DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 5.15 € /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 141-1
DROPS design: Pattern no an-004
Yarn group E
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Size: XS/S - M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
400-500-600-700 g colour no 4300, old pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 9 mm – or size needed to get 10 tr in width x 5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm. When working ch-loops, approx. 2.5 loops in width x 5 loops vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 5.15 € /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every tr round with 3 ch.
Finish every tr round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Finish every round starting with 3 ch and a 1 dc in first ch-loop with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
Work 4 ch with Andes on hook size 9 mm. Form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET TIP!

ALL SIZES:
ROUND 1:
* 1 tr in ch-ring, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 6 tr in total with 2 ch between each).
ROUND 2:
3 tr in first tr, 2 ch, * 3 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 18 tr in total with 2 ch between every 3rd tr).
ROUND 3:
* 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 30 tr in total with 2 ch between every 5th tr).
ROUND 4:
* 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 42 tr in total with 2 ch between every 7th tr).
ROUND 5:
* 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr, 2 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 54 tr in total with 2 ch between every 9th tr).

SIZE XS/S and M/L:
ROUND 6:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in ch-loop from previous round, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 7:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 8:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 9:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 ch-loops.
Piece measures approx. 18 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE XL/XXL and XXXL:
ROUND 6:
* 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr, 2 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 66 tr in total with 2 ch between every 11th tr).
ROUND 7:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 9 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in ch-loop from previous round, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 8:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 7 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 9:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 10:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 11:
1 sl st in first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 ch-loops.
Piece measures approx. 22 cm from centre and outwards.


SIZE XS/S:
ROUND 10:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (= 4 ch-loops), 25 ch, skip 3 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 14 times, 25 ch, skip 3 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 11: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 25 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: 6 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch, 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (= 30 ch-loops in total on round).
ROUND 12: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 5th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 36 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 13: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 14: Work as 12th round but work 1 extra ch-loop in every 6th ch-loop = 42 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 15 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 13th round.
ROUND 16 and every even numbered round: Work as 12th round but with 1 ch-loop more between inc every time.
Work until there are 60 ch-loops in total on round.

SIZE M/L:
ROUND 10:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 5th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 36 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 11:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 12:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 4 more times (= 5 ch-loops), work 31 ch, skip 4 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 16 times, 31 ch, skip 4 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 5 times but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 13: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 31 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: 6 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch, * 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (= 36 ch-loops in total on round).
ROUND 14: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 6th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 42 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 15: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 16: Work as 14th round but work 1 extra ch-loop in every 7th ch-loop = 48 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 17 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 15th round.
ROUND 18 and every even numbered round: Work as 14th round but with 1 ch-loop more between inc every time.
Work until there are 72 ch-loops in total on round.

SIZE XL/XXL and XXXL:
ROUND 12:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 6th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 42 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 13:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.

SIZE XL/XXL:
ROUND 14:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 5 more times (= 6 ch-loops), work 37 ch, skip 5 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 18 times, 37 ch, skip 5 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 6 times but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 15: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 37 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: 6 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch, * 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (= 42 ch-loops in total on round).
ROUND 16: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 7th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 48 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 17: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 18: Work as 16th round but work 1 extra ch-loop in every 8th ch-loop = 54 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 19 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 17th round.
ROUND 20 and every even numbered round: Work as 16th round but with 1 ch-loop more between inc every time.
Work until there are 84 ch-loops in total on round.

SIZE XXXL:
ROUND 14:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round. NOTE: But in every 7th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 48 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 15:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, *6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 16:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 6 more times (= 7 ch-loops), work 43 ch, skip 6 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 20 times, 43 ch, skip 6 ch-loops (= armhole), 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* 7 times but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 17: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round but over the 43 ch worked over each armhole, work as follows: 6 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch, * 6 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (= 48 ch-loops in total on round).
ROUND 18: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round – NOTE: But in every 8th ch-loop work 1 extra loop (= 6 ch + 1 dc) = 54 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 19: 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 20: Work as 18th round but work 1 extra ch-loop in every 9th ch-loop = 60 ch-loops in total.
ROUND 21 and every uneven numbered round: Work as 19th round.
ROUND 22 and every even numbered round: Work as 20th round but with 1 ch-loop more between inc every time.
Work until there are 96 ch-loops in total on round.

ALL SIZES:
Work last round as follows:
3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch), 1 dc in same ch-loop, 1 picot, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Cut and fasten the thread.
Piece measures approx. 42-50-58-66 cm from centre and outwards.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked from armholes and down.
Work as follows around one armhole: 1 dc in dc at the bottom of armhole (i.e. in the side with the longest distance between armholes), 6 ch, skip the half ch-loop and work 1 dc in next whole ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 1-2-3-4 more times, 6 ch, 1 dc in dc in the other end of armhole, 6 ch, skip the half ch-loop and work 1 dc in next whole ch-loop, repeat from *-* 2-3-4-5 times, finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in first dc on round = 8-10-12-14 ch-loops.
Work 4 more rounds with 6 ch in every loop and 1 dc in every ch-loop – every round beg with 3 ch and 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop. Then work 6 rounds with 5 ch in every loop.
Then work 4 ch in every loop (now every round beg with only 2 ch) until sleeve measures 53-51-49-47 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width, hold piece up when measuring so that it stretches to correct measurements).
Work last round as follows: 2 ch, 1 sl st at the top of first ch-loop, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round.

Work another sleeve the same way in the other side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.04.2015
SIZE XL/XXL:
ROUND 18: Work as 16th round but work 1 extra ch-loop in every 8th ch-loop = 54 ch-loops in total.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (186)

country flag Ayaka73 wrote:

Pour la taille M, au tour 18 et tous les autres tours pairs, il est écrit" comme pour le tour 14 mais avec un arceau en plus entre les augmentations à chaque fois". Ça veut dire qu'il faut faire 12 arceaux supplémentaires en un seul tour? Merci pour votre réponse.

11.12.2022 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ayaka73, vous augmentez tous les tours pairs comme au tour 14, autrement dit vous augmentez 6 arceaux tous les tours pairs, et, à chaque fois, vous crochèterez 1 arceau en plus entre 2 augmentations. Donc, au 18ème tour, augmentez dans chaque 7ème arceau, au 20ème tour dans chaque 8ème arceau etc... bon crochet!

12.12.2022 - 10:04

country flag Raziye wrote:

May i have the diagram of this jacket please?

14.10.2021 - 07:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Raziye, there is no diagram only written pattern to this jacket - but the video showing how to crochet the circle (from round 6 to 10) can also help you - Happy crocheting!

14.10.2021 - 09:27

country flag Jana wrote:

Prosím vás koľko oblúčikom ma rukáv vo veľkosti S? Nejako mi to nevychádza ☹️. Ďakujem

06.01.2020 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Jano, pro vel. S začínáme s 8 obloučky kolem průramku. Hodně zdaru! Hana

06.01.2020 - 21:18

country flag Jana wrote:

Pre veľkosť XS/S má teda tento svetrík koľko dokopy kruhových rádov (bez posledného ozdobného) (Posledný bude mať 60oblucikov) Ďakujem

04.01.2020 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Milá Jano, řiďte se uvedeným počtem obloučků, ten je stěžejní. Nápomocná by mohla být také tato video-ukázka . Příjemné háčkování! Hana

04.01.2020 - 18:08

country flag Nancy wrote:

Merci infiniment pour cette belle création et toutes les autres créations disponibles ❤️Gratuitement c’est valorisant! J’ai débuter en janvier 2018 et depuis je suis experte et passionnée 😉 J adore vraiment votre site 💞 Nancy du Québec 🤪

07.09.2019 - 00:39

country flag Debbie wrote:

I'm having a problem with R12. The instructions say: But in every 6th ch-space work 1 extra ch-space (= ch 6 + 1 sc) = 42 ch-spaces in total. Given that I've been right on count with each round so far, this makes no sense to me at all and I'm not ending up with 42 ch spaces. Please help!

25.06.2019 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, on round 11 (size XL/XXL + XXXL) there are 36 ch-spaces, then on round 12 you will crochet *(6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space) x 5 then work (6ch, 1 sc in next ch-space, 6 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space)* and repeat from *-* a total of 6 times you will have 5 + 2 ch-spaces in each repeat from *-* = 7 ch-spaces x 6 = 42 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!

26.06.2019 - 06:32

country flag Mary wrote:

Hello, I just completed the Dalie Delight jacket. I used the yarn specified in the pattern instructions. What's the best way to block this piece; wet, spray or steam? Also, How can I lay it flat since the collar overlaps the sleeves? Thank you for your help.

29.10.2018 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you can block it wet or spray - lay it flat as shown in the measurement chart. Enjoy!

29.10.2018 - 16:16

country flag Mary wrote:

Hello, I love this pattern, but I'm having a couple of problems. The collar won't lay down flat. How can I get it to stay in place like the one in the picture? Also, I followed the steps for the sleeves, but since the chain length decreases it makes the sleeve pattern look twisted. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Thank you!

20.10.2018 - 23:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you can block the finished jacket flat to make the collar lay down flat. I'm not sure about the sleeves, a good idea would be to show your Yarn store (even with a picture per mail) so that they can help you. Happy crocheting!

22.10.2018 - 08:33

country flag Donna wrote:

I am confused starting sleeves for xs/s. I sm left handed so going in opposite direction but after the first 3 ch 6 and sc I don't understand what or where the sc goes on the "opposite" side of armhole. Very frustrated. Please help.

21.12.2017 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, for sleeve you will crochet ch-spaces around the whole armhole, ie beginning mid under sleeve work the ch-spaces around the armhole, ie in the ch-spaces left unworked for armhole + in the chain worked when you skipped ch-spaces for armhole - make sure you are working from the right side of piece. Happy crocheting!

22.12.2017 - 08:03

country flag FloSteph wrote:

Bonjour J'adore ce modèle, mais je bloque à partir des emmanchures (tour 14-Xl-XXl). Au tour suivant (15), le patron dit de continuer tout le tour, mais du coup, pas d'ouverture pour les bras, puisque les indications suivantes ne disent pas de sauter des arceaux pour laisser l'ouverture. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment faire? Merci d'avance.

11.06.2016 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour FloSteph, au tour 14 (XL/XXL), on forme les emmanchures en sautant 5 arceaux à 2 reprises que l'on remplace par 37 ml (cf partie soulignée ci-dessous): 3 ml, 1 ms dans le 1er arceau, *6 ml, 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant*, répéter de *-* encore 5 fois (= 6 arceaux), 37 ml, sauter 5 arceaux (= emmanchure), 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant, répéter de *-* 18 fois, 37 ml, sauter 5 arceaux (= emmanchure), 1 ms dans l'arceau suivant, répéter de *-* 6 fois mais terminer par 1 mc dans la 1ère ms du début du tour. Bon crochet!

13.06.2016 - 08:59