DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 140-4
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-195
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour no 905, salt and pepper
and use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 506, dark grey eco

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st / 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTON NO 534: 6-7-7-7-7-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = 2 rounds * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

SHORT ROWS:
Work 1 row over the first 26-28-30-33-37-41 sts, turn and work back. Work 1 row over the first 25-27-29-32-36-40 sts, turn and work back. Continue with short rows, work one st less every time until two rows have been worked only over the first st. Then work 1 row over the first 2 sts, turn and work back, 1 row over the first 3 sts, turn and work back. Continue with short rows, work one st more every time, until 1 row has been worked over all sts, turn and work back. 1 repetition with short rows = 104-112-120-132-148-164 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm.
SIZE M: 3, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm.
SIZE L: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43 and 52 cm.
SIZE XL: 3, 11, 19, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm.
SIZE XXL: 3, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 3, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm.
(NOTE: Work last buttonhole when 1 cm remains on neck edge.)
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LEFT FRONT PIECE:
The entire piece is worked in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work piece from shoulder down to bottom edge, then from bottom edge and back to shoulder. Cast on 8-9-10-12-15-18 sts on needles size 3 mm with Fabel. Work in garter st for 5 cm, then cast on new sts at the end of every row from WS as follows: 1 st 3 times, 2 sts 3 times and 10-11-12-13-14-15 sts 1 time = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 45-46-47-47-48-49 cm. Work 2 repetitions with short rows – see explanation above, first row = from RS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from bottom on front piece (measured up along the side), K tog the first 2 sts on row (from RS), repeat dec every 3 cm 4 more times = 22-24-26-29-33-37 sts. When short rows have been worked, work in garter st over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME work the two stripes tog as follows - beg from WS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from previous stripe, work first st from left needle, pass the new st over, work the rest of row. Repeat these two rows upwards until 1 st has been knitted up in every ridge along the entire side of previous stripe. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22 cm from bottom edge, work 2 sts in first st on row (from RS), repeat inc every 2½-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm 4 more times = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm from bottom edge, cast off for armholes at the beg of every row from RS as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-4-5-7-9 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-7-10 times = 17-17-16-14-11-8 sts. Work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
The entire piece is worked in garter st. Work piece from shoulder down to bottom edge, then from bottom edge and back to shoulder. Cast on 8-9-10-12-15-18 sts on needles size 3 mm with Fabel. Work in garter st for 5 cm, then cast on new sts at the end of every row from RS as follows: 1 st 3 times, 2 sts 3 times and 10-11-12-13-14-15 sts 1 time = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 45-46-47-47-48-49 cm. Work 2 repetitions with short rows – see explanation above, first row = from WS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from bottom on front piece (measured up along the side), K tog the last 2 sts on row (from RS), repeat dec every 3 cm 4 more times = 22-24-26-29-33-37 sts. When short rows have been worked, work in garter st over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME work the two stripes tog as follows - beg from RS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from previous stripe, work first st from left needle, pass the new st over, work the rest of row. Repeat these two rows upwards until 1 st has been knitted up in every ridge along the entire side of previous stripe. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22 cm from bottom edge, work 2 sts in last st on row (from RS), repeat inc every 2½-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm 4 more times = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off for armholes at the beg of every row from WS as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-4-5-7-9 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-7-10 times = 17-17-16-14-11-8 sts. Work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off.

BACK PIECE:
The entire piece is worked in garter st. Work piece from shoulder down to bottom edge, then from bottom edge and back to shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Cast on 8-9-10-12-15-18 sts on needles size 3 mm with Fabel. Work in garter st for 2 cm. Put piece aside. Work left shoulder the same way, keep sts on needle, cast on 38-40-42-44-46-48 new sts, and work sts from right shoulder back on needle = 54-58-62-68-76-84 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 45-46-47-47-48-49 cm. Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME on every other row slip 1 st in each side on a stitch holder. Continue until 2 sts remain on needle = 26-28-30-33-37-41 sts on each stitch holder. Slip the left of the 2 sts on stitch holder, then finish the right side of back piece.

RIGHT SIDE OF BACK PIECE:
= 1 st on needle. Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row from RS work 1 st from stitch holder back on needle. Continue like this until all the sts have been worked back on to needle = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. Work 1 repetition with short rows – see explanation above, first row = from RS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from bottom on back piece (measured up along the side), K tog the first 2 sts on row (from RS), repeat dec every 3 cm 4 more times = 22-24-26-29-33-37 sts. When short rows have been worked, work in garter st over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME work the two stripes tog as follows - beg from WS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from previous stripe, work first st from left needle, pass the new st over, work the rest of row. Repeat these two rows upwards until 1 st has been knitted up in every ridge along the entire side of previous stripe. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22 cm, continue inc in the side and cast off for armhole as explained on left front piece. Work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off.


LEFT SIDE OF BACK PIECE:
Slip last st slipped on stitch holder back on needle size 3 mm = 1 st on needle. Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row from WS work 1 st from stitch holder back on needle. Continue like this until all the sts have been worked back on to needle = 27-29-31-34-38-42 sts. Work 1 repetition with short rows – see explanation above, first row = from WS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from bottom on back piece (measured up along the side), K tog the last 2 sts on row (from RS), repeat dec every 3 cm 4 more times = 22-24-26-29-33-37 sts. When short rows have been worked, work in garter st over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME work the two stripes tog as follows - beg from RS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from previous stripe, work first st from left needle, pass the new st over, work the rest of row. Repeat these two rows upwards until 1 st has been knitted up in every ridge along the entire side of previous stripe. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22 cm, continue inc in the side and cast off for armhole as explained on right front piece. Work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work in GARTER ST for 4 cm - see explanation above. Switch to Fabel, then work in stocking st (sleeve is sewn on with WS outwards). Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-6-6 cm, inc 1 st in each side of marker, repeat inc every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 14-16-18-20-22-23 more times = 86-92-98-104-110-116 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-43 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker). Then work back and forth and cast off for sleeve cap. Cast off at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 5-6-6-6-6-6 times and 1 st 1-1-2-4-7-10 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-56-56-57-57 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-57-57-58-58 cm in all sizes.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 6 sts on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work in garter st back and forth AT THE SAME TIME work them tog with front piece as follows - beg from RS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from bottom of front piece, work first st from left needle, pass the new st over, work the rest of row. Repeat these two rows upwards until 1 st has been knitted up in every ridge along the entire front piece. Repeat on right front piece, first row = from WS. Cast off for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams. Sew in sleeves, with WS outwards.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 120-130 sts around neck edge (also over bands) with Alpaca. Work in garter st for 2 cm, cast off.

ELBOW PATCH:
Work piece back and forth. Cast on 20 sts on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work as follows:
Row 1: K all sts.
Row 2: K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 28 sts.
Row 3: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 4: K 1, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 1 = 36 sts.
Row 5: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 6: K 1, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 10, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 10, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1 = 44 sts.
Row 7: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 8: K 1, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 12, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 12, 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO, K 1 = 52 sts.
Row 9: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 10: K 1, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 14, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 14, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 1 = 60 sts.
Row 11: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 12: K 1, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 16, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 16, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO, K 1 = 68 sts.
Row 13: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 14: K 1, 1 YO, K 7, 1 YO, K 18, 1 YO, K 7, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 7, 1 YO, K 18, 1 YO, K 7, 1 YO, K 1 = 76 sts.
Row 15: K over all sts, K YO twisted.
Row 16: K 1, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 20, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 20, 1 YO, K 8, 1 YO, K 1 = 84 sts.
Row 17: Cast off all sts. Sew the elbow patch tog in the middle with neat little stitches. Knit another elbow patch. Sew an elbow patch at the back of each sleeve with stitches (try the jacket on for correct placing).



Diagram

symbols = short rows
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = begin here
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Rita Kragh wrote:

Jeg har problemer med at forstå forstykket. Når jeg har lavet det ene hjørne og skal videre til næste hjørne af forstykke og op af siden på forstykket så forestår jeg ikke helt den forklaring som i skriver. Hvad jeg kan se så er de mål som der står i opskriften passer ikke helt sammen med diagrammet. Det kan godt være at jeg skal have det skåret ud i pap så kan det være jeg forstår det.

10.08.2021 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita, har du set videoen nederst i opskriften, som vi har lavet for at vise vendingerne?

25.08.2021 - 10:14

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Jag har löst det!

22.08.2020 - 16:57

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Hej! Jag är på första delen av framstycket, och har nu kommit till där det står: ”när arbetet mäter 6 cm från längst ner på framstycket...” Där hänger jag inte med. Varifrån ska dessa 6 cm mätas? Är det lodrätt eller vågrätt på dominorutan? Tacksam för snabbt svar!!

22.08.2020 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Så bra att det löste sig :)

24.08.2020 - 07:55

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Hej! Jag är på första delen av framstycket, och har nu kommit till där det står: ”när arbetet mäter 6 cm från längst ner på framstycket...” Där hänger jag inte med. Varifrån ska dessa 6 cm mätas? Är det lodrätt eller vågrätt på dominorutan? Tacksam för snabbt svar!!

22.08.2020 - 15:21

country flag Monica wrote:

Che vivagno è consigliato per le varie parti lavorate a legaccio che poi saranno cucite fra loro? Grazie

03.10.2019 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Può lavorare anche la maglia vivagno a legaccio. Le alleghiamo un video che può aiutarla nella confezione. Buon lavoro!

03.10.2019 - 14:28

country flag Karin Brookey wrote:

I am confused on the short rows not sure what it means to work until 2 rows have been worked over the first st. Also what does it mean to work 1 row over the first 2 sets? Thanks for any help you can give me.

13.06.2017 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brookey, you work the short rows over one st less (= in first size for example work: 2 rows over 26 sts, 2 rows over 25 sts, 2 rows over 24 sts, 2 rows over 23 sts and so on until you have worked 2 rows over 2 sts, then work 2 rows over 3 sts 2 rows over 4 sts, 2 rows over 5 sts and so on until you have worked 2 rows over all sts. Happy knitting!

13.06.2017 - 17:36

country flag Donatella wrote:

Mi scusi per le tante domande che le faccio ma mi è venuto un dubbio. Finiti i ferri accorciati l'asola esterna la devo prendere solo nel primo ferro e fare il ferro di ritorno normalmente o riprenderla anche nel secondo ferro? Grazie per l'immensa disponibilità.

16.10.2016 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella, deve riprendere una maglia lavorandola come indicato all'inizio del f dal rovescio del lavoro, poi finisce il ferro e lavora il ferro di ritorno (diritto del lavoro), poi deve girare il lavoro e ripprendere la m nella striscia continuando come prima. In questo modo riprenderà 1 m ogni 2 f (1 m in ogni "costa" a m legaccio). Ci riscriva se ha altri dubbi, siamo qui per questo. Buon lavoro!

16.10.2016 - 13:10

country flag Donatella wrote:

Aiutooo! scusi se la disturbo di nuovo ma ho appena finito i ferri accorciati del davanti sinistro e non riesco a capire quali sono le strisce e le asole di cui si parla. Mi perdoni ma proprio non ci riesco. grazie mille per la sua cortesia

13.10.2016 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Donatella, abbiamo leggermente modificato il testo per renderlo più comprensibile; in pratica, alla fine del triangolo, deve tornare indietro lavorando il davanti fino alla spalla, e allo stesso tempo unirlo alla striscia già lavorata. Guardi bene il disegno alla fine del modello per capire meglio. Mentre lavora i ferri a legaccio, deve riprendere le m esterne della parte che ha già lavorato come indicato nelle istruzioni, così arriverà alla spalla con un pezzo unico. Buon lavoro!

13.10.2016 - 21:17

country flag Donatella wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo il davanti sinistro. Non ho ben chiaro come misurare i 6 cm per iniziare le diminuzioni. Sono forse i cm. di differenza a lato da quando ho iniziato i ferri accorciati? Grazie e cordiali saluti

13.10.2016 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Donatella, praticamente con l'inizio dei ferri accorciati lei sta iniziando a lavorare la parte a triangolo (nella foto): se guarda lo schema in fondo al modello forse capisce meglio la lavorazione. I 6 cm devono essere misurati dal lato, quando arriva a 6 cm inizia a diminuire per realizzare l'altra parte del triangolo e poi lavorerà ancora a m legaccio per finire il davanti unendolo con la striscia già fatta. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!

13.10.2016 - 17:29

country flag Marie wrote:

Je l'ai commencée en 2013, abandonnée, je n'y arrivais pas et j'étais tres prise par ailleurs. Je viens de reprendre ce modèle mais impossible, je ne comprends pas au moment des rangs raccourcis, cela me semble très, très compliqué. J'ai déjà fait des rangs raccourcis mais ici, je ne comprends vraiment pas. Suis déçue. Qui pourrait m'aider? D'avance merci, je voudrais tellement faire ce pull.

18.08.2016 - 01:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici ou bien pour toute assistance complémentaire, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone et/ou le forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

18.08.2016 - 10:31