DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-843
DROPS design: Pattern no E-192
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. diameter 21 cm / 8 1/4''.

For 2 pot holders:
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g color no 03, mint green
50 g color no 11, strong yellow
50 g color no 28, orange

Or use:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 08, vanilla
50 g colour no 06, light blue
50 g colour no 19, light turquoise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 24 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every round with ch 1 and finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every round with ch 3 and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
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POT HOLDER:
Crochet one front and one back and then crochet these two tog to make a pot holder.

FRONT:
Ch 4 on hook size 3 mm / C with strong yellow and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 11 dc in ch-ring and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc.
ROUND 2: ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in first ch, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in sl st from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: Fold the ch spaces towards you and ch 1, 1 sc in ch from 2nd round (i.e. work at the back of previous round with ch spaces), * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch from 2nd round, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: Work sl st until the middle of first ch-space from 4th round. 1 sc, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space (from 4th round) *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 4 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: ch 1, then work as follows in every ch space: 1 sc, ch 1, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, ch 1 and 1 sc. Finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 12 filled ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: Work sl st until dc at the top of first filled ch-space, 1 sc in dc, * ch 6, 1 sc in dc in next filled ch-space*, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 6 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 7 dc in the same ch-space. Then work 8 dc in every ch-space, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 96 dc.
ROUND 9: 1 ch (= 1 sc), then work 1 sc in every dc, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 96 sc.
ROUND 10: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 11: 1 sl st in first ch space, ch 1 (= 1 sc), then work 2 sc in each of the next ch-spaces the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 95 sc.
ROUND 12: ch 1 (= 1 sc), 1 sc in same st, * 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 2 sc in next st and 1 sc in each of the last 3 sc and 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 115 sc.
ROUND 13: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 1, * skip 1 sc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sc, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round, skip last sc and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 23 dc-groups with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 14: ch 1 (= 1 sc), 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 sl st in the first of the 3 ch (= 1 picot), 1 dc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip ch, * 1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 picot, 1 dc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 15: Work sl st until the top of the first picot, 1 sc at the top of picot, * ch 7, 1 sc at the top of next picot *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 7 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round = 23 ch-spaces. Fasten off.

BACK:
Ch 4 on hook size 3 mm / C with mint green and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Work 12 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every dc = 24 sc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 dc in every sc = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: Work 2 sc in every dc = 48 sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every sc = 48 dc.
ROUND 6: * Work 1 sc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 dc in every sc = 64 dc.
ROUND 8: * Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 80 sc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every sc = 80 dc.
ROUND 10: * Work 1 sc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 sc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 dc in every sc = 96 dc.
ROUND 12: * Work 1 sc in each of the first 5 dc, 2 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 112 sc.
ROUND 13: Work 1 dc in every sc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 3 dc evenly on round (inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st) = 115 dc.
ROUND 14: Work 1 sc in every dc = 115 sc.
ROUND 15: Work 1 dc in every sc = 115 dc.
Fasten off. NOTE: Make sure that the back has the same measurements as the front. If needed adjust the size by removing one round or working one extra round with 1 sc or dc in every st.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the front piece (with RS up) on top of the back piece and work tog with orange through both layers as follows: Work around the ch-spaces on front piece while AT THE SAME TIME working through every dc on back piece with 1 sc in every dc so that there are 5 sc in every ch-space the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Ch 12 (for strap), fasten with 1 sl st in sl st worked to finish the round. Then work 1 sc in every sc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in sl st by the strap. Fasten off.
If needed sew a stitch through both layers on the pot holder to hold the front and back piece tog in the middle.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Annette Bach wrote:

Hej 😊 Under montering står der at jeg skal "hækle sammen med appelsin"??? Det må da være en slåfejl, men hvad skal jeg så i stedet?🤔 Mvh Annette

24.05.2020 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, jo det er den orangefarvede vi har hæklet de to stykker sammen med. God fornøjelse!

27.05.2020 - 13:47

country flag Anja Spindler wrote:

Hallo, in der Häkelinfo der Anleitung befindet sich ein Fehler. Da steht: die erste fM jeder Runde wird mit 1 fM ersetzt... Es sollte aber heisen: die erste fM jeder Runde wird mit 1 LM ersetzt! LG Anja

27.04.2015 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, das wird gleich korrigiert! Viel Spaß beim Weiterhäkeln!

27.04.2015 - 15:11

country flag Smits wrote:

Ik heb het patroon toegekregen waarvoor dank MAAR ik heb enkel de uitleg voor het haken van de voor- en achterkant en heb geen idee hoe ik die bloem in het midden moet beginnen maken. Er staat enkel haak 4 l en zonnebloem. Kan u mij daarmee helpen aub. Bedankt.

06.04.2015 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Het patroon is compleet. Zonnebloem is de naam van de kleur geel. Als u de voorkant haakt zoals aangegeven staat, ziet u vanzelf de bloem in het midden ontstaan, die wordt niet los gehaakt maar is onderdeel van de voorkant.

07.04.2015 - 11:44

country flag Kat wrote:

Can you tell me what this is supposed to be ? Is it a trivet or a placemat or a doiley ? Pretty.

20.03.2015 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kat, it is a pot holder, thank you. Happy crocheting!

21.03.2015 - 10:42

country flag Bi wrote:

Ik heb namen voor dit smakvolle ding. Een Pannenzon of Passenzon of Zonnebloem voor Paasdag...

05.03.2015 - 23:39

country flag Tove Dunseth wrote:

Den ser fin ut. fikk lyst å hekle et par.

09.09.2013 - 18:53

country flag Alice Wemper wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht was mit "den Lm-Bogen gegen sich falten" in der 4. Runde der Vorderseite gemeint ist und finde auch nichts dazu in Büchern und dem Internet. Wäre sehr dankbar, wenn man das ausführlicher erklären könnte.

11.03.2013 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alice, Sie klappen den Bogen quasi etwas weg, um an die Maschen der 2. Rd zu gelangen.

12.03.2013 - 12:30

country flag Kaja wrote:

Tagumine pool 3. RING: tee 2 sm igasse ks-sse = 24 sm. peab olema 1 sm igasse ks-sse

16.12.2012 - 00:03

country flag Margreet wrote:

De tweede is bijna af! (1 bolletje van elke kleur is genoeg voor 2 stuks). Leuk om even tussendoor te haken, mooi patroon.

02.06.2012 - 21:05