! Når man skifter farve, skal man så klippe tråden over og springe til næste farve på tråden? Synes ikke rigtig opskriften er så tydelig på det punkt :-)
17.08.2012 - 21:39DROPS Design answered:
Helt riktig, når du skifter farve, så må tråden klippes og så start med neste farve på nöylet. Slik far hver omg en ny farve.
25.08.2012 - 01:00Marianne wrote:
Hej. Håber nogen kan hjælpe for tørklædet er superfedt! Når man skifter farve, skal man så klippe tråden over og springe til næste farve på tråden? Synes ikke rigtig opskriften er så tydelig på det punkt :-)
17.08.2012 - 21:39Françoise wrote:
Bonjour, J'ai très envie de réaliser ce modèle.Je suis un peu inquiète à propos de la torsion à effectuer au moment de fermer l'anneau.Est-ce vraiment nécessaire? quel est son utilité? sinon j'en profite pour vous remercier de tous ces beaux modèles que vous nous offrez.
17.08.2012 - 11:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Françoise, et merci. La torsion est ici nécessaire pour obtenir un effet "möbius" = on forme ainsi une sorte de huit, un anneau vrillé. Bon crochet !
21.08.2012 - 14:41Sofie wrote:
Lijkt me een supermooi patroon, maar hoe zit dat nu precies met dat "van kleur wisselen"? Het garen verandert toch vanzelf van kleur? Of zie ik dat helemaal fout?!
07.08.2012 - 20:44DROPS Design answered:
Ja, de draad veranderd zelf van kleur, maar voor dit patroon moet je zorgen om bij een nieuwe kleur te beginnen binnen de bol zelf per toer
24.08.2012 - 13:05Graciela Beatriz wrote:
Hermosos!!! Diseños super originales !
04.08.2012 - 06:15
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Crochet DROPS moebius neck warmer and hat with squares in ”Delight”.
DROPS 143-40 |
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NECK WARMER: ROUNDS WITH DC: Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. COLOR CHANGE: To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread. -------------------------------------------------------- SQUARE: Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mmE/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC. ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE. ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball. ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread. Work a total of 25 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring – NOTE: twist the strip 1 time to form a twisted ring, before working the ends tog. NECK WARMER: Worked from middle of piece = the twisted ring and out towards the outer edges - i.e. work upwards and downwards at the same time. NOTE! Beg every round with 3 ch (= 1st dc). Work 1st round along the strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc and ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue to work as follows: In every ch-space work 3 dc, ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue like this until neck warmer measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' vertically (the entire piece, not just from the middle and outwards). Cut and fasten the thread. -------------------------------------------------------- HAT: ROUNDS WITH DC: Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. DECREASE TIP 1: Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. ROUNDS WITH SC: Beg every round with sc with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc) - NOTE! Work sc in back loop of every sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc. DECREASE TIP 2: Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in back loop of next sc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. COLOR CHANGE: To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread. -------------------------------------------------------- SQUARE: Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC. ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE. ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball. ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread. Work a total of 8-9 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring. HAT: Worked in the round. Work along one side of strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch (= 1st dc) from beg of round = 96-108 dc. Then work ROUNDS WITH DC - read explanation above - as follows: 3 ch (= 1st dc), skip 1st dc from previous round, 1 dc in every dc, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Continue until hat measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from bottom edge. Then dec as follows: ROUND 1: * 1 dc in each of the next 6-7 dc, dec 1 dc - READ DECREASE TIP 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84-96 dc (= 12 sts dec). ROUND 2: * 1 dc in each of the next 5-6 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72-84 dc. ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the next 4-5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60-72 dc. ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 3-4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48-60 dc. ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 2-3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36-48 dc. ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 1-2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24-36 dc. SIZE S/M: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end. SIZE L/XL: ROUND 7: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc. ROUND 8: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end. EDGE: Work an edge along bottom edge of hat (along the other side of strip with squares) as follows: Work ch 1, in each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 4 sc = 128-144 sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Then work ROUNDS WITH SC - read explanation above. When edge measures approx. 1 cm / ½", dec 16-20 sc evenly on round - READ DECREASE TIP 2 = 112-124 sc. Continue until edge measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', cut and fasten the thread. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm / 9½"-9 3/4'' vertically. ---------------------------------------------------------- Wrist warmers – see design: 143-41 ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Kirsten wrote:
Bare glem det, blev forvirret over sætningen, har fundet ud af det ;)
27.08.2012 - 15:01