DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Celtica

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 143-1
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-016
Yarn group B
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
750-850-1000 g colour no 5610, brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 6 pieces
--------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A-1, diagram shows pattern from RS. First row = RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K 3rd and 4th st from mid front tog and make 1 YO. Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 42 cm.
SIZE L/XL: 8, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm.
SIZE XXL/XXXL: 9, 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm.

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc by making 1 YO inside outermost st - on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Dec for neck inside all sts in garter st (i.e. band + the sts inc for collar). All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows AFTER sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE sts in garter st: K 2 tog.
On all WS rows P sts after/before sts in garter st while dec.
--------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 254-309-360 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Lima. K 5 rows (1st row = WS). Then work as follows (seen from RS): 6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, [* P 2, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K 4), P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, P 14-13-12], repeat from [-] 6-8-10 more times, then from *-* 3 more times and 6 band sts in garter st = 302-369-432 sts. Work K over K and P over P and band sts in garter st. Continue as follows (seen from from RS): 6 sts in garter st, [diagram A-1 (= 24 sts), P 14-13-12], repeat from [-] 6-8-10 more times, A-1 and 6 sts in garter st. Insert a marker after 75-92-108 sts in from each side (= 152-185-216 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures approx. 5-7-9 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st in every P-section by P the first 2 sts tog (i.e. dec 7-9-11 sts on row). Repeat dec every 6th row 11-10-9 more times – NOTE: Dec alternately at the end and beg of every P-section. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-8-9 cm, cast off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. After all dec in P-sections, 218-270-322 sts remain on needle and only 2 P sts between every A-1 (piece now measures approx. 29 cm). Continue until piece measures approx. 33-35-36 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), now inc 1 st in every P-section by making 1 YO after last P st in every P-section, on next row (from WS) K YOs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 6th row 3-2-2 more times – NOTE: Inc alternately before and after all P sts by making 1 YO. When all inc are done, there are 6-5-5 P sts in every P-section and 246-297-355 sts in total on needle.
READ UNTIL LEFT FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!

COLLAR:
When piece measures 41-42-43 cm, inc 1 st in each side towards mid front for collar - SEE INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every other row 11 more times and then every 4th row 6 times = 18 sts inc for collar and 24 sts in garter st in total.
NECKLINE:
At the same time, 2 cm after beg inc for collar, dec 1 st in each side for neck - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other row 5 more times and then every 4th row 6 times (i.e. half of A-1 in each side has been dec, continue with K 2 in the middle of diagram where there used to be a cable over 4 sts).
ARMHOLES:
At the same time when piece measures approx. 51-52-53 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), cast off for armholes as follows: Size S/M and L/XL: Cast off 6 sts in the side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of markers in the sides). SIZE XXL/XXXL: Cast off 7 sts in the side, i.e. the 5 P sts where marker is + 1 st on each side of these. Finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Then cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-1-3 times, 2 sts 3-3-4 times and 1 st 5-4-6 times. After all cast offs for armhole, dec for neck and inc for collar, 55-66-70 sts remain on shoulder. There is now ½ repetition of A-1 towards the neck before collar in all sizes, there is also ½ repetition towards the armhole in the smallest size. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole. When piece measures approx. 70-73-76 cm, adjust after one whole or half repetition of A-1 vertically, dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions and 6 sts evenly over the whole ones (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 49-57-61 sts.
On next row from RS, cast off the first 25-33-37 sts for shoulder, K the last 24 sts in garter st. Then work back and forth in garter st over these sts for collar as follows: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the outermost 18 sts (towards mid front) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 5½ cm at the inside on the most narrow part, cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed. After sts for shoulder have been cast off (from RS so that same no of rows have been worked on both front pieces), cut the thread at the end of row.
Continue working the collar starting from WS.

BACK PIECE:
= 114-139-167 sts. Continue to cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as on front piece = 92-113-121 sts. Continue the pattern with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx. 68-71-74 cm (adjust so that last row worked is 1 of the rows marked with 1 arrow in diagram), then on next row (= RS), cast off the middle 24-23-23 sts for neck, work the rest of row, finish each shoulder separately in pattern.
LEFT SHOULDER: Work 1 row from WS, cast off 2 sts at beg of next row (= towards neck) = 32-43-47 sts. K 1 row from WS. On next row (= RS), dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions of A-1 and 6 sts evenly over the whole repetitions of A-1 (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 26-34-38 sts. Cast off on next row (= WS).
There is 1 st more on shoulder on back piece than on front piece, this is because the collar is to be sewn inside 1 st on back piece.
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Beg mid back, i.e. from WS, cast off 2 sts at beg of row (= 32-43-47 sts remain on shoulder). Work 1 row from RS and 1 row from WS. On next row (= RS), dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions of A-1 and 6 sts evenly over the whole repetitions of A-1 (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 26-34-38 sts. Cast off on next row (= WS).

SLEEVE:
First work the cuff sideways, back and forth on circular needle.

CUFF:
Cast on 22 sts on needle size 4 mm with Lima. K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows: 1 st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 2, K 2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K 4), P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st = 28 sts. Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P with 1 st in garter st in one side and 3 sts in garter st in the other side. Continue with A-1 until 4-4-5 repetitions have been worked vertically, then work the first 2 rows in A-1 one more time (piece measures approx. 24-24-30 cm). Work next row as follows (= RS): 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 tog, K 2 tog, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st = 22 sts. K 1 row from WS over all sts, then cast off. Edge is approx. 10 cm wide, continue with sleeve.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm.
Knit up along the edge where there is only 1 garter st - knit up 1 st in every ridge (= 2 K rows). K 1 row from WS while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 52-54-62. Then K 1 row from RS, the continue in reverse stocking st. When piece measures 15 cm in total, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-2 cm 10-13-13 more times = 74-82-90 sts. When piece measures 48-45-43 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6-7-9 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 57-55-54 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 58-56-55 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew collar tog mid back and sew it on to neck line inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve seams – sew cuff edge to edge (cast on edge against cast off edge) to avoid a chunky seam, sew the rest of sleeve inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeves in body and sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Celtica

Rebecca McDonough, United States

Celtica

Inga Sõelsepp, Estonia

Celtica

Lineke, Netherlands

Nightingowl's Celtica

Ronja, Germany

Celtica

Lilly Smuul‎, Ireland

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 143-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (468)

country flag Barbara Michel wrote:

Sehr schönes Modell, gute Anleitung. Ich bin nur an einer Stelle ins Stolpern gersten: für das Ärmelband sollen für Größe S 4 Mustersätze gestrickt werden. Das ergibt bei mir eine Länge von 48 cm, statt 24 cm. Ich habe auf 2 Mustersätze verkürzt. Ist die Angabe in der Anleitung korrekt?

04.02.2024 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Michel, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Beachen Sie, daß alle Reihen im Diagram gezeichnet sind. Beachen Sie, daß alle Reihen im Diagram gezeichnet sind. 2 Reihen am Anfang + 4 x 16 Reihen M.1 + 2 Reihen = 68 Reihen mit 28 Reihen = 10 cm soll die Arbeit ca 24 cm messen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2024 - 09:21

country flag Lilian Lingwood wrote:

To the right of the chart there are two arrows. What do those arrows mean? Beautiful pattern.

04.08.2023 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lilian, these arrows specify the position of the pattern - see pattern text. Happy knitting!

05.08.2023 - 15:42

country flag Petra wrote:

Am Ende der Vorderteile soll der Kragen weitergestrickt werden mit je * 2 R 24 M und je 2 R 18 M * . *-* Was mache ich mit den 6 M, wenn ich nur 18 stricke?

12.05.2023 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, für den Kragen strickt man verkürzten Reihen, so daß die innen Seite (die am Halsausschnitt (Rückenteil) genäht wird) kürzer als die außen Seite wird. So strickt man 2 Reihen über alle Maschen und 2 Reihen über nur 18 Maschen (die 6 übrigen Maschen werden nicht gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.05.2023 - 07:57

country flag Nansku wrote:

Tuleeko vasemman etukappaleen kavennukset aloittaa samaan aikaan kun kauhuksen lisäykset?

14.12.2022 - 11:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, vasemman etukappaleen kavennukset aloitetaan vasta, kun työ on jaettu kädenteitä varten.

09.01.2023 - 14:10

country flag Anna wrote:

Hello. Do you have the pattern in German?

26.08.2022 - 05:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, sure, all our patterns are available in German - click on the scroll down menu below the photo to edit language. Happy knitting!

26.08.2022 - 09:48

country flag Silvia wrote:

Grazie x la risposta, caspita,devo rifare tutta la giacca , perché se sono 16 ferri andata e ritorno ho sbagliato completamente la treccia

22.06.2022 - 10:17

country flag Silvia wrote:

Buongiorno sono sempre Silvia, si,so che i polsini sono lavorati a parte, non capisco le 4 ripetizioni....il diagramma è formato da 16 ferri di andata,che con il ritorno fanno 32 ferri, giusto?... Ma se lavoro 32 ferri x 4 volte viene un polsino lunghissimo e di conseguenza troppo largo .. non capisco cosa non mi quadra... grazie ancora x la risposta

21.06.2022 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Silvia, i diagrammi DROPS mostrano tutti i ferri/giri del motivo, sia di andatache ritorno. Buon lavoro!

22.06.2022 - 08:56

country flag Silvia wrote:

Gentilissimi buonasera,lamia prima domanda sul modello è stata più di un anno fa, risposta chiarissima,solo che la giacca l'ho iniziata 15 gg fa....sono agli Scalfi,penso di aver capito,la mia domanda riguarda i polsini....4 ripetizioni del diagramma , non sono troppe,?verrebbe un polsino larghissimo.,... Come si contano queste ripetizioni? Grazie per la risposta

19.06.2022 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, i polsini sono lavorati a parte e sono formati da una striscia con delle ripetizioni del diagramma A.1, poi vengono riprese le maglie e si lavorano le maniche. Nel suo caso deve lavorare 4 ripetizioni del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

19.06.2022 - 23:13

country flag Stephanie wrote:

I am totally baffled by this instruction for the Left Front Piece: When piece measures approx. 70-73-76 cm / 27½"-28 3/4"-30", stop after one whole or half repetition of A-1 vertically, dec 3 sts evenly over the half repetitions and 6 sts evenly over the whole ones (i.e. dec 6-9-9 sts in total) = 49-57-61 sts. How can dec 3 sts then dec 6 sts = 6sts in total?

03.04.2022 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stephanie, you decrease 3 stitches over the half repeat of A.1 and decrease 6 sts over the whole repeats; ie in in first size you decrease only 6 sts. Happy knitting!

04.04.2022 - 10:41

country flag Marielle JACQUEMIN wrote:

Le bas de la veste me paraît large?

14.03.2022 - 11:01