The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 78-30 |
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DROPS Top in Paris with beads and seed stitch
DROPS 78-30 |
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Rib: Row 1: * K 2, P 1 *, repeat from * - *. Row 2: * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from * - *. Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts): Row 1: * K 1, P 1 * Row 2: * P 1, K 1 * Repeat Rows 1-2. Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows. Bead pattern: The pattern is knit in seed st with 1 bead knit in every 5 sts. Decreasing tips-1 (for dart): All decs are made from right side. Dec 1 st as follows after 1st marker: K 2 tog. Dec 1 st as follows 2 sts before 2nd marker: Sl 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso. Decreasing tips-2 (for armhole): Dec 1 st at each side by K 2 tog the last sts on the row. FRONT Cast on 62-71-77-83-92 sts on smaller needles. Knit rib for 3 cm, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st, decreasing on the first row: Size XS/S: no decrease Sizes S/M + M/L + XL: 1 st Size XXL: 2 sts = 62-70-76-82-90 sts. At the same time after 1 row of stockinette st put a marker 17-20-23-25-28 sts in from each side (= 28-30-30-32-34 sts between markers). When the piece measures 6 cm dec 1 st after 1st marker and 1 st before 2nd marker – see knitting tips-1: every 4 rows 3 times = 56-64-70-76-84 sts. When the piece measures 14-15-16-14-15 cm inc 1 st after 1st marker and 1 st before 2nd marker - inc by pulling up sts from the previous row and knit these sts in stockinette st. Inc every 4 rows 5-5-5-6-6 times = 66-74-80-88-96 sts. Read the entire next section before knitting: Put a marker at center front – this is to calculate where to start the Bead Pattern. Pattern: When the piece measures 26-27-28-28-29 cm knit seed st to finished measurements. Armhole: At the same time when the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 4-6-7-9-10 sts 1 time and 1 st 5-7-8-10-12 times – see knitting tips-2. Beads: At the same time when the piece measures 32-33-35-36-38 cm - adjust so that the next row is a right side row – cut yarn and thread in 7 beads. Knit 1 row with Bead pattern over the center 30 sts - start 15 sts before the center front marker and knit in 1 bead, then knit in 1 bead every 5 sts. After the Bead pattern knit 1 row seed st, then knit 2 rows garter st over the center 28-28-30-30-32 sts (knit the remaining sts in seed st as before). Neck and strap: On the next row bind off the center 28-28-30-30-32 sts for the neck. Knit the remaining 10 sts at each side (= shoulder-band) in seed st. When the shoulder strap measures 2 cm dec 1 st at neck edge = 9 sts remain. Bind off in pattern when shoulder strap measures 22-24-24-26-26 cm. BACK Cast on and knit the same as the front. Knit seed st and bind off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 38-39-41-42-44 cm cut yarn and knit in beads the same as on front. After bead row knit 1 row seed st, then knit 2 rows garter st over the center 30-30-32-32-34 sts (knit the remaining sts in seed st as before). On the next row bind off all sts. ASSEMBLY Sew straps to back at each side. Sew side seams using edge sts as seam allowance. ---------------------------------------------------------- CARDIGAN – click here: pattern no 78-17 ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (21)
Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour je ne comprends pas il doit avoir une erreur quelque art au niveau du dos vous dites qu'il faut rab ts les m a 44cm ce n'est pas possible car j'ai fait 1x 10 m et 1X12 et les 44cm sont 1cm apres les dim donc on rab aussitôt ça veut dire qu'on fait pas droit apres les emm ou c'est plus que 44cm vos explications sont tres compliquées aidez moi merci
07.03.2016 - 21:36DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, on commence le dos comme pour le devant: on monte le même nombre de mailles, on tricote le point de riz et on fait les emmanchures comme pour le devant, mais à 44 cm, vous tricotez le point perlé, 1 rang point de riz et 2 rangs point mousse sur les m centrales avec les autres au point de riz et vous rabattez les mailles du dos. Il sera donc plus haut que le devant avant que l'on commence les bretelles et les bretelles seront cousues de chaque côté. Bon tricot!
08.03.2016 - 08:26Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour excusez moi de vous redéranger mais j'attends toujours votre réponse merci de me répondre
04.03.2016 - 10:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, on rabat les mailles du dos 4 rangs (= 1 rang point de riz perlé + 1 rang point de riz + 1 rang point de riz avec les 30-34 m centrales au point mousse) après les 38-44 cm de hauteur totale, soit quelques cm après cette hauteur indiquée, c'est-à-dire la hauteur correspondant à ces 4 rangs supplémentaires. Bon tricot!
04.03.2016 - 13:41Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour oui ça j'ai compris mais vous ne repondez pas a ma question c'est vague a quelle hauteur par rapport au devant dois je rabattre tts les mailles du dos tout en haut a la hauteur des bretelles ou a la moitie des bretelles aidez moi merci
29.02.2016 - 16:46Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour je suis desolée mais j'ai du mal avec le dos on rabat toutes les mailles a la hauteur totale des bretelles ou non j'ai du mal a comprendre merci de m'aider
28.02.2016 - 12:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, on rabat toutes les mailles du dos, les bretelles tricotées avec le devant sont ensuite cousues au dos. Bon tricot!
29.02.2016 - 10:20Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour je suis desolée mais je ne comprends pas bien le dos est t'il plus haut que le devant ou a la même hauteur je le fait plus haut que vos explications merci de m'aider
26.02.2016 - 09:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, le dos sera plus haut que le devant, tricotez pour le dos à 38-44 cm ce que vous avez fait à 32-38 cm (cf taille) pour le devant, mais on tricote plus de mailles au point mousse au milieu et on rabat toutes les mailles (les bretelles sont cousues au dos). Bon tricot!
26.02.2016 - 16:16Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour je voudrais savoir a quelle hauteur totale dois je rabattre toutes les mailles pour le dos merci de m'aider
25.02.2016 - 10:57DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, rabattez les mailles du dos après avoir tricoté le point fantaisie perlé comme pour le devant à 38-44 cm + encore 3 rangs (= 1 rang point de riz + 2 rangs au point mousse sur les 30-34 m centrales). Bon tricot!
25.02.2016 - 13:22Pautrot wrote:
Bonjour j'aimerais savoir si je commence le point de riz au niveau de l'emmanchure je le fait plus long que l'explications merci de me répondre
19.02.2016 - 17:00DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pautrot, dans le modèle, le point de riz commence 4-6 cm (cf taille) avant les emmanchures, mais vous pouvez tout à fait ajuster à votre préférence. Bon tricot!
20.02.2016 - 12:30RICHARD Ghislaine wrote:
Je voudrais la correspondance des tailles. Merci
09.06.2015 - 06:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Richard, vous trouverez à la fin des explications un schéma avec toutes les mesures prises à plat, d'un côté à l'autre. Comparez ces mesures à un modèle similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme pour trouver la taille à suivre. Bon tricot!
09.06.2015 - 08:54Casanova wrote:
Bonjour, la longueur de la bretelle est je pense 12cm au lieu de 22cm ce qui fait comme décrit sur le modèle 17cm depuis l'emmanchure . merci
12.05.2014 - 13:47DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Casanova, la longueur des bretelles est bien de 22 cm elles sont cousues ensuite au dos. Les 17 cm sont la hauteur à partir de l'emmanchure jusqu'aux épaules. Bon tricot!
12.05.2014 - 14:16Donna Campillo wrote:
Name this sweater Seabee
09.05.2014 - 05:04