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Alternative Yarn â See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F â Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn â Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= bind off one st |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls youâll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension â group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns youâll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much youâll require in the new qualities and whether youâll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern â maybe youâll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: âwork A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size â in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If itâs a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than itâs worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
Itâs very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. Youâll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end youâll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If youâre not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a womenâs size garment into a menâs size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in womenâs size itâs not very difficult to convert it to menâs size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. Itâs therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Marianna |
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Knitted DROPS shawl with short rows in "Verdi".
DROPS 140-3 |
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PATTERN: See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern from RS. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K sts on all rows. KNITTING TIP: When turning mid piece, slip first st. Tighten thread and continue as before. This is done to avoid holes at the turns. -------------------------------------------------------- SHAWL: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 92 sts on circular needle size 7 mm/US 10.75 with Verdi. Work as follows â from RS: diagram A.1 over the first 8 sts, then work in GARTER ST over the other sts - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows - read KNITTING TIP. NOTE! Sts in A.1 are always counted as 8 sts: * 1 row over the first 8 sts (= A.1), turn and work back, 1 row over A.1 + 3 sts, turn and work back, 1 row over A.1 + 6 sts, turn and work back, 1 row over A.1 + 9 sts, turn and work back. Continue with short rows by working 3 sts more on every turn until 2 rows have been worked over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 205 cm/ 81" around the outer edge of the half circle (approx. 8 repetitions with short rows have been worked). Bind off. Tighten tog in the middle by pulling a thread through the inner sts and tighten tog. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (89)
Estelle wrote:
Bonjour ma maman souhaite faire ce chùle mais ne comprends pas trop les explications, j'essaye donc de les comprendre. Pour démarrer, voici ce que je comprends, mais est-ce bien cela: Tricoter les 8 premiÚres mailles en suivant le point fantaisie du diagramme puis les 84 mailles restantes en point mousse, tourner et tricoter le rang en point mousse puis sur le 3Úme rang attaquer les rangs raccourcis. Merci d'avance Estelle
18.11.2013 - 14:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Estelle, pour créer la forme du chùle, on tricote plus de rangs sur les mailles extérieures que sur celles de l'intérieur, ainsi, on tricote 2 rangs sur 8 m (A1), puis 2 rangs sur A1 + 3m, puis 2 rangs sur A1 + 6 m et ainsi de suite en tricotant toujours 3 m de plus à chaque nouveau rang raccourcis jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles, puis reprenez la série complÚte depuis le début. Bon tricot!
18.11.2013 - 14:57Sandra wrote:
Ben begonnen met patroon verkorte toeren en dan 2 toeren over alle steken,klopt dit want heb nu 7 kant patronen gebreid en maar 8 toeren over alle steken? Hoor graag van u en alvast bedankt.
27.10.2013 - 18:38DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Sandra. Het patroon is correct. Je breit voor het keren steeds 3 st meer per keer en eindigt met 1 nld heen en 1 nld terug over alle st. Als je deze werkwijze volgt dan wordt het model juist.
28.10.2013 - 19:05DURAND wrote:
Bonjour, si je comprend bien les explication de votre chùle; on monte 92m et on tricote 8m de A1 puis on tricote les autres m au point mousse; au 3Úme rang on fait les 8m de A1+ 3M point mousse et on tourne et ainssi de suite. est ce bien ça ? merci
12.10.2013 - 23:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Durand, le chùle se tricote en point fantaisie A1 sur les 8 premiÚre m et au point mousse sur les autres mailles. Pour lui donner sa forme, on tricote des rangs raccourcis tels que décrits dans la série de *à *, c'est-à - dire : 2 rangs sur les 8 m de A1, 2 rangs sur A1 + 3 m, 2 rangs sur A1+6 m, et ainsi de suite en tricotant toujours 3 m en plus à chaque fois sur l'endroit jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles = 1 série. Bon tricot!
14.10.2013 - 08:54Kitty wrote:
Ik heb nog nooit met verkorte toeren gewerkt, het is mij niet duidelijk hoe ik tegelijkertijd ribbelsteken en verkorte toeren kan toepassen... Ik heb het patroon uitvoerig bestudeerd maar kom er echt niet uit... Wie kan mij helpen..
12.10.2013 - 17:35DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Kitty. Kijk hier in deze video hoe je verkorte toeren breit. In de video wordt er wel in tricotst gebreid, maar de werkwijze is precies hetzelfde met ribbelst. Je breit dan maar elke nld recht:
16.10.2013 - 13:38EulĂ lia wrote:
Cual es la forma final del chal una vez terminado? El patrĂłn sĂłlo muestra el dibujo de los picos y no se ve el resultado del chal acabado.
14.09.2013 - 08:05DROPS Design answered:
Hola Eulalia! La forma final es la de una media luna
14.09.2013 - 11:12Patricia wrote:
Bonjour, j'espÚre que ce sera la derniÚre fois que je demande des explications. 8m+3m nouvelles 8m+6m nouvelles 8m+9m nouvelles aller retour et je tricote les 92m cela fait un gros trou? peut-on voir le point à la loupe? Merci ou bien un schéma pour surtout le rajout des mailles en plus ou bien on prend sur les 92 mailles
30.07.2013 - 10:23DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Patricia, vous tricotez 2 rangs sur les mailles indiquées (celles de A.1) et à chaque fois, vous tricotez 3 m en plus, donc A1 + 3 m, puis A1 + 6 m, puis A1 + 9 m, puis A1 + 12 m et ainsi de suite. Vous continuez ces rangs raccourcis en tricotant toujours 3 m en plus à chaque nouvel aller-retour jusqu'à ce que toutes les 92 m aient été tricotées. Bon tricot !
30.07.2013 - 11:07Venedictoff wrote:
Bonjour, j'ai compris les rangs raccourcis, mais c'est les mailles Ă rajouter. A1 plus 3 m des 92 mailles je tourne et est-ce que on augmente de 3 mailles ou on les prends des 92 mailles A1 +3m des 92 A1 =6m des 92m A1=9m des 92m un rang entier sur les 92m plus 3m Ă la fin du rang 92m???
27.07.2013 - 12:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Venedictoff, A1 est compté comme 8 m, et vous montez un total de 92 m, mais pour créer la forme voulue, vous allez tricoter davantage de rangs sur les mailles de l'extérieur, ainsi ce sera d'abord 2 rangs sur les m de A1 puis vous tricotez 3 m en plus à chaque fois, soit 2 rangs sur A1 + 3 m, puis 2 rangs sur A1 + 6 m puis 2 rangs sur A1 + 9 m et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 2 rangs sur toutes les 92 m montées au début du chùle. Bon tricot !
29.07.2013 - 09:08Venedictoff wrote:
Bonjour, je bute aussi sur vos explications. Auriez-vous une vidéo de démonstration? Merci
26.07.2013 - 15:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Venedictoff, pour les rangs raccourcis, suivez les indications du modĂšle et la vidĂ©o ci-dessous. Pour toute aide complĂ©mentaire, n'hĂ©sitez pas Ă demander de l'aide au magasin oĂč vous avez achetĂ© votre laine ou bien sur le forum DROPS. Bon tricot !
26.07.2013 - 16:33Amanada wrote:
Hej! Min kil ser mycket bredare ut Àn en kil pÄ bilden. För att jag ska komma över hela raden maskor jag lagt upp minst en gÄng sÄ mÄste jag sticka diagrammet A1 1,5 gÄng. Jag kÀnner alltsÄ som att en av mina kilar blir som tre stycken pÄ bilden. Vad gör jag fel? Det kÀnns som att halva A1 ska bli en kil sÄ att sÀga, men det blir alltsÄ inte min, dÄ har jag bara kommit ca 30 maskor in... Vore tacksam för svar! Amanda
15.06.2013 - 08:45DROPS Design answered:
Men diagrammet A1 strikkes yderst i den ene side pÄ hver pind, og vendepindene gÞr kilerne. SÄ der skal ikke vÊre et bestemt antal rapporter i A1
09.10.2013 - 10:42LACURE wrote:
Bonjour,je ne comprends pas les explications. A quel moment nous tricotons un rang entier? D'aprĂšs vos explications: 1 rang 1 on tourne un autre rang on tourne etc. A quel moment tricote t'on un rang jusqu'au bout?
08.06.2013 - 15:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lacure, on tricote des rangs raccourcis sur les mailles de A1 + 3 m en plus tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!
10.06.2013 - 08:47