DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 144.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 141-16
DROPS design: Pattern no z-618
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 7815, green/turquoise:
200-250-250-300-300-350 g
Colour no 7895, dark green:
200-250-250-300-300-350 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for rib.
DROPS INKA W/LOOP BUTTON NO 531: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 144.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS. Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K the next 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, work 2 sts (marker is between these 2 sts), make 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

TUBE KNITTING:
Work a tube with 4 sts on double pointed needles as follows: Knit up 1 st, turn and K in back and front loop of this st = 2 sts, turn and K in back and front loops of these 2 sts = 4 sts. Then work as follows: * Slide all sts to the right side of double pointed needle without turning the piece, tighten thread and K over the 4 sts *, repeat from *-*. When tube has been worked, do not cast off but cut the threads and pull thread ends through all sts, fasten the threads.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 165-177-197-217-241-265 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread in each colour Alpaca. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib until piece measures 4 cm. On last row from WS, P while AT THE SAME TIME dec 29-29-33-37-41-45 sts evenly on row = 136-148-164-180-200-220 sts. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Insert a marker 34-37-41-45-50-55 sts in from each side (= 68-74-82-90-100-110 sts between markers on back piece). Move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 5 cm, dec on next row from RS 1 st on each side of every marker - READ DECREASE TIP = 4 sts dec on needle. Repeat dec every 3½-4-4-4½-4½-5 cm 2 more times (a total of 3 times) = 124-136-152-168-188-208 sts. Continue until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm. On next row from RS, inc 1 st on each side of every marker - READ INCREASE TIP = 4 sts inc on needle. Repeat inc every 7 cm a total of 3 times = 136-148-164-180-200-220 sts.
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-74-82-90-100-110 sts. Continue in stocking st - AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-1-4-4-4-3 times = 58-62-64-68-72-74 sts remain on needle. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 20-22-22-24-24-26 sts for neck. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 17-18-19-20-22-22 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-37-41-45-50-55 sts. Cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm, cast off for neck from RS as follows: Cast off the first 5 sts on needle. Then cast off at beg of every row from RS as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5-3-3-4-4-5 times. After all cast offs are done, 17-18-19-20-22-22 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-46-48-50-52-52 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 1st round as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*. Continue rib until piece measures 4 cm. K next round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly on round = 36-38-40-42-44-44 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and then work in stocking st. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc 6-7-8-9-10-11 more times (= a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 times) every 6-5-4½-3½-3-3 cm = 50-54-58-62-66-68 sts. When piece measures 48-47-46-45-44-43 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap), cast off 3 sts on each side of marker (= 6 sts cast off mid under sleeve). Then work back and forth on needle until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 3-3-3-4-4-4 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 57 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

RIGHT BAND:
Worked back and forth on needle. Knit up from RS on circular needle size 4.5 mm inside 1 edge st along right front piece as follow: Beg from bottom edge, knit up approx. 90 to 110 sts. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 93-99-99-105-109-109. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. Work 1 row rib from WS. On next row from RS, cast off for buttonholes as follows: Work 4 sts, * work the next 2 sts tog and make one YO, work 13-14-14-15-13-13 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 5-5-5-5-6-6 times, work the next 2 sts tog and make one YO, work the remaining 12-13-13-14-13-13 sts on needle = 6-6-6-6-7-7 buttonholes. Continue rib until band measures approx. 2½ cm, loosely cast off all sts with K over K and P and P.

LEFT BAND:
Work as right band but without buttonholes.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Knit up from RS on circular needle size 4.5 mm as follows: Knit up approx. 110 to 130 sts inside 1 edge st along the entire neck edge (incl bands). P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 107-111-115-121-125-129. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. Work 1 row rib from WS. On next row from RS, cast off for the last buttonhole as follows: Work 4 sts, work the next 2 sts tog and make one YO, work rest of row. Continue rib until edge measures approx. 2½ cm, loosely cast off all sts with K over K and P and P.

CABLE:
Knit up 1 st in the middle st on sleeve cap at the top of one sleeve, work TUBE KNITTING - read explanation - for approx. 13-14-14-15-16-16 cm. Knit up 1 st the same way on each side of the middle st and work 2 tubes the same way = 3 tubes. Braid the tubes into a cable (approx. 10-11-11-12-13-13 cm), sew ends tog and fasten them on the shoulder where neck edge was knit up.
Knit up 3 tubes the same way on the other shoulder.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work rib = K 1/P 1. Loosely cast off all sts when pocket measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm. Make another pocket the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band. Sew pockets on to front piece, approx. 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm from edge mid front and approx. 2 cm above rib edge at the bottom edge.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Anneke Janssen wrote:

Ik heb het patroon Drops 141-16 voor iemand gebreid, daarvoor kreeg ik het tijdschrift waar het patroon in stond. Nu blijkt dat de dame in kwestie het tijdschrift geleend had, en, ai ai, ik ben het kwijt. Kunt u me nog een dat tijdschrift helpen? Tegen betaling? Ik hoop het.

26.04.2022 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

De tijdschriften worden via de verkooppunten verdeeld, dus je zou het beste even bij een van onze verkooppunten kunnen vragen of ze daar toevallig nog eentje hebben liggen.

28.04.2022 - 10:17

country flag Mary wrote:

I can't figure out how many stitches to knit before each decrease in the last row of rib which requires decreasing 37 stitches evenly over 217 sts to give 180stitches left. Would you be able to let me know how many stitches I should knit between each decrease?

20.12.2021 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, this lesson explains how to decrease/increase evenly and will help you to calculate how many stitches you will have to work between each decrease. Happy knitting!

21.12.2021 - 07:27

country flag Mary wrote:

Thank you for your answer. Please confirm that I understand your answer correctly. The size on the pattern is the person's size. This implies that the knitted garment will be bigger when finished. So, for example, bust size 34 5/8" on the pattern means that the knitted garment will be bigger when completed. How much bigger will the garment be?

18.12.2021 - 23:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, no, the measurements are that of the garnment. Not of the bust to fit. So the garnment' bust will measure 34 5/8", which means the bust to fit should be smaller. Happy knitting!

19.12.2021 - 18:21

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, I have a question about size. Is the size quoted at Bust size the actual size of the finished garment? Or is it to fit the bust size and the actual finished size is bigger? e.g. Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm. Does this mean that the actual size of finished garment is 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm ? Thank you.

18.12.2021 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, the cm in the sketch of the garnment are the measurements of the garnment. In this case, it would be the actual bust size and not the size to fit. Happy knitting!

18.12.2021 - 23:03

country flag LEONOR SKEWES wrote:

Hi I have a question: ¿what does it means "tube knitting" ? which part of the sweater is? Thanks Leonor

08.09.2021 - 02:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leonor, We always suggest that before starting a pattern read though it carefully. Tube knitting is basically an Icord, that is braided into a cable pattern. Happy Stitching!

08.09.2021 - 03:00

country flag Diane Dahl wrote:

Jag förstår inte hur jag ska göra nu. ”När arb mäter 38cm delad arb vid markörerna och varje del stickas färdig för sig =74m. Osv hela det stycket och ner till HÖGER FRAMST.

02.03.2021 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Diane. Du har tidligere satt 2 merketråder i arbeidet (i sidene), du skal nå dele arbeidet og strikke hvert forstykke og bakstykke for seg selv. Sett f.eks maskene til venstre forstykket på høyre pinne eller bruke en annen pinne. Start ved bakstykket (ny tråd) og fell på begynnelsen av pinnen 3 masker (til ermhull), strikk 71 masker, du er nå ved det andre merket (siden), snu og fell 3 masker. Følg oppskriften på hvor mange masker og hvor mange ganger det skal felles til ermhull. Fortsett i glattstrikk med 1 kantmaske i rille i hver side. mvh DROPS design

10.03.2021 - 12:54

country flag Xenia wrote:

Ich habe diese Jacke in Größe S gestrickt und die angegebene Menge an Garn bestellt. Leider reichte diese Menge nur um die Jacke gerade so fertig zu stellen. Jetzt fehlt mir noch Garn für die Kordeln und die Taschen. Vielleicht lieber ein Knäuel pro Farbe mehr bestellen.

20.02.2015 - 12:44

country flag Anja wrote:

Ist es auch bei der linken Blende notwendig, die Maschenaufnahmen von unten zu beginnen? Das macht sich nämlich wirklich schlecht, weil ich das Strickstück nicht so gut greifen kann. LG Anja

19.01.2015 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Nein, die linke Blende arbeiten Sie von oben nach unten, sonst geht das wirklich schlecht. Sie müssen die M auf jeden Fall in der Hi-R auffassen und das geht nur, wenn Sie oben am Halsrand beginnen. Gutes Gelingen beim Beenden dieser schönen Jacke und viel Spaß beim Tragen!

19.01.2015 - 14:46

country flag Pauline wrote:

Hello, I'm casting off the back pieces now. Do I cast off on the right side? It says cast of 3 stitches one time at the start of each row? Do I do this first on the right side and then on the wrong side? Or should I cast off 3 stitches at the start and then 3 stitches at the end of the row? Thanks

15.01.2015 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pauline, you will dec at the beg of the next 2 rows, ie cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next RS row, then cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next WS row (= you have cast off 3 sts each side). Happy knitting!

15.01.2015 - 14:25

country flag Chiti wrote:

¿Dónde puedo encontrar las agujas circulares cortas que me indicas?

10.10.2014 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Chiti, puedes encontrarlas en las tiendas DROPS. Están indicadas en la pagina principal, pestaña: "Tiendas DROPS".

13.10.2014 - 13:16