DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
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DROPS 139-8
DROPS design: Pattern no E-188
Yarn group A
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Size: One-size

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 28, orange
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 06, rust

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 1 square = approx. 6 x 6 cm (with a light pull) and 24 sts x 16 rows with PATTERN = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
ROUNDS WITH TR: Replace first tr at beg of every round with 3 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUNDS WITH DC: Replace first dc at beg of every round with 1 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.

PATTERN:
ROUND 1 (Safran): 1 dc in every tr.
ROUND 2 (Safran): 4 ch, skip 1 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3 (Cotton Viscose): 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc in every ch.
ROUND 4 (Safran): 1 tr in every dc.
ROUND 5 (Cotton Viscose): 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 6 (Safran): 1 tr in every tr.
Repeat rounds 1 to 6.
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HAT:
First work the squares – they are gradually worked tog. Then work along the one side of squares and up to top (= the crown of the hat). Then work along the other side of squares and outwards (= the brim of the hat).

SQUARE 1:
Also see diagram M.1.
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 3 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), work 11 tr in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2 (switch to Cotton Viscose): Work 2 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 1 ch * 1 dc in next tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, 1 dc in 2nd ch from previous round, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch from previous round *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 12 ch-loops.
ROUND 4 (switch back to Safran): 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 8 ch (= corner), 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next ch-loop). Cut and fasten all the threads.

SQUARE 2:
Start with Cotton Viscose and work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round but switch yarn type so that Cotton Viscose is used on 1st round and Safran on 2nd and 3rd round.
ROUND 4: Also see diagram M.2.
Work with Safran as follows: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 dc in one of the large ch-loops on SQUARE 1 (= corner), 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next small ch-loop on SQUARE 1, 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, 4 ch, 1 dc in next large ch-loop on SQUARE 1 (= corner), 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2. Then work around SQUARE 2 as follows: ** 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut and fasten all the threads.

Now work SQUARE 1 and SQUARE 2 alternately (while at the same time working them tog as described on round 4 on SQUARE 2) until a total of 8 squares have been worked. The last square is worked tog with both the next to last and the first square so that the squares form a circle.

CROWN OF HAT:
READ CROCHET INFO ABOVE. Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm along one side of the squares as follows: 5 tr in each of the large ch-loops in the corners on the squares and 3 tr in each of the small ch-loops = 16 tr per square and 128 tr in total. Then work PATTERN - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 12 cm (incl squares) – adjust so that next round is a round with only tr or dc – dec 16 sts evenly by skipping every 8th st = 112 sts. Repeat dec every other round 3 more times and then on every round 3 times (1 st less between dec for every dec round where 1 st is skipped, i.e next round with dec skip 7th st, and next time the 6th and so on - NOTE: On 2nd round in pattern, skip 2 dc instead of 1 dc when dec) = 16 sts remain. Finally work 1 round with dc and skip every other st = 8 sts. The piece now measures approx. 19-20 cm vertically. Cut the thread and pull it through the 8 remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

BRIM OF HAT:
Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm on the other side of squares the same way as along the first side, i.e. 5 tr in each of the large ch-loops and 3 tr in each of the small ch-loops = 128 tr. The brim is only worked with Safran as follows:
ROUND 2: 1 dc in every tr but work 2 dc in every 8th tr (i.e. inc 16 sts) = 144 dc.
ROUND 3: 1 tr in every dc.
ROUND 4: 1 dc in every tr but work 2 dc in every 9th tr = 160 dc.
ROUND 5: 1 tr in every dc.
Continue working 1 round tr and 1 round dc alternately while at the same time inc 16 sts on every dc round until there are 192 sts on round.
Then continue with tr and dc on every other round (but without inc) – until brim measures approx. 8 cm. Cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 tr
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo. Tut mir leid aber ich verstehe die Abnahme leider immer noch nicht.... in der ersten Abnahmerunde mit fm oder stb nehme ich 16 Maschen ab indem ich jede 8. Masche überspringe. In der zweiten Abnahmerunde sofern diese fm oder stb sind nehme ich ebenso wieder 16 Maschen auf die gleiche Weise ab und häkel dreimal zwischen den Abnahmen eine Masche weniger usw. Ist das korrekt?

05.07.2019 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, also ja 16 M werden so abgenommen aber in jeder 2. Runde noch 3 Mal un dann in jeder Runde 3 Mal - bei der 2. Abnahmenrunde überspringen Sie jede 7. Masche, dann bei der 3. Abnahmenrunde überspringen Sie jede 6. Masche usw. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.07.2019 - 14:09

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo. Ich hab eine Frage zur Abnahme am Hut oben. In der Anleitung steht jede 8 Masche überspringen bis es 116 Maschen sind und dann drei Mal in jeder. Heißt hier jede 2. Runde die Runde des Musters? Also 4 lm eine fm überspringen usw? Und dreimal heißt dann 48 Maschen abnehmen? Vielen Dank.

01.07.2019 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, die Abnahmen werden nur entweder auf eine Runde mit fM oder auf eine mit nur Stb (=wenn Sie dann in jeder Runde abnehmen, bei der 2. Reihe im Muster die Abnahmen so anpassen, daß Sie 2 M anstatt 1 M überspringen). Wenn es nur 16 M bleiben, übespringen Sie alle 2. Masche. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.07.2019 - 15:30

country flag Sonia I Pizarro wrote:

Ok, I feel very confused with the furst section of the patterm. It says to do a sc in each dc, but it does not said how to begin, or how many chains and how many dc you have to make to start. Reading in the comments I found that you explain to do 24 stitches. So I have a couple of questions: Does this mean that the first row od dc does not count towards tne 10”x10” square? So this first 6 rows it’s only for the purpose of gauge measuring?

10.01.2019 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pizarro, the pattern does start with HAT (the informations before are just some further explanations to the pattern). You first crochet a total of 8 squares (square-1 and 2) work them into a circle and then crochet first the crown of hat (bottom up) and finally the brim. For your gauge, 1 square should be approx. 2½" x 2½" and 24 sts x 16 rows in pattern (= 1 row sc, 1 row dc) = 4"x4". Happy crocheting!

11.01.2019 - 09:17

country flag Dianne wrote:

Both the yarn and pattern are lovely to work with, however, now that I am almost done (measured and counted frequently) I have some size issues, so want to clarify a few sections. Crown: dec 16 sts evenly by skipping every 8th stitch - am I literally skipping the 8th stitch or is is a 2tog decrease. My brim was not as illustrated, it is completely flopped downward and I cannot see what I have done wrong.

14.08.2015 - 03:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dianne, you have to skip litterally every 8th st to dec 16 sts evenly. Remember to check and keep your gauge (24 sts x 16 rows in pattern) = 10 x 10 cm. Happy crocheting!

14.08.2015 - 10:06

country flag Julia wrote:

Please explain what is required to obtain the necessary tension/ gauge for this pattern - 24sts x 16 rows (confused by this part of the instructions). Thank you. Julia

13.07.2015 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julia, work the 6 rows in pattern (see at the beg of the pattern) over 24 sts for 16 rows, this should measure 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4"). Happy crocheting!

27.07.2015 - 11:21

country flag Mariangeles wrote:

Cuál es el truco para que el ala del sombrero tenga forma? y que además se quede levantada?

22.06.2015 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mariangeles, puedes trabajar los pts del ala con más tensión y usar laca de pelo para darle un poco de forma.

24.06.2015 - 10:27

country flag Jette wrote:

Hvis man skal hækle 8 firkanter af 6 cm, kan omkredsen på hatten kun blive 48 cm , det er da til et meget lille hovede. Er det en fejl ? Det ville passe mere til en voksen hvis de skulle være 7 cm . Lidt surt når man har hæklet dem.

15.06.2015 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette. Hatten skal sidde lidt stramt for ikke at falde af, saa derfor er omkredsen altid mindre end hovedet selv - og garnet giver sig ogsaa. Men er den for lille til dig, saa kan du tilpasse saa det passer dig bedre.

16.06.2015 - 15:48

country flag Renate Grohmann wrote:

Der Hut ist wunderschön. Wie hält die Form. Mit was wird der Hut gestärkt? Dankeschön für Ihren Tipp.

15.08.2012 - 19:54

country flag Wil Jonker wrote:

Bij het minderen van een vaste, gaat het precies hetzelfde, maar dan meteen door drie lussen. Mooier resultaat !

03.06.2012 - 12:03

country flag Wil Jonker wrote:

Het valt mij op, dat jullie altijd met haken gaatjes maken met minderen. Ik heb geleerd om b.v. met een stokje een omslag om de haaknaald, dan in de steek steken en een lus ophalen en meteen in de volgende steek steken en een lus ophalen en dan omslaan en niet door twee, maar door drie halen en dan gewoon weer door twee. Zo heb je een mindering gemaakt zonder een lusje van de vorige toer over te slaan.

03.06.2012 - 12:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bedankt voor de tip. Het is natuurlijk altijd mogelijk om te haken of breien op de manier dat men zelf het prettigst of mooist vindt.

04.06.2012 - 13:40